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Pressure test and a sniff test next IMO.

FWIW mine are Konig chains too. They're good quality, and yes, relatively expensive. But in the unlikely event that you actually need to use them, you absolutely don't want cheapie chains that break after a few hundred meters...and it sounds like you may be limited by what is available to fit yours also. We drive next weekend so just been practicing putting them on!

Then coolant is escaping into the cylinder block. Either cylinder head gasket or EGR cooler has failed.

Fabia Mk3 is 5 x 100 / 57.1 centre bore /46 offset Citigo is 4 x 100 / 57.1 centre bore / 35 offset Dealer has got it wrong. You should be able to pick up a spare from scrapyard. or use https://www.wheelfitment.eu/ for alternative wheels that fit (search by PCD) Possible tyre sizes for fabia are 185/60/15 215/45/16 215/40/17 Alasdair

I'm aware of a few owners who have switched from Xenon to LED bulbs, including myself. I made the switch 1.5 yrs ago - from Xenon D3S to LED D3S bulbs. I have a MY17 pre-facelift. I bought J.W. Speaker D3S LED bulbs - they're really good. No errors, no issues and the lighting is much better than the previous Xenons I had, Phillips XtremeVision Gen2, which were an upgrade from the factory Xenons. These LED bulbs have a built-in fan, which conveniently fits within the headlight cover at the back. Highly recommended. As for condensation build up - I hardly got that before. I haven't got it since.

Hello 👋 Just recently bought a 64 plate VRS Fabia. Looked through this forum whilst doing my research before buying it so thanks 😅. Look forward chatting with you. Cheers 😁

If it's and AWD model it will be as capable with or without the selector switch, the selector only does a bit of fine tuning, it does not turn the system on and off, the system is active at all times to step in if required.

You don't need bump stops for the fronts. You can use bump stops from i believe the Ibiza, they're part number 6Q0512131D, they're what i have on mine and they're perfect.

There is some logic there... I just can't work out in my head if it will work... I guess what you're doing is adjusting the cam sprocket to accommodate the amount of chain lengthening between the crank and cam which has put the timing out. With the tensioner taking up the slack on the other side it sounds plausible but I'd query why that isn't a typical 'fix' as opposed to a new chain... which makes me wonder if it wouldnt work. Need to think on it...

And some string tied through the rag in case that falls in? 😆

Worth stuffing a non-fluff rag down below your workings to act as a dropped item catcher.

It's common sense really and applies to lot's of places that get a lot of snow, Europe, US & Canada. People head out on mountain roads with inappropriate boots and either get stuck, blocking the road for everyone or go off the road completely. Not that different here, even with good winter tyres you're still going to get stuck behind the one in front doesn't have decent boots.

I missed this post last month, are you still looking for help? I would expect the suffix letter to matter, it may be the only difference in the part numbers of several different-sized TBs for different engines. Looking at partslink24, a 2013 Roomster CBZA engine appears to require part number 03F 133 062 with no suffix. This is not showing as having been superseded by any other part number. I would not expect any versions with a suffix to be identical. I think these are generally quite reliable, so I would consider using a secondhand genuine part.

You need a New one

With the shocks bolted in, the springs don't get anywhere near close to being loose. I meant that with the shocks out you still need to push the beam down to get the springs out. Sorry for the confusion. I've got H&Rs in mine, also had Eibachs, prefer the H&Rs.

Take your point. I think if there was a solid dump of snow I would rather be on chains coming down a series of hairpins with a sheer drop off the side - no matter what cunningness of the legal requirements may be.

The springs do not fall out or loosen when the car is in the air with standard length shocks. The fronts do become a little wiggly but not enough to become unperched. You can fit the front springs without a spring compressor, though removing the old ones from the strut assembly you should unless you want broken bones. You can also change the rears easily by unbolting the bottom shock bolt and pushing the beam down. The geometry of the mountings stops it dropping down completely by itself, but be careful as there are brake hoses that run over the beam that may become stretched if you push it too far. Not had an issue mysepf though.

On my iPad, you just press and hold, to get that and more information 👍👍

I finally figured it out, but thanks for your answer! 🙏

I too use All Seasons but it appears the o/p is heading to the Alps where it is compulsory to carry chains in certain areas. Note too that even Michelin's really useful looking mesh "Michelin Easy Grip Evolution Limited 7" snow socks are not approved items in these locations. No chains, no-go and you get turned back, snow tyres or not.

How old is your coolant? Poor coolant or coolant that is over 5 years old will cause overheating issues. It's worth getting a new thermostat and potentially a water pump whilst you are there (the MK3.5's are less prone to water pump failures but it still happens). Especially with Australia temperatures.

You need a leak down test on the injectors. But as with most MK3's they are all getting to an age where ALL FOUR INJECTORS need to be replaced. Don't replace just one.... because you will get failures on others very shortly afterwards. I know it's expensive but it will keep the car running for another 100k miles.

Tony, I've no idea about with a "smart" (they're not) phone or other "smart" (they're not) portable device but on my PC if you put the cursor over Captain Sisko's name at top left corner of post you get a drop-down that shows he lasted visited the site 2 January (this year) so it was worth the go.

IMO? Co2 test? Anyway, the CO2 test came back positive, meaning the liquid changed from blue to green.

@paulski I take it that you've been lucky and never changed your brake light bulbs or front fog light bulbs ? 😁. I can confirm that it's to undo the 2 torx screws that you need to remove on each tail light to access the rear bulbs. On some models - such as mine - you also need the tool to undo the bulb holder cover. There should also be a silver springy thing with a hook to pull off the rubber covers that cover the two torx screws that hold the tail light in place.

Unfortunately, it seems that they did! I've tried to pull it out with pliers but all I've succeeded in doing is snapping off bits of plastic. I guess I'm going to have to take a hammer to it and then somehow get all the bits out.

If you go for a 15" with 185/60/15 or 195/55/15 it will be very near the same size as 215/45/16 assuming the 16" has these tyres. https://tiresize.com/comparison/ Alasdair

Not sure but I did my sons fabia and bought this which helped enormously. It sits in the side channels and you can raise and lower engine and gearbox seperately. Works great as long as you have channels in wings. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChsSEwjb1rWHroOSAxV5iFAGHcBNHOIYACICCAEQFRoCZGc&co=1&ase=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsY3LBhCwARIsAF6O6XjzYwXVTFwr1LWAVHd8RQBvXQcGdLm9Gzd_avKN-B-uAcaQ9kmwb_8aAlNHEALw_wcB&cid=CAASJeRoMaY2NNPXSJu2L-b0mC-ZjaxY1WUuL4xLz8st-J3-0UkMfS8&cce=2&category=acrcp_v1_33&sig=AOD64_1qY7M9wwqELE-L7oSljMj4hoBeOQ&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwi1jLCHroOSAxWxWEEAHeTaFn4Q9aACKAB6BAgIEB4&adurl=

Just enjoy it. Mine is 13 years old and has had no issues over the period. Everything still works like new and is now on 72k. My brother-in-law when he owned a Yeti was always asking to drive my Roomster. He has a Scala now.

There is no power under 1500 rpm when the turbo kicks in. For example, I fettle the throttle while in second gear on an approach to a roundabout see a gap, put throttle down and nothing until the revs reach 1500 rpm then it yanks you forward. Nothing is wrong with the engine just a characteristic of power delivery. I change down to first gear for instant acceleration. Adapted to this since I picked the car from new. I know yours is auto but engine must behave the same. I had a Fiat Multipla 1600 petrol and yes that was more responsive on the throttle as Fiats are.

Im not sure where you are if you have restrictions on what bulbs you can use, there’s no E marked LED DS3 so illegal to use on cars in UK, will pass MOT though. If you don’t care about that then I’d give these a go https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/led-full-beam/products/led-d3s-dipped-beam-unit

To anyone reading this in future, FAI kit TCK289 does fit the 1999 Felicia 1.3 50 kW engine and matches part number 6U0198026A as recommended above. And my engine does indeed seem to be running OK despite all the metal shavings, fingers crossed it stays that way!

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ Or skoda-parts.com

With the short trips you do I don't think this is anything to worry about. If the petrol smell was there at the end of a long trip then it would be cause for worry. The TSi engine has a cold start function with might be slightly over-fuelling the engine during start-up. The excess petrol can then mix with the oil and get into the sump. Also the engine has the ability to operate in 2 cylinder mode, this could also give rise to fuel being injected that is not burnt on occasion. If you are worried ask for the dealer to do a diagnostic scan and report any DTC's (They will probably charge you.)

It’s not pink, so I don’t think it’s got any coolant in it. It’s very humid here at the moment (January in Brisbane, Australia) and very hot, so AC is on all the time. It’s still cooling beautifully, but is producing gallons of condensate which is pouring into the floor. I can’t see any water coming out underneath the Occy, so I’m pretty sure the drain is clogged. But because I can’t see the drips, I don’t know where the drain is.

Yep mentioned that one above, not sure we hate it £2k

I did find this in another post. I'm hoping the Australian dealership just went on the first paragraph of official documentation without taking RHD into consideration. We'll see. "I looked at the official documentation of the heating system in Octavia and concluded that cause of the fault must be a damaged V428 module (front air distribution flap control motor) or some mechanical problem with the flap. The service manual says that on LHD cars, the dashboard must be removed for repair. In RHD vehicles access to the V428 servo motor is quite easy, because it is placed on the same side as LHD vehicles... and it means, that you should remove glovebox and you can get access to problematic part."

I bought the car with the oil change already done so it should have only 3100 miles on it I didn’t smell the dipstick just the engine cap I haven’t top up the coolant since buying didn’t look like it needed it as the temperature never went about 90* for the coolant Yes the engine light is is off after I start the engine

Skoda Servicing is Air Filter @ 6 years / 60,000 miles. & many do not even check it. Pollen / Cabin Filter is every 2 years. So if the Air Filter and the Pollen Filter get changed every 3 years then good. Nest if normal Servicing had the Air Filter looked at every service.

Expansion tank level looking unchanged, and a moderate 'pschutt' of pressure release when opened this morning. Chain elongation fault code had returned since last cleared. 1 Fault Found: 18723 - Chain Elongation P150D 00 [01101101] - - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 266043 km Date: 2029.14.24 Time: 12:08:37 Engine speed: 2531.00 /min Normed load value: 28.6 % Vehicle speed: 103 km/h Coolant temperature: 92 C Intake air temperature: 20 C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 13.913 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Timing deviation after chain replacement: intake bank 1: 1.56 Timing deviation after other repairs: intake bank 1: 0.00 Timing deviation: current value intake bank 1: 5.93 Chain elongation: no. of valid initial values: intake bank 1: 5 Readiness: 0000 0100 Think I might acquire a spare engine and work on it to be ready for a quickish transplant if required. If only I had plenty of space. ☹️ I have acquired the chain repair kit 03F198158B at what seems like a bargain price of <£120 from a local dealership. Includes chain, cam and crank sprockets, guide rails, tensioner and all screws and bolts; but now unsure if it would be a poor investment of time and effort to use this on the current engine. Anyone know what, if anything is different in the complete CBZB engine for an automatic versus a manual transmission car? My favourite, low-mileage complete one currently on ebay is from an auto. Edit: researching the above question, flywheel is different, but tends to be un-included in spare engines I've seen. Then some bits of the breather system seem different, but not a lot else.

The dealer is always an option. The OTA update requires that Skoda have a contract in place with at least one mobile operator in your region. Note: does not matter if your mobile phone connects to your provider, the car is capable of connecting on its own in some territories and Skoda pays for the data download to the car. If the car cannot connect then the little world symbol in the infotainment will either not be present or will be grey and not white. Also if no OTA available only the dealer will know if an update is needed. Your car has no way of knowing if it can't communicate with the big computer in Germany. (OK you can also look at software version and ask if is current one.)

Regardless of the fact that at your mileage and age it doesn't need doing what your mechanic has told you would make me run a mile and ensure he never got near my vehicle. It is TOTALLY INCORRECT!

I would suggest not relying on the sensor - IMO, nothing is a substitute for regular checks of the stick.

Hi Thanks for that, I’d actually came across that site so knowing someone has used it I’ll have a look again Cheers

Can't directly help with the part numbers but can recommend trying www.skoda-parts.com for these sort of small components. They are a Czech mail order company. Pricing is always significantly lower than UK Skoda main dealers even taking into account delivery charges. Last time I used them, parts arrived next working day using standard less than a tenner delivery! Very good value as long as you stick below the 130 odd quid limit to avoid custom charges, below that the price you see on the website is the total you pay. They also offer option for cheap Chinese, quality EU OEM and genuine VAG for many parts to suit your budget. Plus they have native English speaking UK based agent who is really helpful and knowledgeable and will I'm sure be able to confirm correct part numbers for your car if you confirm VIN (or you can search for car specific parts from website): Patrick Rice sales representative e [email protected] t +44 20 8089 8075

I don't know if this will help but on one of my Roomsters (same setup), I had to sit in the back seat and shove it back with some force before the mechanism would allow me to lift the seat out. But that was only with the rear seats in their original positions.

That was just the ABS kicking in I think. Did it feel like the pedal was vibrating harshly underfoot? As with any VW group car of this era; probably a good idea to check the brake servo vacuum hose for cracks at the junctions of the hard plastic sections. Edit: and check your tyre pressures, MOT doesn't.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Baby-Boa-Strap-Wrench-Adjustable/dp/B00096JDJY Might help. Thanks. AG Falco

My reading of your post is that both you and your wife will be sad to see the Yeti go - and having owned mine since 2013 I can well understand why. I'm now familiar with the sill height issue - my wife, who also has a problem with her back, can only just clear the sill and a friend who frequently travels with us once seated has to lift her leg for her foot to clear the sill. Whilst I'm not yet at the point of considering parting with the Yeti I have been interested in the problems you have been having in finding a suitable replacement. And this lead me to wonder whether it is solely the accessing issue or whether there are other reasons that for you mean it may be the time to make the change; after all with a 15 year old car that day will come. For me when considering a change the sill height will I'm sure be a consideration but also the driving position - the high seats makes getting in and out easy - and the comfort of the seats; I've had cars where after an hour or so a break has been essential to relieve back pain. All of this leads me to wonder whether, if it suited you, there would be a way to practically address you wife's problem so you could delay making a decision and see if anything else comes on the market that meets your needs. At the risk of seeming to have finally lost the plot (and some would say that ship sailed some time ago) would a low step help your wife in (and out?) of the car, something that could be easily stowed in the boot or behind the seat? The other possibility that occurred to me, watching my friend lifting her leg to swing her foot into the car (she doesn't seem to have a problem getting out) would be some sort of strop that would help your wife lift her foot without putting unnecessary strain on her back. Again, at the risk of being considered "different", these are made as dog tugs but the larger sizes could be wide enough to easily get a foot in and out and long enough without having to bend and hurt her back whilst helping to lift the foot. Realistically a new car may be the only option but perhaps something to think about even to help over the next couple of months or so whilst waiting for the replacement car - they are around £5-£10 in the usual places. If you do move on from the Yeti I'll be sorry to see you go but then on the positive side I'll be one step closer to being the longest serving member on this forum still with his original Yeti.

I've not seen removable lenses on a car headlight for decades. Here's the "wheelhouse" diagram. Just keep taking screws out until you can get it off.