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For the first time I had the confirmation screen that updates had been installed today:

Hi, just a quick follow up, here is how the 225/55 R17 winter tyres look on the car. No problems at all with tyre pressure monitoring system. All working fine.

Also. You have no idea how much this annoyed me. Not any more!

Eating just now, but it sounds like you need a repair to driver's side motor module. I will message you shortly.

Had same on old auto volvo. There was an extra oil cooler available but not fitted as it was aftermarket towbar. You may be able to upgrade the oil cooler fitted. Have seen some that state number of cooling ribs etc. Alasdair

I think I read something before about an additional oil cooler being fitted from the factory with towbars. So if it’s a retrofitted towbar it likely won’t have one. Worth a google to check if one can be retrofitted?

Mine is a 2023/4 SE L and has the Amundsen and a virtual cockpit. The display is all configurable so it can be circular dials but i prefer a digital speed. (revs are along the top). BTW I prefer the Amundsen to the Columbus as I have two physical knobs for volume and the menu scrolling which I prefer.

Hi there, Not sure what country you're from, as in EEU there are cheaper and still good options. I have 2 Mio dashcams and a DDPAI. I can recommend both, though I would go with Mio, if it's your first dashcam, because: cost: cheaper, value for money, does a lot for what you pay (~50 to 100 EUR, mines were ~75 EUR each) user-friendly: easy to install, accepts a variety of cards (though high endurance are recommended, I ran even a regular cheap 8 GB one and had zero issues with it), simple menu, easy to remove the card. features: some have even wireless connection, image quality is very good, takes even 256 GB card. DDPAI looks better, is a bit more expensive, hard to remove the card and it cannot be removed, as opposed to Mio, both can be removed. Newer Mio models have the support that cannot be removed, but the camera can still be removed. Two things though: high end products: not worth the money; yes, the image may be slightly better, but unless you really put your money (200-250 EUR) into a very good action camera, usually the ones for bikes are better, it will not capture all that you expect it to capture (license plates for incoming traffic, details at night, objects in direct light/reflecting light) simply because they are not meant for that and the FPS is not enough. about using a dashcam: the best way to use it is to have a decent quality one, set for highest FPS that it can ran, even if that lowers the resolution (4K usually runt at 30FPS, while you're better at 2K and 60 FPS); when something happens, say out loud the details, like license plate, car model, color, driver details, etc, as they are captured by your eyes and stored by the card, while later you will struggle to remember these details, and this makes the camera not capturing the license plate less relevant. Regarding the USB-C connector in the center console (rear view mirror), I saw some discussions here that it will not always power up the camera with just the cable, so you should consider using a small adapter. So from USB-C port from the car, even if you buy an USB-C camera, you might need this adapter, like in the post above. Try first without, but keep in mind, should that not work. Hope it helps. Cheers!

Hi all, new user here. Had an Octavia Sportline and loved it, now got an Octavia Vrs and love it even more!

It's essential that a vehicle specific wiring kit is used that can integrate with the car's Canbus network, and that its coded. Some of the cheaper options use generic wiring kits instead where the car is not aware that a caravan / trailer has been connected. This leads to issues where the parking and blind spot detectors are not switched off.

The Skoda emblem has its own number, 06A 103 940K, but the silvery bit it sits in doesn't seem to, even though it comes off easily. I binned mine years ago when it seemed to be rattling. Scrapyard seems the obvious choice to find a cheap replacement.

I believe all 1.5 TSI Karoqs have ACT. https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/innovation-and-technology/10-tips-that-may-help-you-save-fuel/attachment/act_orig/

All 1.5tsi have ACT

I used these and it plugged into the USB by the mirror. Works a treat👍

Installed wireless charger and AC vent covers and discovered rear AC vent adjusters broken. Also continued playing about with a few bits of coding with CarScanner -Undertaking prevention turned off -Auto Unlocking of doors when shifting to P enabled -Throttle pedal algorithm changed to "Direct" - I assume this is similar setting to changing it to "Audi" with VCDS. This has made such a difference to the driving feel of the car. Now feels like the accelerator pedal is actually attached to the engine! Full details and pics on the project thread:

Mine is working fine with the 2630 software. No issues until now.

Have a look at the coolant package as a whole. I think the TDI190's have a larger cooler group in general - I know the coolant rad is larger and I suspect the oil cooler is also larger.

Thanks for your response varaderoguy!

I suggest you get an SD card for the car. Look for part: 5L0051236C or part 5E0051236G

Okay - you are looking for part: 2Q0121321A - something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153794174439 This is an OE cap. Its available at any Skoda, VW, Audi or Seat dealer.

oh dear - I think your vehicle needs the uprated radiator that is found on the TDI190's. The TDI150's got a smaller radiator and whilst it isn't a problem if you aren't towing, its becomes a problem that the extra heat generated from the engine cannot be cooled quick enough with the smaller rad. Upgrade your cooling package to that of a TDI190 and your problems will go away. If you go for a towbar via Skoda, the installation costs include a new radiator for this precise issue.

Same problem here also! mines a vrs on a 23plate. Noticed that my headlight was starting to condensate at the start of winter, only noticed the crack when I topped up my washer fluid. Took to my local dealer under warranty, but has since been rejected. Their respose was the headlight has already been damaged! I've contacted Skoda UK on Twitter/X thismorning to see what they have to say about it. Aftering reading the other posts on here I dont hold much hope for a easy outcome, but will give it ago. Seems like such an obvious defect using poor quality thin plastic on the upper housing and continuous pressure and vibrations caused by the bonnet....very frustrating to be disregarded like this as valued customers and to be made out like you've caused the damage!!

Ok managed to get the option list through the dealer

No reason there should be TPMS issues. You just reset the TPMS when you adjust pressures or change tyres. Then reset or check and rest periodically.

Hi, Do you have the possibility to make and post a VCDS scan?

Eleven months on from my last post here (at 56789 miles) passenger got this for me in case I missed a round number… … then I did miss it 🙄 Doh! 😩

It would appear to be the case - try swapping the lock barrel from the other door, it's probably the easiest way to check - certainly easier than removing/refitting the locking mechanisms! By the way, after my son had spent hours peering at the Haynes manual instructions, I found the Skoda Workshop manual - much better! Chapter 57-8 onwards.

For me there was two new notifications after completion today stating the installed components. However, I can’t see any differences in the UI. Hopefully the answer from Skoda regarding issue solved is true. Let’s see tommorrow…

Factory item for sensing damp / H2O. A common question / thread / subject for many a year now.

Well mystery solved, more like two mysteries! It’s the crocodile clip charger attachment for my CTEK chargers. Must have knocked it into the aux belt area or left it under the bonnet and it’s found its way there. As soon as I saw the adaptor it was a “So that’s where it went!!” moment, been looking for it for a while as it was on the missing list. Aux belt was show a bit of wear but nothing dramatic, but new one now in place. Thanks for everyone’s help. 👍👍

Under the blind buttons on the left and right side are screws. After removing the screws you can pull it out. Its a bit tricky to remove those buttons..

VIOFO A329 front & rear, HK4 hardwire kit (to enable parking mode), VIOFO Bluetooth remote control. CPL on both cameras. Front camera is mounted high up on the passenger side, can only just see it behind the rear view mirror from the driver’s seat. I briefly installed a VIOFO A139 Pro on the drivers side and powered it from the USB-C socket in the mirror console but I found it a bit obtrusive there. I’ve used various VIOFO cameras over the last 10yrs, build quality is excellent and never had any problems with them. The very first one I bought 10yrs ago is still working fine in my wife’s car.

Nextbase.. no problems. USB cable.. right angle ends, 20cm length, USB C - USB Mini ..

Ummm ... Some dogs like to do the driving

At 11 volts, your battery is less than 10% SOC! This will probably be the cause of your random alarm activations. What is the alternator output when the engine is running?

Just over £1k Cost as much as it is a faff doing it after it has left the production line. Screen needed to be sourced from Skoda, fitted by a separate screen specialist and then coded to be controlled by the infotainment screen by a further 3rd party firm. We decided we really wanted them despite the cost. One of the cars we got rid of when we bought the Karoqs had it and the other didn't. We considered it a must have in any new (to us) car and couldn't find used Karoqs with the Winter Plus Pack (incl the screen) already fitted. They both had heated front seats and steering wheels fitted when built. VED for our cars is £190 and when it could have been/be several £100s more

My wife and I had retro-fitted heated screens fitted to both our Karoqs Expensive but wouldn't be without them. Has been a <insert Deity of choice> send for both of us recently. I think the point above about VED is a good one and the reduced car price will reduce the VED offsetting the cost of the screen if you went down that route

According to te brochure, heated screen is part of the 'Winter Package Plus' which is standard on the Sportline Edition and optional on the SEL Edition https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6 edit: @cnc beat me to it

Well that stuff is magic! Mark completely gone. Took a few coats to clear it completely but I reckon I used about 20mls of the 300ml Bottle to achieve it! Thanks @Lee01 for the tip!

On some models you can set the wiper operation in the infotianment systems so it's timed intermittant rather than rain sensitve. I've seen the random wiper activation on other Skoda models as being a fault with the wiper stalk.

Collected yesterday, 100 miles in, all good. Tomorrow will be spent delving into settings, sub menus, and hoping the app performs better than it did on the Kodiaq the Superb has replaced ……. We’ll see. 🤞

It might be clutch fluid thats poor when warm or if the clutch is original at 160k maybe getting past it or perhaps slave/master not disengaging clutch fully when warm. As pointed out start with gear linkages and make sure selector parts on top of Gbox arent stiff or have too much play. Check the cast metal weight is secure on its spindle. Son in laws vw caddy haad worn out and was loose causing dodgy gear changes. Alasdair

May need the cable lengths adjusting to compensate for stretch. It is very easy to do as the method automatically sets the right length. Basically you lock the gear leaver in the cabin using a 5mm drill. Then pull and turn the locking pin near the selector mech under the bonnet. Last step is pull back the spring on the each of the two gear cable ends and then put them back again. This last action will put the cable end on at the right part of the cable. Before doing this easy adjustment, first look for slop and wear on all moving parts and replace as necessary. Many videos on youtube

Could be a gearbox linkage problem but definitely worth changing out the oil either way.

Without a Trade Card Halfords aren't the cheapest but provide a potentially convenient way of comparing the various connector formats with the ones on your car. Pop 'em off your car. Work your way along the rack checking the different models Definitely recommend Bosch as a good blade. Made a huge difference to my own MY22 and my wife's MY 23 cars.

hiec is not supported natively on Win10 or Win11. There is an add-on that for MS Photos that supports some heic variants, but you have to pay for it. I have a couple of apps that do support heic. However, most forums don't support that format. Your best bet is JPG and PNG

Don't know what you looked at but no new Karoq has the Bolero system & all have Virtual Cockpit. Only the entry level SE has the older looking Amundsen infotainment, everything else has the larger Columbus. Although Amundsen has its advantaged with more physical shortcuts & a real volume control. The shortcut buttons on Columbus are annoyingly out of reach for RHD.

Me too. It's an expensive system that has no huge benefits for me. I don't need expensive sensors on my winter tyres and can swap them myself. The system with ABS has proven effective on my 2014 Octavia several times detecting a leaking valve and nail in the tyre on separate occasions so I think it's quite effective. From an OEM point of view a system like this, where a good free alternative exists is a win-win from a cost save point of view. If a sensor costs $10 x4 and Skoda sells 100k Cars, deleting the sensor saves them $40m a year where they don't need to reduce the cost of the car for you as they still have the TPMS funding just using a different sensor.

Went full on doing all the prep stages before applying it, first using the product and I am very happy with the results.

Engine oil is a coolant, and the coolant is to bring the oil temperature down to nearer than that 10*oC or more difference. Is the Anti Freeze / Summer coolant / rust inhibitor AKA the coolant at the correct ratio / strength for your use / ambient temps? There is a reason some use Radiator Blinds / Screens in cold weather conditions. To speed up the heating of the coolant / engine / engine oil & to keep an efficient oil temperature.