Leaderboard

84% of any figures published by civil servant on behalf of the UK government should not be trusted and the other 17% is because they can not count. Know nothing really, even how many houses or accomodation should be paying council tax.

No wonder if those who are supposed to be 'auditing' are as bad as the rest in terms of false declarations and claims etc. I have no words for the hypocrisy in some of your posts!

I guess by 'many drivers' you mean yourself??? Most of us don't commit fraud and claim for the mileage of the route we actually take and the mileage we do, without adding in 'extras'...

That's a slightly ambiguous paper - is the 16% of the nation (of England) part of the 32% or not - it doesn't clearly say. So is there 32% that remain with no solution but 16% do have a potential solution via cross-footway charging, meaning 52% have access to a driveway or similar? Or is it 16% have no solutions, 16% can use cross-footway solutions and 68% have access to a driveway or similar? Very poor writing with regard to clarity of information... and totally ambiguous!

Taken from my kitchen window this morning - there are nicer things out there than Skoda Superbs!

Did a recent journey, mostly motorway driving with moderate traffic and got 64.2mpg. Petrol Engine 1.5 TSI Manual Estate 2 x Adult passengers + 28kg Dog and luggage Cruise control generally set to 70mph except two or three extended roadworks sections where limit was 50mph. Some traffic where mph was reduced. Cruise control is definitely the key for greater fuel efficiency on the motorway.

Gale force winds from the WNW may have some bearing on this??

To add to the big internet because I could not find a lot about it; I fixed my virtual cockpit with the help of parts from uncle Ali. I also found out that with an MIB3 there is no MOST cable, as it is running on Ethernet. The display started showing lines: After a few days it was dead. Reason I assume is that the car handler I bought the car from used water, which dripped down in the display. Bought the car with damage and without waranty. The design of the cockpit isn't the best, because all connections of the display are at the bottom of the screen. After it was dead the display also gave a red exclamation mark and a B200041 error. I took the risk of ordering only the display. The part number is LA103DV1(SL)(01). Multiple resellers can be found on Aliexpress. Removing the cockpit is quite easy. The same as an Passat. The cockpit can be removed and opened from the back by removing all the torx screws. Flip it over and take of the front. Now you can disconnect the flat cable and take out the display. Disconnecting the flat cable is done by opening the connector and taking the flat cable out. A fiddly job, multiple examples to be found on YouTube. Then it is the reverse order, connecting the flat cable, mounting the new screen, assemble the cockpit again and put it back. The result is: And the redexclamation mark went away.

Ooh some Whataboutery to deflect criticism... and some 'personal' digs too for good measure - nice! Yes I have done more than 70mph in both the Swift and the MX5 - and very easily actually as both are capable of over 120mph without issue thanks. By the looks of things the Fleet website data is based on new lease costs and possible higher insurance costs based on a specific location / age profile etc for comparison purposes? - Both of which will likely be leading to higher running costs... ??? As for you and your colleagues withdrawing your cars from the employer usage - that's fine and your prerogative to do so - unless you have a contractual requirement to use them due to the provision of a car allowance and fuel cards (which I understand you have previously had access to?). Either way falsely claiming additional mileage, or 'extras' is still fraud in the eyes of the law, whichever way you look at it.

UK is similar. 116ps 1.5TSi is available manual and dsg. Both have ACT, only the DSG gets e-Tech.

There are 2 versions of the 1.5TSI. There is a 148bhp and 115bhp. At least that’s what’s offered here in Ireland. The 115bhp version is new to the market.

Can you get it scanned for fault codes?

Government releases cross-pavement EV charging guidelines https://www.current-news.co.uk/government-releases-cross-pavement-ev-charging-guidelines/

There were some corking deals on ID.7 back end of last year. I could get one to suit my profile for about £450pcm (an ID.4 was about £500) and wouldn't care about the VED as its part of the lease.

It comes down to pollution of the air we breath. It has been shown time and time again that the lowish figures, and I dont call the 80 ugm/Km particularly low when petrol car and held to a higher standard ie 60 ugm./km but both actually fail massively in the real world rather than the lab these incorrect emission results were achieved. When the Catalytic convertor is not warm enough, and it may not get up to temperature for much of the journey undertaken in cool weather the pollution will be many times the published emission levels. Governments concluded around the world, even with Adblue etc , Diesel are not clean enough for urban areas. OK in the countryside or at sea until they simply become a cost ineffective choice and BEV or petrol variants are the choice, maybe hydrogen but that seems to be going down hill with diesel at the moment.

One of the handles should open the door as there are 2 cables attatched to the lock the most common issue is the lever that latches onto the bar inside the door opening is stuck or corroded, have you tried banging the lock part of the handle outside with the palm of hand and then trying to open the doopr ? if this doesn't work you have to wind the windows down and try spraying wd 40 straw type at the rear of the lock nearest the outside of the door panel and keep trying to pull outside and inside handles I also made a small round bar about 12 inches long with a slightly bent up piece around 1 inch fed it into the door turned it so the bent bit was facing inside the car and managed to pull up the lever that was stuck and got the door open, I then removed the panel and took the lock out after disconnecting the outer door and inner door handles and connections if you take a look on you tube there are a few helpful vids that might help you this was the case for me, after va good clean and re grease the lock never failed again

I've watched s few of these Carwow reviews on EV's, where they drive them until the battery goes flat. Apart from the putting 2 people in the boot to see how big it is the reviews are quite useful. The figures at the end of the review is quite interesting. The polestar achieved 90% of the claimed range while the other cars were around 78 - 81%. The cost of fuel (diesel) for the crew / filming car (skoda Kodiaq) for the total return trip was £92. The cost of charging the Polestar was also £92, but the first charge was on 'home' charging, if the car had been charged on fast chargers the cost would have been £140.

Very nice stuff in this topic, kudos to all, this is golden stuff! I agree with all the above specially the letargic DSG mapping ... I was led to believe it was the throttle, but after the 'linear response' coding, it got much much better. The DSG response time is the problem. TVS has a dealer in my country so I think sometime in the spring a remap might be in order .... engine might as well 😁

Read the guide below and watch the YouTube video which is extremely useful and shows you an update process in real time. Only perform this procedure if you are confident in doing so and it is at your own risk. Apparently, Skoda has stated this will be the last major software version update for the Skoda Octavia Mk4s, although I imagine the mid-Mk4 facelift models will get further updates. I applied the update to my Octavia Estate First Edition 2021 plate and all seems to have gone smoothly but it goes without saying manually update only if you are confident performing the procedure and it's at your own risk. FYI, I updated from version 1969. You will need an ExFat formatted USB-C type drive - oddly my Sandisk Micro SD Card with USB-C adapter wasn't detected by my Octavia so I switched to a 1TB USB-C Lacie hard drive I had lying around and that worked fine. You can tell if your drive is "compatible" and has mounted when you start the update process as, at one stage you will have to select either "USB1" or "USB2" - if a drive is mounted/detected one of these will be in bold. 1. Download the compressed package from one of the two links below: Octavia Infotainment Update Version 1985 - Google Drive https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZSh8xZ7iUQu9K1u4uwTGbHqtxFE7m0OFtV 2. Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet, for example, MU1985 3, Locate the downloaded compressed file package and then right-click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to the MU1985 folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished extracting the files you will have the following TWO folders (previously there has been a third file but not this time, just the two folders below): Data Meta 4, Copy the above two folders directly to the root of your ExFat formatted UB-C drive. These two folders need to be at the root / top level of the USB-C drive, not contained in any other folder and you don't want anything else on that drive THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES / FOLDERS THAN THIS. Once done you are ready to move to your car to start the update. 5, Insert your USB-C drive into one of the front USB ports and put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. At this point, you must have a full or very well-charged car battery so that the car doesn't shut down halfway through the process. The ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. 6. Hold the "Menu" button until the engineering menu appears. 7, Watch this video which essentially shows you in real-time the update process. It's in German but it's easy to follow and the video relates to software version 1941 but it's essentially the same process. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU Be warned, there are moments when the screen goes black, the system reboots and the CPU upgrade stage looks like it has frozen but it hasn't. Just be patient, let the system do its thing and you should get a successful update of your system. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you.

I get similar consumption figures from my 1.5. On a trip from Newcastle to Pembrokeshire I averaged over 60mpg until I left the M6. Then crossing Wales from NE to SW clobbered it. Though the total fuel used was less than if I'd gone down the M5 / M4 route. The trick is a light right foot coupled with reading the traffic well ahead, and I probably kept between 65 and 70mph on the motorway - I recall the engine frequently dropped into 2 cylinder mode.

Given the first is a 1.0 triple and the other is 30 years old I agree!

Lets hope. The temperature has been mad swinging. Small amounts of water will boil off when hot, yeh?

Absolutely! No complaints from me 😀👍🏻

Is this a guess the engine these are for picture quiz? Or know the engine from seeing the pipes?

The 1.5 115bhp is available in the Octavia here in Ireland. I have ordered one with manual gearbox and am waiting on delivery. It can be gotten in both manual and DSG. my understanding is that the ACT is only in the MHEV (e-TEC) engine which i think has DSG only. The 1.0TSI is no longer available in the Octavia here. it may be different in the UK.

The actual cross-pavement policy published by government, that was referenced by earlier article I posted: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/cross-pavement-solutions-for-charging-electric-vehicles/cross-pavement-solutions-for-charging-electric-vehicles?

This is the temperature flap control motor. The part that fell out is one of the pinions.

I saw the news, thought it's relevant to this thread. But only quoted that bit because I found it funny. I was tempted to quote "Lies, damn lies and statistics".

Totally agree. Ever since getting mine, some 50k miles ago, I’ve been amazed at the fuel economy. Frequently top 60mpg on long motorway runs at/near the legal limit, and it’s often at or near @spcdust figure. Constant speeds help massively, and the ACT cylinder shutoff which @Ootohererefers to must make a big difference - it seems implausible to be on a near level motorway, sat at 70mph, running on two cylinders with an indicated 100+mpg.

Well I never one big bang halfway down door and all is working again. Thank you @MikeTheThinker and @Murdockman

Hi, welcome. Diagnosing means checking rather than assuming. There will be many posts and threads on this topic in the various forums that you could look at and/or ask in - or there's a member that specialises in this - or there will be videos on YouTube (generally HatBoyHarvey does good videos on Mk1 Fabia). Breezy_Pete offers advice (and might even see your thread here) in the Fabia Mk1 forum and others and does repairs, see. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497084-window-motor-repair-service/ 'Skoda Fabia Mk1 (1999-2007)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/26-skoda-fabia-mk1-1999-2007/ HatBoyHarvey Mk1 vids. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLlGs3AwP43wSEE9A3GDQ00netiE1eHyli HTH.

Then you do not have Front Fog Lamps though & as it is they are the wrong reflectors.

That is amazing for a petrol engine, what is it like around town?

Have you put different size tyres on the car to cause the odometer to overread by 5%?. Speedometers are usually set to overread by 5%, but odometers are usually pretty accurate. If I put a route in the sat nav and it says 245 miles to the destination, it's probably within a mile or two on arrival. When your odometer shows 10,500 miles you've only actually travelled 10,000 miles. This would skew the figures for mpg or miles per kwh, would it not?

Starting price £51k. Maybe VW will do some great lease deals as they are with the Buzz. Either way with such a high RRP one is going to get wacked in an extra £2k Expensive/Luxury vehicle tax after the first year. I expect all cars with an RRP in the £40k to £44k to drop below £40k by the 1st of April. Cars above that have a real problem. Just re-taxed my Zoe to move the taxing month from September to January so no road tax for me for the Zoe until 2026, if I have not chopped it for a R5 or R4 by then.

I'll repeat the above question; Does the driver's side switch panel backlighting work when the vehicle lights are on?

First principles. Does the starter go "clunk" and not spin?

^^^ It is what it is. There are no captains of industry here are there or CEO,s of Multi Nationals, Leaders of countries that are going to be changing anything are there? ................. Not sure if he is just not happy that he is not more successful than he is, or better off than he is because he is not in the selling EV business. Just a car salesperson & now a vlogger with all the scores on the doors. Or maybe just too honest to sell vehicles that will not suit the buyers who is too stupid to know what they want and that they will lose money on. Even if they get them cheap can charge cheaply and are keeping them so depreciation does not affect them. *& Will not be buying another car from him because he will be retired car trader before they want another.*

The fuel light is correct as you need more fuel. The random display of dim icons which change when you switch on other correct icons such as the turn signals is exactly what I had until I dried out the car interior.

Re. above, for anyone wanting a spare or replacing: its actually a 24W bulb, and the plastic base of this bulb ( sort-of) fits both ways into the harness/holder, but only snaps properly into place when its oriented the right way round! And theres not much play within the short harness wire length down behind the lamp unit, or space, to do it.

I'm going to use motorway I think, heard good reviews from a few people so hopefully it's easy enough 🤞

Yes, I should have remembered : although I said above its a sealed unit, the indicator bulb is actually a changeable halogen bulb - but its a specific Philips 25w bulb with an odd base design, not a typical indicator bulb. Its a fiddly job to do though - how do I know? Well - - I like to carry a spare set of bulbs and when the car was new, difficult to find exactly what bulbs were used. So I took one out to find out. Problem then arose that the odd design on the bulb appeared to clip into the “bulb holder” ok but when pushing it back into the lens unit the bulb fell out of the holder into the light unit - I had it in 180 degrees out. took ages to fish it out from a big deep cavity with a bulb sized entrance hole - eventually with some sticky duct tape on the end of a thin cable tie to catch it. so yes in theory this front indicator bulb is replaceable- with a lot of care.

Especially as they think it has an AC clutch pulley which the majority of VAG vehicles have not had for over 2 decades and yours 100% does not, it has a shear plate pulley. The noise might not be the pulley bearing, it could be the shaft bearing on the pump but unlikely if the AC is still working, the pulley bearing is more exposed and has a much harder life.

Going to try and get a listen to several different speakers over the next few weeks at my local HiFi centre. Have been wondering recently, given the build and quality of my recent subwoofer purchase, how the Svs ultra evolution range would sound compared to the others on the list. A lot of solid reviews and awards from AVforum, home cinema and the like? It has made me curious enough to want to see how they sound for myself. Karma-av.co.uk seem to be the main agent according to SVS, and their website shows a consistent amount of awards and wins for just about every product SVS produce. Whether it’s the sound I’m after is another thing. But who knows. I do like surprises. 😂

A Skoda erWin subscription will give u the paint codes, plus all the PR Build codes, based on ur VIN number.

Ordered, thanks. If the trial is finished, I'll just pay for a month on the few occasions I'll use it

Should be easy enough for anyone with vcds or obdeleven. Pretty sure it's been done by some on here.

I think is very un-stylish choice. A brand that has instant recognition should never needed to be spelled, really. But as written before, in this "new world" it seems every needs to be spelled out because people are losing the idea of "imagining" something, they just wanted it all explained out, video'd, tiktoke'd, etc. .....

Welcome to wonderful world of electronic throttle pedals trying to second-guess your driving intent. Additionally, the Fabia's clutch and gas pedals are incredibly light which makes it harder for the brain to judge exactly where the pedals are and what commands they're sending to the vehicle. What I've found: There's an inactive spot at the top of the gas pedal travel. (The ECU sees all this movement, it just ignores it.) Beyond that zone the pedal response is very sensitive so fine foot control is required. Techniques for fine control include using the arch of the foot (which is more sensitive and moves less) or using the right of the ball of the foot with a twisting motion. The clutch goes from biting to slipping to fully enagaged roughly in the middle of the pedal's travel over a region that's smaller than you'd expect. This can be hard to judge from the lack of feedback underfoot. I suspect what's happening is as follows: You set the gas, and pull the clutch up to biting point. The car begins to accelerate and the front end lifts. You continue to lift the clutch pedal, and apply sufficient throttle to keep the engine revs level. The clutch pedal reaches a point where it's engaging more than you think, which slows down the engine a bit. Finally the clutch then engages fully, so the car's speed is suddenly locked to the engine's. The car stops accelerating and the front end dips down. The loss of acceleration is what you feel. So you can try, in combination depending upon requirements: Slow down what happens in steps 3-4 by identifying the bit of pedal travel just before full clutch engagement and slowing your left foot's movement. This gives two sides a bit more time to equalise their speeds. Apply a little more gas progressively throughout engagment, so that the car continues to accelerate throughout engagement, but with a softer edge as the car transitions to constant speed. See the note on fine pedal control above. If the car's going fast enough for it, just change to 2nd gear before fully engaging the clutch anyway. Obviously don't torture the clutch with excessive slipping or rev differences. Other considerations: As soon as the clutch starts to bite, if possible get both hands on the steering wheel and keep a good driving posture to help pedal control. Feel the car's acceleration response as it the clutch acts. Use different footwear. I'm not joking here -- anything that alters my foot sensitivity or the thickness underfoot throws out my smoothness until my brain recalibrates.