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Had new rear valance fitted from Maxton ...V2...love it

Haven't been active for over a year just wanted to pop by and say hi and show you my new addition my 280 💪🏼

Since last year i had replaced the following H&R Front & Rear ARBs Whiteline adjustable drop links front and rear Superpro front lower arms Bilstein B6 shocks front and rear It has transformed the car so much feels lot nicer then before. So much more responsive then with stock set up. Springs are still standard no plans to be lowering it...yet 🤓 I had tracking done after and everything aligned spot on. No uneven wear on tyres since then.

If you have ACC, the standard 'distance' between cars - is very German, i.e. quite close and a little intimitatory. I set my ACC to Far which seems to be a little less agressive.

We spotted our first Goslings earlier and then watched the sunset whilst listening to The Stranglers😎

My new toy 2024 Sportline.

I've got the electric seats on my Elroq. We also have a yeti. Love the yeti ... seat height very comfortable in front and back. I've had Nissan Leaf before - the batteries on that mean the floor pan is so high, its impossible to sit comfortably in the back. Tried a Volvo C30 & my daughter said the same problem. In the Elroq, I've not noticed an issue with seat height - I have the driver seat quite high - no issues with getting knees in - the seat moves back automatically - comfort access I think it's called. Rear seats - daughter very happy. Very good legroom and floorpan not noticably in the way. Whilst it's not replacing our Yeti, the Elroq will be the car we take on long journeys now. Very comfy.

Go down the past of least cost first - check the wheels.

I know what you mean tilt ,but lets face it if googles on your phone its collecting data regardless and listening to you ,i dont worry too much as collecting and listening to me they will soon nod off 😂

I don't have ACC on my cars but I have noticed on a couple of hire cars that the ACC ran a little closer than I liked. A 100km out of Adelaide the interstate highways go down from Motorway/Dual-carriageways to just an undivided single lane in each direction, bit like the British "A" roads before Motorways. It means if you are following a large truck, or B-double then you don't want to be too close because they could run over a kangaroo/emu/wombat and clear it with their high ground clearance, but which would cause a lot of damage to an Octavia when you run into it. Around 50k kangaroos are killed on Aussie roads a year. I like to allow 3 or 4 seconds distancing here but have to cut it to around 2 seconds or less in Britain, otherwise it's just an invitation for other vehicles to drop in the gap. Impressive economy for a 2.0tsi I filled up tonight and calculated our "since last refuel" average consumption display optimism has worsened by 0.5l/100. So the displayed 5.8L/100 was an actual of 6.3L/100 (45mpg). Which is still not bad considering it is primarily my wife's car. 97% urban environment and 70% peak traffic times.

My car is serviced every year it’s a 2020 reg and done 23k miles. I am only a local driver back to work, shopping etc. I always leave my car in 1st gear and work down the gears as I approach a stop. The stop start does work however I have now turned it off to see if that helps anything. When I took it to Skoda I believe they only did a plug in. The engine light is like the one you have out on your post and it’s amber as well as saying EPC in amber.

I had my DQ381 serviced at 6 years and 25400 miles. My gearbox was serviced by Transmission Technology (UK) Ltd. Ken, who runs TTUK, has over 50 years experience working on gearboxes and was a very interesting and knowledgeable gent to talk to. The cost of my DSG service was £177.36 DSG Oil: £63.00 Filter: £24.80 Labour: £60.00 VAT: £29.56 Having watched Ken perform the service, it appears very DIY-able, if you fancy tackling it, though I'll mention my local VAG specialist told me to go to Transmission Technology when I enquired about a DSG service there. Having watched the service being done, this seems slightly surprising, though it may be that there's more to the DSG service than meets my eye. The process was mostly as the videos show, and was as follows as I watched it: 1) Remove DSG filter housing and filter. (This was the most awkward part of the job as the filter housing was difficult to remove. Access was from under bonnet above engine.) The filter was clear of debris, as far as I could see. (See pic. The replacement filter was a plain white filter. ) 2) Clean filter housing interior. 3) Fit new filter & replace housing. 4) Raise car to allow access underneath. 5) Remove level plug from DSG level aperture. 6) Remove drain plug from DSG and let oil drain. As I watched it drain, the old oil was light-gold in colour and appeared very clean, whereas the replacement oil was slightly darker. (I questioned this and was assured it is normal.) 7) Replace drain plug. 8) Attach replacement oil pump kit. 9) Start engine, and with engine idling, pump new oil into gearbox. 10) When correct quantity of oil has been pumped in, remove pump kit and, allowing oil to drain from level aperture to correct level, replace level plug. Note: I suspect this is where you will need some expertise in judging precisely how much oil is in the gearbox, and it is quite possible that there is more to it than simply letting the oil drain until it no longer comes out of the level hole. For a simple oil change on a DQ381, Ken told me you don't need to worry about checking oil temperatures, that is only needed when the gearbox has been disassembled in some way, where oil may not have reached all the nooks and crannies in the system and greater care is needed to ensure that there is the correct amount of oil in the gearbox. Additionally, Ken told me that the recommended service interval on a DQ381 is 45K miles, not 80K. If you disagree with that, I suggest you argue it out with Ken, I'm just reporting what he told me. Incidentally, I asked Ken about my practice of always putting the gearbox into idle at junctions, as I could feel that the clutch is not completely disengaged when in drive with the brake pressed. He confirmed that the clutch is indeed NOT disengaged when the car is in Drive with the brake pressed. He added that it wasn't a problem to leave the car in Drive with the footbrake on for short periods, but for traffic jams, putting it in Neutral was recommended. He also said that putting the DSG into Neutral at every junction would extend the life of the clutch pack. (Which I had already worked out, but it's nice to have an expert confirm it.) Judging by his experience, Ken is pretty much peerless (certainly around my area) when it comes to transmission work, and is able to resolve just about any gearbox issue on any vehicle. He does full gearbox rebuilds, sorts out mechatronic issues and will take on gearbox repair jobs that other garages will insist can only be solved with a new gearbox. The phrase, "What he doesn't know about gearboxes isn't worth knowing.", springs to mind. He talked about how much time he spends keeping himself up to date on gearbox tech and he's a man who has clearly devoted his life to vehicle transmissions. Downsides? For the patient person, none. However, Ken has been working since the 60's, and sometimes he can be hard to get hold of. My first appointment with him didn't happen because he took the day off for personal reasons. (When I got there at the agreed time, the place was shut and there was no way to get hold of him.) I turned up on spec on another random weekday, just to meet the guy and size him up after the first failed appointment, and again the place was shut, despite it being during normal working hours. Still third time lucky, though I did make sure to phone him up before setting off. 😄 I laugh, but it wasn't a good start, and had Transmission Technology not been recommended by my trusted garage, I'd have been tempted to go elsewhere for my DSG service because I don't like unreliable people. I note the reviews of Transmission Technology are a mix of delighted customers (the majority) and people who failed to get hold of him (a very grumpy minority, which I nearly joined). Ken's an elderly gent who he has skills that can't easily be found elsewhere. I suspect he's got to that stage in life where he works as and when he wants to, rather than because he has to. If you have a gearbox problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find him, maybe you can hire Ken.

On a run, my TSI 2.0 190bhp (lowest power output of EA888 engine) gets 52-55mpg running on super unleaded and tyres in ECO inflation.

I think that's the purpose anyway, I'll have to try it at night! I got the glass from a seller on eBay, it's new and apparently OE quality. I'll report back...

This outfit does a limited range of OEM fitments for Skoda: https://www.hazzydayz.com But they are not cheap and they certainly don’t do all the upgrades you want. Probably cheaper to trade in your car for a newer model.

As Temperatures are rising in Germany, I am changing from Winter Wheels... ...to the 19" Summer Wheels - completely different Car...

Not sure if it helps or not, but the one thing I do find that's different is the height of the floor. It is obviously higher because of the battery, but it means that your feet and knees are a bit higher in relation to your bum. We've had 2 Yeti's and a Karoq, and dont really see any difference in the seat height. In the Elroq, I have my seat all the way down and the steering wheel all the way up, but still have a job to get my knee under the steeing wheel when I get in. That, I believe, is the height of the floor. Once I'm in, I find it extremely comfortable. We have the Suite interior, but test drove one with Lodge and I don't recall it being any different. We have Electric seats in the Elroq and we had electric in the Karoq and the Yetis. The Boss has driven all 3 cars and hasn't mentioned that she finds any significant difference.

For hydrogen, near the end of this video, he talks about engineering challenge of the tech. Basically it requires keeping the fuel cell cool for acceptable conversion efficiency on top of all the BEV stuff. But I found the whole video interesting how existing ICE manufacturers are (over) engineering EV's. It's behind the scenes video from an ex Audi engineer who developed their first EV, the Audi E-Tron. I have many things to say on battery longevity. But I'm just repeating myself, so I'll only say both my own real life experience and statistical data say batteries and motor will outlast the car.

At 65 year old in Scotland men get called for a Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm Screening / scan. I suspect that there are some Youtube bloggers that wear hoodies and rant about milk floats and evangelists that might not make it to 65 years old if the same is offered in England.

I sourced new front bearing assembles from AutoDoc - F A G 713 6104 70 and bought a cheap (China sourced probably) tool that is for 72mm bearings, that worked out fine, I just replaced both sides, I managed to avoid trashing the LHS ABS sensor but was not so lucky on the RHS. Paid too much at that time for a new Bosch sensor from ECP, better to source them from somewhere like PIM or similar, lesson learned so maybe avoid that error!

That web page is telling you that if your car has an auxiliary heater, it can be controlled via the app. That does not imply that auxiliary heaters are available in the UK.

I think he got his point across years ago. It is only some that need to keep banging their head against a brick wall. They must like the pain of that nut job rants / shouting.. But points/ clicks mean prizes in his pocket.

Do you think that Tony has actually managed to get his point driven home in this video? It seems to be a constant uphill battle for some people to accept that not everyone can charge at home or indeed have access to either very cheap Lecky or free Lecky at either their destination or workplace, and not everybody only drives to places within the comfortable ranges of their cars. For instance, I will often drive to visit airfields to attend an event on the airfield which do not have any onsite charging at all, so I would need to use a public charger at some point in order to get back home again. As mentioned in the video, I can fill up locally at very good rates and have fuel in the tank to do the same journey at least 2 and maybe even 3 times without needing to fill up again until I get back home again and can fill up again at the bargain prices. Playing devil's advocate here, perhaps on some trips, depending on where I need to be, it might be possible to limp home with any range in an electric car and make it with a few miles left in the battery. Now here is the kicker, I also sometimes need to do the same trip the following day, leaving well before sunrise in order to make the arrival time fit the event, there would not be sufficient time to fully charge the battery in order to do that trip next day. I stress this point because it has been said to me so many times that I should look at getting an EV and charging at home and plan my journeys and maybe look at stopping overnight at my destination and charging while sleeping, all of which is costing more than it costs to drive twice in a reasonable diesel car, which is precisely the reason for having a diesel car. I like so many others can only afford to tax, insure, purchase 1 car, while I know that some have 2 or more cars and often 1 of those will be an ICE car for those occasions when an EV is just too much of a hassle, but these are the very people who just appear to lack the ability to appreciate that they are actually living the dream, that many others just wish they could be in a similar position, so please let's have some real understanding of these points. Just looking at some of the comments that Tony gets to his videos just highlights the fact loads of EV owners/drivers just cannot see how the real world impacts others, who can struggle to run a single car.

I use the Microsoft Authenticator app on my iPhone; it is also iPad compatible. I assume there are Android versions for it too. Works well and has minimal impact on my device. As for privacy, any authenticator app will need to know a certain amount of stuff to be able to do their thing. It's what the company collects that is the worrying bit and I distrust Microsoft less than I do Google hence my choice of app. My rationale being the Microsoft primarily make their money from selling software, whereas with Google its primarily by selling information about us punters to advertisers.

Keep an eye on it. The oil stop leak does work but I find that its not a permanent fix. I assume that its the engine oil you added it to but might be gearbox leak at drive shaft and level is now low so not leaking so much. Might be worth checking level on Gbox Alasdair

Thanks Nigel Yes, maybe over reacting thinking I may have to ditch the truck! But I have heard of some older cars having to go for the most ridiculous of things and this girl is in such good condition, it will be a pity to lose her! Both keys are quite new, maybe a year or so following the tumblers in the barrel letting go - luckily at home - and I could not find a new lock with the traditional flat blade, so my local key bar removed the transponder chip from each old key and with the deft use of a soldering iron, inserted them into the new keys quite neatly. But I shall heed your advice and maybe alternate their use. Nothing hanging off the key ring other than a brass yale key for a front door. So maybe the start of something. Hopefully only the coil transmitter ring around the ignition lock so I shall hunt for a new one just in case. Started four more times today on the first kick... Edit: I tell a lie!! also on the key ring is a Verisure magnetic disc transponder... I wonder if, despite it never happening before, the immobiliser transmitter decided to latch onto this...?😀

Mines is due at the end of may so will wait until the renewal letter comes and plus i have several factors against me lol, firstly I unfortuanately live in Birmingham and the secondly is mines is a heavily modified stage 3 so not many insurers will give me a reasonable quote or even offer to insure it.

Ordered. Thanks mate much appreciated! 👌

Sure, that should be fine. That will read codes and allow you to do basic changes and checks.

It is the SEPA Offices Stirling that i charge my car at. Big offices full of very few people as far as i can see, maybe up to a dozen EV,s sitting about sometimes. They are maybe all out and about doing stuff, but funnily knowing what vehicles they have i spot very them very very seldom.

ETA: I forgot - what has changed in the last 2/3 months, any work done on the car, part(s) fitted, used differently, driven differently? What is the "service" and "maintenance" history of the car like, has all "service" and "maintenance" work been carried out to schedules - brake fluid changed, engine air filter changed, spark plugs changed, engine oil and filter changed each year, cabin filter, (air-con)?

A couple of points I'd make on Ken's advice. VAG make the boxes and VAG say 80k miles so the service schedule is 80k miles. Others may advise to change early, and I agree with them, but that doesn't change the schedule. Personally I'll do a 40k or 4 years having owned 12 DSG's. That's what I feel comfortable with and the same reason I don't do variable servicing. Wet Clutch boxes do have a slight drag in Drive, that's how they are designed, this is mainly hydraulic drag as the plates are lubricated, the plates are not grinding away on a flywheel. On the dry clutch box the plates are clear in D at idle. Other independents and some respected tuners and rebuilders have monitored fluid temp rise at idle in D and concluded even for a few minutes there's no significant rise. I've also seen it suggested that worn out clutches are extremely rare in the DQ381, they will reliably handle torque way above the gearboxes rating but mechatronic failure is far more common. Perhaps switching between D and N constantly is placing far more operations on the Mechatronic? I suppose it's down to which you feel more comfortable doing? Potentially saving a little wear on the clutch by adding wear on the mechatronic? And running the car as designed with stop/start enabled leaving the car in D with the engine off there's zero wear and zero temp increase. I suppose even more so if you have autohold.

Yeah there are no issues with steering. I put in a tin of a recommended stop oil leak product, as quite frankly I don't need the car back in the garage and it's a very minor leak, from a local reputable car supplies store, and after a long drive and five or six hours parked, I couldn't see any drips.

Just avoid all that nonesense and go and get yourself an ODBEleven dongle. It will be a lot less hassle and will give you a proper code readout as opposed to just generic codes.

There is a member on here that knows what is possible. @East_Yorkshire_Retrofits http://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk

I have to agree with @Rory here, the terms Withdraw and Settle are clearly defined in the CCA. When you Withdraw within the 14 day period you have to repay the amount of credit and any interest accrued and the vehicle becomes yours. As to Settling, it is not possible to generate a Settlement figure online in the first 14 days! I know I tried! but you can call VWFS and request withdrawing. I recently bought a new Karoq on PCP to get the £3000 finance deposit contribution with the intention of clearing the finance ASAP. Whilst I appreciate the anecdotal evidence that withdrawing doesnt lose any incentives TBH I wasnt willing to risk losing £3000! . In the end I got a settlement figure on day 15 and paid it off at the end of the 28 day notice period. Taking everything into account including interest earned on the money in my account for 28 days, I estimate it cost me around £130 more than withdrawing but there was no risk of losing the £3k!

Limited to 300 kph is it not ? Quick on tight small tracks but not the quickest on big open tracks ie the Nordschleife. SU7 did 6 min 47 sec. Simulation reckon Sperirling would take about 7 minutes but would like to see it tested. SU7 has 4 doors.

^^^ That will do it. Not intimidatory drafting I hope. It amazes me how little gap British drivers leave as standard anyway.

Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde? 😄

Actually true; if it were still running, @HeavyMetalRich best solution for getting stuff to Norway would be to put it on the Shetland Bus

I'm 3/4 of the way through the policy. Renewal is in July. But I've just swapped cars. My house insurance is with them as well. They have lost all my business come renewal.

TBH if it were me I'd be inclined to take my business elsewhere if they are being difficult unless the quote was a very good one and they can explain why they want the photos

Their own website says factory options are not classed as modifications. A quick Google shows Hastings are doing this often and a few people have open cases with the ombudsman?

Thanks. She sits slightly forward and high. I wouldn't say very far forward but she likes the upright seating in the Yeti (and Karoq) and just felt that the manual seat in the Elroq didn't quite go up enough for her. Interestingly in both our Yeti and the Karoq, we have (had) the drivers seat in almost the same position (front to back) but she raises the seat from where I have it. I was asking what in particular gave her the impression that the Elroq didn't go quite high enough. She couldn't put her finger on it but I wonder if it might be the view of the bonnet. The side profile of the Karoq and Elroq bonnets are ever so slightly different. While the Karoq bonnet slopes down gently from the base of the windscreen, the Elroq one is slightly flatter as it leaves the windscreen before curving down. Perhaps that's giving her a different perspective. More testing is required!

@NigelL What does the good lady need, seat far forward and high, or back and high, and is she driving? Sadly not showing yet in the RIDC. As to seat height, of the base fully up or down, it is the Floor to base height that matters is it not. Once in the car, driver or passenger. Then as i know, it is how near the driver needs to the steering wheel / pedals controls when jacked up. People maybe short of leg etc. There is nothing to beat getting in and sitting, being a passenger or a driver. There are also the seat fabric style. some seats you are more on top of than in. The ground to top of sill or the top of sill to the floor is an important measurement for many.

The kit arrived yesterday: So I set about it this morning, using the provided foam and felt pad. I taped the area so I didn't wander and kept my focus. It's a shame my photography skills aren't up to showing before during and after shots, but I simply couldn't get a photo of the scratches for love nor money. I spent several minutes of enthusiastic rubbing, cleaned it off and buffed. Then repeated this two more times. What seems to happen is that as the product starts to dry a bit, it whitens and shows up the scratches, and then as you buff it they start to disappear. I'm not convinced that I'm actually removing the scratches, but it's more likely the product has fillers in it that makes them not visible. Dunno. What I do know is it was bloody hard work and the bottom of my thumb aches. But I can't see the scratches, so I'll take that as a bit of a win. We'll see how long it lasts 🤞 I got an email the other day from the Carbon Collective who have just started selling their mini polisher again. At £240 it's a bit pricey (for me), but I think it'd probably be a good shout for doing localised areas of polishing, although I probably don't do it often enough to warrant spending the money. We'll see. Gaz

Has anyone been able to compare the seat height adjustment range of the standard (manual) vs electric seats in the Elroq? My wife and I test drove yesterday. We currently have a Yeti which we both love and both drove a Karoq and Elroq. I loved the Elroq but my wife said that she thought the manual seats didn’t quite go high enough for her but the Karoq was perfect. It’s almost like it needed one more ‘ratchet’ up. The dealer suggested the electric seats might go a bit higher but didn’t have any examples to test. It would be an expensive mistake to add as an option if it made no difference! I did wonder if the Suite seats might be different too but the dealer suggested not.

Did it to mine. See this post :- Worth doing for me as I keep cars a long time. Thanks. AG Falco

yep, I went ahead and got a local independent to change the DSG oil/filter at 42k miles. The guy said the oil didn't look too bad. I can't really say i noticed any difference driving it. For me it was just for peace of mind. I treat every car like i'll keep it forever even if I don't

UPDATE. Took the car to the Independent dealer this morning. Spoke to the owner, Colin Marshall, who said yep, he was sure it’d be a failing Wheel sensor causing all the issues and they’d call me later. I also asked them to centre the steering wheel as that’d been annoying me for 16 months. They brought round a nice VW Up (free) and I went on my way. At 16.45, they called to tell me it was all sorted and I could pop down to collect it. Arrived and we were seen within 2 minutes. Colin was just competing the bill. It was indeed the OSR Wheel Speed Sensor which had a mechanical fail and they’d replaced that. They also had a odd fault with the NSF sensor which was Magnet Field Too Low (anyone??) on the 26 July, but it was fine once it was cleared. He gave me the complete VCDS print out too. So the final bill was £253 which was less than I expected. So massive thanks and a shoutout to Wheelbase Garage in Hersham, Nr Walton-on-Thames, in Surrey (Link here) and there are masses of great reviews on Honest John Good Garage Guide (Link here). Colin was very pleasant and clearly very knowledgeable on VAG products and after this positive experience I will be using Wheelbase for our future servicing needs; annoyingly, this is how Skoda dealers used to be like 20 years ago - thank heavens there are still some dealers who actually still value their customers.