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Just an update, following an independent assessment one of the injectors was found to be leaking.

It will probably be the flap motor that has failed. Connecting up a scanner (VCDS or ODBEleven) will give you the codes to confirm. Its a relatively easy fix. Common fault. Other things to check: make sure you have removed the Silica bag from the header tank and if the coolant looks a horrible sludgy brown colour- i.e. not pink, it is also possible that the silica bag has burst and has blocked up the cabin heat exchanger.

Like others have said, you need to verify this, otherwise of course it won't make sense. Fill to correct level, drive 1000km and recheck. Id suggest the garage didn't fill enough. Don't bother speculating on oil usage until you verify the actual usage, by filling and checking yourself.

All done, renewed both rear brake pipes (solid and flexi) while doing the work, that's a full overhaul of suspension over the last 12 months so hopefully good for another few years 🤞

A nice thing about the 1.6 cr engine with dpf is the low emissions, which results in just a thin grey covering at the tail pipe. If yours was burning oil it would have a thick black coating. What does yours have?

I also got reply from Škoda support, but like the others, it seems generic.

That's simply not true... Rather than use the full Europe data, choose one of the subsets that best match you usage. ECE 1, 5 and 6 all contain the UK https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/537730-amundsen-mib2-map-updates-20262027/

We've had a very busy month and driven nearly 2000 miles with no further pressure loss from that tyre. I can only think that the valve didn't seat properly after I first checked the pressure then sealed again once the tyre was reinflated.

cross compatible on: Skoda Columbus (Mib2H), Seat Navi Plus (Mib2H), VW Discover Pro (Mib2H), Audi MMI Navigation Plus (Mib2H) Porsche PCM4.0 (Mib2H) started by @Mohrhuhn https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535959-columbus-map-update-2026-mib2-high/#findComment-5995662 tested by @langers2k & @Tell # ECE 14.7 GB Version: V03.959.823.TS 450 ECE 2026-2027 DevVersion: P450_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q3.25 Škoda portal: https://updateportalmaps.blob.core.windows.net/maps/HIGH2_P450_EU_202625.zip Files inside: 2025.10.08 Downloadable: 2026.02.05 Published: 2026.--.-- # Rest of World 16 GB - ======= coverage ======= # EU Albania*, Andorra, Austria, Belarus*, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina*, Bulgaria*, Croatia, Cyprus*, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia*, Finland, France, Germany, Gibraltar, Great Britain, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo*, Latvia*, Liechtenstein, Lithuania*, Luxembourg, Malta, Moldova*, Monaco, Montenegro*, Netherlands, Northern Macedonia*, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania*, Russia*, San Marino, Serbia*, Slovakia, Slovenia*, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey*, Ukraine*, Vatican City * partially # ROW Argentina*, Australia, Bahrain, Botswana*, Brazil*, Brunei*, Chile*, Indonesia*, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lesotho*, Malaysia, Mexico*, Mozambique*, Namibia*, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines*, Qatar, Reunion*, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Swaziland*, Thailand*, Turkey*, United Arab Emirates * partially ======= instruction ======= 1. download 7z/zip archive from direct link 2. extract content to SD Card or USB 3. insert memory device into slot of Columbus 4. start of update usually is offered automatically, manually can be found under Navi-> Settings !!! note for MAC users -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/452002-direct-download-links-for-ece-20182019-maps/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5095042 couple of potential questions are answered in previous posts: Columbus Maps 2026 Columbus Maps 2025/2026 Columbus Maps 2025 Columbus Maps 2024/2025 Columbus Maps 2024 Columbus Maps 2023/2024 Columbus Maps 2023 Columbus Maps 2022/2023 Columbus Maps 2022 Columbus Maps 2021/2022 Columbus Maps 2021 Columbus Maps 2020/2021 Columbus Maps 2020 monthly POI's collection files downloading from X-o-m-k-a's blog

First post here! I've been reading a lot of the old posts regarding leaky sunroofs. With the headliner down, no leak goes unnoticed. The [sunroof] drains were backing up and spilling water over onto the passenger seat - FIXED. Water was seeping through tiny gaps in the plastic underneath the sunroof - FIXED (tiger seal). Now, whilst stationary, the sunroof doesn't show any signs of leaking; however, once you turn a corner, a stream of water ****es all over your head - or, if you're lucky, it'll hit the passenger. I'm wondering if there's some sort of seal that is missing on mine/deteriorated? The drains aren't clogged at all, I can pour any amount of water and watch it flush down nicely. It seems the water is flowing somewhere else and then sitting there until it can slosh over during a drive. I've tried to take as many pictures as I can, from various angles. Thank you in advance!

Thanks for that it will greatly assist when I get my replacement struts hopefully arriving tomorrow will let you know how it goes

Another job done on the interior repairs. Replacing the hand brake switch which had a chip in the chrome. £30 from AliExpress and a 5 min task to swap it. Also realise how shiny the old one had got from use. Before After Just waiting on deliver of LED tail light and fog light bulbs, and pedal covers then I’m pretty much done for now…

I tried to crack a line at the back but my spanners are too crap, after work I went and picked up a couple of 'correct ones' that wrap further round and just have a slit so you can get them over the brake line. I took the cap off the master cylinder in prep to let the system drain (the fluid is decades old) and found that someone had popped the level sensor thingy out of the cap so it was actually open to the air all this time, hygroscopically poisoning the fluid. I've managed to pop that back in so it'll be ok for the future when it has fresh juice. Later on I was watching a bit of old telly and felt a bit seen:

1) I have removed the back seat. For me, it's modular, so I can just unhook one seat and remove it. 2) I have removed the handle. Slide the plastic cover from one side with the help of a plastic wrench in order to avoid plastic scratches and damage. The same for the other side. 3) I have removed the lock carrier. Just pull it and it should unclip. No screws there. 4) Remove the bottom C-pillar trim panel. This one was a bit tricky. I have managed just to unhook the upper side and slide it enough to access the screws for the next part. 5) Now, all screws should be accessible to remove the luggage compartment side trim panel. After unscrewing and unhooking it, you can slide it over a seatbelt (as you probably don't want to remove that either). 6) The last part is removing the trim panel of pillar C. After unscrewing and unclippingthe lower parts, I couldn't remove it from the headline or sky, as we call it in my country, so I just used my inflatable bag to expand it enough so my hand could reach the connector. After this is done, you can access the connector, the only one there, and simply unhook it and pull out the defective strut. You can easily find out how struts are removed from the knobs (hint: just pull the wire). Connector: One picture summed up the order:

Hi @StariBluzer Sorry to confuse you - just realised that you may be based outside the UK and I have mentioned my reading incorrectly in meters. My readings are in yards and always have been so I am still zooming down to 30 yards, or 27.4 meters.

...all done, but had to exchange the loop connectors for ones with a 6mm hole. I only cut off about a centimetre as there wasn't much slack to play with; scrubbed up the end, then used flux and solder to reduce oxidation Getting them onto the cable itself was a struggle but they crimped up good. Let's see how long the fusebox lasts this time

Five days in, and the app is a significant improvement over the Kodiaq. Everything worked apart from Remote Park Assist. ( moving the car using the app whilst stood outside the car ) The QR code which appeared in set up wasn’t recognised by my phone. Tried all the usual - delete and reinstall the app, factory reset the infotainment- and still couldn’t get the app to load the Remote Park Assist screen. It turned out to be the paranoid owner’s fault 😳 . I had the app ‘ allow location’ setting on ‘only when using app’ changed it to ‘always’ and it loaded up no problem and worked perfectly. Currently on a sport’s injury clinic’s car park, waiting for wounded footballer grandson to finish his treatment - whilst walking about following my driverless car around as it goes back and forth. Yes I know it’s childish, yes, I know I’ll probably never use the function in anger, but it is amusing. First long journey tomorrow, so it will be a chance to take a view on the ride/road noise of the 19’s and try dropping the tyre pressure as advised by @Novichok .

The car is with them at the moment. I'll call them tomorrow and see what can be done

Plenty of info on YouTube 2023 Skoda Superb service light reset

Thanks Now the real work begins, namely to get main dealer to accept diagnosis and replace injector as a goodwill gesture.

Reckon so. Cant think of anywhere else that the oil would be coming from especially with the bubbles in coolant in your video. Hopefully the head is good and a new gasket will solve the problem. Might be worth getting head checked for cracks if your removing it. Alasdair

On my sons MK1 its just a case of undoing the torx screws (cant remember how many but there are a few) then it may need a bit of bending/wiggling and it should come out. If yours has an undertray it may be attached to it as well. Keep an eye for any screws you may have missed. Some will go into plastic grommets in body but the lower ones may have spring clips they screw into. They can get dislodged so make sure they are all back in the right positions before refitting. Alasdair

Its correct - spend £50 you don't have on a part that is quality/correct/fits, you get enjoyment for your expenditure. Spend it on something that doesn't work, or is no good or you never use it, and its just a pure waste of £50.

Is that oil or debris? If its oil then reckon its the HG. If its debris then it may be coming from intercooler. Alasdair

Don't worry Briskoda people I have found that the oil separator located below the water pump is just a lump of plastic, no moving parts, so I have left the old one in place. Don't imagine it ever needs replacing unless it gets smashed. Thanks.

Just a warning - you will not get any support from forum members if you do choose to use any pirated device.

Yes - I agree with @langers2k ; if you stick with the 16G card, download ECE Zone 6 which should hopefully cover everything you need.

I'm running 245/40r19 tyres on 19x8.5 ET35 rims. Lowered 25mm on Eibach Pro-kit springs, factory DCC shocks. No issues at all.

@Tell right, non working links were marked with "- " at beginning and by most grayed color new forum engine has lost wider choice list ☹️

I just re-read the OP posting; whilst there are no warning lights, what we don't have is a proper scan of the car. Its all very well saying, there are no errors, but all cars will come with issues and dealerships (often IMHO) don't read the codes. Can you get an ODBEleven dongle onto the car, read the codes and post them up here pls?

Yes and sods law, it's just started to make a scraping noise! At least I know the right one to buy.

It was the report of smoke behind the dash. A resistor pack can die but will fail open circuit(low fan speeds not then working). A motor can fail (consuming too much current)/ or brushes wearing out (arcing) - this MIGHT generate smoke from the motor and/or resistor pack if in use as it'll be in series to the motor. To generate smoke etc you need highish current.

I think @MartiniB knows that. On the links above, it's shaded differently, at least in Firefox. That's pending those being found. Mind you, the shading could be because I've already hit those links. But yes, we know only the European ones have been identified. The Škoda portal if you go in with your Škoda VIN shows you the links that they are supporting, that is how they were originally identified since it suddenly showed the next map release and those are the file links.

Hey thanks! However I'm aware of the alternator cable getting hot and resistance build-up, just wondered if the cable can be cleaned up at the alternator end and if there's a specific resistance I should be aiming for. I' should receive the fusebox tomorrow so intend to risk snipping alternator cable and re-crimping the loop connector. I got some 16mm w/8mm hyole ones, just hope they're up to the job. These crimps didn't state their accepted current, I'm just gonna go for it... if there's enough cable to pull up, that is. If the issue is common it wouldn't surprise me if it's been done ten times before by previous owners! It's crazy that the various fusible links are so close together and their high-current connectors are a bit exposed if you ask me. Do the real skoda hardcore re-route these to ensure a more reliable electrical system? The amount of diagnostic weirdness these fuseboxes and their connectors can cause blows my mind

Not at all but it’s a defence!

I hope the res delete is not just a straight pipe... unless u don't mind drone.

Yeah they are the ones i fitted (Bosch) i just replaced 1,2 and 4. the sensor one is around £120 (Skoda will charge around £200) that was 3 years ago, so far touch wood, its been fine, i used a ceramic grease on the threads, 10nm, an airline to clean around the well, last thing you want is crap getting into the engine, a can of compressed air wil do the job, no1 is to the far left as you look down on the engine. They are at the front of the engine, easy to see and get the engine hot first before removing, you'll need a deep 10mm 1/4 drive socket, 12mm for the no3. I would buy a torque wrench, rather than guess.

Hi and welcome to Briskoda @jackel 👋

The Tunnel cover cost me about £15 but then I stick grandkids in the back. Stops them arguing which one is in the front. The rear AC outlets are worth it. They are a push fit, but one has come out twice in a year, so I just used a spot of glue to hold it this time.

@derryvolgie Welcome to the forum. Is there a Service History showing items serviced as per schedule. Spark Plugs replaced, Air Filter, Brake Fluid etc etc. Tyres all OK and windscreen not too chipped?

Collected yesterday, 100 miles in, all good. Tomorrow will be spent delving into settings, sub menus, and hoping the app performs better than it did on the Kodiaq the Superb has replaced ……. We’ll see. 🤞

There has been some past BRISKODA discussions about the "component protection active" message. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?&q=%22component%20protection%20active%22&search_and_or=or This 2022 BRISKODA discussion was in the Kodiaq Mk 1 forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/504653-component-protection-active-in-infotainment-columbus-92/ and included this final comment Component protection is designed to prevent (deter) people from stealing head units. Each unit is coded to a particular vehicle and this message will come up if a head unit has been put in a different vehicle. But sometimes these highly computerised cars just like to do random things at random times for no apparent reason before reverting back to normal I notice that the 'disconnecting/reconnecting the battery' ploy was mentioned in the discussion as a way to get rid of the message, so you could try that to see if it works with your car (and, possibly, might also correct the 01.01.1970 problem). On the other hand, if you plan to involve a Skoda dealer with sorting out the problems you are having with your car's display-screen, it might be best to let them investigate/diagnose the faults, rather than trying to do it yourself.

Ed Miliband MP is supposedly going to stop Wind Farm owners gaming the system and getting very well compensated for not generating electricity that the National Grid is incapable or transmitting or it being used. We will see. It is the Non National Owned National Grid that is getting 'Money for old rope' or actually paid UK Tax Payers money to improve an out of date system while they send huge profits to offshore economies.

have u read this discussion? Both rear fog lights, How-to GUIDE! - Skoda Superb Guides - BRISKODA

Both cheaper on Autodoc, £12 and £104 respectively plus delivery, Bosch and Beru. GSF is £14 they don't list no2.

At least the 'plugs are easy to do on these, i used a compressor to clean around the glow plug, get the engine hot first and they all unscrewed really easily. I had no2 fail, i replaced all but the sensor one... Autodoc by far the cheapest for the sensor plug.... GSF did the Bosch ones for less than 30% the price Skoda wanted, only difference was the GSF ones didn't have VW printed on them!

Yet to see a big test with all the premium brands, as most on compare a handful due to time and cost. But after reading (and the videos and comments) from multiple articles, here is my take on all season tyres (Currently, July 2025) I originally posted this in a Superb thread, but copying it here, as should be easier to find, and help those with other models. I have used all seasons on our second car, and nowadays on my daughter's car for at least 8 years. They have moved on a lot in that time. There is not that much between the premium all season brands, it is marginal, (typically less than 4% difference). In tests one might be better at 2c in rain, but another better at 10c, one better at cornering, but not so good at braking etc. In practice, what is available in your required size, and the prices being charged (and prices go up and down regularly) might determine which you pick. You won't go wrong with any of these : Bridgestone Turanza all season 6 Continental all season contact 2 Goodyear vector all season gen 3 Michelin Cross Climate 2 (there is a new 3, but not commonly on sale yet) Nokian season proof 2 Pirelli cinturano all season SF3 Hankook have a new Ion flex climate (so new, not seen it in tests), replaces Kinergy 4S Could also consider these : Vredestein Quatrac or Quatrac Pro+ Falken euro all season AS220 Uniroyal all season expert 2 Dunlop all season 2

Sounds like the Octavia suffers from the similar bad reflector design like the Roomster did.....however when everybody else has Xenons & LED lights, halogens pale (literally) by comparison. In the UK for dipped & main beam you have to keep the exact bulb type for the reflector (as per lighting regs & MOT)...so your reflector is for Halogens...so you have to fit halogens...you can't fit LED (drop-ins) for those bulbs, but you can for all other external bulbs! Looks like H7 for dipped & H15 for main. Selection of H7 here, I only use Osram or Phillips:- H7 Bulbs | Upgrade Car, Van & Motorcycle H7 Bulbs (autobulbsdirect.co.uk) Osram Night Breaker in +100% has a 1yr warranty.....their 150%+ & 200%+ only have a 6month warranty ...all three are road legal... Phillips do several bulbs...again in 100+ or 200%+ Powerbulbs also has them:- Sale On Now I PowerBulbs UK Ignore the LED drop ins...you'll get pulled on your next MOT as not road legal in UK for dipped/main beam...

Well, yes, but needs must. I don't want to hit a walker on a dark verge.