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Tyre companies do punctures at the roadside in England so I'm pretty sure Scotland does as well. If an EV runs out of charge then a mobile charger comes and tops it enough to reach a fixed charger. So it seems reasonable to suggest that if they are put on recovery truck, that it is highly probable that the problems are more severe and need workshop assistance?

Brim = 1st click on nozzle.

Took parents home after Boxing day and thought I'd show off and activate the rear heated seats (first time using them) on my VRS MK4.5 (UK). Set both seats to the 2nd heat level without issue. Drove back home, decided to check if seats needed turning off but the controls wouldn't respond. Tried in settings to turn on/off no good.Left car and checked next day , all working again. Definitely one to keep an eye on if you have the winter pack and have people in the back.

To view satellites being received if your system is Amundsen MIB2. Boot up Navigation, Activate bottom task bar with gesture, Touch 'View', Menu box will display options (Auto; Day; Night; Split-screen; POIs) Select Split-screen (tick box), this will display a box on screen showing Lat/Long; Altitude and a satellite dish symbol, GPS - (X/X) being number of satellites currently in view. If this display shows between 0/0 and 2/2 you are not receiving signals from sufficient satellites to fix your position. The GPS antenna on the estate (combi) is the 'shark fin' at the rear on the roof and there is some history of the PCB in the antenna base being damaged by water ingress.

The Jag ipace I saw out of power in a car park was where the owner had thought he had made it and would have if he’d not taken a wrong turn in the car park as less than 20 meters from the chargers. Guy had no idea where bonnet release etc and to add insult to injury the poor sod had left the lights on so the 12v was so flat it wouldn’t take a charge from a granny charger to get enough to drive to the charger.

BEV now, plug-in hybrid a bit down the line.

Thanks for the feedback. That's a shame about the Ottocast mini. I was contemplating, in the future, to "upgrade" to the Ottocast Mini, but given my family r Android users, and our existing AAWireless (Gen 1) have been faultless n haven't miss a beat - I'll leave it as is.

What, I think, you could be referring to is Traffic Sign Recognition (TSR). This was an option for MY 2023 so it would depend if your car was specified to be built with TSR. I have a 73 plate Sportline that does not have TSR, and despite having the necessary camera and software, the coding is known but it cannot be applied as it has been protected. I had my Karoq analysed by HazzyDayz who had hoped to retro fit TSR by updating the the coding, but if wax impossible. You can set the Nav screen to display the speed limit for the current road. I have this switched on but it’s only visible on the large central screen and it’s not displayed on the virtual cockpit screen. Generally the map speed limit data is up to date.

Sounds like the thermostat in that case....but it is worth replacing both and ideally with genuine VAG parts.

Evolution 13 Yip its January and Scotland but we do get bright sun on occasion and i hate all these lights its not a 44t Volvo FH16 its a car

My Sportline 4x4 is only 2 yrs old and done 12,000 miles so not needed a DSG oil change yet. My previous wet clutch DSG had 3 oil and filter change services, the last in 2023 was around £300 parts labour and VAT, the oil is expensive 2015 £68 +vat, 2018 £75 + vat, 2023 £101 +vat, and going up alot each time too. I think my DQ 250 only had 5 litres too,. Your quote doesn't seem unreasonable to me.

That's what I said, 39% for all battery fires, as you discovered they don't breakdown the figures. But 39% is i large increase, if that was BEV sales you all would be trumpting it as proof that electric was the future, when in reality sales are around half that percentage figure. If there were 39% increase in ICE fires you all would shouting it from the roof tops, again claiming electric cars are far less likely to catch fire. You have to be fair, the fires are Lithium related and not oil. The only real difference between electric cars and scooters / bikes is one of scale!

Correct, time will indeed reveal everything, it always did. It saw the rise and decline of the first round of BEVs and also steam driven lorries, and the rise to promeince of the diesel being heralded as the fuel of choice against petrol and then it's fall from the spotlight. We will see what the next few years bring. London fire brigade are getting worried having seen a 39% increase in the number battery fires this year, suggesting as they age, more fires are likely?

I have just once, and it started to work again after car shut down completely, and then was started

I always recommend you carry out a staggered full 36,000-mile (60,000km) service of the whole car in between driving the car. Priorities to check and service or repair as required are brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) safety electrics (lights, horn. wipers, blower, etc.) reflective number plates (see and be seen). A 12v battery in good state of charge and health is always best, also helps with diagnosis of starting, electric and electronic issues. Check all cables, wire, connections are all clean, secure and protected. Engine, gearbox (diff) - replace oils and filter(s) and as much as possible and practical clean and flush. Replace plugs and other ignition parts as required. Clean fuel system (replace filter) as possible, check fuel pump. Cooling/heating system - clean, flush, back-flush, flush again, refill engine block, radiator, pipes and matrix. Clean external rad fins and grille. Thermostat, sensors and water pump as required. Power steering - flush replace fluid. Actually frequent regular use of the car will help you to sort the car and learn how to drive it and what it is capable of, once fully(?) sorted you don't need to treat it much different to when it was used when new. Keep letting us know how things are going.

Sorry I wasn't sure if it was you with a different engine. The chaps have given a good thing to check based on their knowledge and ownership experiences. Don't rely on lights lighting up to warn you, wrongly, they used to be known as idiot lights over here, same for the warnings and lights on your modern car, they'll flash up like an Xmas tree if you let the 12v battery get just slightly low in state. It can be handy to have two people at a start up like this to look under the bonnet and exhaust as that can sometimes give clues. Subject to checking everything, particularly all the safety components and systems and not just engine, the car needs taking for reasonable distance drives to get things fully warmed up and moving more freely and to test all and find wrinkles and niggles and faults and give an order of attention priority or need. Off topic A mate had the first of the BMW MINI John Cooper Works, he got it very early and took it to a show and won a 1st Prize with it at an owner's show. He did keep his cars very clean and polished but never usually put them in shows as he knew more about the cars (BMC/BL Minis too) than concours judges but he told me the cup would add to the premium for the car when he sold it.

I've got that problem on the left rear seat, on investigating the outer of the bowden cable is no longer clamped in the seat back so I need to work out a way to reclamp it while working in the small space available through the opening in the seat cloth.

None confirmed ones, many reports of car/vehicle fires on local radio and highways dept have reported many on M25 and M11 but not stated what they were so no point posting about them.

Nope, it’s set at max. And it’s rarely happening, but this is why I don’t fully trust it:))

@Evolution13 much the same happens with the fire brigades, they often claim that they weren't told that the car on fire was an EV. That info is important to pass on to fire crews, breakdown services etc.

Not a "Car", the word short for carrus /carrum which is wheeled vehicle but similar issues with motorcycle EVs as "car" EVs ...... Pretty amazing for range and charging speeds ie as good as ICE, or actually better for range !

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When I bought my 4yr old Passat from a VW Main dealer in 2021 as an Approved vehicle, I asked for details of what their Service Dept had done in preparation, as the salesman said it was more than an oil change. I was given a copy of the usual VW workshop invoice, detailing all work done. When I had the car serviced the following year at my local VW Main Agent, they gave me a full printout of the Service Record and queried that there was no entry for the previous year. 'But I have the VW Invoice for it!?', I replied. After many calls, it turned out that the 2021 service details had been entered on the VW Financials system, (I guess as part of the cost of sale details), and is visible on that system's 'Sevice History Certificate'. However, as it was not on the usual Servicing system, it was missing from the usual 'Service History' report. Getting the proper Servicing History corrected was beyond the capabilities of man or machine, apparantly... (I post this as I expect/guess many of the VAG computer systems are shared across brands...)

The Kylaq comes with a 1.0 TSI turbo petrol engine mated to either a 6-speed manual or a 6-speed torque-converter automatic transmission in India.

Check that the seal from the previous oil filter isn't still in the housing, this has happened to me before, see https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532356-timing-chain-or-throttle-valve/#comment-5942760

Many years ago, the first time that I needed to use a new "good" set of jump leads to help a neighbour out - I failed, same outcome as you had! Crimps on the leads were very substandard, I replaced/reinforced the crimps on the crock clips with heavy duty cable clamps - and over the next 30+years have never had the need to use these leads! With modern cars I'd only ever now use a jump pack, which also has many uses as a portable 12V DC power source.

Because many, now a days, want to ride in a car rather than drive a car. ACC is NOT autonomous driving. It just keeps the speed and slows down to keep a safe distance from the car in front if that car is doing less than you set on cruise control. As to why you would want to code it out and not just rurn it off, confuses me. In places such as Vic, Australia where ther are speed cameras every 5km hidden behind road signs and the back of overpasses etc, you spend more time looking at the speedometer than at the road in front of you. You tend to drive watching the speedo with the occasional glance at the road to check the road, rather than the otherway around as we are taught when learning to drive. On a highway, ACC can help you focus more on the road and means you arent constantly braking and turning cruise back on again. If you dont live in a police state, then ACC may be less useful. As previously mentioned, you dont HAVE to use it. You can have it off by default. For the record, i have driven many 1000km per day trips in Australia and Europe on all manner of sealed and unsealed roads. I also prefer to drive a car.

Maybe give it another scan in case theres any other codes stored. Nothing worse than a car that wont start all the time. If it was starting ok before belt change then chances are its something mechanic has done. Hope you get it sorted soon Alasdair

Yes, if you are running with the original water pump; they will just die (impellers just grenade and destroy themselves). New VAG waterpumps are metal; You get two warnings with waterpumps; temperature rockets....goes down.....rockets up again then the pump dies.

On one of the GPS screens (in settings/split-screen, I think), there is a function that displays the number of satellites currently in view - if an antenna fault is causing your issue, this will show how many are being received.

It might be worth checking what version of firmware you are running on your MIB2 system. There might be a bug stopping the system from working correctly. Press and hold MENU, go to system and version information and make a note of what the current firmware is. I have seen these inaccuracies before on the MIB systems and as the previous responder stated, they usually (eventually) correct themselves.

I did it with an adapter, but in mqb

The data set for driving profile selection in the gateway also includes the method used for switching between profiles. Simply modifying it isn't possible. I myself converted from a button in the center console to a rotary knob.

I had a look on the internet. The part number appears to indicate that it is from a VW Tiguan. I found the following listing which gives the wheel specification and it is different from that mentioned above in my posting: eBay UK''18 SPACE SAVER SPARE WHEEL TYRE 145/85/R18 4J ET28 VOLK...Year: 2017. Model: Tiguan SE Nav 2WD. Make: Volkswagen. Body Shape: SUV. A signature may be required. Security Marks: All parts are security marked/photographed. This part is a used, previously fittedI do not have the technical knowledge to say whether or not scotthugh3s wheel/tyre will fit an Octavia IV but the specifications of the wheel and tyre are different from my posting above.

I'm not doing brim to brim - well I do, but it varies with type of use, and it's hard to replicate as you're not supposed to literally fill to the brim - I'm cumulative totalling the amount of fuel bought and the mileage. I've been doing that on the Karoq for 10K miles, so it's pretty constant now.

For GR the O 'C measurement can be achieved.

Is it not exactly what you though? GOD oh mighty it was NOT fun to get the cables to the air distribution flaps on place. Was just about to cut open the dash insert... But got the clips on place with lång 90 degrees angled pliers from the ashtray hole (the lower flap) and the heater controller hole (the upper flap) and from the glove box hole with all sorts of angles tools to push. Its doing keyhole surgery, blind. Couple of tools to through in the wall is good to have too and loads of swearing, when you loose your temper.....

Basically, it was like a bag of nails to begin with , but after 1/2 an hour, was idling fine - I am guessing that 2 weeks of inactivity and minus temps could have contributed, but I'm not an expert. But, it's a '98 model, 1.3 Felicia LXI Petrol, about 100k miles, and we've only just been given the car, so we have no idea of what's been replaced, but it has been recently serviced.

many thanks bigade1

Fixed. Thank you for the help. Wonder why this happens.... See the the arrow - that pin should be inside the outer plate. LORD it wasnt fun job - and still have to put all back again. Have no idea how Im going to get the plastic clips to the air flow flaps on place..... Always one thing to get clips out and totally other job to get them to attach again.... So what I did: Out with: Dash insert Instrument cluster (had new cable on it so couldnt get off the cable from cluster, took off on the gearbox) - left hanging Glove box insert Loosen all four cables to air control flaps, two in engine bay and two are reached from glove box hole Now I could get off the ash tray insert when heater control panel is loose Attached wires to the cables from engine bay and pulled them inside car And after turning the heater knob, I could get the controller out through instrument cluster hole!

I don't think so.. yo can look on Amazon for Scala cheaper alternatives if original is to expensive for you

Well, I managed to install it properly. It seems basic, but I made sure that only the lighting area of the strip stands out from plastic. Removed all the angles I tried to do and just taped it regularly and now everything looks great. Note that I used the black edition of the led strips rather than the transparent like the original post.

Small update on the car, still going strong after the engine issues. Booked in for another exhaust system in January, cat back 3" cobra sports system. And at some point will get my new wheels from my sponsor on. Not a full sponsorship but got a massive deal. Here's a couple of pics to tease.

I suspect that, if the phone has Android Auto enabled, even though you cancel the connection, the phone will attempt to reconnect after a delay. If you dont want to use Android Auto then you probably need to disable it on the phone.

Early MIB3 units could only do wireless CarPlay and wired Android Auto. MiB3 unit since then can do wireless BOTH CarPlay and Android Auto. MIB2 and MIB2.5 units can never do wireless - hence they need dongles like AAWireless or OttoCast.

Activation of the Mode button on the Skoda steering wheel Requirements: Gateway 3Q0 Drive Modes KLR module update the FPA dataset like for any VW R, configure the Voice button to Mode via Lin module and everything works.

Hi, sorry I never got a chance to say how much I appreciate the infos. Shortly after my post, the car developed multiple issues and I got some health issues at the same time. End result being the car's been sitting on my drive since then, unused apart from the occasional start and slow move around in my drive and I've been unable to work on it. Truly good of you, thanks!

New steering wheel fitted. Looks and feels better than the old one.

https://www.boomblasters.com/product/cow-moo-sounds-car-horn/

Thanks for that waste of time