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I used to use Eco mode most of the time but in hilly regions the lack of engine braking means you need to use the brakes more, so I've switched to Drive mode to regain the engine braking - and not noticed any reduction in mpg.

It’s a FWD with Haldex rear drive on demand

I have found this to be the case, particularly with cars that regulate the speed more closely.

Easiest way would be to pull the switch out and follow the wiring loom.

My project, ongoing mission to make a perfect mile muncher!

CO screw adjusts idle air. It is not related to fuel. You have air leak. %90 percent sure. In my carb, I don't have to fully set the screw in to see the revs dropping. When the screw is fully in and the car is still running, this means it sucks air from elsewhere. If the carb gaskets are OK, check brake booster hose. Disconnect the hose and plug its insert on the carb too see if there is any change. (Don't forget to reinstall it before driving) Check all of the small hoses around the carburetor. (Second stage, TTV hoses) for cracks and leaks. Some people spray lighter gas around the carb gasket to see if that is rising the rev. I find it dangerous. You can use an incense. By keeping it close to the gasket mating areas you might see the leak. Your idle system's fuel routes might be clogged too. Please, remove the air box and run the engine with the carb's top open. Listen to the carb from close. You must hear a constant hissssss from intake of the carb. Like listening to a vacuum cleaner's hose's end. If you hear, hissss....gro...gro...glog.hissss.glo..glog...hisss... that means vacuum leak.

@EnterNameIt means in your case that really the subject is of little consequence to you personally, and it is really just messing about trying to get a rise out of people. Do you need me to explain what Getting a rise out of people means?

@EnterName Heavy lifting? It is just people turning way from the car and locking it with animals or a passenger and just not thinking. Maybe the windows down a bit, maybe not. Who gives a monkeys what you have ever done unless you have been locked in an EV as it was driven into a flood or went on fire, or was locked by a driver in error, or even as a joke. I have never been locked in a car but i did lock someone in once and went into the hotel and never heard the car alarm going off. They were very angry. Not as angry as the next time i did it on purpose.

Exactly what I've done. In eco coasting mode you are using fuel as it basically shifts into neutral but the engine is still running at idle speed. In D you get the benefit of engine braking and no fuel is being used.

That definitely sounds like a stretched chain or failing chain tensioner. A cheap code reader will tell you the code. Anything cam correlation related will be chain out of time. Get it sorted asap before it destroys itself.

Basically any amount of coasting vs no coasting at all will get you longer way without fuel. However, car needs enough momentum to recover engine operation without too much disturbance so it has to stop coasting at some point. In other words, without the coasting before going back to gear, the car would need to start using fuel at earlier point. Now you travel longer distance without using fuel, even tho you dont start to use fuel immediately on gear. But at some point the car has to be ready to use fuel again and thus get on gear. IMO cruise control reduces mpg. The car unnecessary keeps the speed up even on uphill. While you instead cud travel bit slower uphill and bit faster downhill.

There's more to ECO mode than you might realise. It changes the throttle response as well as the fuelling map. When driving, coasting preserves momentum as engine braking is eliminated. I find ECO mode less useful than I previously did, now I've learned to use cruise control more effectively. IMO cruise control is better for economical driving than ECO mode, though I do use ECO now and then.

Hi Great Yeti Your guide on glovebox removal is the gift that keeps on giving - it's 2025 and I've just used it on a 9 year old Yeti that I bought recently. I would never have got the release button removed without your instructions. After removing the shoot bolts, drilling the hole in the cog wheel out to 8mm, getting rid of the old grease, replacing it with a liberal spray of PTFE dry lube and then reassembling, my glovebox now latches shut immediately on closing. Many thanks!

I had one email headed Digital Deal File, and two emails from Skoda Financial Services. These emails have copies of purchase agreement, Financial arrangements etc. I would make sure that they have the correct email address, and then get them to send those emails ASAP, I don't think that you get given any paperwork now. It's all online now, apparently it's progress......

5 pages here, although the fifth page only covers 'extra equipment'

I feel you are are the impression that I have no experience of these driver aids and they are new to me. The only thing I am asking about is the stop start as my Karoq is a manual transmission and I have had no experience of the DSG. AS for everything else, I do not have a problem with them as I have most of them on my own car. The Fabia is my wife's car.

No, there is not any heating element like that. Something happened to me which might worth checking for you. The gas pedal started to get stuck, at the same time all of my carburetor fast idle and idle speed adjustments were gone. I discovered that, the gas pedal wire had lots of friction. I removed its end from the carb and lubricated it using a syringe filled with oil. I inserted the needle between wire and its sheath. After patiently oiling, I saw rusty oil coming from other end of the gas pedal cable inside the cabin. All of the problems disappeared after that. I've bought a new cable but forgotten to install it.

I also noticed a different "clutch feeling" in my foot when I changed to fabia. Some kind of tiny vibration. It's nothing wild...just different..I didn't feel anything in the old one when touching the clutch so I have wondered what might give that feeling. Supposed it was because of the three cylinders or the turbo.... but what do I know...

Update. All good now. After clutch bleeding it was just to fire it up and clutch working again. Well, actually I did the timing belt and waterpump first since car is already on ramp. Bit timing on these CR tsi engines are easy to do. Have bought myself a CR ea288 timing kit that actually worked. Some of these kits are made by the lowest bidder, but this one I got now was pretty decent. Its a keeper and it is made by Profitool. Probably cheap sucker, but it worked well. Did not opt for Sonic kit since it was 3x the price. Still, doing a clutch on a octavia Mk3 4x4 manual 6spd gearbox with the ea288 engine is much easier than on a octavia 4x4 mk2 with manual 6spd and ea 189 engine. Here are some tools that really made it easy doing this operation: 1. A 800mm long xzn m10 1/2" bitpipe (reach inner driveshaftbolts from outside the brake disc) 2. A 140mm long round hex 8 bitpipe (some of the 16mm bolts on the bellhouse have hex 8 as an option) this is a lifesaver.. 3. A 140mm long round xzn m10 bitpipe for difficult to reach xzn bolts (bracket for bevelbox/engine) 4. Astro Onyx 1/2" pneumatic gun. This is so small and poweful that it reaches all those hard to get bolts. It takes out all bolts except the axle nut. Axle nut required a bigger 1/2" pneumatic impact gun. 5. Pressure brakebleeder makes brake/clutch bleeding a one man job. 6. Pneumatic Pressure coolant filler device. After opening the coolant circle from vcds, use pressure device to refill and that eliminates use of vcds to bleed in sequences (low high). 7. Profitool ea288 timing toolkit. 8. Ironside Digital torque wrench 20-200nm. This saves a lot of time when it comes to set different torques. Have mechanical as well, but much faster with digital and you dont need to release tension when done. 9. And last but not least, my old 3/8" pneumatic air wrench. I love this since it is powerful, 75nm torque. Actually better than my Milwaukee cordless long reach head 3/8". Besides, airtools never loose juice and no need to charge them 😊 I know that many use cordless, but I am leaning towards the opposite. Cordless is nice oitside garage, but in garage, I use 90% airtools. They are lighter, smaller and packs just as much power. With angle couplers the hose is not an issue. Since I upgraded my old high torque air impact to a more powerful one, I have not used my Milwaukee M18 high torque (1989nm nutbusting). It is just to heavy and cumbersome compared to the new pneumatic one. And the pneumatic one do take out axlenuts and crankbolts with no issues. And the last thing, that I have a lot of, is headlights. I use this one; Fenix HM65R-T v2. Especially the daylight mode (more yellow) is superb for my eyes. And it lasts a good 3-4h as well. Replacable batteries.

After the engine start, could you check the thick hose going to the top of the radiator? After the engine start up, the thick coolant hose must stay cold until the thermostat opening. If the thermostat is stuck open, maybe the engine can not heat up properly. My hot air intake is completely disabled and sealed off. I don't even have the air routing plate on the exhaust manifold. Even below -10ºC carb doesn't ice with LPG. I've never experienced carb icing so far. But, that doesn't mean the carb should get ice without LPG. It's built in Czech Republic after all. If I were you, I'd reduce the fast idle from 1500rpm to 1000. Let the engine warm up without too much air velocity through the carb. I use fast idle to compensate the cold state hard turning of the engine.

Misfire was logged 5 times during three different cold starts. 1.Cylinder 2,3, and multiple misfire codes-8 to 9 counts 2. Cylinder 2- 2 counts 3. Cylinder 4- 6 counts

That is my last trip with 2.0 tsi 265p.s Dunno diesel how it will perform. My last diesel was Superb 2.0 tdi 190p.s 4x4. It was average 5.6 for the same trip and conditions.

I’ve just done it - seems to work fine. Download the whole folder, extract to the root of your usb stick and you’ll see the data and meta folders extracted. Ditch the other zips after that so there is just the Data and Meta folder and that’s all you need. Took a tiny bit longer to do than 306 to 308 or 308 to 330 but not much 👍🏼

Well, AIUI you're looking at the wrong figures. Carb icing is caused by high relative humidity inside the venturi (throttle body) leading to ice forming, making it narrower, and accelerating the formation of more ice there...

https://www.diycarserviceparts.co.uk/bosch-a871s-3397014871-wiper-blade-aerotwin-set-fits-tesla.html £24.57

Is that camber related damage?

It would help if you say if these are front or rear tyres, if rear tyres it looks like sawtooth wear?.

I have sent you the link I received to your pm:s from the kind person on here that I used. Be aware it takes over an hour and must leave ignition on and let it complete.

12v electrical systems work when submerged, at least initially so headlights (important for rescuers) and electric window motors all will work. HOWEVER! that was the case with traditional circuitry with switches and relays, now everything goes through the Body Control Module or whatever its called on the vehicle concerned, they seem to fry with a few drips of water or condensation so I doubt the electric windows or even the door locks (if in auto-lock mode) would work. Yes the door locks could "fail safe" ie unlock when power removed but to fulfill their primary purpose - security, door locks are always fail secure.

@Graham Butcher People are not going to generally are they. When the Chips are down, Chip Pan fires are common. EV Fires and Car Ferry fires are not. There is an issue. People do not RTFM. There is an issue, as well many people can not get in the front from the rear. Some can not even get out of their car from the front when they are driving into a flood.

I wish I had a closed private garage. I'm working exposed to the weather as you do. If you have a trusted mechanic and enough money to pay, I'm sure they'll spot any sign of wear and tear. For the most basic checks, like you've said, They are asking money. Naturally. Regularly checking the CV boots is a good practice. As soon as one spots cracks, it must be replaced.

Jeez - at least you get a cheap improvement to performance. Pretty sure genuine dealers should use what they're told by Skoda to maintain warranty but perhaps after that there's some licence to manoeuvre...

The mechanism can get stuck. Try pressing gently on the flap as you hit the unlock button. It will probably take a few attempts before it unlocks. Once you get it unlocked and open, squirt some WD40 into the mechanism and work it a bit.

6U9412303 115450330 are the part codes, here has 3-4 euros. It's nice that you have the knowledge and the space to work, for sure i can not do that kind of repairs lying down in the street so every time i visit a repair-shop and the car is lifted-up i ask from the mechanic to make an inspection to wheels-suspension-steering rack-ball joint etc and very often i make a visual check on the CV gaiters.

A UK-specification Fabia Mk 4 can have up to 5 USB ports, all of which accept cables with a USB-C end-connector. A: 2 USB ports in the centre console in front of the gear lever - intended for DATA TRANSFER AND CHARGING. B: 1 USB port in the rear-view mirror - intended for CHARGING ONLY. 😄 2 USB ports in the rear of the centre console facing the rear passenger seats - intended for CHARGING ONLY. Whether or not a USB-C cable will 'work' will depend on the cable's specification and what it is being used for. A cheap common-or-garden USB-C cable will (probably) allow a phone to be charged if plugged into any of the A, B,C ports, but may not allow data transfer even if plugged into the A ports. If a Garmin sat-nav is connected to any of the A, B or C ports using a standard USB cable, the device will not function properly. More USB-C cable advice here https://www.anker.com/blogs/cables/are-all-usb-c-cables-the-same-for-charging

Try to find the string with a plastic handle under the lever panel and you could put in drive. You only need a flat plastic tool to flip the selector panel up.

The thick red/white wires come from the fuse that's blowing to each front door module. The most likely place for that to be broken or damaged is in the rubber bellows between the car body and each front door, in the hinge area. Since the driver's door is usually opened and closed most, look at that one first. The rubber can usually be detached at the car body end and pulled back towards the door to allow inspection of the wires inside. Would someone with a similar age mk2 Octy please tell this person how to gain access, please? I don't have personal experience on this platform.

I suppose week 9 is a bit cloudy. If they produce 600 cars a day, that's up to 3000 cars a week if they work 5 days! In that case, a Monday car would stand more chance than a Friday car. Lets hope it's a Monday car

OK, a bit of thread resurrection but; We have the Kamiq and a Golf Mk8 (2021 model year). In both cases lane assist can be turned off with two button presses. For the Golf it's a secret not in the handbook. It is disabled in both cars most of the time. It does seem to have some utility on motorways where the lane markings are well defined, in other situations it is very easy for it to be confused IMHO.

Thanks. I will try that, but enough about me. What about the car?

What is the negine code for this 2.0 petrol? Know your car's engine code Engine code and why it's useful to know - Handy Topics & Guides - BRISKODA A stab in the dark guess - timing chain stretched, If your engine has one.

Hi, I'm pretty sure they're just indictor text for what the adjacent roller controls do. see:

Thanks, hopefully won't need it but nice to know where it is. I bought the extended warrantee so it's the dealers problem for the next 5 years.

https://www.klavkarr.com/location-plug-connector-obd/Skoda-kamiq-1

Yes, connected it up to the charger when I got home from the hospital on 1st, then disconnected it the next day when I went out. It may not have needed it after a full charge over 24 hours a week ago, but I figured it was best to be sure.

Follow the wiring loom or any other penetrations through the bulkhead and find one that has space in the grommet for an additional cable, you may even find blanking grommets which can be used, en bref use your eyes!

It is not going to perform like a 150ps 1.5 TSI ACT then. You have what you have as far as power and the engine management / mapping has to get the economy it can. A Scala is heavier than a Fabia with the same power so might just feel a little different. Sam's 1 0tsi and DQ200 though.

Well this is the Kamiq forum and that's what is being discussed. Pointless discussing what other cars do.

I agree with @ApertureS, the information you can download in 1 hour is substantial. I downloaded 79 files (see the folder structure attached), that included, service manuals, parts and vehicle specific information. Well worth the $A11 it cost me.