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Why on earth would it not be changed if it is a changeable part? You don’t leave the engine oil filter when you change the engine oil. Sounds more like the conversation about cleaning the Haldex gauze that dealers don’t do but all specialists do.

New genuine stat and temperature sensor ordered from a VW dealer, and a new stat pipe/housing bit from aftermarket/ebay seem to have finally put the cool running fiasco behind me a few weeks back. That was a ballache! In other good news, I took a punt on the cheapest of 3 MAFs GSF were suggesting for my reg (Hella branded), and it seems to have ended the driveability problems I was having. Smokeless and smooth now. Much more enjoyable drive.😎

No pics and you will get negative comments 😀

The ACC does not use just the rear brakes it uses all four as its just as if you are using the foot pedal, in fact if you just cover the pedal when the ACC cuts in you will feel the pedal go down !

I serviced the dq381 by myself,there are plenty tutorials on the yt. Removing the filter will drain another 600-700ml of oil...is making a big mess on the subframe. That was 52k km ago.At 60k I'll do it again.

Yes I was aware of that, we have plenty of fields of them near us. Obviously they can't be used for growing crops as well though. The visual impact and the fact that they are much less productive in winter is my main hangup with them though.

I would not be remapping it. Leave to die gracefully, maybe do many more km without issues.

Of course not! Lookers told me I need a Cambelt change at 5 years on the 280 and was called a “w&>ker” when I said it has a cam chain not a belt. Anyway, you’ve come to the right place to get the correct answer. But I don’t have a clue! LOL! 😂

The plan is 10% less ground given over to farming. By 2050. More nonsense and that will be England. It will be for more houses built where people do not want Solar Farms or pylons. Or turbines, battery farms or anything else spoiling the countryside. Talk about idiots and that is really the general public. Townies often. Like complained about Countryfile last Sunday. That is the other subject. Stopping eating meat to cut down Emissions from livestock. The livestock that will not need land. Not to live on or to feed them. But then townies do not need farms. There are shops. Supermarkets were fruit and veg should not be wrapped . It can come from factories clean. Like eggs and milk comes from factories.

Hi Folks. The fan blower has gone on my Superb Mk3 and looking for some help replacing, the local garage is quoting 500 notes and hoping I can do this myself. From what I can see, it looks like I need to drop out the glove box, unscrewing at the points below. Can I do this and free up space to access the fan blower without having to disconnect the cabling to the back of the media box and the airbag unit? I do not have the key for the radio to release and don't really want to have to go and reset any error codes by removing the airbag switch connector. Looks like the part number on the back of the unit is 5Q2.819.021.A Do I need to order the fan and resistor, or can I get away with just ordering a fan and putting the old resistor back on. Or would it be better to replace both at once? Any help would be appreciated or if there is any links posts of anyone doing this that might of missed would also be appreciated.

What nice anecdotes! Graham, Colin, it is a pleasure to read and let me mind wonder and wander about those things ... That Vanden Plas, looks magnificent! Years before I was born, my mom recalls my granpa had an Argentinian-built Siam DiTella, which I came to understand later on it was a licensed Riley, which looks very similar to the VP in the photo.... nice link on the facility. The Isetta was Italian stroke of genius ... great little car. Today fairly out of place. Incidentally, there is an electric car called Microlino which is very based on the Isetta. A friend that has an electric car showroom has a couple on display, and it feels really like a toy of a different age. Unfortunately, the quality is very very low. Already bits and pieces of the trim are broken and awaiting replacement, and today when I quipped "when do we go for a ride" he answered "when I get it to work, some software is failing" Oh well

I would go with the spring equal to either 1K0511115CT or 5Q0511115AN. I think this will give the best load capacity, and match the front. I don't have a straight dimension or sidepicture from my car, but here is one picture with the above mentioned setup together with 225/55R17 wheels which eliminated the speedo error and gave approx 11mm more ground clearance. Edit. Here is also a comparison picture of the oem rear shock vs. the bilstein I installed. In the oem shock there is a plastic part which basically limits the piston rod movement. It will not fit to the bilstein shock, in theory one could install ca. 25mm thick nylon washer etc. to imitate the functionality. I didn't put anything to the shock and never had any issues bottoming out etc during my 40,000km with the new parts.

Here are five rear springs that I would consider when looking for a spring that matches OEM part number 1K0511115CT. This includes the Bilstein 36-199570 that you linked to. As previously mentioned, 1K0511115CT and 5Q0511115AN are the same spring. The proof for this is Kilen 65073 and Lesjofors 4295087 which are sold to replace both 1K0511115CS and 5Q0511115AM...as shown in the link below. The benefit of choosing 1K0511115CT over 5Q0511115AN is availability and price. Kilen/Lesjofors suggests their 1K0511115CS/5Q0511115AM rear spring for the Octavia MK3 4x4 Scout...and 1K0511115CT or 5Q0511115AN is one up in the hierarchy which is about 5% stiffer. Some rear springs that match OEM part number 1K0511115CT Bilstein 36-199570 Eibach R10494 KYB RH6426 Lesjofors 4285730 Monroe SP4298 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1k0511115ct?supplier[]=253&supplier[]=85&supplier[]=37&supplier[]=112&supplier[]=16 Kilen 65073 rear spring is sold to replace both 1K0511115CS and 5Q0511115AM https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kilen/7837926 Lesjofors 4295087 rear spring is sold to replace both 1K0511115CS and 5Q0511115AM https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lesjofors/9735347 Kilen 65073 and Lesjofors 4295087 is the same spring, made in the same factory in Sweden...just sold under two different brand names.

What codes are stored - playing part replacement wont help other than making things worse? Check battery voltage as if on its way out can cause random problems,

Hi Not sure if you’ve sorted this but I wired my dash am into the rear wiper fuse. Seems to work fine.

...or try it in Eco mode for a while and see what that does.

It's not adjusted correctly, you should see whats behind! Possible causes: Wife driving the car before you attending to her hair and makeup. Wife sitting in the rear seat 😁 As someone who had owned 30 + cars after 2 years of driving I never thought I would be where I am now hoping to keep the Yeti for my remaining days which hopefully will be a couple of decades and some.

I will wait for developments ill get my coat

Sometimes 60mph in 5th, but generally stays in lower gears longer and often when accelerating drops to 4th before kicking back up to 6th - as if I'm a boy racer! On long hills it drops to 5th even if the speed is well into 6th gear territory. In urban driving often stays in 5th at 40 mph

Test drive tomorrow! Will try and take some photos if i can mind.

Suggest checking the rear hubs for excessive heating after a run.

Do Octavia's have torque vectoring by braking? This has been known to increase wear on rear pads.

This is the Skoda/Audi etc part number. It is used as an ECU relay and also another for the fuel pump and perhaps in other places too. Search this part number on-line and you will find it - and also many second-hand relays.

Yes thanks, all the reason why i posted the thread in the first place someone knows how to do this and i have money to pay if they can fix it Btw the steering wheel was most likely turned when i screen shot this diag

Hi, Many thanks for the reply, yes I have seen this video before,and it was best for information on testing a new unit with cold water, and stopping the flow through.And also the old unit not closing off. I can now confirm that my brand new unit is faulty. It's stuck permanently in the open position allowing cold and hot water to pass through freely. I'm so glad I decided to test the unit,before going through the hassle of fitting, and then finding out,there's no change as to the slow warm-up of the engine. And highly possible then doing the big job of main thermostat. Last night I stripped down the brand new unit. The brass thermostat has a small steel rod, and it was sticking out about 1/4inch. This was not allowing the spring to force the stat body against the abs outlet inner flange and seal off any water flow. I then forced the steel rod back into thermostat, just to the point where in sits,and also causes a seal. I put the unit back together,tested cold water and closed,hot water,it opens. I must have done the test at least 20-30 times,and it's now working as it should. However, I'm still concernd it might fail again.I've been in touch with the supplier, explained as above,they apologised and are posting a replacement. So happy days. Thanks

That is where the old steel wheels were far better, you could have them painted, fit plastic wheel trims or have chrome hubcaps and some even with chrome rings like these on my old Vanden Plas car which was a large and heavy car with a very soft ride.

Indeed, this issue had been addressed with Gen3, hence signs of oil consumption appear very late (or not at all) and are rather insignificant compared to that of Gen2. However, since the low tension piston rings became a standard, you will find this problem associated with all brands, especially combined with the (crazy) long oil drain intervals recommended by the manufacturer (and followed by most of the owners). Short OCIs, high quality oil, engine flush at least once a few oil changes will keep problems away. A piston soak should solve it.

Solar is advancing at a rapid pace as are batteries, EVs and wind turbine design, the pace is truly incredible it seems to me. Solar panels are expecting a breakthrough quite soon with the advent of perovskite solar panels which are closer to 50% efficient rather than the current sub 25% of silicon panels. One would need half the panels. Also the mounting of panels can change. Rather than just laying them static on the ground on can mount them on masts and use the land below. When mounted on masts they can capture 40% more sunlight in a day. The can adjust themselves to be more robust in high winds and go in to a passive position when solar not collectable. Panel can become bi-directional ie collect light from both sides and add another 10% more efficiency. So much less panels and land can be needed in the future but still provide all the solar we need. Like wing the plan seems to be to generate twice the solar energy that the UK needs on average so half can be put away for a rain, dark day, night.

The rough data of the car is: Škoda octavia MK4, year of manufacture 2021, Diesel 2.0, 150hp, dsg gearbox, year of manufacture 2021.

You could probably improve on your analogy tbh! No, people don't generally buy a car to cater for a 1 off occasion every few years (that may or may not happen) but grid peaks are more or less a daily occurrence and 'super peaks' in winter happen at the very least several times per year. Yes time of use pricing can help to alleviate demand but ultimately you are never going to be able to flatten it completely. Everyone wants to cook at around the same time every evening and we will always need the capability to be able to supply this.

@SomeOfTheGear - it is possible to retrofit an additional USB data port in the storage under the armrest, however it's no easy task. it was available as a factory fit option in some markets, even on pre-facelift Superb. I contemplated doing, did all the research and figured all the bits and bobs needed - but i didn't end up doing it cause too much effort. Instead I went down the much easier route and got an AAWireless device (been flawless, no issues, and no lag), as well as converting my rear 12v port to a USB QC port. this way I can connect wirelessly and charge my phone if I need to. if u do want the actual additional USB port, then u will need a USB Hub, USB socket, and wiring. Part numbers:- 5G0035953C - USB HUB to 2 ports 3G0035643 - holder of the HUB 5G0035222E - MIB2 Carplay USB/AUX Port Audio Input with Socket Harness 8E0973754 - Connector for USB HUB The HUB itself is powered by a separate power supply, which u'll need to source/tap from somewhere. u'll need to remove the glovebox headunit so u can access behind it. u'll need to remove the centre console, plus centre arm storage area to fit the USB hub and additional socket. This is how it looks when fitted from factory... The wiring....... this is my setup in my Superb MY17. the AAWireless is connected to the existing USB port. Fits nicely as i can still close that lid. the 12v socket at the rear is now a dual quick charge USB ports. i've connected one wire to it and routed it in and up into the centre storage area. again, the rear compartment can b closed as the USB cable and socket are small/flat enough. the second QC port is free so the kids can charge their phone or tablet, if needed.

Despite my doom and gloom, it's interesting to go onto the Skoda website. If you go onto used cars and then select new (sounds daft I know), there are 1126 new Elroqs, all available in 1 to 2 weeks and a few available for immedate delivery. Not sure what to think anymore.

That seems to fit in, I was first told that mine had left the factory in January, but even at that point dealer would not guarantee a pre April delivery, it could be like the Kia EV3 that did a showroom tour and presentation before orders could be placed

https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iv/octavia-iv-genuine-skoda-autoas-skoda-long-emblem-from-2020-rs-model

Here it is

Kodiaq is very picky for the USB cables, so try a different one.

Equally though, with the rising population, and the need to reduce shipping foodstuff around the globe, not to mention the pending trade wars that Trump is stoking the fires of, we also need that land to grow as much of our own food as we can, do we not? That is incompatible with solar generation in the fields. That can be done on the rooftops and does not rob us of the valuable growing capacity. There are loads of solar farms around my area, and there is no way of growing crops at the same time as generating power, the panels are just too close to each other that to happen.

Let's just remember the elephant in the room. The National Grid. The non UK owned National Grid. Profitable and never underpaid and always looking for more investments and money to spend while never not making huge profits for the owners. Not fit for purpose yet all there is until there can be Regional Grids, with companies that can get local generated electricity for the local first and foremost. Only when they have had what they want at their fair price should areas producing not enough be able to buy at a premium. As it is it is the reverse of that with the National Grid.

The glovebox ventilation is always cold. Could it be that the heater output for the right-hand drive glovebox isn't blanked off in your left-hand drive car?

BP should have had a totally different company to do Green. As should every Oil and Gas company. If the electricity generating can not be profitable then the system does not work, and can not work. Everyone is creaming off money and looking for nice earnings from the product. The product is Electricity. It should be Nationalised. It is an essential just like drinking water and sewage. It is a requirement of the whole country. 4 countries and every person . PS. The government and local councils delay every plan. Every development. But then the morons that block stuff are just local or not locals that use electricity.

This is obviously something we won't agree on but I don't particularly take any delight in having large areas of the country given over to solar farms. I don't suppose I'm alone in that either.

No not yet, other than many are arriving next month, however, as ive only just confirmed im probably a little futher down the line than some that are ready for shipment...my guess is after 1st April...for obvious reasons 🤔

Just pressed the button on a Sportline 85 Advanced in Race Blue, saw a SE at the dealership yesterday and first impressions are good even on the more basic model, shame there is no sunroof option , quality in the front is very good, the rear i will say is a bit less so with more hard plastics. The boot is very good with lots of different storage areas and even some shallow areas under the floor...overall coming from a Tesla Model 3 im very excited..at least it has more soul that the Tesla !

That's a shame but never mind ..on the plus side there is a 12v socket in boot for any rear cam if people decide not to go hard wired.

I did the camera install today, went with the Viofo A139 Pro 2 channel after all. Turns out the rear camera cable run was fairly easy after all. Up and running and works fine. Also fitted a screen protector to the infotainment screen, went on very easily with zero bubbles. It’s a matte finish so no reflections and amazingly resistant to finger marks so really pleased with that. Here are a few pics… Two more to follow.

My late Brother, bought two smaller (cheaper) crates an joined them together to get one the right size for his two Springer Spaniels. Bars were cut and joined with tubing to allow adjustment, sliding in to install and out and locked to maximise space. Have a look here https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=used+dog+cratesLarge&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313

Could we find a programmer to reprogram the application and make it free and remove the warning?

You just cannot undrstand. You have developed infrastructure of road network in UK. Dual carriegeways everywhere etc. We suffered 50 years of soviet occupation here. No one built the dual carriegeways here this time, missle silos were priority one. Overtaking on simple 2 lane road is becoming a challange. Throttle not behaving as it should be could be fatal.

The items you mention, (USB-C etc.) are Model Year 2021 specs, which were introduced for new orders registered from late 2020 (70 plates onward). However there would still be Model Year 2020 build cars that didn't get first registered until late 2020 on 70 plates. Your car will be one of those i.e. MY20 spec, so would not have the items you quote - the ones you have seen online have been MY21 cars.

Take it to a trusted independent and get them to inspect the cambelt and advise accordingly. The "If in doubt, change it." approach is costly, but does offer reassurance.