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I do this for 20+ years, the gear stick in N and the pedal pressed, reduces the initial ''load'' for the engine to start in cold. @TonyW1967 When you turn the key to the 1st as i saw twice that you don't wait for the pump to make it's work and you crank immediately, why? This is wrong especially in a cold engine.

Cellphone signal strength is immaterial for GPS - it needs a clear view of the sky. I'd suggest you first need to get the GPS antenna checked.

This is the virtual console theme. 0 is standard on mine.... if I switch to 4 I get this....

Normal. The servo has to let cabin air into its rear chamber when pedal is pressed, to provide the assistance. I suspect your attention to it has just been heightened by anxiety about brake function.

Try a compression test to see if all cylinders are fairly equal and within spec. If your losing a lot and theres no blue smoke then it must be going somewhere. If theres an undertray fitted I would remove and have a good look. Have had oil leaks in the past that ended up on undertray so no drips. Check theres no oil in coolant as well. Could also be crank seal in bellhousing area. On my sons fabia theres a slight slot at base of bellhousing where it meets Gbox. I assume its to let any fluid that leaks out but are prone to blocking. Alasdair

@Trickiejohn @Ccc1 thanks both - appreciate it

Loosing oil or water? Head gasket normally leaks water rather than oil

Well, I solved it. Turns out that the leads are ok, they're rated for up to 3000cc. But on the Alhambra engine bay, I'd made a mistake about where to connect the black cable to earth it. The actual earthing strip is just a thin bit of bare metal with a painted nut or something either side of it. Looks like the first time I'd connectedd to the painted bit not the unpainted bit, which is very thin and can only be clipped to one way!

The low oil level warning came on today. I stopped the car, checked the oil level with the dipstick. yes, definitely low. I added oil. Now about halfway up the dipstick check area. However, I don't know how to turn the warning condition off. There are no options to reset it (as there are for low tyre pressure). The manual says that the warning goes out when the bonnet is opened for more than 30s, and comes on again after another 100km if the oil is still too low, but this is clearly incorrect - like much that I find in the manual! I had the bonnet open for several minutes while I topped up the oil and re-checked it. Is there a way to reset the warning that doesn't involve paying a garage to do it with diagnostic gear? The car is due for its oil change anyway in a couple of weeks, so maybe I should just live with it until that's done. . .

Looks like a light surround for a latch? Looks like the seatbelt latch

Er, what is it?

I have got some of this. One of my issues is whilst the R5 and Scenic have their charge points left front wing looking forward ie Passenger side for uk rhd vehicles, the Mini Cooper has the cgarge port right side rear ie Drivers side where the dino juice filler would be. Thus means the cable can need to go a variety of routes across the drive and even a bit over front grass sometimes. More of a fan of the aerial route. Perhaps get myself one of those fake Victorian gas lamppost to hang it from, would enjoy the irony. As to charge ports it would be good if consistent. Quite liked the Zoe's on the nose. As Bjorn Nyland says, and Tom Robinson, the Left side is the right side and the Right side is the wrong side !

As you can see in the extract from the Superb MK4 owner's manual below, there are two Skoda approved wheel sizes that are suitable for the use of snow chains, ie. 215/60R16 7Jx16 ET43 and 215/55R17 7Jx17 ET43. Bear in mind, that Skoda also has a 7.5Jx17 ET41 rim for the Superb MK4 and that size rim is not approved by Skoda for snow chains...so attention does need to be paid to the rim width and offset, as well as the tyre size...when selecting winter wheels. Look in the Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue for reasonable price alloy rims...although some Czech websites such as "skoda eshop cz" are good at displaying most of the alloy rims that Skoda have in their "Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue". Skoda uses this catalogue to compete on price with aftermarket alloy rims...hence the generally competitive prices. Technical data and specifications (from Superb MK4 owner's manual) Permitted rim and tyre combinations for mounting snow chains: Rim dimensions Tyre dimensions 7J×16 ET43 215/60R16 7J×17 ET43 215/55R17 Only use snow chains with links no larger than 13 mm, including locks. "skoda eshop cz" (alloy rims from the "Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue") https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3ASuperb%2BIV%2B%25282024%252B%2529&text=#

From the Lat/Long displayed on your post, it would appear that your receiver is receiving some basic positioning data - but not sufficient to get a proper fix, this would tend to reinforce the likelihood of an antenna fault to me.

It is correct that the warning Yellow Oil Can light or message will go out if the bonnet is opened and even no oil added, and will stay out for 62 miles / 100km. So you have a fault somewhere. As to your half up the cross hatch, how much oil was that you put in? Still too low really. When was it last at a good level, miles ago, or weeks?

I will show you picture the flat pipe tomorrow.

In old terms it's flooded cos the car's 'puter ain't not getting told right. In the videos you put up the exhaust smoke didn't show any bad over-fuelling. And there we have why you question 99% or 100% of what. The ECT may not be 99% or 100% responsible for failure to start, other factors and elements may also be in the mix for the failure. That is not to say the that 99% or 100% might not be faulty and possibly responsible for non-start when all else is ruled out.

Boll*cks ! Computer lost my answer to Thefeliciahacker, so I'll let it go. ETA: now this post wont load up - blo*dy computers! I'll leave D.FYLAKTOS to give his answer to your question but give more general advice for you and your son that applies to any car but particular an old car. When you get in the car switch the ignition on and wait a while before trying to start the engine so that you can check all the dash lights that should come on and go out do that. After a bit of time using the car you soon learn what lights should light up and go out and which should or shouldn't light up or remain alight. Whilst waiting you could put your seat belt on and check the handbrake is fully applied. When you pull over to park the car up don't switch the engine off immediately, leave it running for about 30 seconds to check everything is as it should be with the car as you did when before and after starting the engine. After you start the engine don't just immediately pull away instead listen. look, feel and smell for anything different to usual or shouldn't be. Turn on or adjust anything required before then pulling away (check mirrors and over shoulder. Another habit to get into is not to turn anything electrical on (other than any required safety items) before the engine is running and you've satisfied yourself things are as usual with the car. Conversely, turn off all electric item (unless required for safety) before you turn the engine off, something very difficult for some to do (they leave the radio/stereo switch on, wipers, etc.) let alone talking on a phone!

I don't know if this will help but on one of my Roomsters (same setup), I had to sit in the back seat and shove it back with some force before the mechanism would allow me to lift the seat out. But that was only with the rear seats in their original positions.

The one and only: Motorola MA1

See in the first seconds? Waiting for the pump to stop, then i crank and after few seconds the engine is in idle.

Well done mate.

Happy to report it's fixed, no more fountain. I had planned to prise one of the little nozzle balls out of the used part I bought, but when I saw how the whole front part comes out, I just swapped it. It is secured with a little plastic spring clip that you have to gently prise up to disengage the ratchet, then the unit just pulls out. It's a bit fiddly fighting the spring, I pulled the piston right out and then put my mole grips on it to keep it out.

Hi, Thanks for the reply. I’m probably biased by past experience—my old 1992 Corolla ran over 280,000 km on its original clutch before I replaced it after more than 30 years. So a ~100,000 km clutch life definitely feels short by comparison. That said, the clutch doesn’t feel worn. The bite point is still relatively low in the pedal travel (around 2–3 cm before full release), and there are no drivability issues. This seems less like conventional wear and more likely a combination of design characteristics and age-related degradation (e.g. grease in the transmission/clutch components). I’ll update the thread once I have more information, but it does look like a repair may be required at some point in the foreseeable future. Many thanks 😁

Thanks, there is indeed a hill to the left of the car, but if it wouldn't bump start, there's no way we would be able to push it back up again! When I finally got it going the other day, it took ages, with many 'almost' moments, so I'd be reluctant to try that TBH.

Sorry, forgot you mentioned this. I know this works as I did it in the way home from collecting the car last week. Also, when I press and hold to "save" the Views, it does actually save the options in either side window, so I know the screen functions correctly. No idea what's causing the Personalisation glitch though. It's not a huge issue as my wife doesn't drive the car, so I can keep Personalisation off and just set things as I want and leave them. It's just an odd trait.

I have removed cambelt info as it applies to Europe not Israel. Apologies to eyalasd. I assume other servicing (and maintenance) intervals are also different for what used to be termed "severe(?) driving conditions"(?) which would include Dust Rich.

The Cam Belt recommendations on replacement are on Dust Rich or Not Dust Rich regions, not actually on climate / temperature, but then Dust Rich is more likely where it is hotter climates. PS. Something was not right in the first place that Replacement Clutch Packs were required. I think the Tech is at it as far as a common noise, if that is what they are saying.

Thanks. I am total newbee.

I expect there will be plenty orders going in for KIA EV,s and MINI Countryman EV,s this quarter from customers of Motability.

Doomed, all doomed. Never going to catch on. They can just try to encourage more to buy or lease while also discouraging others. Lets see how 2026 goes with more choices and lower priced BEV,s and maybe more getting interested in them. & 3 year old Company cars & Motability ones needing replaced.

Currently 0/16 satellites 🛰 explains alot. Also we are in a very poor area for phone signal..

Might be worth checking breather valve/PCV in case its clogged or jammed. Alasdair

Yes I have a Seat Altea. It sat for a couple of months until I got round to MOT it. Heard a clunk when I left for garage which I put down to spring/top mount sticking . Had checked them all before hand. When the garage who was puting it through MOT checked the car over both front springs had broken at top and 1 rear as well. Garage said can happen if the car sits for a long time especially when freezing but its unusual but not impossible for both to break. They were all fresh breaks Expensive MOT that year. Alasdair

Just to eliminate a screen fault, try setting a preset on your radio by holding down on the screen

When you save by holding down the preset on the screen you should get a 'ding' sound from the speakers. I use the same VC screen as what you want with the big dial in the middle but mine isn't as fancy as yours. Do you know if yours came from the factory with VC? I'm wondering if someone has fitted it after and not coded it correctly. It looks like some coding has been done to make it looks like that, unless that's standard on the 280. Also, I have no personalisation option in my menu?!

Reckon as long as the brakes work on the testing machine and are equal then it will pass. Sons was like this as well and passed MOT no bother. Alasdair

The figures are out, despite all the claims that EVs were flying out the showrooms, they still managed to sell even less than they did in 2024. In 2024 the target was 22%, infact total number of new cars sold last year was 2,020,373 and in 2019 they sold 2,300,000 new cars, meaning that people are hanging onto their old cars longer. In 2024, the target for EV's was 22% of new cars, but only 19.6% was hit, down 3.4% on the target set by the government and last year the target was supposed to be 28% but only achieved 23.4%, down 4.6%. I wonder just how low that percentage would be if it was not all those forced onto mobility scheme users and cars being pre-registered and then SORN and parked up?

Yeah that's the same as above, thanks though. I've tried everything I can think of regarding the Virtual Cockpit selection, I've tried to explain here if anyone's even remotely curious 😆

My original topic was fabia reg 2022 mk4 1.0 tsi with sharp brakes on just touching pedal. Members seem to gone of subject and coment on 25 year old cars.

@Carlston might be able to show where you might get rims, or Tyre / Rim sets.

Maybe every 100k. Or with a clutch change whenever that may be needed.

@GoneToBeemer I am UK. I am poverty spec SE Technology Dec 2024. 😋 The user manual details Travel Assist and that's what is shown in car on the ACC assist menu but I agree, the online brochures don't mention it on any spec. As @JuSko says, prob a question to the dealer just to be sure.

On the estate, those are the radio antennas.

Could potentially be, but yours will be the main thermostat and I think that's a little more involved to replace (although not impossible).

That was just the ABS kicking in I think. Did it feel like the pedal was vibrating harshly underfoot? As with any VW group car of this era; probably a good idea to check the brake servo vacuum hose for cracks at the junctions of the hard plastic sections. Edit: and check your tyre pressures, MOT doesn't.

Have you examined the brakes for wear? Grinding noises occur when a pad has worn down and the backing plate is directly contacting the disk.

Hello, Updates on the above: I've tried the Presents/Options in Car Scanner PRO, without any luck on SK MkIV! I've also tried, but didn't manage, to read and save 7201 dataset with MIB Manager(VcTool). The only option that worked is activation of VIM option. Happy New Year!

Derbyshire 👍

Hi guys, Just mounted a dash cam on my Karoq and I think it looks pretty good. The price was 50$ and it's a fhd camera 1920×1080 30fps, no wirring to the fusebox was neccessary, it came with a power cable that connects to the rain sensor. I am attaching few pictures here maybe it helps someone and also a link https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKO4uX2 They have also a 4k option. 🥂