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In case anyone finds this looking for an answer. Having changed the IAT sensor and other things the P0111 fault returned along with start-stop error. I thought the next thing to try was the battery, as I read somewhere that low voltage could cause P0111.. So, I replaced the battery with a new one and unfortunately the EPC fault returned. I was about to give up and take the car to a garage when I found a Polish YouTube video that showed that on the 1.0 TSI there are actually two air temp sensors; one on top of the engine and one on the side towards the battery. I had changed the one on the top and it had made no difference. Hence, I refitted the old sensor there and fitted the new sensor (same part number) to the side of the engine. Since then, the EPC P0111 fault and stop start error have not returned (2 weeks). I hope this helps someone.

Hi, I’m Paul. I have just bought a 2020 Fabia colour match in race blue. I thought I would join to help me learn about the car and get help from the online community. Hopefully I’ll be able to help too… we have a few VAG vehicles in the family! I came here to find out about a few little niggles that I want to sort out and also to ask a few questions and see what mods some of you have done to improve performance and looks.

Replaced original wheel without DSG paddles today. I hardly used them and I would rather a proper fitting airbag!

Hello everyone. Firstly I apologise if I have posted this in the wrong section 😞. My name is Owen I'm 53 and from North west England. I've just become the proud owner of a 2012 Octavia Vrs Dsg petrol . It's done 120k but it's been fastidiously maintained by it's previous keepers . I was given a huge ream of paperwork with the car . It's a hatch and it's blue . Not sure of the exact manufacturer colour name yet . The car is completely standard but I'm planning on a remap for both engine and box . I'm not going too far with it (honest!) I'm looking at revo for the map as I'm told there are switchable maps available. I try to do my own work on my cars but ill health has been making this a struggle recently. As I said apologies if I've posted this incorrectly, perhaps a mod could assist. I look forward to chatting with people and solving those problems that communities like this are great at . Best wishes Owen

Quick shot in the field, i did drag my sideskirts on the ground just a bit 😁

Could it be the thriving part worn tyre market is fed by 'unrepairable' tyres changed at repair centres? Perhaps I am being over cynical, but I recently took a nearly new tyre in for repair where the puncture was caused by a nail well within the tread pattern (not near an edge at all,) to be told I needed a new tyre. I queried this as the tyre had not been run flat (TPM warning had prevented this,) and was told the angle of entry of the offending nail prevented repair. I asked to see the tyre, and where the entry had been 'opened up' ready for a repair the angle did not seem out of the ordinary to me. Following a discussion with the repair man he agreed to effect a repair - I assume he would not have done so if it was not legal! No problems whatsoever with the tyre since. Make of that what you will. Trevor M

So, The Octavia 3 only received the Blind Spot Assist with the facelift. That means it uses the 5Q generation control unit. Of course, I'm not installing anything like that. Therefore, I'm using the OEM 5Q0 radar mounts with the 3D-printed adapters, just like @Lutz91 did in his Superb. The OEM LED is integrated into the mirror glass, but I'm definitely not going back to that solution. Through a bit of luck and some internet research, I discovered that another Volkswagen Group vehicle also uses the same Octavia 3 mirror caps. This vehicle has the Blind Spot Assist from the factory with a version integrated into the mirror caps. Thanks to @Lutz91 for finding the details. So, I ordered a set of primed left and right mirror caps from the aftermarket, just to test them. VW charges €75 each, but I paid €35 for both aftermarket caps in Spain, plus a few euros for shipping home. Thanks to @Lutz91 for the detailed research. The following parts are required: Control units: 2Q0907686B 2Q0907685B Sedan mounting bracket: 5E5907455A 5E5907456A LED headlight washer mirror caps: 565949145 565949146 Exterior mirror caps To be added if the correct parts are available Wiring harness: From my supplier in the Far East... 3D printer adapters for left and right

Kia ev4 march 26 £25,500 inc fees

A piggyback fuse holder on the 12v power socket fuse is probably the best place, I would think a very low risk of voiding the warranty, it would have to be proven that what you did caused the malfunction.

It was, my friend had in his audi q3 from 2019 when his online subscription run out.

Just checked my Amazon account and the reference number is slightly different. Should be A864S 👍

Because its been replaced with connected services. TMC you had to wait for the slot for the data to be sent out, connected services you just get it. No waiting. None of the mib3 / 4 cars since 2020 support TMC so that 5 year rules got the transmission of the data 🫣.

Oh damn I completely forgot to say it was a DSG, it’s been a long year my friend. Thanks for letting me know

Cool thank you. Not many options looking online! 👍👍

Changed the front brake discs and pads this morning to try and finally cure the brake wobble. Seems ok so far but let’s give it 200 miles or so to reappear like it did before. All went without drama using the excellent @Bap33 guide Here. I also swapped back to my standard wheel without paddles. For the small amount of instances that I used the paddles I would rather have an airbag that fits properly! So if anyone wants a round leather wheel without DSG paddles that fits the newer style airbag, I have one for sale!

No, they're different fasteners. There are three smaller screws that hold the bearing pack to the aluminium upright. Those are "a" - the "70 Nm plus 90 degrees" ones. Then there's the big M16 x 1.5mm screw that goes through the wheelbearing and into the end of the driveshaft. That's "b" - the "200 Nm plus 180 degrees" one. To be honest, both felt "about right" when I was tightening them.

Wheel alignment was a long way out, may explain tyre wear. Replaced with Goodyear Eagle F1, will see how they get on.

Update folks. It's fixed! There was nothing wrong with my ABS sensor, the problem was indeed the magnetic ring on the inside face of the outer bearing race. The "bits of plastic" I thought I could see when looking down the hole for the ABS sensor were exactly that. The dark brown curve at the top of the photo is all that remained of a complete ring - basically, a glorified fridge magnet, that just sticks to the inner face of the outer bearing race and rotates with the wheel. Little inclusions within the thickness of the plastic, generate the fluctuating signal for the sensor. It should be a complete circle of brown material and as you can see, half of mine is missing. I'm now left wondering how far gone the other three are...☹️

Perfect timing posting that, thank you! I thought the 45 degree jet was caused by a partial blockage and this afternoon's job was going to be to clean it out!

Update on this issue . Water coolant leak . Changed the water pump and car is out of limp mode . Still randomly reving . Suspected pcv valve now . Waiting on parts . I will keep you posted

Got it booked in a week mon for door lock recall thingy

A cob is most certainly a big ask, mine is opposite end of that spectrum, only a mini so maybe ! Just wondering if anyone has experience in general towing with the karaq , good or bad? Car is OK but at 80kph iy keeps telling me to go into 6th and as soon as I di it has a s*** attack . So its 80 in 5th with constant reminder to go unto 6th or 6th at 90 kph.

Ur not supposed to take anything out of the mib2 folder. Just copy, once extracted, all the folders as is, including the mib1 folder plus the other files. The root folder is meant to have 2 folders (mib1 and mib2) and 1 file (metainfo2.txt). If anything is missing from the extract, the checksum will b incorrect and the update will never b successful.

Ok thanks, I won't be doing that then.

It has taken some time to get around to actually swapping the parts however I have just successfully replaced the once gloss black (but when I got the car already quite scratched) trim pieces to the "carbon" ones. 5E4 853 190 A YI2 -> 5E4 853 190 A 9NL (small piece) 5E4 853 192 C YI2 -> 5E4 853 192 C 9NL (big piece) (old part number -> new part number) As you can see from the above, the A & C are indeed revision numbers, the YI2 and 9NL are represent the finish. YI2 being gloss black, 9NL being the carbon-look finish and there's also JO8 which is the haptic squares grey one. In one of my previous screenshots you will find more options, however I have not seen any of them for sale (I bought the only 9NL I could find in my country at parts traders, and have not seen the gloss black for sale once). They could be available through a Skoda dealer. Removal was quite stressful however also quite doable in the end, I would really recommend being thorough and taking your time if you'd like to do the same. The small strip has two clips while the bigger one had 8 (I think). See the pictures to get an idea, the arrows point to the clips. I used plastic trim removal tools and a cloth to not damage the quite soft plastic below the strips and worked on the bottom along their length to loosen the clips. (DO NOT try to insert the trim piece from the direction of the arrows!!!). Once they go, they'll either click out, at which point I am always scared they'd break, or be half loose. Once the whole piece is loosened, go around and again and try to pull of the piece. Be careful to not bend it too much and be cautious of where you put the trim removal tools to aim besides the tabs. The connectors for the leds are pretty self explanatory. Installation is even more simple, plug in the led connectors and align the trim piece. Push in, check it's attached fully everywhere, job done. I am not a professional, this information can be used as reference however as always at your own risk.

As far I'm aware none of the car manufacturers advertising TMC as part of navigation system when you add it to your car while placing order, instead they offer free trial of online services which are paid after free trial period.

I agree, but I had an issue every day; now I don't have one, strange.

Few more random bits. Got some wiper blades ages ago as replacements, and was about to fit them: Only to discover I've bought more universal ones, i.e. the ones with a hook, which aren't the right ones for the Skoda! Bit annoyed, as I've replaced them before so should have double checked. £35.99 wasted. I'll put it into the miscellaneous expenses. Welp, decided to crack on with something else: So the washer jets were starting to be a little weird, so decided to muster up and just get genuine ones to replace several attempts at cheaper ones. You can see the part numbers, 3V0 955 987A and 3V0 955 988A, for left and right respectively. They were £21.77 each from lllparts, so £43.54, so a bit of a kick in the proverbials. They look identical, but after some perusing through the workshop manual: They apparently shoot a fan, a straight one vertically, and also some at a 45 degree to the side! I've always wondered what the actual correct adjustment for them were, so there it is, the top vertical spray should go somewhere in the top 20cm of the windscreen! Once fitted, and with the car running, the vertical jet was somewhere above halfway, so had to get to adjusting them. The genuine ones need a T8 torx to do so, and in my case, turned about 100 degrees anti clockwise to get them upwards. That, and a good wipe of the existing wiper blades seems to be ok, so no rush to replace the wiper blades. Another random thing whilst changing oil a week ago: The stupid dipstick decided to have one of its prongs snap and fly away! Not the end of the world really, but decided to source a replacement. Until it turns out there doesn't seem to be many online, and it looks to be £27 new. Maybe I should have driven to a scrapyard and gotten any which would have been sufficient, but decided: To get one of those aftermarket dipstick handles, in this case, Bevinsee? It's the sort of tat I usually don't go for, but given it was £15.59, decided why not. Amusingly, the only Youtube video I've seen about how to actually fit this involved someone using a vice to essentially crush the original plastic handle to get to the metallic dipstick underneath. I don't have a vice, so went overboard: So put the poor thing under the press, donned my safety glasses, and went to it: The handle literally flew off stage left, I don't know where it's gone. Leaving slightly bent metallic remains and the above plastic mess. Just got some pliers to bend it back slightly, and then its inserted into the new dipstick handle. The world's smallest allen key and grub screws are used to tighten the dipstick to the handle, and some o-rings are put in place, and there we are: Hopefully I don't jinx it by mentioning whether it'll come loose or whatever, but it'll do. Next time I order anything from lllparts or skoda-parts I'll consider a replacement dipstick. The heatshields around the exhaust at the rear are really rattling like buggery now, so I'll probably have to find a spare moment to muster how to actually sort that out, given the exhaust will need cutting or separating (which will probably also involve cutting given the rust and what not). Maintenance: £3487.58 (+£43.54) Upgrades: £5512.06 (+£15.59) Miscellaneous: £863.46 (+£35.99)

@enoktakenokta , have you seen this? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/434028-tire-pressure-monitoring-system/

Welp, the infotainment is offering 03A8 update on my late 2023 Octavia every time I turn the car on. I don't want to. I don't need it. It's going to mess things up. Bugger off, Škoda, and stop behaving like a Stellantis product. 😖

Hi, I was looking for the latest firmware update for my Scala (MIB3 Bolero). I had problems where the unit would sometimes reboot by itself spontaneously. The Bolero had the following system details: SW Train: MEN3_EU_SK370_P2345L MU SW: 1790 I didn't want to take the risk of bricking the unit, so I made an appointment with the dealership. They told me that they weren't sure if an update would fix the problem, but they were happy to diagnose it for me. So I left the car yesterday at the dealership and they gave me a rental car. This morning, I got a call that the car was ready. They diagnosed that the unit had faulty software on it. They replaced it with the correct software with MU SW: 1800. I didn't had to pay anything, it was free of charge, and I gave the rental car back. Now the unit is working flawlessy. Kudos to the dealership and Skoda Netherlands.

I understand that, but it just seems like a slightly pointless exercise - unless for some reason you already have paint matched A4 side skirts. There are options that require no modification, headache and hassle to fit!

Apologies. I sent a dm with link to my google drive with manuals in. I don’t want to share that too publically. But here is the info: The wiring diagrams list where components are in the car. The controller is referred to as J605 The internal body manual shows how to remove trims.

Not sure about the first locking but all subsequent lockings where because you unlocked it but didn't open the door.

All the 5s on the Octavia. Unfortunately, I missed it with the Vauxhall Omega.

In case anyone finds this thread at a later date, I got quoted £1718 for the OEM retractable towbar fitted at my local main dealer, DM Keith.

The problem with misinformation is that it may not be actual misinformation but factual information based in information that is not yet general knowledge.

I've had a rusting bearing wreck an ABS wheel sensor, it was on my 2011 Audi S4, for a few years prior to this failure, I could hear a slight scraping noise, initially only using that car after it had been left unused for a few weeks, then after maybe a mile or so, that noise stopped. Then it never stopped - then when driving it out of the garage to go for its MOT, the ABS etc lights came on, game over! So, what I discovered is, that all the bigger VW Group cars do not have any protection built in for the, at least, front, ABS sensor from road grit etc - small cars like Polo/Fabia/Ibiza have a plastic shroud to help avoid this to an extent. What does help, I discovered, is that if the wheel bearings "bleed" out a very small amount of the oil in the wheel bearings, hub and bearing inner face rusting is not normally an issue, if the wheel bearings do not "bleed" out any of the oil from the wheel bearing grease, then hub inner face and bearing face rusting can be an issue, especially when combined with only using that car periodically in winter weather. After getting the ABS sensor replaced by the MOT garage, I removed the new ABS sensor, cleaned its hole in the hub carrier out, then used a piece of dowelling cut at what I thought was a suitable angle and forced that down to contact the inner face of the wheel bearing - then rotated the wheel a few times in both directions, then applied lots of ceramic grease to the ABS sensor and refitted it. I examined the new ABS only a few days/miles after my MOT garage had replaced it, and it too had started to show signs of scoring - from contacting the rust on the bearing inner surface, so I'd expect that that new ABS sensor would have only lasted a few thousand miles if I had not cleaned up the inner face of the bearing. Getting access to that inner face to do a proper job on your car will involve removing the drive shaft - if you want to avoid a repeat of this issue. As said, you need to drive the car to clear the stored faults in some of the controllers even although you have removed the fault and cleared the ABS controller fault code.

They look good. I had the boot and rear quarter windows tinted earlier this week, on top of the existing factory tint. I would have have considered those but not heard of them before.

Alright, first things first, feedback after a little over a week with the TVS Stage 2+ tune! For someone who mainly does city driving, it’s been a massive improvement. Since it’s almost always a gear lower than the stock logic, the car is much more responsive to your throttle input. It hovers closer to 1800-2000rpm during city driving, meaning there isn’t much of a delay when attempting to make a quick overtake at low speeds. There’s no downside in terms of fuel consumption or noise, it’s merely closer to how you’d drive a manual car without lugging the engine. As you get to ~90km/h, you’re back in 7th gear as you would’ve been before. Shifts are slightly quicker, and 1-2 shifts when cold are seamless. I went with the following options: 1st gear disengaged, manual kick down disabled, auto-downshift deactivation in manual mode, and of course, gear indicator enabled. If you’re not planning on upping the power however, the drivability tune will get you most of the way there and you definitely won’t be disappointed. I’ve confirmed that the Revo sale is applicable at my local dealer and I’ll be there in a couple of days for a Stage 1 flash.

When choosing aftermarket shock absorbers, it's best to first get the OEM part numbers of the original factory fitted shock absorbers. Aftermarket shock absorbers usually have a list of OEM part numbers that they are being sold to replace. Often this list is very long, in which case the aftermarket shock absorber might not be a close match to the original...ie. a one size fits all approach. With the Octavia MK3 VRS it might be best to go for original Skoda shock absorbers...that way the shock absorbers will be what Skoda intended. Price is around twice that of OE quality aftermarket shock absorbers such as Bilstein B4, Sachs, KYB, etc. An alternative to genuine Skoda shock absorbers is Bistein B6/B8. These have a superior mono-tube design rather than the usual twin-tube design of most other shock absorbers. Bilstein B6/B8 shock absorbers might not cost much more than genuine Skoda shock absorbers. The factory OEM part numbers for the shock absorbers can be found on the "skoda parts com" website by setting up an account and putting the car's VIN number in the online garage. Then when genuine Skoda shock absorbers are searched for, only the correct OEM part numbers are shown.

In the UK, the Octavia MK3 VRS has lowered ride height not standard ride height. In some European countries with a lot of snow in the winter, it might have been possible to order the Octavia MK3 VRS from the factory with standard ride height. The Bilstein B8 shock absorbers are aimed at VAG cars with a nominal 15mm lower ride height than standard ride height. Bilstein B8 shock absorbers are about 20mm shorter than Bilstein B6 shock absorbers. Bilstein B8 are chosen for short springs such as Eibach Pro and Eibach Sport because they are 20mm shorter than Bilstein B6, not because they are optimized for springs that are shorter than VAG's lowered ride height springs. Bilstein optimize Bilstein B8 for VAG's lowered ride height springs, not Eibach Pro/Sport springs, etc. Bilstein B6 and Bilstein B8 shock absorbers have the same damping characteristics.

As some of you have probably realized I'm crazy about converting factory radio / navigation into Android tablet. To be more detailed: in adding Android tablet functionality into factory radio / navigation system. First time I made in in my Superb II MY12 with Columbus. Second time I added this feature to Bolero in my Fabia III. And now I have adopted Amundsen MIB STD2 infotainment system (from new Yeti) to be used in the same Superb (I was a bit tired with Columbus) and equipped wit with Android 4.4.4 module. Disadvantage 1 - you have to change gateway (as this system has address 5F which cannot be coded in old gateway) Disadvantage 2 - you have to find somebody who will take care of Component Protection which is not so common yet Disadvantage 3 - you have to buy SD card with maps (goodbye old good days of updating maps at no cost in Columbus) Disadvantage 4 - no climatronic visualisation Disadvantage 5 - no CD/DVD reader Advantage 1 - something new in the old car Advantage 2 - it has built-in bluetooth Advantage 3 - reverse camera can be connected without any adapters Advantage 4 - you can probably activate and use MirrorLink/AndroidAuto (probably as I have not checked it yet) And it's way easier to extend it with Android table funcionality comparing to old Columbus. I will post some pictures and videos next week.

Are you by any chance related to Rush Limbaugh, Graham?

@Breezy_Pete I read after you mentioned. But there is no sensor which send info to car's system.