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Updated the mib2 firmware to 2.5 and fitted the bigger screen also changed the trim piece as with the mib2.5 you need the wider one

It looks like the actual map data is provided by HERE. Skoda appear to have an mechanism to correct map errors via the Map Creator - see the following page from the Skoda website. https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

I had a similar issue and went and changed the bearings on the rear only for the noise to persist. Turned out the bushes on the top suspension arms had worn causing the rear wheel geometry to be out and the track out caused tyre wear like an egg. New tyres sorted the noise and two new arms prevented a recurrence of it. Bearings tends to be something you can tell if you jack up and spin wheel up and hold the spring. You can feel the grating noise rather than hear it Even giving the wheel a jiggle doesn’t always show it like it used to. The wheel can feel firm and play free but the bearings can be totally goosed.

CTek are popular but in my experience over-priced and over-valued (like old cars called "classics" over here) the vast, vast majority of car owners on here will be fine with a (about) £15 Lidl/Aldi charger maintainer it has 7-stage charging available so will recover a battery at very low state of charge well below what the vast majority here will encounter. Those that prefer to pay about £75 for the CTek MX 5.0 are fine to do so, each to their own. Just an old example of a (about £15) Lidl/Aldi type charger maintainer. - IAN 383685_2110.pdf I don't think Emike will be too confused by the AGM reference (and VW being VW calling it "fleece") as it was explained and Emike has put he's read up about batteries, there are lots and lots of posts on Briskoda about battery changing and charging, quite a few from me. For decades I've run old cars, originally because that's all I could afford and later because I could afford the over-priced over-valued old cars called "classics" and I preferred them to most new or more modern cars, though I've had a few of those too. Until 3 years ago my one and only everyday car was a 1973 MG Midget which I ran for the previous 16 year and before that various "classic" cars as everyday cars for work, commuting (300 and 500 miles a week for a period), club use, holidays in the UK and Europe, so I know the importance of a good battery in a good state of charge and health. Which has only got a greater need with these infotainment wheeled machines that many now use as also transport. I have enough build quality issues with my wife's 2015 VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3 without the need for battery issues, the wiring and electronics issues are already too much. My attitude has always been get the car started, get yourself home and worry about what needs doing after a rest at home, the car is just a lump of metal or metal and wunderbar fantastic plastic with 21st-century German marques.

5.7L to b exact.....not 7L!! Overfilling with oil is bad for the engine.

Hi all, Had it all sorted this evening, it was put on the computer and programmed that it had a new part and everything crossed we been out for about and hour in the car and it's all fine. 😄

As promised

Do you want me to lend you a duster?

Horses for courses, and what suits some will not suit others. I would like to spend the hundreds of thousands he does on Porsches, then mods them. How much per mile they cost him during his ownership must be a huge figure. Actually the BMW,s have such a price difference, and he shows these. It is not such a difference between the 3 types of power train from other manufacturers. Carwow has their article to read on the Cons of the PHEV,s and how you pay a premium to get them. Actually you have to look at each case, and buying new or used can be very different. RELEVANT can be what you pay if buying a used version, what depreciation was on a PHEV compared to the ICE. & That is OK, about driving in pure electric because many do just that. You might get a Used PHEV that has never been plugged in, or one that was getting charged daily. That is a lottery.

Thank you, mac11irl from Ireland for the welcome, its' been a long time since I visited. The internet is a great tool for bringing knowledge to all and introducing people throughout all Nations. All the very best Connell

Driving profile Sport active? Sport View speedometer active?

glad i could help

I'd probably just go for the appropriate one of these for the USB type (A and/or C) and W output you need https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=usb-c+car+charger&crid=36KM1NGXFIOWA&sprefix=usb-C+car+chargers%2Caps%2C181&ref=nb_sb_ss_mvt-t11-ranker_1_18

The reason I ask is from recent frustrating experience of a wideband sensor fault on our Roomster. Eventually, I found this, which solved it once I had replaced the worst affected bit of wiring and connector on the car loom side. See https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/assets/Uploads/Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf

Not all engines have factory mapping that allows them to take advantage of higher octane fuel.

The wife was recently given a Karoq for the day when her Octavia was in for a service, a new SE Edition DSG model, she liked everything about it except the seats which were very basic and flat and she found it extremely uncomfortable. Before I had my Superb I had a Tiguan SEL (ok, different to the T-Roc) and again she found the SUV driving position/seats pretty uncomfortable - it was more of a sit up dining chair driving position than a comfortable arm chair type sitting position as in the Octavia & Superb, sometimes the SUV seats don't go low enough for our preferred sitting/driving position. You really need to sit in them and see for yourselves how you & your partner feel, one may be suitable and the other one not so much, if they are both suitable select the one with the equipment you feel is the better option for your requirements.

DPF delete - Illegal, morally wrong. Buy a petrol or buy an ev or buy a diesel with dpf and adblue.

Checked our Karoq, ou 225/40 R19. Original Bridgestones are 93Y, Thet don't say Extra Load on them. Checking on the site of the tyre company I use, Bridgestones are 93 but none are marked Extra Load (there does appear to be a tyre marked T005 SKO KAROQ 93Y, but I have no idea what that means. However, all of the Michelins in 225/40 R19 are marked Extra Load, all Y rated.

Might be a dry joint on the cluster circuitboard, where the input from the sender potentiometer comes in. Not sure if open circuit would give a full or empty reading, but probably one or the other. Pin 15 springs to mind, but memory isn't to be relied on.

We have XL's (purely down to the required all season) on our Suzuki SUV, and have had on other 'lighter' vehicles. What I would say, compared to the standard rating ones I've had on company cars, they seem far more puncture (blowout) resistant on now crumbling roads. Perhaps it's pure coincidence, but I've lost a number of tyres as a mobile worker, who has to cover some pretty challenging eroded country roads in a company car, compared to driving the same/similar roads (usually over high terrain) in my private vehicles. Same speed, same driving style.

@Rory jerkiness was the best I could do in terms of a single word description. What it would do, and I couldn’t identify any common situations or predict when it happen, sometimes it wouldn’t move forwards on the level after releasing the foot brake, pressing throttle it would engage clutches and start to move, but then it would could disengage clutch's revs would rise, foot off throttle and try again, sometimes it would move off smoothly other time clutches would engage with a jump forward. Made driving into the garage and getting up to the back wall tricky. I screwed large blocks of wood to the garage floor to act as wheel stops. After STA reset things it moved away from rest smoothly everytime creeping on tickover which was impossible before.

Karoq. Looks better outside and has a better interior. The T-Roc just feels and looks a bit cheap.

Reckon hes done about 100 but going to get him to fill up today to brim and monitor it. Mileage left on dash doesnt change either. Hopefully its just the sender stuck and a full tank and a good bump in road will release it. Alasdair

I love posters in this thread mentioning sad old farts they know. I have the feeling this forum is heavily populated with sad old farts. Me included!

I do like the low rear entry (dogging) not many BEV,s like that i know of available new. Berlingo / Rifter / Combo life. They come in 2 lengths. (or non BEV) Ford Tourneo. Detachable Tow Bar fitted is £695. Tows 750 kG or for a bike rack / cargo box rack.

If some of you have a bad tensioner and you are not willing to pay 80 euros for a new complete one from INA there is a 15-20 euro solution. In most cases, only the roller fails due to age and there's no reason to buy a new complete one with the metal rod. You can buy INA 531 0760 10 roller/tensioner pulley and just replace the worn part, it's identical to the original roller. I wasn't able to unscrew the original screw (I believe that it was Torx T30, standard right thread), so I took an angle grinder and made a cut that's flush with the screw head (don't worry, you won't damage the metal sleeve insert, but be careful the paint on it cannot withstand pliers, you'll end up with chipped paint as I did). Once the screw head is cut you can unscrew the rest of it with your fingers since there's no tension. For a replacement screw I used M8x40 10.9 grade with stainless steel washer (don't remember the diameter, find one that covers the inner race fully). Additionally I added a lock nut on the other side to make it extra secure (if you don't want to add a lock nut you can use M8x35). Cheers!

When Nokia phones disintegrated the map and navigation business was bought by a consortium of car companies including VW. The public offering was relaunched as the free Here maps. Have a look on Here maps to see how your footpath is shown and submit a change request as necessary. This is described above. Personally I use Here maps on my android phone and find the maps very similar to the Skoda maps.

Just got it diagnosed today, threw up a few abs speed sensor faults, one possibly caused by wheel bearing C101D29 c101D07 all to do with right rear sensor And C101AF1, to do with left front abs sensor, magnetic field too low

Well, taking 3 cars, all based on the same chassis and model version, Car Wow have done some real world tests and the actual results are going to open your eyes a bit and also sort of reinforces why I think it pays to have and keep an open mind, especially if you a private motorist and thus unable gain any benefit in the form of grants and or taxation.

Made it to Beachy Head just in time for a smashing sunset: Got home to see the moon emerging from a distant cloud base: Gaz

20mph is a crap speed it's high for 2nd and low for 3rd

As far as I know, VW uses map data from “Here Maps.” At https://mapcreator.here.com you can submit changes.

Giving an update on this in case it helps someone in the future. I originally went to the garage expecting to have the crankshaft position sensor replaced. The mechanic I spoke to wasn’t entirely convinced that simply swapping the sensor would solve the issue. Interestingly, he also owns a Superb himself (a slightly newer model, but same generation) and had experienced similar problems. He suspected that the root cause might be damaged wiring, which he said is a common VAG issue on this platform. I left the car with them, and after two full days of diagnostics and inspection, they confirmed that the problem was indeed wiring-related. They found and replaced four damaged wires: One going to the crankshaft sensor Three others near the ECU, which were also causing communication issues They fully diagnosed the ECU, replaced the damaged wires, and ultimately decided to replace the crankshaft sensor as well, since it may have been affected by the faulty wiring or at risk of future failure. TL;DR If you're having intermittent jerks, limp mode, long cranks, or random engine shutoffs, especially if glow plug lights or other systems flash up, don’t overlook the possibility of damaged wiring, especially near the crankshaft sensor or ECU harness. On this generation of Superb, it's more common than you'd expect. Hope this helps someone! Feel free to reach out if you’re facing a similar issue.

Thanks for the link, I’m on non Damptronic. Your mods list is insane. Very impressive. 👌🏼

I don't think the engines were that bad that they needed an oil cooler for normal road use and I don't think anyone meant constant high revs but if you want to get up a mountain pass you don't be lugging the engine either. In the 1980s/90s for normal road use cars oil coolers were for exotics or those that might be pretending the cars needed them. Caravan and boats were towed by cars without oil coolers, probably not these Škoda. Much, much smaller engined cars were also going over mountain passes many decades before and engine oils got better in the 1960s/70s and again 90s/2000 and better still towards 2020s. I didn't always drive my 120LS, 130LS Estelles and 130 Rapid economically, though I'd not drive like in that video, the drive is about maintaining momentum, braking and slowing less, maintain the correct speed to manoeuvre safely at pace, none of my cars ever overheated the oils of the mid-80s to early 90s and these weren't special oils just those that the Škoda Dealerships of the time used. That was a UK perspective anyway.

See @Ootohere's comment. I read the original thread and literally can't make any sense of it. In fact, I can't make any sense of their entire profile. Either this is the unluckiest and most confused person in the world, or it's someone that needs to find a job. A) Broken heater B) Key somehow loses charge after a day C) Car won't lock D) It's been stolen several times E) There is a draught coming from the floor At this point, we have to assume it looks similar to this - Of all the places on the internet to troll/have fun/scam people, who on earth picks a Skoda forum 😂

Have a look at this video from Mattias MY2026

Tesla still top on European sales, ID3 and 4 going well and Skoda EVs bur Renault 5 doing well too......

Many thanks - you put me on the right path. I’ve just located the problem:

The diagnosis on mine was that it needs a new nearside mirror, which is being replaced under warranty! Interesting because that mirror does make a bit of graunching noise and moves a bit roughly when folding in and out. And neither mirrors were working when I picked it up (great, as they had obviously seen the fault), but they were working again by the time I got home!!! Just waiting for the call to get it booked in to be fixed.

NOT true VarioFex seats, rail on BOTH sides and (now) 2 hooks on each side. (23Mfr, early 24 Reg SE L)

The point of the video was also about the massive price hikes the Hybrid and PHEV have over the ICE, he actually makes the point about the amount of miles you would have to drive in pure electric mode to recoup that price difference, which is for a lot of people many years of motoring, which if you don't that many local miles, could mean that you pay a lot more for allegedly being green.☹️