Leaderboard

There will be a lot of cars registered but SORN on an airfield somewhere and not sold. That's the difference between the SMMT figures and the registered and taxed figures. Have a look on autotrader and there are stack of delivery miles vehicles available. Last time I looked there were about 79 Elroq vrs as an example and I'm sure there will be similar of other makes models and powertrains

So still the Social Divide. Not only those that can not charge an EV where they live / where their home is for 'much cheapness'. Now we are considering & discussing those that can generate their own electricity for charging vehicles or heating / powering their residence after spending on the stuff needed to do that. Maybe the Office for Statistics or whoever can give the % of those with offroad access for taking vehicles to charge and then those that have solar panels at the property. If they do not know they can make a guesstimate, or just publish any old figure. They can use AI and maybe come up with those with Solar Panels but no vehicle access to the property. Then those places like Farms / Race Tracks / Hospitals / Schools / Crems etc with Turbines and or Solar panels.

Me too. But the compression of my 1.8 TSI was also still normal when it was burning oil. I don't think that a compression test is the right way to test the condition of the oil-scrape rings (the lower of the three piston rings).

@lol-lol For the same purpose that false statistics are trotted out now by the Government or Politicians or those with a financial interest. This time it would maybe show that it is those and such as those that benefit most. The haves get more and more for less, and those at the lower statuses as far as wealth / income get shafted. Car registrations and those declared offroad when no private buyer has turned a mile in them is something that needs looked at much closer.

So on further investigation it has the wrong ignition switch fitted , 4 wire 1 plug , instead of the 6 wire two plugs , the other two wire plug has a diode taped into it under the steering column Battery is good and fully charged , not able to do any other tests as i have no ignition , so cant crank or do any tests on draw on battery , i have ordered correct switch and will see thanks graham

I've tried it and it does work.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The safest way is to plug an external 12 volt supply into the permanently live 12 V socket to power the central locking - ensure correct polarity! Centre contact is + Positive. With care, it is reported to be possible to gently bend the hood release lever towards centre of vehicle enough to allow it to clear passenger door and release the hood (not had to try this myself. Yet)

You can go 0w-30 or 5w-30, or 0w-40 or 5w-40 but don't get too hung up on the figures (even the VW ones) a good oil is a good oil and that's what you want. Longlife is more of a marketing and sales term and description. In my wife's 2015, 1.2 TSI (90PS, CJZC) I put 5w-30 but we're in the mild weather East Midlands/Anglian area not "the frozen north". I use Millers Oil's EE Performance (C3 5w-30) as they're a British blender (Brighouse, West Yorkshire) and you can ring them and talk to them and/or look at their website with "Which oil" oil finder, plus of course I have previously used their oils and found them to be good. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/ I can also recommend Mann oil filters. - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue.html Car oils always bring out lots of personal preferences and beliefs but if you follow VW's specifications and change the oil and filter when required you will cover normal use and expectations, whether you think VW will care about the engine lasting as long as possible and don't have commercial interests in oil manufacturers is up to you but that is not to say that those oils are not good oils just that you might be able to do a (little?) bit better depending on your car use and your expectations. Good luck with whatever you chose and do.

Update Today I received the first ever notification by the infotainment system that there is a system update available to be downloaded OTA to my car. It is the version 1989 update of the infotainment. So I assume this is due to the previously mentioned update of the OCU to version 0144. Remains to be seen whether the system update will actually be downloaded and installed. (Interesting to note is that I was not logged in on the app when I received the notification, which can, when reading the manual, be interpreted as mandatory to be able to receive system updates)

More cars of all power trains are being built than demand They are effectively building used cars that wont be classed as new sales

As useful as replying after 19 months isn't, I rang Skoda up last Feb and they said: "Your vehicle is equipped with the lifetime component (timing belt), which means it is recommended to be replaced when you experience issues with it." FWIW, mine is a 2020 1.5 TSI Octavia. When I asked him what "issues" are, he said: "when there's issues with your timing belt you will hear unsual noise when driving, warning light will come on a dashboard,visible wear during service." The person I spoke to was called Vuyani.

3: more cars are being built than demand so they are manipulating the registrations to meet the targets so they can sell what people want to buy.

Absolutely. Then there's 2 possibilities: EV aren't being pre-reg'd en-mass and left in a field/bunker. The numbers reflect the true ratio of pre-reg cars as per consumer demand. EV are being pre-reg'd en-mass and left in a field/bunker. It's all funded by the illuminati.

Good evening and welcome to Briskoda @VitesseEFI

Don't know what the Worcester wally, not me but Geoff Buys Cars, is alluding at but here is the SMMT Oct 25 data but he cannot seem to understand the simple numbers..... Petrol down, Diesel fizzling out, BEV well up, PHEV up, mild hybrids up a bit. Personally been really hard to get hold of an R5 as they are in such high demand, almost no discount. The numbers don't lie still bit to go to run at the 28% BEV but we are waiting a bunch of new EVs in 2026.

Like ME !! 👍

Thanks both. I did try manipulating the handle somewhat but it was pretty stiff and was nowhere near coming clear of the door. Unfortunately I don't have a 12v power supply so cant try that at the moment. Any other thoughts? Am consigned to getting the recovery folks out next.

Thank you both of you for your help. I'll trace the wires and grounds tomorrow and I'll update you.

Oil consumption with an EA888 is 99% of the times a problem with the piston rings. This is usually fixed by overhauling the engine (new pistons + piston rings). How can you be so sure that your engine does not suffer from issues with the piston rings? Has your engine already been overhauled in the past? In that case they forgot something, because normally they also replace the valve stem seals during the overhaul...

Indeed. That would be similar to plugging in a device to the wall socket and not connecting it to the device... If there is a wire broken somewhere (as an example), then it cannot communicate.

Just washed it. What helps is the Raceglaze water filter which means zero water marks, although I do towel most of it off. It really needs a whole day spent on it but I just don’t have the time at the moment.

Awesome, thankyou as always @Breezy_Pete

5Q0907643D, superseded by 5Q0907643E (£88.80 + VAT at Skoda).

I agree probaly a short or maybe poor earth somewhere. If there is a bad signal from door locking mechanisms theres no guarantee that all doors will lock so knowing VW/Skoda they may well have a system to disable central locking so you dont leave car with a door unlocked. Just a guess.

Thanks for the replies all, some good info… 👍🏼

Castrol Edge. I buy it when on special VW 502 00 I change it every 7,500km So half the recommended 15K. Engine as 310,000km on it

0w 30 FS III hardly got a mention until it was the recommended oil for some engines like thew TDI / TSI that VW Group did not Recommend 0w 20 FS IV for. VW508 00 / 509 00 So a few years after your car / engine was built. These in the chart below were for Fabia / Roomster TSI,s / petrols 2007-2015. 2007-2010 some were Fixed Oil Service Schedule only, while the engine in a VW could be Variable / Flexible Servicing. (Toyota changed from 5w 30 FS III to 0w 30 FSIII in 2010 after they had gone Euro 5 from Euro 4 and there were complaints about the kidology of MPGs, they had published.)

You do realise that all VAG group cars are very similar under the surface? The changes tend to appear on VW a little before Audi and Skoda. Seat sometimes lags behind. If you dive under the bonnet of your Skoda you'll see an awful lot of VAG makings on the parts. In the same way all 1.0 and 1.5 engines are built in the Skoda plant irrespective of the car they are used in. You should also be aware that there is a huge amount of stock in the pipeline, the date of a cars registration is meaningless. If you were given the Certificate of Conformity with the car (not mandatory and often binned by the dealer) you'll find the date of manufacture which is the relevant date to understand what the configuration of your car might be.

@BlueWagon What oil is it you use? Does the 5w 30 you use not say Long Life and is to VW504 / 507 & not say to VW 502 00 5w 40 FS is usually to VW502 00 & for fixed service intervals / 9,400 miles / 12 months. VW504 00 / 507 00 be it 0w 30 FS III or 5w 40 FS III is for Variable Servicing or Fixed Oil Servicing. @TenaciousLee Plenty 0w 30 FS III available. It is on the selves at ASDA or TESCO. But your engine just needs 5w 40 FS is fixed oil changes or 5w 30 FS III if fixed or variable. Seeing as it is a 2013 1.2 TSI.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/page/8/#findComment-4851340 12 + 6 LED version from Ali installed in 2016 Mk3 for current 2023 Mk3.FL i had to install 6 + 6 LED version, because 12 + 6 is out of stock :( https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/page/29/#findComment-5747777

Definitive answer have been out yesterday. Also in the Golf R When in D mode my car (2025 registered 2023 built) only shows D in normal drive mode. If I switch to S mode it shows S1, S2 ...etc. If I use the flappy paddles it shows gear number. This applies to most VAG models with DSG after 2021. Certainly appliers to our Golf.

Id say any 5W30 which meets VW 502 spec is fine. I think the 504 spec is more for extended service intervals, and a 2013 model would do well with more regular changes anyway I use 502 spec in a 1.4tsi

Heat Geeks reckon latest tech is vastly reducing water tank size needs according to the Just Have a Think guy. Not had a chance to thermodynamically assess and get third opinions on this. Your home setup sound well optimal for high and low ambient temperatures, storing cheap lecky and generating your own for home and EV. Model set up. Like me I expect you wish 3 phase was more readily available. If I could charge the cars at 11 or 22 kw that would be great.

Mine is 2023

Have you got your car yet? Picked mine up yesterday at 12.40pm by 3.40pm I had to call ŠKODA assist as it completely broke down while I was shopping. Car has 26 miles on it, not happy, not happy at all! Being picked up and transported back to dealership on Monday (it was closed by the time they got to us) sigh, back to waiting I guess…

I had 8 kW 4 way multi-split system installed during summer for £7000 (no grant, but there is 0% VAT). Basically almost whole house air conditioning that can cool or heat. So far, in these milder weather, I was able to use 100% heat pump and maintain about 1c higher room temperature than central heating. AC blows air and thus removes warmth feeling boundary layer on our skin, so need slightly higher thermostat temperature to feel similar warmth. This works for me to keep combi boiler gas central heating from kicking in. In terms of cost, 99% of my electricity comes from 7p/kWh off peak (or during Octopus free session). So should be cheaper due to efficiency of heat pumps, especially in mild weather. Really need a few years of data to average out the mild weather we are having. The other issue for mass heat pump adoption, beyond lack of skilled labour and poor installs, are the giant water tanks. My house is pretty well insulated, after a bit of my DIY with loft insulation. I set 45c flow temperature and were comfortable last winter. So we can get heat pump with minimum extra work for central heating. BUT we really like the combi boiler's instant hot water and absolutely don't have the space for the water tank. So the combi boiler stays and we'll use the AC units for heating as much as possible. Probably wait for combi boiler sized solutions and/or until there's whispers of end of BUS grant.

For clarity, that's for air source heat pumps - but effectively, ground source isn't an option for the majority.

At lower outdoor temperatures the efficiency of heat pumps is much lower. Sometimes not much more than 100% if it's very cold.

Hi all. I had to remove the rear bench so had to unclip the electrics for the rear bench heated seat elements. I put them back together exactly as they were originally, but after this they didn't want to switch on again. The centre console has power, the clock works and the kids can use the 12v socket for charging stuff, but the buttons for the rear seats won't activate the seat heating. Has anyone got any experience with this? I've tried:- Making sure the battery is full, just incase it's a charge issue Checked and replaced the fuses Ran VCDS diagnostic (auto scan), but no fault codes I'm totally confused what the issue could be. Can anyone point me to the specific area in the VCDS software, where you can configure and activate the rear heated seats please? I'm wondering if there might be a configuration issue. I have looked through 08 auto HVAC and can only see options and settings for the front heated seats,not the rears. Thanks in advance all 🙏

Hi all - would like to post my experience resolving an issue with the ski hatch on my MK4 Octavia SE Tech Bought the vehicle second-hand from a car supermarket. Found when I got it home that the ski hatch was inoperable. A small issue, but annoying. It was a slightly different issue to what has already been posted on the forum, so I felt a duty to share my findings. I would like to preface this with I have no idea if this is the correct method, but thought it would be useful to have the photos uploaded for others to see the inner workings. I will describe my steps below for reference, but I think the most important part of the post are the photos (which I could not find whilst researching before doing this). I have also attached some close up photos of some of the parts in case anyone wants to attempt a 3d model for printing. I do not have the time to do this unfortunately. I do not recommend following these steps, but I have described what I took below to try and help someone who might have a similar issue. This is not a tutorial First, I attempted to push harder on the ski hatch handle on both sides. This did nothing. I could see initially that the locking bars on each side had extended far beyond their intended ranges and the handle on the boot side was pushed in and stuck in a fully open position. Coincidentally, the interior side handle fell off, exposing the inner workings of the ski hatch. With the help of an uncomfortable amount of force and a screwdriver, I managed to slide the internal mechanism down, retracting the locking arms on both sides. With the ski hatch now open, the handle was still inoperative. I removed it from the vehicle with the two bolts which were now exposed and was able to inspect properly. For the same reason, I removed the arm rest part, which was possible by removing two bolts on either side. I was unable to remove the bottom cushion, but found this was unnecessary. Using plastic trim removal tools, I managed to separate both sides of the plastic ski-hatch, breaking almost every single one of the clips at the sides 🥲. It is clear this was not meant to be dismantled by someone inexperienced (like me!) There were some particularly difficult clips to undo on the upper and lower surfaces - some large, angled spencer-wells managed to undo these. There were more clips under the bottom cushion which I found were easier to disengage by angling the plastic and pushing. With the internal side of the ski hatch removed, it was now possible to see this issue - I have tried to illustrate this below. After putting these into position, and placing the original spring back on one of the locking arms, the handle was now able to move freely. I lubricated all moving parts with a silicone grease. The internal handle was placed back into position (the crescent shaped plastic supports pop back in. I added some adhesive to prevent them falling out again as it seems to be a common issue) along with its spring (see photos). After function was confirmed, I closed it back up with some silicone to try and make up for the broken clips (whilst still being possible to dismantle if it breaks again). It has been 3 days and all seems well. I am being fairly gentle with it, but it is not something I use frequently. Thanks for reading - if you have any questions or if I have posted this in the wrong section, please let me know. It is my first proper post.

Certainly that is true of a service plan. It is not true of a warranty, which like any insurance product lays off risk from the buyer's point of view. Skoda will no doubt make a profit from the warranties in aggregate, but that comes from pooling risk. There can be good reasons not to buy insurance - for example, if premium is high and the likelihood of having to claim is low - but the opposite is true of these warranties: the premium is low when compared to the cost of even one typical repair, and the chance of a failure is fairly high. No VAG products do well in the large-scale reliability statistics (though SEAT does better then Skoda, while VW does worse). In my experience over 15 years that is all untrue. The chance of expensive failures gets greater, not less, as the car ages. And the warranty, if you opt for comprehensive cover, covers everything except wear and tear items. (I speak of Skoda UK warranties, not those from 3rd parties, some of which are poor products.)

I've done a factory reset, we'll see. First time for me, but a couple of things i found interesting. After the reset it seemed to restore the settings I had back when I first registered as primary user, not what I'd set since. Its interesting because they were not defaults, so it is definitely "restoring" something. When I registered the keys, I mistakenly pressed unlock in the opposite order to what I did the first time. This seems to have made both keys map to the same, primary user profile. I don't really mind that, but just find it a bit bizzare and nondeterministic behaviour. After getting out, locking the car, unlocking and getting back in the car was asking for an S-PIN. I don't ever remember setting one, and I'm normally pretty good at keeping a record of these things. I made one up, and it seems to have worked. I'm hoping this fixes my issues, and I dread encountering some of the issues you guys have mentioned. I agree with others about it likely being incompatible database schmea or file metadata - devs in general are notorious for not thinking about how migrations will work. What is worrying is all these sorts of issues are usually the sign of crap developers and lack of testing; the last thing you want in a f*ucking car!

No thanks, whilst I really like the end result I find cleaning and polishing a bit of a chore these days. I used to quite enjoy it but it's one of those things that's dropped down my "favourite things to do list" !! I'm assuming you're driving a VRS of some type Mr Rocky ?

Took delivery of my new 2025 Kodiaq vRS around a month ago now. Love it! Its got quite a few optional extras on it, as it was originally ordered for one of the staff, but while he was on holiday I asked if I could buy it instead before he had it 😆

Just installed a 12v USB C and A socket replacing the 12v Cig lighter socket. Was able to reuse the connections to the car, removing the existing and then soldering the new wires from the adaptor and making good. Just tested and all works fine, had to trim a little the back of the unit where the new socket went as the lock ring catch along with trimming down the lock ring also. Also didn't destroy the old one getting it out, there are 2 tabs which you need to press in to get the inner metal socket out from the plastic surround and then you can remove the plastic surround, as this is held in by the metal socket.

For everyone interested, I put the newest versions ALL in ONE link: MIB3_Skoda_SW_1941_1969_1985_1989 I upgraded with this files one by one, no issues. Hope it helped.

My reply to @skoda998 has been removed by a Mod. It was between their posts. Not sure what i posted was not factually correct. I have leased and bought using HP 14 cars from Motability since 1977. Never given one for FREE, always paying over the FREE MONEY i get which for quite few years i never got, or got back dated after appeals. There are a lot of people that really have not a clue about just how much money is paid to millions of people. Like those getting £227 a week in Pension Credit because they never built up enough to get a UK State Pension.

Thank you, I know how it works. The numbers are staggering. Either we are a VERY sick nation or we are overly generous and tens of thousands know how to game the system. No wonder the country has no money.

Had an Arona for 7 years with the 1.0 tsi 115 DSG It was surprisingly nippy, and in everyday use, great rather than merely adequate. You won't have any problems going up hills even with it loaded. However if you want to overtake going up a hill loaded then probably better off with 1.5 Note the 1.0tsi DSG seems to have had power outputs between 110 and 116 ps over last 8 years, so check carefully which version you get. Manual versions can be as low as 95ps in some models