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Make & Model: Škoda Octavia Elegance 1.9 TDI (ASV Engine) with full vRS styling Colour: Black Metallic Mileage: 222,904 Price: £1750 (£1500) Description: URGENT SALE: Moving house this weekend. The car must be sold and collected by Saturday evening (April 4th). I have reduced the price significantly for a hassle-free sale. The first person to view and offer £1500 takes it. I will not accept a penny less, so please no offers below this figure. It is with a heavy heart that I am saying goodbye to my beloved Octavia. I have owned this car since January 2013, and honestly, it is the best vehicle I have ever owned. It has never once let me down. We have road-tripped across Europe multiple times, from Gibraltar to Ukraine, and she never skipped a beat. I am moving abroad and simply cannot take her with me, so I’m posting here first in the hope that another Škoda enthusiast will look after her as I have. Condition: Used — Enthusiast maintained Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: This car has been meticulously maintained with oil changes twice a year regardless of mileage. MOT: Freshly passed on 10th March 2026. Last Service: Full service including all filters completed on 9th March 2026. Tyres: Plenty of life left; rears are over 4mm and fronts are over 6mm. Documentation: Sale includes two keys, the original Škoda brochure, and a massive folder of invoices and historical records. Extras: Electric Leather Recaro seats from an Audi S3: These are wired into the car and function perfectly at the touch of a button. Passat B5 "Trippling" indicators Matching Spare Wheel: Includes a full-size matching alloy wheel as the spare Spare Parts: I am including a box of spares I have, including rear vRS brake discs and pads, caliper fitting kits, exhaust mountings, and several sump plugs, etc. Mods: Engine: Remapped to 136bhp with better torque. EGR deleted from the ECU. Exterior: Full vRS body kit (front and rear bumpers, tailgate spoiler) and 17" vRS Spider alloy wheels. Brakes: Upgraded to larger vRS front and rear brakes (discs and calipers). Interior: vRS steering wheel, gear knob, and handbrake sleeve. Shipping: N/A Collection: Yes - from Leicester LE3 Note on "Bad Bits": To be 100% transparent, there are two minor items I haven’t had time to address. First, the sunroof is currently sealed shut with Tiger Seal due to a snapped spring clip; it is 100% watertight, it just doesn't open. Second, the exhaust was replaced with a standard Octavia unit during a trip to France in 2024. It works perfectly and requires no repair, but it isn't a vRS unit, so it doesn't quite fill the rear bumper cutout. Pictures: https://photobucket.com/share/ede40a03-361b-4400-8058-8c109ad630ee Octavia eBay listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/168253869008 I am not able to attach any images to my ad, and I don't know why. Error code: -200

Tried that, no joy! However had a poke around in the hole in the back card and yes opened the door, checked its operation and it worked, Have squirted some ptfe lube into it, it now works fine! Maybe caused by carrying 2 x new tyres in the boot area which might have put pressure on the door card and hence a little strain on the lock mechanism thus causing my problem!!

I’ve had the Crossclimate 2 tyres since I bought my car (nearly 53,000 km in a year and a half). I live in a low-mountain area, but I often find myself driving in the mid-mountain range. I’ve driven on snow-covered roads several times, and they’ve held up well, except on one or two occasions on a road that hadn’t been cleared properly (though it had snowed heavily the night before). The car skidded a bit, but it was easy to get it back on track. And in terms of fuel economy, it performs well; I average just over 4.8 litres, with a lot of motorway driving (a record of 3.5 litres per 100 km on a 60 km journey).

If its a bearing it will get progressively worse although I had one that lasted for months until I got round to replacing it. Slight droning noise so I checked and there was no noticeable movement or play. Eventually became loud enough to pin point which one. Maybe the garage that did the tyres would pop it on a ramp for you and give each wheel a quick check. Alasdair

i had a same problem... water all around the car... no sunroof and door seals like new... car is 2008 year and 200,000 km on board... remove the door card panel and check for leak in foil and glue... i will try to put pictures how i did it... from this day i never have problem but i did it on all doors... LightshotScreenshotCaptured with LightshotLightshotScreenshotCaptured with LightshotLightshotScreenshotCaptured with Lightshot

New to the group with a very rare Superb I thought I’d share my new daily. My other daily, An A8 D2, is an amazing car but the maintenance, fuel costs, and parts hunting can get a bit much 😂 so I wanted something easier to live with. Luckily, I found something similar in feel but far cheaper to run, and my dream spec: a Skoda Superb Edition 100 with the 1.9 PD130 and a manual gearbox. It is sitting at around 180k miles and needed a bit of love. The bodywork was rough, but I found a donor car in the same colour and swapped over a lot of the panels along with some interior bits. Mechanically it feels solid for the mileage, although the camshaft was definitely past its best. I’m now giving the top end a full rebuild plus a new timing belt, water pump, and a few other jobs to future proof it for plenty of European trips. After all that work, injector 4 snapped on me, which was deflating. But, it's back up and running fine now (touch wood). Then, while driving on Friday, someone smashed my wing mirror 😢. Now, for some odd reason, the indicators don’t work. Being an ’05 model, it doesn't have the indicator in the wing mirror; they're in the wing. The fuses are fine and the hazard switch works to turn them all on. Any ideas why they aren't working?

It should be that ringed one in top row I think, check if it has blown. Wiring info said 15A rating, not 10A.

Laura won’t do that for you. But if you still want to Impress your passengers with this, just give the command and push the buttons without them seeing it. May work 🤣

I would definitely get it coded, may cost you nothing if you buy in the right shop. Re battery charging, Lidl sell a Ultimate Speed ULGD 5A charger with a inbuilt voltmeter, very useful, for around £15, only drawback is that it will not charge a "flattened" battery, if voltage < than something like 8/9 I think. Also check that your Alternator is OK.

Many thanks for your message and the compliment on the car’s condition. It’s always rewarding when the effort to keep a car 'tip-top' is recognized by someone else in the community. Best of luck to you as well, and thank you for the kind wishes regarding our move!

Having recently sold on a slightly newer VRS tdi with slightly more miles, I know what it takes to keep them looking good and mechanically tip-top. However your older car looks in better condition than what ours was. It's clear to me you know how to look after a car. Good luck in your new home 👍

It might be your recordings and EQ but that sounds more like a wind type of noise than bearings or perhaps tyre, my wife is better at identifying and tracking noise than me. As already put check tyres and underside for anything loose. I would get someone else to drive and sit and listen in the front passenger and left and right rear seats to see if there are any differences to the sound you hear. You could poke around at the door and window seals just in case too. I also wonder if there are any flaps not working or partial blockages to the front or any part of the car. On my last car I had a whistle that I never did find and often wondered if it might have been the uprated ARB altering things or causing it but it could have been lots of other things. It may be that the new tyres being newer and more subtle and if a different model or make to the Dunlops quieter so as they are quiet and you notice the noise more. How loud does the stereo go. 😀 Lots of short journeys in some ways doesn't help the tyres or the engine or car in some ways.

Attached are photos of media set-up

It’s not an issue, I don’t know the engines either so what you said made me think and if it provoked that reaction then we’re half way there. I’m very much cut from the same cloth when it come to memory retention so I believe you should say what you think (before it’s forgotten) because though 50% of what I say is wrong the other 50% is right and may just be the answer needed.

The answer is that I never saw it and I was not implying that you did; I was saying that his logic seems OK based on his previous experience.

B & D are very much the possible issue. & the AC onboard charger as well. Then as far as his cables they need tried on another EV, because what they last charged does not mean still working. I have had 2 fail.

if you mean mk3 as in facelift of the mk2 ie the 2011-2014 style then yes but a LOT to swap just make sure you have everything you need and factor in wiring extension and plug swaps etc

If the deviations are too large, dynamic calibration no longer works; a static calibration must be performed.

That's a nice looking wagon, great advert too. Good luck with sale 👍

I don't have ODBeleven but I know that it has plenty of features and it should have the option to reset and relearn. This could be one of those sections where you need to pay a little extra to unlock that mode. Perhaps other ODBeleven users can assist here. Either way, if you've had that error pop up you might need to get the radar adjusted back before kicking off the relearning phase. Was there any physical damage?

So problem solved, after taking the dash apart I found that the dab plug had not come out but the innards of the plug had come loose more than likely due to pulling at the head unit to remove before finding out that the cables were short and before taking the dash apart to to the job correctly. So I've fixed the plug by fiddling with it and a touch of super glue . Let it set ,put it back together and voila everything works as it should . Thank you to the members who replied and commented on my post ,any help was appreciated. Cheers

Thanks @Evolution13 - It's done around 17k miles and I filled up about 4 days prior with standard unleaded from a very high turnover Costco forecourt. It had been driven daily afterwards. I'll check the airfilter - it was a SA guy who came rather than the AA but he didn't really do any physical checks, it was all based on the PC.

In that/this case take no notice of me, I forget which engines these cars have, which owners have swapped to what, Favorits to Felicias and so on and it's a bit of a crossover period and I can't remember my own name some days. I saw something the other day that reminded me of a possible heating cause but can I remember what it might be and where I might have seen it, no, but I might at 3am, and then forget it again.

@Evolution13 He stated in the first few minutes of the video that it was the 40KW model. He also included the screenshot of the dash that BCA used to sell the car, it showed 92% charge and 121 miles of range left. This as he also said, was not his first EV so was not a noob and knew all about the regen and one pedal driving. Yes he could have tried out the DC and AC charging when he collected the car. That said though when buying an Ice car and the fuel gauge reads nearly full, what do you do? Start sucking fuel out to if it to see if it is fuel and of the correct type etc? No of course you don't, you take it as being correct don't you?

I’ll message you

Hi, are you still Suffolk based, I'm in Ipswich and I'd be happy to pay if you can get my bootlid sorted with your carscanner set up.

If it’s the bearing, you find the noise is worst at a certain speed and multiples/ fractions of that, and then quietens a bit in between. Eg, if the noise is loudest at 50mph, it will also be relatively loud at 25mph and 100mph (hard to test that) Or 20, 40, 80mph. Reason being the frequency of the drone resonates through the bearing into the hub and chassis. If it’s tyre related i expect it to change pitch depending on speed. Other possibility is it’s part of t a wheel arch liner or trim piece that’s loose, and the airflow above 50mph is enough force to push it out and rub on the tyre or road. Might not be noticeable looking at the car when it’s stopped. I remember it took me ages to figure what a weird rubbing noise was on my old cordoba, turned out it was the under tray was loose and hitting the road at 54mph. Stationary it tucked itself back up out of the way. Drove me nuts for about a week until enough sandpapering on the asphalt wore it away enough to hang loose enough that I copped it.

Key Aspects of the 1.6 AEE Engine Valve System: Valve Clearance: Self-adjusting (Hydraulic lifters). Engine Design: 4-cylinder, 8-valve, Single Overhead Camshaft (SOHC). Maintenance: If tapping noise occurs, check for worn lifters, low oil pressure, or blocked oilways. If the engine is noisy, it is likely a faulty hydraulic lifter needing replacement rather than manual clearance adjustment.

Meant to add if they check the wheels get them to check undertray is secure. Have had one vibrate at certain speeds due to lack of fixings. Alasdair

New Zealand here but my first ever Skoda the 4.5 Octavia Combi RS in race blue with DCC, Canton stereo and Suedia seats is a cracker. I test drove the outgoing mark 4 but the extra 20hp makes quite a difference giving the EA888 evo4 a top end zing the earlier car didn’t have. I tested everything from Cupra to Audi S3 / RS3 and found the Skoda just felt right. It feels like a European sports sedan to drive and in sport mode with the ESC in sport mode it can really hustle down a back road with the back even coming around a little to help on corner entry and the VAQ diff doing a pretty good job of getting the power to the ground. much nicer finish inside than a Golf and I’d argue better then the Audi now they have totally ruined it with the latest facelift. I think it’s a handsome car and I like being under the radar and it doesn’t matter to me what others think of the Skoda brand. It’s a real if you know, you know car.

I have the same issue. First BCM died after 1year when i had 10k km with the same symptoms. Now i have to change it agan after 6years because car wont start or even switch the ignition on. It was almost impossible to tow the car away, because of locked steering. According to information from BCM guy, there is some issue with flash memory, which is dying because of too many rewriting requests. Iam really ****ed off of this, because they know this issue and dont care or even dont help you with the costs of BCM. Iam going to sell the car once it is repaired and this was my last škoda i bought.

Doh. Sorry yes. Read it now. Thanks

Yes. It’s an app for your phone. You need a Bluetooth obd reader for around £20 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XGB4873 and I paid £8 for the pro version of the app. It can do coding. So far there’s nothing I have wanted to do that the app can’t do. https://www.carscanner.info/coding-mqb/

U should use the search function of this forum.....would've saved u from creating a whole new discussion!! Whiskers/eye-lashes only work on pre-facelift Superb that have SLA headlights. SLA headlights use version B Bi-Xenon headlights. Version A Bi-Xenon headlights don't have the hardware, hence no amount of coding will make it work. In addition to version B headlights itself, u also need to change the Light Control Modules (LCM), upload the SLA parameter file and do code changes.

Oh god, I was a bit cynical before. Now I'm hugely cynical. I'll call them back out if it continues.

Ahh nice, yes they are indeed, that’s where my suspension was going to be done but couldn’t wait in the end so went elsewhere a few weekend sooner. Welcome to stop by if you are at a loose end whilst waiting

I rather suspect a case of B.S here - the TSIs regen on a closed throttle, I can see absolutely no reason why this could affect your fuel use figures to the extent you say.

This chap has purchased a Nissan Leaf with an assured battery SOH report and warranty from BCA. However, all might not be as claimed; investigations are still ongoing on this car. So I'm posting this here for you people who have much more knowledge than me on EVs for your thoughts into what the issue with this car might be. I'm not going to say anymore about this, as I don't want to be accused of saying something that may or may not be incorrect, so to that end you will need to watch the video and listen carefully to what is said about it and then you are invited to say what you think about it. When the investigations are completed and the results are published, then we shall see whether BCA will stand by their warranty or not, and we should all find out just what the truth really is with this car. So go for it, knock yourselves out.

As always depends how its been looked after, mines on 142k, no real issues, Thermostat, a glow plug, an ABS sensor, electric water pump and a corroded brake hose in 10 years (plus consumables) a mate has 200k on his, still original DPF, EGR, Injectors and Turbo. The Silca bag seems to cause issues with the heater but i haven't had these. Might be worth hooking an OBD reader on it and seeing whats going on, check the DPF Soot/Ash levels? The weak point would be crank seals, seem to leak slightly with regularity.

Tip for that but be careful. Get your palm and place it on the spring side of the arm. Push down repeatedly softly and this should be enough to dislodge it without a puller. Passenger side where the bonnet wire would be for a lhd. Sometimes the bung is missing there. But also check the bottom wire on the right side and ensure the bung is tight or it all leaks to the carpet.

Had similar on our Roomster with same engine. Gave a different fault code as well though. After a lot of faffing about replacing things that didn't help, it turned out to be oil contamination in the wiring/connectors of the loom for the pre-cat sensor. I'd seen it when changing sensor, but dismissed it as unlikely to cause issues (unlike water in there),;but I was dead wrong. It's a thing, have a look: Sensor-oil-contamination-ver2.pdf

VED is excluded, but delivery charge is included. Assuming reg fee of £55 (excluded from calculation), I make that £405 over.

I don't know for the Mk4 - but on the Mk3 I believe it's a double press of the lock button, you could try that.

@minimumcharacters thanks for that - appreciate it. It’s so confusing isn’t it!

Hello there. Im Alex and i have a Skoda Scala 1.0 G-tec 2020 model. Its the ambition version and i chose this model with natural gas for the economy of the cng. I bought the original bodykit from monte carlo and the emblem and letters in black. I also bought eibach sportline springs -45mm and with the new wheels OZ racing Superleggera iii the car really tranformed. After 60.000km and when the guarantee was over, was time for a little tune to the engine, just to wake up a little. Pipercross air filter with racingline turbo inlet elbow, full custom exhaust and remaped. Now the car is more enjoyable and fun to drive. My next mod the st xa suspension and i try to figure out how can i install bigger brake setup.

Is this attitude really necessary? I have benefitted a number of times from Carlston's extensive and accurate knowledge, as have others on here. Your claim that Carlston's post is wrong is clealy incorrect in itself.

Skoda scala 1.0 tsi Stage 2 Custom exhaust Maxton design bodykit Lowered with st suspension Gold tec rims

commenting simply for the sakes of commenting on whims aint big or col probably because it looks considerably better and with better lights too

'Not sure why you keep quoting a 34 kWH battery; it was a 40 kWh battery,' he said. Anyway, I think your calculator needs replacing, as 92% of 34 kWh is 31.28 kWh, but more importantly, 92% of 40 is 36.8 kWh. Both figures are considerably more than your figure of 27.88 kWh. I also accept that the range is always based upon the driving style, etc. of the last journey, just as it is on any type of car. It has to be based on what is expected to be left in the tank/battery x the last average mpg/mkw that the car did. But surely there has to be something way out of whack when that 92% drops to just 1% after doing 35 miles? The car is now at a proper Nissan dealership, which has said that they think it has a software problem but that they will confirm what the actual issue is once they have a proper look at the car. He will update us all on that when he does the follow-up video in due course. The video I posted is only 2 days old, so I hope that he gets answers back within the next week and posts his update soon after. And he also said in his video that he has had in the past an electric Kia Soul and a Skoda Enyaq, and as he also said, he did exactly the same thing with both of those cars: drive from his unit to home and back again and then charge on the 3-pin granny lead at his unit. He also said that the Soul he drove had a range of less than 100 miles, which this video seems to back up, but he managed to make that trip perfectly OK without any drama. So let me get this straight in my mind, it seems to me that you are actually blaming the poor performance of his Leaf firmly on him and his lack of knowledge of how to drive an EV, is that correct? I'm sitting here; thinking there is an issue with the car itself, as it looks like it lost 60%+ of what it said it should do on the remaining energy in the battery. So let's wait for the update.