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So folks, I’ve done it! I’ve retrofitted the progressive MQB steering rack into the SuperB and it’s awesome! Original rack: 5Q0 909 144 R Progressive rack: 3Q0 909 144 L My 2017 206 came with dynamic steering 2.8 turns to lock and I’ve never loved it. Feels vague on centre and then is not particularly quick to lock. Never felt sporty, even after my coder helped me make the weight heavier using Audi coding/setting. The new rack was from a 2017 RS3 with the progressive ratio and 2.1 turns to lock. In reality it’s more like 2.0 once installed in the SuperB. Install: The mechanic installed it for me today because $@&# that for a joke and also I have no annual leave left. After the physical install by dropping the sub frame, the most painful part was having to drop the glovebox to access the fuse box because the wires lead through the firewall. Rod ends and boots were all re used from my previous rack. Coding: Mechanic ran out of day so I did the VCDS coding tonight in module 44. Old rack coding was 9307. New rack was 91170000. 9307 didn’t work but 93070000 did so I ran with it. After that I did the G85 steering angle calibration. Took a few goes as I wasn’t holding it still long enough. That cleared the 7 million error lights on the dash except for ACC. A restart cleared ACC error. The result: On center it feels much the same as I expected it to but once you get to turns of about 20-30 degrees it’s way sharper/quicker. Feels much sportier now carving corners. The weighting has reverted to the previous stock light weight, even in sport so I will have to go back to my coding wizard for a fresh update to firm it up a little. Overall very happy and I would recommend it. Cost for the rack was AUD $330 used from a wrecker. Mechanic labour will be maybe 3-4hr.

I've loved every single second with my lovely Octavia SE-L... but all good things come to an end, and so I wave it farewell. I'm going off-brand (boo, hiss) for my incoming car, but I'll leave this a/c dormant because never say never. I might very well be back in the future. So it's au revoir rather than goodbye. 👋

That's correct. If I learn a new key via ODIS in the workshop, all keys must always be present for active use. Only these will work.

After a quite some hours, a fair few quid and a few different attempts at getting rid of the previous owner's smoking habit, I dropped an Airvidox chlorine bomb in the car for the best part of 8 hours on Sunday...the results are good so far. I've already used a mix of Autoglym high foam shampoo, Auto Finesse Total interior cleaner, an Autoglym air con sanitiser, new pollen filter, Dr Leather wipes, and the smell kept on returning, especially on hot days, and especially from the steering wheel and passenger soft trim/pleather between the window and handle when the sun hits it...it's grim...I even unbolted the front seats and vacuumed quite a lot of debris from the hard-to-reach places...The irony is that the interior is pretty much immaculate, apart from the smell, and one small burn/melt on the USB port, which I'll replace at some point. So far, the interior smells fresh and the chlorine smell is gradually going (which I'm happy for it to stay as it doesn't smell of fags!), The steering wheel still has a faint whiff of smoke, but nowhere as bad as it was, so I may leave it a few weeks and do the treatment again. I spent the time pre-cleaning with Airvidox' own interior cleaner (a solution you mix into a bucket of water), and even after I thought I'd cleaned the interior to 'as new' previously, the water had gone from golden to a grim brown once I'd finished, so it obviously picked up even more grime the other cleaners hadn't. So far it's done a lot more than the other cleaners I've used, and cost a lot less...I don't think it's completely eradicated the problem yet, so if required, I'll give it another go a in a few weeks...for around £20, it's certainly been a lot cheaper than the other options I've tried, which in all fairness only clean what you can reach and touch, whereas the gas gets in everywhere, the same as cigarette smoke. Hope that helps any other owners of cars which have been smoked in! Cheers, Nick

Ah, I see. Working rear wiper >= + 100bhp.

I’m guessing Fichelin Bilot Sports.

Coming up to owning my 2023 Fabia SE COMFORT DSG for two years. Love the motor, as stated the DSG is a dream to drive along with the adequate 110 engine, often get 56 mpg on a long run. Never had a problem with misting up as use the air con summer & winter. Having previously owned Octavia’s found the Fabia a perfect size for the two of us now the kids have flown. Get into car, switch off stop start, lane control (don’t like either) takes seconds. Only gripe rattle from the passenger A pillar, others have mentioned in other reviews, can be sorted with a little imagination.

Good work; nice to see stuff like this bear decent fruit!

Once upon a time known as 'common courtesy'. Very sadly missed ...

I don't think Redex will do any harm but running the car on the E5 fuel as opposed to the E10 will probably be the greater long term benefit. This will be particularly true if you do a very low annual milage. E10 fuel absorbs water and water is not good news in the fuel system of an engine. Side Note It's why you should not run lawn movers and other garden petrol power tools on E10

I think a set of the plugs required will cost quite a bit more than £20, I think I've seen prices quoted of around that - EACH!

Hello, I have a Skoda Scala Monte Carlo since 2020 and my wife has a Karoq since 2019. I'm happy to have found this site to share information.

I read somewhere that VW group are no longer doing any development or improvements on diesel engines. I suspect the key dates are euro7 (29 Nov 26 for new models), with existing models able to continue a year until November 2027. And Euro7 has to be good for 10 years or 200,000km (124,000 miles), so an emissions system that partly clogs up a few years into a vehicles life isn't going to be good enough. Accordingly I would not be surprised if the remaining diesel engines are dropped spring 2027 so none are left in stock by November 2027 Regarding extending life of the Fabia, Scala, Kamiq to 2030, has also been announced for Arona and Ibiza, and I understand Polo and T-Cross. I would guess there will be usual minor facelift (different wheels, a few minor tweaks etc) but basically a continuation of current models. My guess is all these will get a slimmed down range as the Epiq, Raval and VW ID2 models build up production in 2026. VW group doesn't want to be competing directly with itself, it is having to compete with likes of Kia for innovation, and more budget brands like Dacia and Fiat for cheap runarounds. Even a bottom of range Fabia is not a simple budget second car like the original Ford Fiesta popular. I think they have given up on the cheap second car for running popping into town market (do you really need connectivity, and lots of gadgets to find your regular corner shop / local supermarket, or do a regular school run). They have priced themselves out of the basic car market.

To CFB and DaddyDave. This caught me out when I first had the car. You can control from the front screen and the padlock symbol isolates the rear controls, presumably to stop the rear seat kids fiddling. Touch the padlock and you will have full and independent control front and rear. Enjoy.

A couple of good reviews up of UK cars in Wales last week. I have this exact spec on order, pretty much as I expected. Not massively sporty with a bit of extra oomph of the Sportline 85, Extra kit and 4WD. You don't buy this sort of car if you are looking for a sports car. Like my Model Y LR AWD , It's a good all round car with some decent speed if you want it . Mine is apparently being built in mid Aug for delivery mid/end of Sep

Other thing that matters, outside of brand, is if the tyre has a manufacturer approval thingy. I know BMW/Porsche/Audi stamped stuff are insanely expensive compared to the identical (technically) tyre not stamped.

Not usually productive, because the nozzle tends to have a 90 degree bend near the outlet, and you'd also be pushing any debris back in, not out.

Can be just the nozzle blocked, and they generally pull out fairly easily to test flow without.

Tyre price, really, is determined by the width of the tyre, followed by how popular/common it is. It's double the sidewall profile, which means it costs less to manufacture. The most expensive tyres are the lowest profile sizes, actually. Width does also play a part too - it's very difficult to manufacture a wide, low profile tyre, compared to a narrow, high profile one.

This takes me back to over 50 years ago after my father retired at 65 in 1973. He'd had company cars for many years that were supplied to him from new, so they were never smoked in. After he retired, they asked him if he'd come back and work for a couple more years as they couldn't fill his place, which he agreed to, and they gave him a Ford Cortina MkIII that a female rep had used, but she was a heavy smoker and the windscreen was cover with scratches inside where she'd wiped the glass with her hands and not bothered about the damage her jewellery was doing. My father had an injury from WWII, so he wasn't able to do too much physical work, so I said I'd give it a good clean. I couldn't do much with the screen, but I cleaned the inside as thoroughly as possible, the metal ashtray being coated in grimy brown that I took out and soaked to get it clean. There was even ash inside the instrument cluster which I couldn't get to, but I've no idea how it got in there in the first place. Like your Superb, the Cortina wasn't completely clear of cigarette smells, but it was 95% better than it was. I even bought him a Feu Orange to hang from the dashboard to eliminate the last 5 % of the smell!

Yeah, but there's a large price gulf between 215/65R16 and 275/30R20!

Yes, it could be. Camera needs +12V permanent, GND and +12V when reverse engaged.

Done one my 2021 from 1898 to 1985 without problem. Thank you !

Thank you so much for this!! This site is amazing! I ended up getting a used one from Ebay for £52 - With a decent tyre on it! I've cleaned it up and it looks in keeping with the other three and I now have a spare wheel whereas previously it was the 'goo'

And that tool only works if the coil pack rubber/plastic material hasn't attached itself limpet like to the plugs which is what happened with ours.

ah, yes. Despite putting my car details into google and searching for spark plugs, the ones that were found were NOT for my engine!. I then went and looked at a YT video of how to change the plugs (which I should have done before posting....) and quickly learned it's not a simple job.

Those who definitely can't the the grant are already dropping their prices: AutocarThese are all the electric cars being discounted to beat...The new ECG was announced last month and will yield a discount on qualifying EVs of either £1500 or £3750 Ora Cat for £21k looks like a good deal. The red and round lights probably will have good wife approval factor.

Common in Glasgow he said. I assume they hope that because the buyer might have come some distance they will take the car anyway rather than have wasted the journey. Never underestimate how stupid and greedy people can be. Most live in their own little worlds these days and probably genuinely think they did nothing wrong by taking photos of another car. The chap that took my Dad's car didn't even take it for a test drive. He was friendly towards me anyway because I'd offered to pick him up from the local station which he appreciated. Said he knocked £300 off a car the week before just because the guy left him hanging 10 miles away with no taxis and laughed at him for being stuck.

What you are seeing is normal when the battery is not holding its charge. The revs rise to 1000 at idle to put back some of the energy lost in starting because the battery voltage has dropped. The fact that your battery reaches normal voltage in less than a minute indicates the battery characteristics are moving to that of a failed battery. My guess is that only one cell in the battery has failed. On the question of leakage current, there are some parts that are actively listening for about 10 minutes unless the doors have been locked. For example, you can still operate the windows even if you have turned off the ignition.

Had this the other day on ours - same cost. It only came up as the 1st service was done at 16mths as a longlife service, then we bought it and had two annual services done free on the Approved Used servicing plan. So at the 2nd one, the car was 3yrs 4mths old, so the plug change come up as the car will pass 4yrs before its next service. It's done 12K miles. I refused it and, to be fair, the dealer didn't kick off about it. But the most annoying thing is how an earth can a service plan not include spark plugs if they're required? Mind you, it's always annoyed me with VW Group cars that they don't include the brake fuild change in service plans, which the dealer will tell you in their best serious voice is "mandatory".

Thank you for welcoming me to this forum. I bought a used 2019 Fabia 1.0 TSI 95 hp. So far, I'm very happy with the car. I hope to contribute my knowledge to the forum. Greetings from Spain!

Thanks for the prompts. I had a look at the myskoda app which states that connect and infotainment are active to Jan 2028. They both also say "try free for 3 months" but I trust that the active until date is the key one. I wonder what the cost to get map updates and traffic will be when they do expire. Also re the dash cam interference with DAB radio observation. I too have had a roadangel dash cam fitted. Works very well and there is no impact on DAB reception at all.

So, "PDI's no longer show on the Digital Certificate". Look what just popped up on mine: So as suspected, Skoda's position was BS...

Borg Warner, the manufacturer of the Haldex clutch, specifies shorter intervals than VW. For information only.

Yey , thanks all I got it to work ... 😄

Should be massive positive contrast, especially the facelift engine. The facelifted infotainment is great and doesn’t seem to have any common issues I’m aware of.

In fact, it downloads the files to be put on a USB stick. Everything is clearly explained in the thread I posted. As mentioned above, try using a 18xx version before flashing the infotainment system to 1941.

I don't think they're available. They are mentioned on the online operator manual, but I've never seen them in any UK spec information. Apparently, in markets where they are available, the control is on the Infotainment screen, next to the heated seat control. It shows a picture of a seat with a blue fan symbol which has 3 speeds (much like the heated seat with its 3 heat levels). It seems that MY26 build cars will begin manufacture in September, so whether it will be available then, who knows? We have suite interior in our Elroq, and the seats cushions are perforated leather, so you'd think ventilated would be a fairly simple option.

Perhaps an update via USB could improve things. The thread explaining how to do this is pinned at the top of the ‘Octavia’ topics. I did this two months ago; my Octavia was running 1810. I upgraded to 1941 and then 1985. This resolved many issues, particularly the infotainment system, which was very slow.

Can you explain what happened during the glow plug change that resulted in having to replace the engine?

Very common for Off-Road modifications here in Greece, examples: https://www.amortiserladas.gr/product/elatiria/ypsomatos-prosthikes/kit-prosthikes-anypsosis-empros-piso-50mm-apostates-amortiser-gia-suzuki-jimny-1998-2018/ From UK https://www.4x4predator.co.uk/suspension-lift-kits/nissan-navara-32mm-front-rear-lift-kit/ Also Custom can be made from Teflon-Acetal-PVC-Polyamide.

The huge hike in VED for a >£40k car is ridiculous IMHO. Even a Honda Civic with a few options ticked will exceed this threshold and that is NOT a "luxury" car by any standards in my book. I still think that the fairest way is to keep VED the same for all and just add a few pennies to the price of fuel. Then it's pay-as-you-drive and thirstier cars and high-milers then pay more, isn't that better?

I saw this on the "not for publication" spec sheet when I placed my pre-release order here in Australia. Having seen the video you linked prior to ordering, I was very happy with this esp as so many chargers are 150kw so wouldn't have taken advantage of the 175 anyway. Plus, as the video states, it is better for the battery longevity and provides a shorter charging time for charges that aren't 10-80% (eg a 30-60% top up).

Posting this in the hopes it helps somebody else as I could find very little across the whole internet about this one. My 2016 Octavia Scout 2.0 tdi DSG 184, CUNA variant, suddenly started just randomly cutting out whilst driving, just for a second then would carry on. Honestly would feel like you had hit something as it went with a bit a bang every time. Sometimes it would completely stall and need to be restarted. Bearing in mind I'm not a mechanic, first thought is that it was a DSG issue jumping gears. Probably overdue a transmission fluid change so had that done. no change, drives smoother though. Next, when chatting with a mechanic friend, he suggested timing belt may be stretched and slightly out. Now thia was overdue by quite a way, so had that done. No change but less stress as I knew it needed doing. Now there were no codes at all showing on either obd or vcds from the start of this saga. Even drove it to replicate the symptom with vcds recording a log. After more searching, I came across one solitary post that suggested cam and crank sensors. With the kind help one member on here on another thread about warm start issues, who posted a picture of the cam sensor location, I changed the cam sensor myself as this was the easiest and cheapest option to start with. No change. Next was the crank sensor with the help of Haynes. Not fortunately this isn't buried within the gearbox housing as my mechanic suggested it might be. It is at the front bottom of the engine, just behind the oil filter housing. Bit of a faff to change, lying in the road but managed it. I'm now about 700miles in, with no repeat of the cutting out issues, faith and trust in the car are restored and all is good. Hopefully, this may help somebody else experiencing the same issues as t'interweb is sparse for info on this one :-)

I really wouldn't worry. Yes, LED headlights are expensive to replace, but your car is a 2024. Many other things will blow up before the headlights (or tail lights) decide to go.

Likewise, many thanks.

You can also tag a user to get their attention by typing an @ character immediately followed by their username. They might then send you a message.

Reply to this, and a few other comments, until you have 20 posts.

Update: I had my Timing Belt Kit replaced with INA SCHAEFFLER (£69.29) last night. Mechanic says that it was a good decision to replace as the old belt wasn't in t great shape. I have uploaded some pictures of new kit and old kit in case someone is curious to see. N.B: Mechanic will replace my drive belt/serpentine belt for free. I have already ordered drive belt in my local Skoda delaer..price is around £31. Car details of chanhing driving belt First Registration: 24 October 2017 Mileage: 131863 miles

After so many years I came across the same problem with my daughter's YETI. So I decided to fix it as I realized that all these advices about using lubricants simply did not work. Finally I found that the problem is a small gear which rotates around a plastic stud . The gear is too tight around the stud thus preventing the sliders to move freely. Hence the locking in place of the door is not complete and falls back after hitting a bump on the street. I thing the video I tried to make is self explanatory: https://youtu.be/6SLHBXsyNhU