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Hello all, That's my 2019 Skoda Octavia L&K away. Its been emotional. The car was sat on the driveway 99% of the time, so its time it went to a new home. I will be visiting less often, but that doesn't mean I will completely disappear. The thing that spooked me; it had a Skoda warranty and repaired as such, but air conditioning compressor had failed, and the front calliper had failed. That bill came to £2500 for Skoda Financial Services. Its almost a 7 year old car. Somebody will enjoy it - it will probably be advertised online soon. I've had a MK2 Octavia Scout [Barnie Rubble/Trouble], a MK3 Octavia Scout [Hewie], a MK3 Octavia VRS TSI 230 [Red Run], a MK3 VRS TDI190 [probably my favourite VRS - it sat on the autobahn for 12hrs doing 130mph all day - didn't miss a beat] a MK3 Octavia 4x4 VRS [less said on that one the better], a MK3 Octavia Scout TDI190 [Silver] and my Octavia L&K TSI190 [UJE]. I'm taking a break from Skoda ownership for now. I've also got a personalised numberplate for sale too.

A few from today. Thought the Great Tit was being optimistic!

@nta16 it’s a 2015 Fabia, so it’s approx 2000 miles a year. My partner doesn’t like changing her cars. In 40 years of driving this is only her 3rd car. We still own the first car (a 1983 Metro with 36,500 on the clock, still on the road taxed and mot’d but not in regular use). I run my cars to at least 100,000 miles, usually to around 150,000 miles, regular maintenance by a good trusted garage/mechanic is, as you say, the key to reliable low cost car ownership.

Reading the manual about resyncing keys is, IMO, about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike as I've found myself only yesterday.

Hi Paul, There is a cover over the lock on the driver's side door. It needs to be removed before you can unlock the door with the key. Just replace the battery in the remote (CR2025), but get a decent make rather than a cheap one off the internet. I use Varta, but Duracell etc. should be fine. Stuart

So, huge update here... ITS FIXED! I recieved the gateway module back this afternoon and put everything back as it should... started the car and everything seems to be working fine again! So it was definitely the gateway module that was knackered. The only lights on the dashboard now are the airbag light and the bulb warning light (i was expecting the bulb warning light as the levelling sensors are knackered) So all seems good now! Just need to try and reset the airbag light and sort the levelling sensors for the headlights, then get her booked in for MOT! HAPPY ROB 😁

I doubt its the timing chain/tensioner after less than two years unless it was a cheapo one that was fitted or wasnt fitted correctly. Still shouldnt rule it out though. Next time it happens try and locate roughly where its coming from. I use a length of hose with one end to ear and move other end around engine bay till the noise gets louder. It might be a bad fuel injector if your mpg is dropped. Difficult to say . Alasdair

I've been monitoring the ph level of the original coolant in my wife's July 2015 build VW Polo 1.2TSI as this should tie in with how the anti corrosion properties are "behaving", it was filled G13 at the factory and has no Silcate "boosting" package as probably VW did not consider that these small TSI engines would end up needing the Silcate levels boosting as there should never exist really high temperatures locally in their cooling systems to start degrading the G13, but I found that they were wrong there and the ph was heading towards being too acidic a lot quicker than the G13 in our older daughter's May 2019 build SEAT Leon Cupra that does have a Silicate "booster" in the coolant reservoir - okay that Leon Cupra, probably like some TDI with the exhaust gas cooler, can end up getting the G13 hot enough at certain points in the coolant system to start degrading the G13, and that Silicate booster seems to be still doing its intended task. I replaced the G13 with G12evo at the 10 year point in that Polo's life, using a coolant vacuum refill kit, a Draper version which cost a bit, I think that there are many (Chinese) copies out there for a lot less money and perfectly good for a DIYer to use now and again. When you look at the BASF specs for the old G12+, G12++, G13 and G12evo - they do tend to get called "long life" or "long service". When you look at the resellers version/offering for the same BASF based coolants, they all reckon that they should be replaced in 5 years - obviously that works well for their sales! I did the same for my old 2011 Audi S4 - it came from factory with G12 in it, it's coolant ph level seemed to be heading towards being acidic a lot slower than the G13 in the 2015 VW Polo, but I felt to need to replace it "just in case" - again using the Draper Coolant Vacuum Refill kit. Note:- even using the official workshop manual instructions, I found that you didn't get as much of the old coolant out as possible, if you only "drain and refit pipes - apply vacuum" once - old coolant appeared in the reservoir twice after applying a vacuum - so I opened the system up again and let more coolant out twice, I could have repeated that a few more times, but only only small quantities of extra old coolant dropped out each successive time - I did not have that issue with the 2011 S4 though - but it only had 2 coolant systems with few if any restrictions etc fitted like the 1.2TSI and other newer engines have.

Forgot to add, I just don’t find the manual very intuitive. It’s written, to me at least, in a rather strange way making some information puzzling rather than illuminating. By way of an example, the instructions for how to close the bonnet correctly are particularly bizarre! What ‘flaps’!?

It turns out it was something much simpler. The PCV valve wasn’t functioning properly and the GPF couldn’t regenerate. After replacing the valve, the issue resolved itself following a 20 km drive. Hope this helps someone else in the future. Cheers!

@sreten - interesting to see how it all goes for u with the hardware combo ur using. Just to clarify, with the fuel system - I was referring to upgrading the port injectors. The stock HPFP is fine, as well as the fuel pump. This upgrade will utilise stronger 1050cc injectors to improve the port injection, used at low and mid range power. The direct injectors, used at mid to high end range, is all good. Currently the car (mine is a FWD 220) is making 320hp 515Nm at the wheels power. I'm not sure how much more this will increase after the Powermax, but if it hits 400hp, I'll b happy.

The little red nugget has hit a milestone...

The attachment below is from the 06/25 brochure , The first attachment was from the 11/25 brochure so you should be ok

Hi Pete. Yes I've seen the videos. Just waiting for a break in the weather to attack the passenger door. Had the driver's door apart recently to fit one of your fixed window control modules. Windows still operating OK.

Perhaps they were 2025 models as they didn’t have a heated screen as part of the winter package

You should be okay , according to the latest brochure the Kodiak optional winter pack includes a heated front screen

Worked for me 🤷🏻‍♂️

Not sure, could help maybe. I believe the angle on OEM strut cable rubber is designed poorly, with an angle that creates unnecessary tension on the cables. I saw that some non-OEM replacements do not have that angle. So I think they thought it was a feature, but in the end turns out to be a bad design. E.g: OEM: Not OEM:

OK Dave, if you were a bit closer I would recommend East Yorkshire Retrofit as I have had some work done by them and the did a perfect job fitting a reverse camera, but would have liked the electric retracting towbar, but I guess the company in Poole will do the job right (hopefully at the right price) for you, Good luck

Glad it was a fairly simple fix. Definitly worth removing and cleaning up plus extra lube. Alasdair

Update; I've lubed and moved the linkage on Thursday and it's been fine since. I'm going to remove the linkage and give the pivots a good clean (if it ever stops raining...) Cheers @Alasdair1

When I bought my car, one of the keys wouldn't open the door. I changed the battery, but it still didn't work. I then read the manual (see above) and there is a procedure to re-sync the key to the car. There is a key slot in the door, but it is hidden under a cover. You need to put the key in it to re-sync IIRC.

Read the Manual?

Glad you got it fixed and hopefully airbag light will stay off once reset. Alasdair

Glad to hear that. Cheers 🍻

Its not even about spending the oil change money. Its about that the car has 20,000 km overdue of the oil, so I cannot know in what condition is the gearbox. Mind you, besides this car, I also checked one which was 161,000, so thats 40,000 km overdue.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530533-dash-cam-that-connects-to-rear-mirror-usb-c-port/#findComment-5924924 This is an earlier post of mine with pics of the A139 Pro fitted on the driver’s side. I’ll take pictures of the A329 and post them here later.

Hello hello! Yup, have done a successful key fob replacement when the key snapped off at the flip-point, another VAG group Easter egg, I discovered. And I’m about to do two more, as we need a second key for a new to us SEAT, and other half’s original Skoda key has broken in exactly the same way. Gimme a mo and I’ll be back with links to suppliers and videos.

I just got part number - 3Q0121205. If you ebay this loads come up! My car is a 2018 150tdi but they should be the same.

Did not quote any price for coolant change. Agree, have not seen coolant change interval on any VAG site yet, but have used online research. Contrary to some information out there, coolant is not 'for life' - it is not just the anti-freeze levels that can drop, there are anti-corrosion agents that deplete over time. Protection against corrosion in engine blocks is critical - especially in alloys.

Ask if there are any technical service bulletins relating to the issue. This means Skoda know of the problem and should, as a minimum, offer a goodwill gesture.

Annoyingly I've not long dropped a complete cover (including the centre bit) off at the tip. Mine was "repaired" using some really thick double sided tape to stop it going anywhere and/or rattling.

I have superb 2.0 tsi 272hp, opf version without MPI. Stock fueling is fine for 450+ HP. My goal was to go above stage 1, but keep car euro emissions compliant. Option to put downpipe without opf was not acceptable to me, that's why I decides to go for pmax and keep stock exhaust. We will see the end result soon. I installed everything by myself, tune will be done remotely using simos tools. I have one step colder sparkplugs, and I removed snow guard from the airbox. That's basically all the mods I have done. Inside I installed digital cluster, I didn't like old style analog dash, it's very ugly and outdated to me.

We can supply & fit a genuine electric folding towbar with a 2 year main dealer warranty and 13 pin electrics. The installation is recorded against the cars build data, it's the same towbar they install from the factory.

The Skoda emblem has its own number, 06A 103 940K, but the silvery bit it sits in doesn't seem to, even though it comes off easily. I binned mine years ago when it seemed to be rattling. Scrapyard seems the obvious choice to find a cheap replacement.

Also. You have no idea how much this annoyed me. Not any more!

A 5 second hold of setup button gets you into "Radio service mode" menu and in there is a versions information button: At the bottom of the versions info screen is the map version

@hubrad if you are fine with using phone in the craddle and you don't intend to use oem sat nav (for MIB2 maps were updated this month, for MIB1 unfortunatly new maps are not available since coupdl of years) and you are OK with featores of your MIB1 Amundsen then it does not make any sense to spend money on upgrading. Although for myslef Android AUto is must in a car... but it's my personal requiremnt.

Have a chat with @pab567 who can hopefully point you in the right direction.

Yes, but any new system will come with batteries and with export at 12p, it makes far more sense to burn gas and sell the electric these days. The cost of a diverter fitted is around £500-700. Even if you are saving 7p per kWh of gas (to allow for efficiency) it is 10000 units of gas. If you have one already, yes I’m sure it helps, but at present there is no point doing anything but exporting. That could of course change soon, but for now I couldn’t recommend buying one.

There is a hidden menu with all the version information. From recollection, you need to press and hold the SETUP button (lowest of 4 buttons on right) until the hidden menu appears. Will double check when go out to car in morning. To decode the map version try https://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Navigation_System_Maps Superb 2 Columbus is an RNS510 in disguise and so uses CY maps. The last end of life map release was V17 which for west europe maps shows as version 8557 in the columbus hidden menu. Think this was first available at end of 2019, certainly upgraded my maps for the last time with this version just before COVID kicked off

You might have to search the threads here for posts about parts and parts suppliers and see if they're still going or look for a suitable alternative. I assume (so could be wrong) want what I'd call an expansion tank but if you mean anything to do with the actual radiator there are those that can service and repair them (or there used to be just a few years back). Good luck.

Not available on SE , available as option on SEL, standard on Sportline

1) I have removed the back seat. For me, it's modular, so I can just unhook one seat and remove it. 2) I have removed the handle. Slide the plastic cover from one side with the help of a plastic wrench in order to avoid plastic scratches and damage. The same for the other side. 3) I have removed the lock carrier. Just pull it and it should unclip. No screws there. 4) Remove the bottom C-pillar trim panel. This one was a bit tricky. I have managed just to unhook the upper side and slide it enough to access the screws for the next part. 5) Now, all screws should be accessible to remove the luggage compartment side trim panel. After unscrewing and unhooking it, you can slide it over a seatbelt (as you probably don't want to remove that either). 6) The last part is removing the trim panel of pillar C. After unscrewing and unclippingthe lower parts, I couldn't remove it from the headline or sky, as we call it in my country, so I just used my inflatable bag to expand it enough so my hand could reach the connector. After this is done, you can access the connector, the only one there, and simply unhook it and pull out the defective strut. You can easily find out how struts are removed from the knobs (hint: just pull the wire). Connector: One picture summed up the order:

On some models you can set the wiper operation in the infotianment systems so it's timed intermittant rather than rain sensitve. I've seen the random wiper activation on other Skoda models as being a fault with the wiper stalk.

A bit lengthy post, but I'd like to share my findings so far. Reason one, this post often pops up in search, reason two, I'm currently trying to find replacement engine. Since CTHE are very difficult to come by and I found only one damaged I started cross-referencing other variants of CTH. I was using legit account of partslink24 with Seat Ibiza VIN that had CTHE and free account SuperETKA with few random VW model that had CTHA,B,C,D engine plus A1 with CTHG and of course my own Fabia with CAVE. By no means this list is exhaustive or definitive ! Following list has CTH numbers. If you see any error, please correct me. If you see CAV typed after CTH assume it's for all subvariants as stated for CTH i.e CTH E,D = CAV E,D / CTH A,B = CAV A,B unless specified otherwise. If I haven't typed F or G variants in few parts, but if E has them, then you can assume those two also. In green are parts that differ between CAV and CTH In blue are parts specific to high horsepower variants Throttle 03C 133 062 AA new partnumber from 2012 (most likely created with CTH variants) Coil on plug 036 905 715 H superseeds F and G Injector 03C 906 036 N superseeds M since 2012. Seat forums suggest that 03C 906 036 F was initially in CAV and can be swapped together with wiring connctors to fit CTH swap. Engine block 03C 103 011 AR - Same for CTH A,B,C,E,F,G and CAV Timing cover 03C 109 210 CM - specific for each engine, here CTHE it superseeded 03C 109 210 AR from CAVE. Important. Timing cover most likely this can be swapped between engines since as far as I can tell on the inside only oil separator is different and it's external shape that's chassis matched. Oil separator can be swapped. Timing covers from older units pre-CAV cannot be used. Separator made by Hengst from p/n AR is 03C 103 464 E and can be seen of photos for few different covers, but other p/n with changed final letter also exist. Way to difficult to pinpoint what's up. Complete piston set with rings 03C 107 065 CK - same for CTH A,B,C,D,E. In CAV it has notice of importance that it MUST be used instead of previous unit and funnily enough, diagrams say explicitly those older ones are permanently unavailable. Connecting rods 03C 198 401 D - same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Crankshaft 03C 105 101 BM is a superseeding unit BF (BF is in some CAV) - same for A,B,C,D,E and CAV Cylinder head with camshafts 03C 103 063 CR Specific to CTH E,F Cylinder head WITHOUT camshafts 03C 103 264 E same for CTH A,B,C,D,E,F and CAV Inlet camshaft 03C 109 101 DC same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Exhaust camshaft specific between CTH and CAV but A,B,C,D,E variants of those two share them so for example CTHA has same p/n as CTHE Cylinder head cover (one that hold camshafts) 03C 103 475 BC has been superseeded by p/n CD in 2013 for CTH A,B,C,D,E Valve lifter/rocker 036 109 411 K has superseeded 036 109 411 E in all CTH and CAV engines but it's not inherent to CTH Valve springs are a bit of mix. Most catalogs show one number for IN and one for EX aside from SEAT that uses one on both sides. EX-036 109 623 AC IN-036 109 623 R Most likely same for all CAV CTH Exhaust valves 03C 109 612 have been superseeded and changed for CTH. There are three p/n that differ in last letter G, R and AE Intakes valves show as two numbers 036 109 601 AD and 036 109 601 AL I'm not absolutely sure, but AL pops up more often with CTH. AD is in my CAVE Skoda. Timing chain tensioner 03C 109 507 BA has superseeded AH from CAV. BA fits CTH A,B,C,D,E,F,G Timing chain and guides 03C 109 158 A, 03C 109 509 P, 03C 109 469 K same for CAV CTH (A,B,C,D,E,F,G) Timing sprocket and adjuster 03C 109 571 F, 03C 109 088 E same for CAV CTH (A,B,C,D,E,F,G) Engine oil cooler 03C 117 021 J same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Turbo with manifold is variant specific for CTHE and others (some engines like CTHG have multiple numbers including rebuilt units) and it would take way to long to figure out which is which. Compressor 03C 145 601 E same for CTH A,B,C,D,E and CAV Water pump 03C 121 004 J same for all CAV CTH Sealing flange with sealing ring and trigger wheel 036 103 171 B same for all CTH and CAV Rear flange for gearbox 03C 103 551 H same for CTH B,C,D,E most likely others too. Intake tube for oil pump 03C 115 251 AE specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH Oil pump chain tensioner 03C 109 507 AF specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH Oil pump chain 03C 115 225 specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH Oil sump specific to C,B,E but interchangable CAV-CTH (A and D variants have different sump number) Oil pump 03C 115 105 AG same for CTH C,B,D,E - probably CAV too Oil pump sprocket 03C 115 121 J has superseeded M but both show in all CAV CTH Crankshaft oil pump sprocket 03C 105 209 AG specific to higher power engines E,F,G but same for CAV and CTH High pressure fuel pump 03C 127 026 M from cav has been superseeded for CTH with 03C 127 026 P and later there was newer superseed 03C 127 026 R some forums say it solved flooding and unequal delivery to cylinders. High press. fuel hose 03C 130 241 AS this is 4th final revision. My CAVE Skoda had AN or AP High press. fuel pump rocker 06L 109 311 has been changed for CTH (A,B,C,D,E,F,G) and superseeds in CAV In-tank fuel pump 6R0 919 051 N has been changed few times, this is final number. High output units also use higher pressure fuel filter. This is more chassis revision than CTH itself. Crankpulley 03D 105 255 D same for CTH C,B,D,E and CAV Cover in front/near oil pump 03C 103 669 H changed for CTH and superseeds p/n 03C 103 669 E for CAV PCV piping 03C 103 474 AD shows in diagrams with note "since 2012" but doesn't explicitly say it superseeds. This number I typed is from CTHE in Seat Ibiza. Second PCV pipe 03C 103 558 AA superseeded p/n K it's specific for CTH E,F,G notes say it has to be used with intake pipe 6R0 129 684 E Oil jets 03C 103 157 A same for CTH A,B,C,D,E,F,G and CAV and also many other engine including those starting with letter B. Additional info about timing. There is a separate kit from VAG that serves as upgrade, yet individual parts do not show as superseeding. Two notable are chain with less but thicker plated links and final revision of timing chain tensioner. It's number is 03C 198 229 B Letter B is important as this defines timing chain/oil pump sprocket ! This kit HAS TO BE used as COMPLETE swap. Sprockets have different amount of teeth, and even though final ratio is the same as stock CAV CTH, it CANNOT be mismatched. 03C109158H Timing chain (changed from A) 03C109507BD Chain tensioner (changed from BA) 03C109088G Camshaft adjuster (changed from E) 03C109571K Camshaft sprocket (changed from F) 03C105209BC Lower timing/pump sprocket 19/23 (changed from AG) 03C109509AA Chain guide (changed from P) 03C109469R Chain guide (changed from K)

I rather suspect state of OCU battery does not affect GPS - and it also may not affect SOS capability in normal conditions, it is a backup to enable coms if the vehicle loses 12 volt power, for instance, in a collision. There's a good chance that the Dealer suggesting OCU battery replacement wants to fire the parts cannon.

@Warrior193 Where have you seen or are seeing this recommended change regime for Anti freeze / summer coolant / anti rust fluid, AKA Coolant? Anyplace from VW Group or Skoda? Check the Strength of the Coolant for the Region used. The Service should include that, but very few do. Where are you seeing the price of a Coolant Change at main Dealers now that Cam belt / Water pumps with a TDI or Cam Belt with a TSI is not at 50,000 miles / 5 years?

Well - £446 later, car is back. Turbo actuator replaced, plus scanning, plus coding it in to pair up with the turbo. The old one was quite corroded. 😑 That's over 800 quid since Christmas.. just on one car... 🤑