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I’ve just had revo stage 1 on my 23 VRs dsg petrol Wish I had it done ages ago Apart from the power, it’s a a much better car to drive feels a lot smoother As the tuner said it takes away all the fluffiness’s

I’ve brought a camera kit from AliExpress and will be fitting soon I can code and remove SFD Done a few Audis So this should be easy

If the A5 has mib2 high then he needs this project: GitHubGitHub - Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._More-Incredible-Bash: M.I.B. -...M.I.B. - More Incredible Bash - The Army knife for Harman MIB 2.x aka MHI2(Q) units - Mr-MIBonk/M.I.B._More-Incredible-Bash There are videos. Booboo here came that way. Audi folk have the same deal as Seat folk. Have to shift to life time navigation FeCs. Mib1 no new updates. Mib3 tricky as DIY you have to find a retrofitter although it may have the same deal as Seat now life long FeCs but being an import needs to switch to RoW FeCs from European. That link gives a pdf with RoW mib2 FeCs. I did come across a table that's shows everything. Ah Mib3 someone had put this together. https://www.scribd.com/document/814367576/FEC-All-Available-SWaP

Thanks. I’ll PM you, Keith. 👍🏻

"on the flat" sorry i never typed ground.

Auttaako tämä?

I know what you mean about imported vehicles; a friend of mine has a couple of A5s, one NZ new and one a UK import. He’s given up on getting maps into the import. As to download speed, I’ve had fibre for over ten years. The speed was fluctuating between 900kbps and 2600 mbps, mostly being around 1800. Our fibre uptake is such that our copper network is being turned off within the next couple of years. The country bumpkins will have to use 5G or Elon Musk. Ugh. What screen do you want a photo of?

Hi. If your son needs any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line. Regards, Dan.

But I can install an aftermarket detachable towbar with the 5E3055202B wiring harness without adding a button, since it’s a manual version. I can't find one for the 2021 RS from Skoda, and the dealership says it's not possible. With this harness, do I simply plug it into the connectors located behind the trunk trim? Is there nothing that needs to be run to the front? And then it just needs coding, right? Does anyone have a tutorial or photos? Thanks.

And on flat ground.

Just important to know where when Stone Cold and no engine started and also where that is as per Skoda Oil Check, at normal operating temp after stopped a few minutes on the flat. Then you can always be sure enough oil in before a trip amd not needing to get oil while on one.

I'll be keeping a closer eye on the oil levels than I used to. I do check the oil but not every day. I'll be doing it more often now.

Yeah was almost full, was my first check

The car was driven 15 miles back to my place and all seemed ok. I checked the oil and it was showing about and ¾ on the dipstick. I'm thinking that is ok.

So was there plenty of washer fluid because all cars do not have a low fluid warning?

They might well try the no perforation route as per usual. But to them the hole might not be visible, but when you get to grinding down the paint there are tiny perforations in the metal. It is just not a hole through the paint YET. Which is why a new panel is the correct repair. SKODA_Warranty_Terms_August_2021_New_Car-1.pdf

Hi everyone, I have a 2012 Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI 170 DSG, FWD, 250,000 km with an annoying clunk from the front, felt mostly through the floor. It happens when accelerating, releasing the throttle, braking or sometimes cornering. It usually clunks once when the load changes direction. I can also reproduce it while driving in N and braking. The problem gets progressively worse after driving a few kilometers. It can be almost absent when starting cold, then becomes more frequent and noticeably stronger after 10–15 km. There are no vibrations while driving, but when the clunk happens, I can clearly feel the knock through my feet/floor. Both front driveshafts have just been replaced with GKN units, with no change at all. DSG/differential and engine mounts have already been checked by workshops. My next suspects are front control arm bushes or subframe movement. Has anyone experienced something similar? Thanks! Xavier, Switzerland

Hello my friend. It was really normal or u had problems later?

Hi Rob, According to Auto Doc they are the correct Pads. Not a fan of Evri but we can give it a try. Paypal would be ok for an inclusive price of £61.00 for Pads and Delivery. Not sure about the procedure but you can please let me know. Keith

Probably already a topic thread somewhere but I thought I would share. My washers stopped working without and indication of a low water level. I checked fuse 42 behind the glove box, all fine there. Still no pump action, wheel off and inner arch off, no visible issues but I couldn’t get the connections off so put back together. Car is under warranty so it’s going back in for a diagnostics. Might be because the headlight washers are controlled by the BCM on a high voltage circuit? Anyone else had similar?

Yep - still there on our July 24 SEL.....

It is ridiculous. The rust has only just started. It hasn't been serviced by Skoda for the last few years but even if it had they wouldn't have spotted the rust nearly a year before it appeared.

If it has trailer prep then the wiring to the control module & to the switch is already present

No in Germany. Well, we were ordering but decided against the Kamiq and picked up an Ateca yesterday. No idea why the electric seat option isn't available in the UK 🤷 Cheers for the reply though, appreciated 👍