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This morning, I finally stopped a vibration that in the cabin that has been irritating me for the past 6 months. It sounded to be above / behind the glove box, it occurred when the car was at 1100rpm. So at cruising RPM. Now I do have a USB cable and Camera cable ran for the past 2 years. I assumed this had moved. I've had the glove box out more times than I can count. Clothe taper every cable and plug. Cable ties where I could. And still it vibrated. In the end i narrowed it done to the passenger air vent. Where it connects to the duct behind. This duct was vibrating off the vent duct above. Packed in some foam between the 2 ducts and no more vibrations. What a journey!

Pretty certain that is a recess to store a warning triangle should you have one

A few from this morning. The Robin joined us at our table!

Briskoda-branded warning triangles for all.

All fitted in time to collect the missus from work. Item was Luk branded at ca. £69+vat. Labour was £60+vat per hour. I made a point of speaking to the mechanic and, when asked about the make of cylinder, he said 'we don't fit Ebay parts here'. As someone who has often bought cheap and bought twice, I agree with him. First master cylinder in 182k miles - AI reckons about 2m operations😲

The first car to set a Land Speed Record of over 60mph was also electric La Jamais Contente

mine is now!

Arrow down usually, indicating direction of flow.

I'll post back when I find out which brand of master they used. If it's Sachs, Valeo, Luk, etc, then fair enough. I have to bear in mind that there's an insurance that goes with the work - if it goes wrong it's straight back to them. If it's me doing it, it's all on me!!

Managed to do it all today without bumper off. Found best way to twist bulb out was with a stubby flat head screwdriver, get it in-between the slotted plastic bulb holder and twist. Bulbs I linked earlier for £2 a pair work great with no errors, looks a million times better than the halogens 👍. Hope this helps someone else. Thanks to hubrad for earlier comment which gave me inspiration to use a tool of some sort to twist bulb out.

I got a sachs master from amazon as no one else locally had any and did it myself. Think it was around £45-00 and that was cheap but the cost of labour plus vat and any extras soon mount up. Its fairly straight forward but a pain to do as you have to remove pedals etc and its also one of those jobs you can see it but getting to it without a ramp isnt easy. I reckon say two hours labour plus parts and vat £227 is a fair price. Alasdair

Had a quick look and difficult to see due to battery box but looks external. The plunger/rubber gaitor on the slave is internal so if leaking wont be noticed but looks like it can be replaced without Gbox removal. Check bottom of bell housing/gearbox join for signs of fluid. Sons fabia is the same. His was leaking into bell housing but I replaced it without removing Gbox. Keep an eye on your brake/clutch fluid. It may be that fluid is getting past the seals in either slave/master but not actually leaking yet. If your fluid is dropping then theres a leak somewhere. Alasdair

Mine went and it was the master. Used to do it randomly. Couldnt see any leaks but they were ending up on engine undertray. When you replace it watch for the small rubber grommets/seas. They dont generally come with new master and can get left in old one. Have a 58 plate estate (same engine) sitting for spares so will check the slave and see if its external/internal for you. Alasdair

As has been said, even the 1.0 TSI needs a longer run occasionally. All cars have EGR and short runs and EGR don't mix. For sure avoid a TDI if the majority of trips are short.

Thanks, I'll let u know...

Cough.. not me: Unless of course those two 'oles were cooling vents for the batteries And second and third coughs... for the Jesko, and Speirling: Gaz

All check your PMs

Just take a knife and cut off the pink plug the excessive plastic trim that doesn not allow it to put into grey socket in 3V0035020B. Same to be done with blue plug that must be put into black socket of 5E0919606. Pls share VIN in PM so I can check your configuration (required to answer your question abouth USB).

Hi everyone, I just registered to this forum because I do have a Skoda Fabia MK3 from 2015 and I need help with it I saw a lot of super interesting posts in this forum and I’m sure that I’ll find good infos and tips ! See you !

I know that feeling especially when you only have one car. Pressure on to get it right and as you say down to you if it doesnt. Only had to hire one car in the last 20 years when it went wrong and yes it was down to me. Alasdair

Well, considering it is just shy of 3,000 HP, almost double that of a Bugatti, is it that surprising??

The condensation seems to happen on the circuit board, under the body of the connector. I posted some photos of the typical damage the other day in another thread, will link to it later.

Arrow pointing up. Dirt on the top side so assume airflow is downwards towards motor Just changed filter for new one. Re-calibrated and rescanned for codes. Still the same issue. Definitely improved on where it was when I started looking at it and good enough for now!

Bought mine 6months old from a dealer as their GM’s company car. Didn’t have one so don’t be surprised if it isn’t around.

Yes this is for warning triangle. Mine is aftermarket but it fits in the OEM slot.

Yes you can remove the rear set bottoms and backrests. Whether you are upgrading from a 2014 Mk2 to a 2021/2 Mk3 is a different matter, up to you if and how much the newer car is better, less wear and tear on the 2021/2 car may well be a good improvement depending on the condition of the 2014 car to 2021/2. The extra "aids" and "assists" give both improvements (for some) and potential for more issue (or annoyance for some). Whether the 2021/2 Fabia at 11/12 years old will be in the same condition as the 2014 is again a different matter. Fabias are very popular but that doesn't mean they are the best, or the VW products and brands - but obviously plenty of owners like them and I'm an outlier here. My wife's 90PS, 1.2 TSI, 5-speed manual has plenty of power for certainly two people and some luggage and more, I did notice a difference when driving with three passengers (no luggage) but the direct injections turbos need at least occasion higher revs driving to stop them clogging up a bit over time. I realise you are just using o-60 mph as an example but 0-60 has always been a silly measurement in real life driving on the roads unless you're a boy or girl "racer" you need to, as you seem to suggest, compare power bands of the cars actually on the move, to see the spread and depth and cross over points. Ego figures can easily be achieved at the expense of more practical driving and component and parts overall longevity. Car electronic can also overcome some lack of driver skills and sense, particularly with launch controls for real 0-60 ego figures. As already put there's a modifying thread in this form but also more information in the 'Fabia Projects' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades'. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

Was my similar concern as we sold a mazda cx5 which hsd blown head gasket pressurising system to buy this car instead.. Holds pressure on pressure test, but know what you mean about combistibles check..

Confirmed LV don’t consider this a modification. Looks better.

Isnt the DQ381 a 7-speed wet? That's what i got i think.

We made a similar move a month ago. Went from a 1.6 tdi Octavia to a 1l petrol 2022 Scala. At 6'3" I can have the drivers' seat all the way back, and then sit behind the drivers seat comfortably. The cabin space is slightly smaller than the Octavia. But for us, a family of 4 not prohibitively or overly noticeably so. The big difference is the boot size. Lets be honest, the Octavia has a massive boot. We went on a city break for half term last week and the Scala's boot was ample for a family sized suitcase and a few bags etc. In 4 weeks, we have driven a mixture of motorway and shorter trips. The car has been efficient and comfortable on both shorter and longer journeys. It's the first time owning a car with the 1.oTSI engine, and I'm impressed. Seems efficient, but can also handle the motorways.

You can try and it might work. It depends on if it’s just gummed up or mechanically just failing. But essentially it’s sticking open so your getting more “air” in the chamber than the maf is metering in when you lift off after a long consistent run. So the ECU thinks it’s a maf problem. If you search my username and egr you’ll find my symptom development guide I did up. In the end I had mine blanked off and mapped out for 20% the cost replacing.

Something else I've noticed is that on a hot day, parked in the sun the infotainment can go mad. I use a cheap tinfoil sunshade in the windscreen. Weirdest thing I saw was the steering wheel buttons reversing function (i.e, left buttons doing right button things)!

Yesterday, work continued at the "table." The Kodiaq data set was loaded, and the coding was prepared as far as possible from the 4B unit.

It is releated with something about Component Protection. Probably there is possibility something could go wrong, you need to update software and with that VCRN (Vehicle Component Registered Number) you can turn off CP I guess. Not sure about that. Also there is stated that if you can not read it with clamp, you have to unsolder chip, or at least unsolder VCC leg. It is possible that other people who had problems with reading with clamp had MU version which start with 0 🤔

Wishing you all the best, and hope to still see you around! Having just done some wiring work on my vRS, and recently driven my dad's new 1 Series, I'm wondering if my next car will even be German, let alone from VAG.

I have replaced my hid bulbs, I suppose they were stock ones. Philips Xenstart old ones. Osram Night Breaker 220 new ones. Light was tested at the same road, 1 day difference, same headlight settings and same camera manual settings. So comparison is valid, not amplified with camera auto settings. Upper old Lower new Left is main beam Right high beam

Possibly an indirect effect of EGR malfunction. I believe @mac11irl has experienced something like this.

Does anyone have an R600 intake on their Mk3/3.5? I’ve got a question about the install.

OK Dave, if you were a bit closer I would recommend East Yorkshire Retrofit as I have had some work done by them and the did a perfect job fitting a reverse camera, but would have liked the electric retracting towbar, but I guess the company in Poole will do the job right (hopefully at the right price) for you, Good luck

Did this job on our Fabia estate last summer Jack up drivers side rear wheel and remove wheel - use axle stands or chocks to support as you will be working in the wheel arch Wheel arch liner is held on with 8 or so small torx screws - remove the upper ones first and the lowest ones last as its easier that way - it takes a bit of wriggling to remove but its easy enough The evap filter is held in by one bolt at the bottom - remove this and then slide it down the bracket that holds the top part in place and then remove the clips holding the two pipes in place Refit pipes to new one then refit it into bracket and replace bolt Refitting liner can be a bit awkward but goes back ok with a bit of wriggling Took me around 45 minutes to do without rushing - best of luck

That code I think is misfire on cylinder 4. It may be there that the headgasket is gone and your not getting proper compression/combustion etc. If the cooler has been bypassed then I would be 99% that its the head gasket or crack in head itself. Alasdair

Good luck with Skoda UK, although I was advised by them that they couldn’t override the decision made by the branch. I’ve now submitted my complaint to the motor Ombudsman and I’m awaiting them to allocate my case. Once I’ve got any updates I’ll let you know

Looking for a late estate 21/22 TSI automatic. They all seem to have the 94bhp engine.

So, wiring harness 4B and the wiring harness for the axle sensor are mostly finished. Today I ordered more colored wires so I can complete the wiring for 4B to the headlights. Connector 4B still needs to be replaced; it's just my wiring harness test connector. Then I can finally start the Retrofit I gathered some important information from the retrofit in the O3 so I don't make the same mistakes again.

How old is your coolant? Poor coolant or coolant that is over 5 years old will cause overheating issues. It's worth getting a new thermostat and potentially a water pump whilst you are there (the MK3.5's are less prone to water pump failures but it still happens). Especially with Australia temperatures.

Sounds like maybe a vaccum leak. my sons fabia(same model) had the same symptoms The brake servo vaccum hose is prone to splitting at the joins. His was split in a few places. I taped his up and used some jubilee clips and the eratic idle/stalling was cured. He got a lean fault code as well. Hope its an easy fix Alasdair

Hello Martyn, welcome to the forum. I can't help with the erratic idle, but can recommend a garage in New Malden if 8 miles is not too far. Chamberlains, just off the A3 at the Kingston flyover/Shannon corner. I used to use VAS Technical, but they moved to Ashtead, a little too far away from my area.

Disclaimer - I can only tie the following to my own experience over the last 6-12months with my CAYC engine coded 1.6 common rail diesel Mk2 Octavia. Also, I am not a mechanic, nor overly handy with a spanner. I do however have "The Nack" as Dilbert's paediatrian once put it, so tend to be able to see correlation and decide if causation is linked or not so... here goes! How to tell early on and as symptoms persist whether your EGR is starting to fail and what will happen as it gets worse, broken down into increasing levels of severity, with a quick description of how the egr system works (broad strokes) What does the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system do? Nutshell version - it pumps a certain amount of exhaust gases back into the cylinders via the air intake to cool the burn and help reduce overall emissions. Ladybird book version - (my understanding) On cold start and running the EGR inlet valve is closed. When the engine is up to normal running temp and the engine is running at less than full throttle, the valve is opened. at this time a certain amount of the Exhaust gas is diverted into the EGR cooler which on the CAYC is buried down the back of the engine, very inaccessible and the labour time to access is why replacing the system is so expensive. Out of the cooler, the gas is mixed back into the air flow around the inlet manifold, and the volume of gas sent is metered to match the Fuel:Air mix the ECU is expecting. The exhaust gas reduces the volume of combustible mix i. the cylinder which thus results in a slower burn that is meant to be a lower temp and helps burn off more of the exhaust emissions. When you lift off the accelerator and coast in gear or go full throttle, the egr valve is closed - Coasting cuts the fuel flow to the engine, thus no emissions so no gases need to be sent back for reburning. When on full throttle, the ECU doesnt care about emissions, and wants to deliver max power and torque available, so wants the "cleanest" fastest burn, so it doeant want exhaust gases reducing that efficiency. The above is all great when things are working properly. But, EGRs are notoriously bad at doing their job properly so, below is how detect when yours has had enough. Level 1 - Early signs While driving your car along at a consistent speed, such as NSL on a motorway, you have to slow down considerably, or stop very briefly, to pay a toll or similar situation. on accelerating back up to NSL you see the glow plug flashing at you. Cycling the ignition makes this go away and your journey continues uneventful, other than the nagging feeeling in your head. If you have a fault scanner, there will likely be no stored fault, unless you scan while the GP light is flashing. if you do find a code it will relate to the Mass Air Flow Readings. This is most likely a false error caused by the following - When you coast, the egr should close, but if yours is sticking open, it wont and so after Five Seconds (based on my monitoring over time tracking this) the ecu is going to have unexpected gases flowing into the chamber. When you put your foot down again, the ECU will still be finding unexpected "air volume" in the system as EGR should be closed on full throttle too and so will assume bad readings from the MAF and set the glow plug light flashing. There will be no limp mode nor will there be any loss or change in power delivery. Cycling the engine will reset that fault code and it wont come back unless you repeat the above circumstances. If you can't safely cycle the ignition, its absolutely fine, just an annoying little light on the dash. Level 1 is very intermittent, but will over time (1000s of miles) become more frequent. ignition cycling to clear the code seems to also kick it back to normal operation. NB - an initial check of your brake lights should be done, as a flashing glow plug light on some cars is also an alert that there is a problem with brake light illumination, probably the brake pedal switch. We will assume the brake lights are all working... I'll add Level 2 shortly, as ive tyoed all of this on my phone, while drinking brandy and eating crisps on a Sunday night...

Ordered a white colour edition with a few exras on 25th Feb. Car finally ona channel ferry Sat 11th. June. Hope to collect car in 22nd June. Finally received new car on 30th. June. All well so far.