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I bought some black/white Skoda badges from AliExpress but the white wasnt quite right (more like candy white rather than Moon White of my car) and wasn't the clean look I was hoping for. I refuse to pay £100 for two Skoda badges from Kopacek so decided to make my own. I ordered another pair of Black/White badges from AliExpress. I thought I would use the White background ones so that the paint had a pale base layer to go onto. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009424974993.html I then ordered some colour matched spray paint including clear lacquer. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166899014624 And finally some specialist hard plastic glue as SuperGlue doesn't work well on the ABS plastic these badges are made from https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001OZI5C First step was to dissasemble the badges. These come off quite easily with a slight bend of the back plate and gentle pry from a trim tool. I labelled each badge A/B and put the black parts in labelled bags so that they would reassemble properly. The whole of the white area of the badge as roughed up with some fine sandpaper and then wiped over with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and residue. These then had 3 gentle coats of basecoat At this point I was slightly concerned that the colour didnt look much different so I painted a small portion of the cardboard with OEM touch up paint as comparison and it was spot on. This can be seen at the bottom right of the above picture, so I was happy to crack on. Next was two gentle coats of clear lacquer and this really brought out the colour and the metallic in the base coat. The photos really don't do it justice. Then came reassembly. The glue is the type that gets applied to both parts separately, allowed to dry for a few minutes and then assembled. These went back together well and will be left for a couple of days to fully cure. In between the rain showers I had to have a quick comparison with what I started with. It looks brilliant in person and hopefully shows up on the photo below. With the car clean, and not covered in rain, I think the colour match will be perfect and a certain improvement over the standard AliExpress badge. Total cost was just under £30 so cheaper than one Kopacek badge without delivery and took approx half an hour of work and a couple of hours of drying time all in. No real skill required other than a gentle hand on dissasembly and ensuring light coats of paint to avoid runs. Im not sure if OEM badges dissasemble in the same way, so this could potentially be done with an OEM Monte Carlo badge to ensure fitment to the car is perfect. I shall await some better weather and get them installed on the car and update with further pictures when that's done.

good news it was just completely low on gas. so only £100 to sort out. phew!! thanks for everyone's help!

All I've read is asking for others to quote sources, yet just being non-descript about what you've heard from who or what. Occy's added links, quoted sources and explained stuff in detail - in part because you've asked, but in part he's proactively offered this information. I still don't see that reciprocated. This is just bonkers. What's an aggressive schedule? Too much maintenance? That flies in the face of logic. From the vehicle's point of view, there's only one way you can mess up maintenance and that's not doing it enough. Given the allusion that independents advising servicing are money-making, you're giving the impression cost is more important than maintenance.

Rather than Scrooge I would suggest it becomes an obsessive " hobbie" that does have addictive qualities. The constant drive to use less electricity and there is so much digital information that one get immersed in this detail and on can lose some what the sight of objectives like carbon reduction. No matter how much I play with electricity I still have a gas boiler which is chucking out carbon autumn, winter and spring. I have adopted these solar, battery and grid usage managements systems as one of my retirement projects and I do enjoy pottering with it. Biggy is to get the EV charged from battery and solar when the grid price is not great. 4 Kw solar generators are not cheap. Just bought another 2 Kw ish one but it is not going to make a big adding to 40 or 60 Kw EV batteries. Man had to have a hobby and if it does save, or be cost neutral, it does keep me amused.

Chances are the auto windows wont work either. Put fully down and hold for 5-10secs then fully up and hold for 5-10secs. Alasdair

Right. It’s definitely the bulb. And I managed to test it without taking out the arch liner! There was just enough room to pop the back off the headlight and just enough length on the cable to be able to plug in my old working HID bulb. That lights up fine. No issues no faults. I’m now blind from looking at it but now know it’s time for a warranty claim on the bulb supplier. Thanks @Cairus and @JR RS as always for the brilliant help.

Funnily enough, I have a colleague who is trying to get out of his Taycan, but it is serious negative equity. I suggested that as it's a PCP he might be at the voluntary termination point. It turns out that unlike a personal PCP, the VT point of a business PCP is 85%! Who knew? He still had a good deal at the beginning as he offset his annual Corporation tax for that year, but it isn't going so well for him now. Mind you, it is a stunningly well-made car, even if it has been on the back of a low loader 5 times because of breakdowns. He would buy another he reckons. Obviously, this is utter madness, but there again, his brother buys Range Rovers and has had a similar success story with breakdowns and yet he too keeps buying Range Rovers

I'd generally describe someone as reluctant when they question something four times - 'Doesn't Skoda say the diff is "lifetime"?', 'What's the evidence for this?', 'Who is the authority on this?' and 'I was under the impression that the dealers usually say it’s lifetime.' Since this isn't going to be let go, I've spent a good twenty minutes on Google. Something you need to understand is that VWAG, be it Audi, VW, SEAT, Cupra or Skoda, are utterly useless when it comes to service intervals and maintenance schedules. This is something you will find on every single VAG forum. While a phone call or quick search on here, SEATCupra.net or VWVortex.com would have given you the answer you needed, I'll explain it anyway. The reason you've been unable to find any reference to the VAQ LSD is because VAG don't call it that in any documentation. I don't know why, but they don't. VW refer to it as the 'front axle differential lock', while Skoda only refer to it in service items as the 'final drive oil'. This is a bit misleading, as 'final drive oil' is the same term used for Haldex AWD systems, which have a slightly different interval. I'm not going to send you a thirty-something email chain between my friendly Skoda dealer and I (not least because I'm not putting my buiild sheet and VIN on the internet), but that is what I found out. You can choose not to believe me if you want - I'm trying to help. The dealers are absolutely useless. For service departments filled with 'car enthusiasts', they are utterly woeful - I wouldn't go near one if they paid me. They do not understand the VAQ, and most don't even know it exists. As mentioned before, it is an electronically-controlled, hydraulically-actuated multi-plate clutch unit - it uses hydraulic pressure to enage and disengage a clutch that ties the front wheels together. This needs to be looked after properly. If you do find a dealer that knows what they're on about (I haven't yet) then most don't service it properly and won't clean the pump screen/gauze. The following is a section of email between a service advisor and I - 'Please note that the Diff gauze isn’t included in the cost for the Front Diff Lock Oil. As per SKODA’s Workshop Manual, when we perform this operation, only the Haldex Oil and Drain Plug are replaced. The Diff gauze would be an additional cost.' Clearly then, it wouldn't be a proper service according to the Skoda manual. Now, with all of that in mind, we can find a few official sources, outside of the internally-available service information. Again, remember that VAG service information is rubbish - hence why most sensible owners default to what is recommended by specialists. This document mentions 'Front axle differential lock: Change fluid (if equipped)' This document also mentions 'Front Axle Differential Lock if applicable: Every 3 years' This link, under the extended scope inspection, describes 'check/replenish final drive oil', with reference to this being every 3 years, or 30k miles. This graphic shows that the Haldex 4x4 wants doing every 3 years or 30k miles - remember that the VAQ is the exact same Gen5 pump as the AWD system. This document mentions 'Front Axle Differential Lock if applicable: Every 3 years' This service, under any vehicle equipped with a VAQ, also describes 'Front Axle Differential Lock (if equipped) - Change fluid every 3 years' Although not official, if you don't trust AwesomeGTI, you're wasting your time on any VAG forum - 'Every 20,000 miles Recommended Haldex oil + filter interval' and 'Gen 1, 2, 4, 5 and the VAQ front differential'. Link to here. I can't speak for the MQB Evo intervals, as I believe it was only Skoda that reduced the VAQ to 2 years. You question 'time versus mileage' - it is generally assumed that the average person covers 10,000 miles a year - therefore, a service interval of 30,000 miles becomes, according to VW too, 30k or 3 years, whichever is sooner. I've never heard of anyone being told the unit is sealed for life. Even if they are - two things. Firstly, this is likely the words of an inexperienced, bored service advisor - I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them. Second, some common sense is required. If we know that the Gen5 Haldex AWD unit needs servicing, then it stands to reason that the Gen5 Haldex VAQ unit also needs servicing. The reason that many places 'might suggest a more agressive service schedule than is... required' is simple - VWAG service information sucks, and the stuff breaks. You can imagine that if an electronically-controlled, hydraulically-actuated multi-plate clutch unit sounds liable to problems, then two seperate manual gearboxes, spliced into one electronically-controlled unit with two concentric input shafts and two clutches is even more liable. That's what a DSG box is. For completeness, and seeing as you mentioned it, we can touch on the DSG intervals. VAG uses several DSG types - the DQ200, DQ250, DQ381, DQ400e, DQ500 and the longitudinal DL501. All of these boxes are 'wet clutch', meaning the clutch plates are submerged in oil, with the exception of the DQ200 which is a 'dry clutch', where the clutch plates spin in air, like a traditional manual setup. All of the 'wet' boxes have filters that can, and should, be changed - even if VAG doesn't do this. The DQ200 has no filter, but does have both a gear oil and MCU (Mechatronic Unit) oil to change, when it is needed. This is often suggested around 100,000 miles. All of the DSG boxes have a recommended service interval of 40,000 miles, except the DQ200 (no interval) and the DQ381 (80,000 miles). This is because the DQ381 is supposed to use a more advanced low friction oil. Whether this actually works or not, I don't know of anyone that leaves it until 80k. I did mine at 40k, and plan to take another view at 60k - I don't cover the miles, but I do drive very hard, so am going off of 40k/4 years. I see you've requested to delete your account. It's a shame, but if you find the forum such hard work, then I don't suppose you will miss it. As you can hopefully see from the above reply, many of us here on Briskoda do have a wealth of knowledge about these cars. I find that, generally, people don't tend to take too kindly to their information being questioned multiple times. Were it new information, then I could understand, but this is a topic that has been discussed many times since 2017, and a simple search will show many links and screenshots by various members over the years. Personally, I found your replies to be a bit standoffish and cynical, although I appreciate this may not have been the intended tone. Oh, and in reply to this 'but all the sources I find are independent and have an interest in making money' - what do you think a main dealer makes more money from, selling cars, or servicing them? I'll let you in on a secret - it's not the first one. If you spend the time, have a search on the various VAG forums and see why stealers are hated so much - they are dishonest, unreliable, often incorrect, careless and vastly overpriced. Buy the car, be it brand-new or approved-used, and run. I hope this helps, whether you view this as a member or guest.

Just a quick point: the transfer case for the rear axle of the 4x4 is a Haldex Gen 6, manufactured by BorgWarner. As a former supplier of the complete transfer case, I can tell you that VW themselves extend the maintenance interval. BorgWarner has completely different recommendations 😜

Name-calling doesn't help get the point across. So instead of naming sources in the same way that you adamantly ask of others, you explain yours away as just personal experiences? And try to correct by putting more of the sentence? This is a wind-up right? @OccyVRS have you set up a second account to mess about? You nutter, you had me!

Just some examples to back-up. Not upset by the way, just trying to bring your behaviour to your attention. However, you've now disparaged the forum a couple of times. Its not a fraternity, there are plenty of opinions and deliveries, but its nothing to do with the guys that setup and run the forum at their own personal time and effort. I don't think they deserve to have their work tainted in that way.

Definitely get a second opinion! Where is the oil leaking from - engine or gearbox? How or where were you checking oil level? Are there any symptoms from the gearbox at present?

1) Why start a new thread? Because this thread was for OP to ask about spec and pricing regarding a car. Yes, servicing (or lack thereof) does come into it, but it doesn't need to become a technical bulletin discussion. 2) I would suggest ditching DuckDuckGo. I typed 'VW front differential service interval' into Google and the relevant VW service bulletin was result number nine. 3) I would suggest doing a bit more targeted research. If you've bought the car and not known about the existence of the front diff, then the research wasn't done very well. 4) The implied level of knowledge would be based on you having done more than twenty minutes of Googling. A simple search of 'VW front differential' would highlight the terms mentioned, such as VAQ. That being said if, as you now tell us, you don't know anything about the differential, perhaps advising members on it being 'lifetime' isn't the best port of call? Seeing as you commented on '40k miles not being terribly high', I assumed you had done your research and had information from an official source. Certainly, I wouldn't be on a public forum dispensing advice on things I didn't understand. That's how mistakes happen, and how people that rely on these forums for information end up damaging their cars. 5) I'm not upset. I've been using this forum for a while and I'm very happy with it. The reason for my annoyance is that, as above, I assumed you'd done your research on the VAQ, hence why you were giving advice and were 'under the impression' by dealers. When I read someone giving out incorrect advice and then questioning where I am getting my information from, that tends to annoy me. 6) You speak for yourself. People such as @Warrior193, @Evolution13 and I agree on many things, but also disagree frequently. That said, we all have experience on the topics we discuss - which is not the case here. When you're stating experiences that aren't correct, that's when disagreements occur. I've given you plenty of links to play with. You've given us vague ascertations from stuff you've read using DuckDuckGo. Try using Ecosia - if you're going to waste your time, you may as well plant some trees in the process. 7) I'm sorry you're dissappointed. Please feel free to look through my recent activity - you'll see that I'm very welcoming to questions and new members (myself not exactly being a seasoned veteran on here). I was welcomed warmly, and I hope that others continue to feel the same. As I said, my lack of content is due to the way you've given incorrect advice, without any backing, and then repeatedly questioned my comments. Writing everything out the way I did, if I'm honest, wasn't for you - it's for the benefit of all those that come across this thread in the future and need the correct advice. Hopefully, though, they're steered towards the correct information. I'm sorry you feel this forum isn't the place for you. I wish you all the best with the forums you are involved in.

They couldn’t find a leak. I’m thinking it has just leaked over time maybe? The car wasn’t really serviced in 10 years, just had oil changes. Do you think that’s at all possible? Will have a look to see if there is any dye anywhere after a few runs of the AC.

If only you could understand that the fuel pump sucks fuel from the bottom of the tank ALL THE TIME, because that's where it takes the fuel from. Where else would it be? Fuel level makes no difference. It's sprung downwards against the bottom. I'm sure I've explained this to you before.

Indeed as modern cars have a fuel loop there is that quite a big of fuel in that loop. I think the pickup for the fuel in the tank is not quite at the bottom so should not pick up the very dregs. Cavitation ie air in the system can damage fuel pump gubbins and the motor driving it. As long as lithium batteries don't drop below about 3v pet cell I think there are ok and with EVs they start throttling power and giving dash warning this is happening but the Stare of Charge indication seems to vary hugely between marques.

Diagram of coolant system on EA288, TDI engine, Simply Clever, or Simply Complicated 😆 EGR cooler has a matrix that can leak.

I have had ongoing problems with the Skoda GPS. It regularly loses lock and on several occasions has positioned the car in the middle of the Mediterranean. But it doesn't just affect the Skoda Navigation (which I wouldn't want to rely on anyway). Sometimes it tries to wrestle location control from Apple Maps and override Apple's consistently accurate location information. Eventually Apple wins, but in the meantime it reflects Skoda's inaccurate view of the world. But the issue is worse/deeper than that. When the Skoda GPS goes haywire, it looses local speed limit information, which in turn renders the ACC inoperable and road-sign recognition fails. This makes the car dangerously unsafe. The car is new, under warranty, and I'm not going to bodge a repair. I have complained several times to my Skoda dealer but because the fault is intermittent and not logged by the car, they claim that they cannot do anything about it. Needless to say, whenever I try to rock up to the dealership the car behaves itself. The electronics on these cars are not fit for purpose.

The reason I didn’t initially offer more in-depth information is because a) this wasn’t the original topic of the thread and b) the search function does exist. If you want to go more in depth about stuff you don’t understand, simply start a new thread and people will be more than happy to contribute. As with most forums, we try to avoid the hijacking of threads, where possible. As you’ll have read in the forum T&Cs, before starting a post, you’re asked to search for previous threads on the topic. Nobody asked you to be an expert on VAG, but I wasn’t walked through these things - I had to find them out myself by spending a few hours reading up on things, before speaking with dealers and independent places. I don’t know how much you know, and it would be rather time consuming to explain everything about VW in every single post. Certainly, there is a level of implied knowledge. Rather than simply questioning my sources several times, I’d maybe suggest saying “I’ve looked up XYZ, spoken to my local dealer, done my own research and I can’t find any solid information regarding the VAQ. Are you able to let me know where I can find an official source on this?”. Without knowing how much, or how little, you know - it’s very difficult to provide a complete answer. The reason there’s animosity toward you is because you’re extremely critical and questioning, but yet rather vague about your own comments. I’m not sure why this forum has an apparent reputation elsewhere. I fear, as with a new member a few weeks ago, there is an expectation for all to agree. I find Briskoda to have some of the most organic discussions I’ve seen on any forum.

A good piont, although if the electric windows (and electic sunroof) were fully closed they should be OK but doesn't hurt to reset them just in case and as a good exercise as it's so easy to do. IIRC you just push switch to fully open then to fully close and hold on the button on closed for a second or two after fully closed - but the proceddire is in the 'Owner's Manual'. After disconnecting and reconnecting the battery the only thing I can remember actually needed resting was the time of day clock.

Another thought may be if the car has a coolant valve that opens when blower is on. It may be leaking. Alasdair

The Octavia MK3 uses two different front strut diameters...50mm and 55mm The diameter of the front struts depends on what size front brake discs are fitted. The smallest 276x24mm front brake discs use the 50mm struts, whereas the other front brake discs (ie. 288x25mm, 312x25mm, 340x30mm) use the 55mm struts.

Tensions have been raised a little but personally I've not found Briskoda any different to other car forums I've been on. Which isn't a million of them, but enough for me to be happy with my own conclusions on likely custom and practise. As usual, it'll come down to interpretation and language. Occy is very detail-orientated. Not always right and he defers to greater powers but he does his research where he can. Admittedly some of the stuff he's said in his last posts weren't in his first, that's just come out in the conversation. I've not contributed much in the way of technical know-how but I've sought to get into the approximations and allusions. Can't go insinuating independents are trying to con customers (a reasonable interpretation of your money-making statement) without backing it up. In the same way you've repeatedly questioned other's sources whilst simultaneously saying you've read stuff in "multiple places". Or saying you thought Skoda were quoting as a lifetime sealed and then say "as far as Skoda sources go, I haven't found it mentioned". Tbh it reads far more like facebook commenting than an owners forum - the former is all attempts at gotcha questions and lol emojis when arguing, the latter is much more based on fact and owner's enthusiasm.

106k miles Octavia TSI VRs Estate here. all struts replaced around 100k miles. fronts were starting to leak. went for Bilstein. TBH ended up doing a overhaul of the whole suspension set up including drop links and top mounts. would echo what Indars says about Sachs quality as replaced the top mounts with Sachs as drivers side failed after a few months. as advice, the estate struts are bigger than the hatchback struts. i know this as i bought the hatch ones and they didn't fit!

Will start watching at some point. Customs did so many roles for other government departments because they were there at the frontier. A role dating back to Prince John's time The gauges, BMS, and range guessometer are looking at average lithium battery voltage i would presume but probably more sophisticated than that. I am glad Renault do as TESLA does, Nissan, Renault and TESLA have the most experience in producing EVs over the last 15 years or so. It's what you get use to I suppose. Just odd swapping from the Mini which zero is zero and Renaults where you have 15 to 30 miles left. As I mentioned the Scenic did not even give a dash warning that performance would become limited after 11 miles below 0% SoC being shown. The Mini starts ratcheting back from its 184 hp from about 20% SoC. Consistency would be nice if they could get sone agreement or EU laws dictates a standard maybe.

207k km '2016 Octy here, with beam rear axle: Rear shocks/springs/upper supports still original. Front springs replaced at 123k km (one was broken; OE>Lesjofors now). Front shocks replaced at 175k km (one was leaking; OE>Sachs now). Top supports was ok, left old/OE ones. To say more, Sachs quality is not like it was time before...one of new Sachs is wet all the time.

I prefer gauges to be accurate, relying on going below Zero may catch you out in different temperatures. or if you where to park up and come back to it for instance.

ETA: When the battery is charged you will probably still get a load of warning lighs/messages most can be got rid of with the following method - start the engine let it run for about 30 seconds so you can look and hear everything is OK with the engine running, turn on the air-con, blower and headlights then turn the steering wheel to full lock both ways (no need to stran this) this will let the very dumb computers know the battery is better then turn of the auir-con, blower, headlights as required if needed, because a warning remains, or wanted, go for a drive, this should clear any remaing warnings. HTH.

Why VW bought shares in Suzuki to get their knowledge of small capacity engines, and Fiat and Mitsubishis of turbos and superchargers. As they colaberated. The night the VW defeat device scandal broke, Suzuki bought back their final shares. With money lent by Toyota. The other small engjne experts.

That will be them, I got it wrong. They have an ebay shop. I felt the need to add/suggest PIM as I messed up and grabbed a new Bosch ABS sensor from ECP to save money, and didn’t save so much, so going forward I’ve bought from PIM, very fast delivery!

i just tried to search for them, Car Parts in Motion is in the Netherlands, but there is Partsinmotion based in Exeter thats a parts webshop

Have a look at the "Hub nut" thread in the Rapid section, I posted a link there for a suitable tool if your bearing is a 72mm one. I bought a cheap Chinese kit and it worked well, just make sure that you use Moly grease on the forcing screw. I played safe and bought a set of similar length pins from a Sealey tools site online - these can get seen as being consumables so for the Sealey kits they provide spares, and these Chinese kits are not a lot away from being copies of whatever Sealey copied! So I can't vouch for the strength of the forcing pins, everything else worked fine, these bearings can need quite a bit of force to get them out, I got the first side (LHS) out of the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 288mm discs okay without damaging the ABS sensor, but I cracked the one on the RHS, I think that it was the build up of rust scale that caused that to happen on that side, you'll probably side that removing the wheel sensor intact is not going to happen, CarPartsInMotion sell Bosch ABS sensors for not much money, from memory the 2015 VW Polo uses 4 different ones!! Each shaped to suit its location - my 2011 Audi S4 uses only 2 different ones, which is more useful. Removing the seized ABS sensors:- I just drill down into them, screw in a long MDF screw through a slide hammer attachment for pulling car panels, and yank them out, they also can require quite a bit of force as I discovered when removing one from my 2011 Audi S4 - for the 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, once the drive shaft was out of the way I just hammered a drift in from the lower end, though if I was to repeat that job, I'd just use a screw and slide hammer. Edit:- if you have any difficulty working out which bits to use when in these kits, just ask the question as I'm sure that I will have made a note of how I used it! I probably only read most of the online content covering using these kits many times before maning up and using it!

In the interests of science, I tested this today while changing my carbon activated filter. Air Care will activate and set with no filter present in the car at all. It also runs with a standard pollen filter, as I have one that was supplied incorrectly and I was told to keep it while they sent out the correct filter that was ordered. I’d say a fault is likely due to whatever mixer flap they use to isolate the system through the pollen filter while the setting is activated. Never had to look into it, so that’s just a best guess scenario.

Sorry but is this a joke?

Try unplugging the MAF sensor. If it changes, try plugging it back in and see what happens. The maf may be dying or possibly it was disconnected and not plugged back in fully causing bad sensor info to be sent to the ECU causing the revs the hunt

Exactly this. Something like an EA855 (2.5 I5) isn’t necessarily designed to be more robust, but it’s designed to take high strain and be as reliable as possible. It’s not designed with economy or cost saving in mind, really. A 1.0 is a small economy engine, so is designed to be built as cheaply as possible - if you try putting more power through it, you’ll just have issues. It’s the same with the DSG, unfortunately. Save your money, and spend the time on something more capable!

Lots of jorno's have now been in a late model prototype and even some have been in the virtually finished car. The one thing that is repeated is the ride is sublime and the car doesn't want for performance. Perhaps the Jag strengths of Power, handling and refinement are still alive. I certainly gives me a lot more hope for the brand than I had earlier, even if it won't sell that many in the UK

Hopefully its a one of and glad the warranty covered it. Weird how older cars like mine seem to get to 100k before wheel bearing etc goes but a new part doesnt last nearly as long. Reckon your right with older cars being better built and parts better quality. My old garage I used to use said that if they have had to use heat on wheel hubs to remove bolt its guaranteed that that bearing will be next to fail. They were spot on as they had changed front broken spring on my old Octavia and 3 months later bearing failed. They only used heat as they couldn't move bolt even with a 5 foot bar and were worried it would snap. Alasdair

A useful tagline that serves to alert you that the following wall of text is likely complete cobblers. * Other "experts" are available.

@Vladimir2708 I'm sorrry but I don't know the solution to patch your unit.

I thought it would be useful to create this separate topic and collate information as now Infotainment Software Version 1969 is out in the wild I imagine user interest will increase. All credit to those who posted information in other threads - I hopefully have credited you all where necessary. Feel free to comment on your own experiences and observations. Despite saying I was going to wait for this update to come OTA, based on the principle of “If it ain’t broken….” I bit the bullet and applied the 1969 update manually this morning (I'm a sucker for an update). All went very smoothly and took around 20 minutes. Seems an obvious point but to put your car in ignition mode, which you need to do to apply the update, just press the Start Stop button on its own, without depressing the Clutch / Brake which you would do if you were starting the engine I also switched off the climate control before proceeding although I imagine the Update process would disable its functioning anyway. I followed a previous guide for version 1941 by @TheWanderer which was invaluable. I highly recommend watching the YouTube video in the instructions as you are updating as it is a useful reference of the stages your system is going through. I have copied and pasted his guide below but it’s not my work, full credit to @TheWanderer for this: Create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM. Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. https://youtu.be/4AsSbGd3caU

Fwiw, hopefully a regas will recover it. I have my AC serviced roughly every two years by an really good mobile independent. He checks gas weight, vacuums it out to remove any moisture, adds fresh PAG oil too as required. I do 12k miles per annum, use the climate all the time and it looses about 10% of the gas naturally between service visits. It's not leaking. Got my wife a 2019 Seat Ateca last year that only had 11k miles on it from new, full dealer history but AC had never been serviced, gas weight was at ~40% of what it should have been when he came to do service on it for mE. Best thing for any AC is use it regularly and service it, my cars now at 120k miles and the AC is still excellent.

I removed my drivers side for the ticket clip and then the passenger side for the dashcam. Let’s begin! I’ve attached a photo of the spring clip. There are two of these that hold the pillar trim in place - one at the top and one at the bottom. They just slide into the trim, so can be easily replaced. You can see there is are initial barbs that you have to engage into the slots in the pillar itself, before pushing it home to seat the rest of it. You’ll want to order some spare ones, as they are technically single use. The part number is 8P0 867 276. The trim also has two plastic locating pins, and then slots into the side of the dashboard. It’s pretty obvious to see if it’s not correct. First, you’ll want to carefully slide some fingers underneath the top of the pillar trim. You’re being careful so to avoid crushing the headliner in the process. Then, you want to pull the trim directly off the pillar - you’ll need to be standing outside the car for this. Slide your fingers behind the trim a few inches so that you are closer to the location of the topmost clip, otherwise you risk deforming the plastic. Once you’ve popped it out (it does take some force), you’ll begin to wonder why you bothered - it won’t be out all the way, and the bottom one will remain in place. Fear not - the slot in the pillar trim is stepped. Carefully repeat the process for the bottom clip, getting it halfway out. At this point you can use the steps to your advantage, and slide the pillar trim upwards, along the a pillar. This will move the clips from the narrower part of the stepped slot (where they’re meant to sit) and into the wider part (that allows for their removal). You won’t be able to get the clips out without sliding it up, as the barbs will keep it in place. It’ll need a bit of sliding, pulling and swearing, but it will come off. Make sure you’re standing outside the car and looking at it through the windscreen - it’s easier. The ticket holder will be attached to the pillar at the bottom. It’s a single black plastic fitting - I want to say it’s a bolt, but it may be one of those crappy plastic plug things. Either way, take it out! There’s no cut out in the pillar trim, for it. I removed mine in 2024 and have had no issues. To put it the trim back on, first replace the clips. As I said, they simply slide out of their slots in the trim. Also take two seconds to make sure the airbag wires are clear of the slots. @Warrior193 I cloth taped my entire dashcam cable and carefully affixed it to the airbag cable wire, behind the airbag. Seat the trim at the bottom, sliding it into the side of the dashboard - don’t worry about the clips or anything. Then, you’ll want the sun or a torch to shine through the windscreen and show you where the clips are in relation to the slots. Locate them, being mindful of the plastic locating prongs (they go into the holes). You want the clips to be in the narrower part of the slots - no sliding at this point. Noting where the clips are on the trim, carefully tap these points to get the barbs in. I say carefully - start with a slap and you’ll probably end up lightly hitting it with your fist. Again, as long as it’s over the location of the clips, you’re fine. It takes quite a bit of force. Once these barbs are engaged, all that’s left to do is firmly push the trim home, at the top and bottom clips. I’m careful what I say and do on a public forum. If either of you would like to PM me, I’d be happy to send a video on my car over email, along with the relevant sections of the workshop manual (as useless as it was). If you want to run a dashcam, you need to remove the trim for safety reasons. While it won’t stop the airbag deploying, that dashcam cable needs to be behind the airbag - otherwise when it deploys, you’ll get whipped in the face with a broken dashcam cable.

Tere 😀 look to B6, part codes you will find in links of my signature

To be fair to OP, the reversing light wouldn't be particularly visible from that approach angle in daylight. I believe the onus is fully on the reversing vehicle to ensure way is clear before moving.

Some New Philips Ultinon Pro 9200 H1 in headllghts. Old ones Ultinon extreme out-one was gine, and they have much lager vent on the rear and that small box which new ones doesnt have and are much slimmer.

Karoq 1.5 TSI booked in for 5 year cam-belt change, car left at dealer. Two days later get a message that the cam-belt change is not required due to change in the Guidance removing the 5 year interval. It is now 15 years or 180k miles. I asked for copy of the change and they gave me the attached document for my records. Collected car, no work and no bill. Cam Belt Guidance change.pdf

I should have added that my thinking was that, at 15 years old, the cost of a cam-belt change would be more than the car was worth.

There are threads on this forum where people have retro fitted the filler lid. There are ones where the Simply Clever features are then deleted from later models, like torches. Then there are features like door protectors that break easily and Dealerships are not interested just as Skoda are not. There are Journalists tickled pink when the Ice Scrapper / Window scratcher is in the Filler flap. They obviously have never been frozen out of a filler flap. There are those that are still wondering why their umbrella or umbrellas were missing at handover.