All Activity

Did you ever get sorted? Did you need to replace the arm?

How has your fix held up? £65 is a lot for that arm and clips, they charge same for two washers instead of the arm as a "repair kit for the wastegate rattle" ..... https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/05e198701a-turbocharger-repair-kit-skoda-52738.html I don't know why they give three clips, is it maybe to feel less scammy after charging crazy money.... Did you need to do calibrate anything afterwards? Cheers

Thanks for this. Does indeed show when fuel consumption is in the centre display. Shame Skoda discontinued showing the icon along the top or bottom screen rows as in my previous karoqs.

So, now it is resolved, it is time to tell the saga of my MIB2 to MIB2.5 upgrade. Its something I had ummed and ahhed about for some time, but a cheap scrfeen caught my eye on eBay. £150 was too good to pass up. So it was promptly ordered along with a fresh SD card. All files we're downloaded and prepared as per the github and @JR RS guide. I very nearly bought myself a new battery charge from Amazon but thought I would save a few pennies and I borrowed a battery charger from a neighbour. This I think was the major mistake of this story! One evening I set to work. All seemed to be going well. Progress was happening as it should and the new screen was swapped in. And then... Dammit. That looked catastrophic. But this screen is expected (without as much additional info I must note) and all you have to do is press skip. But the screen did not respond. The MIB unit fans were running flat out and it wouldnt turn off, reboot or anything. Hard reset pulling the fuse just brought me straight back to here. In the time I was pulling about scratching my head thinking of what to do next, all the lights went out.... The borrowed battery charger from the neighbour just wasn't up to the job of keeping the battery topped up. (The only root cause for the error I can fathom is that at some point during the flashing, the voltage reduced to a point that power dropped from the MIB at a crucial moment.) My inital thought process was that the screen was faulty as the digitizers can be fickle. So this screen was returned and the next cheapest screen sourced. A few days later when it arrived I plugged it in and....nothing, straight back to this screen. So I then reached out to the Guru that is @pab567. And I must say the service and support I received was second to none. He guided me through connecting via UART so that he could remote access to me to try to reflash the unit. No joy. The EEPROM just couldnt be communicated with. So the unit was packaged up and sent to Poland for some open heart surgery. Unfortunately this was not successful, having successfully recovered the RCC, the MMX recovery failed. And direct programming of the EEPROM also failed and it was deemed uneconomical to repair. ☹️ PAB sourced a second hand native MIB2.5 skoda unit locally to him for signicantly cheaper than I could source in the UK, and for a very reasonable fee prepared it to be plug and play for my car. This was delivered today and we are now back up and running. The final piece was to install the alternative trim panel to close in the gap above the screen. This was sourced from eBay. I popped a bit of the current trim off to find the colour code and managed to find a match for a pretty reasonable price. Note the part numbers are 3V2858418E for no ambient lighting and 3V2858418F with ambient lighting. THe following 3 digits are the colour code, in my case NF8. So the moral of the story is, don't cheap out on not buying a battery charger, check the state of charge before starting, and dont try to do software flashes in the dark!

Hi, its the rear bush which is virtually bolt on apparently, i have two coming.

How did you get on? I was about to post same thing. The repair kit is currently 70euro, whereas the kit with actuator rod and without the washers is 50 euro.....why three clips I don't know?

Trying to get bolt out that goes through bush of swing arm to consol bracket and its a nightmare. Was very stiff and creaky when first undone slightly so been soaking it in everything I got and managed to get it out so far but its seizing if I try anymore. Can wind it back in again but seem to have hit a spot it wont come out any further and dont want to strip alloy threads. So far been soaked in wd40, penetrating oil, Diesel/ATF mix and engine oil with white spirit and its not making any difference. Does anyone have any ideas. Been at it for hours. Tried some heat with a heat gun but wary of propane torch as its a petrol car and I have a lot of lubricant everywhere. Was thinking of removing consol bracket and soaking but swing arm bolt goes through subframe so wouldnt be able tor remove complete without removing subframe. Any help or pointers welcome. Alasdair

Thanks. I'll have a dig about in the settings

All up and running with a new plug and play unit sourced from @pab567 .

Managed to finish the upgrade of MIB2 to MIB 2.5 today having managed to completely brick my original MIB. Thanks to @pab567 for providing a replacement plug and play unit. Cannot fault the service!

I did this in mine a while ago to replace the rubber one with the polyurethane one, you need an extractor especially to mount the new one I've used this set of extractor https://www.ebay.de/itm/127947685719?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&_ul=DE&amdata=enc%3A1vNRjCVhZTJeWGY5yCkPgFw8&campid=5339018407&mkcid=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&rb_itemId=127947685719&rb_pgeo=DE&toolid=10044&var=0&var=0&ff=11&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=707-53477-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw88HWBhA3EiwAo2Zd6EfRqVAwVKGTjXpwKwCi9B8HD3o2V6kavYkWQlLj1efOGAIdrA1lVxoC5vgQAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjw88HWBhA3EiwAo2Zd6EfRqVAwVKGTjXpwKwCi9B8HD3o2V6kavYkWQlLj1efOGAIdrA1lVxoC5vgQAvD_BwE&wbraid=Cj8KCQjw0LzWBhCwARIuAJkypPQIFpJwg1aeGKo75Pvo82mKgioLELJXjzoyBWQaN-N77na_jhfLZ_YUyRoCW-A&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_I3Q_p1yPD94ljoHBMP1ogTd&adtype=pla&loc_physical_ms=1008529&loc_interest_ms=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24323471418

I find the warnings annoying. I've trained my regular passengers to know that the speed warning chimes are just the car 'being stupid again' rather than me exceeding the speed limit. And I strongly agree with @randomcastle that the autonomous speed control - when the car tries to follow those incorrect limits - is potentially dangerous. It's a neat trick when it works, but I stopped using it on the second day that I had the car. However, the settings on my car do allow this to be turned off as a permanent preference; I don't need to turn it off every time I start the car. I cannot recall where I made the change, but the online manual seems to show that the 'speed limit response' setting can be changed in the infotainment system... You might also want to turn off the 'road layout response' while you are there, although this is more of a personal preference. I find that it starts slowing much, much earlier than it needs to. In flowing traffic, the car in front will usually slow you down sufficiently via the ACC anyway. If there is no car in front, then I prefer to be in control and use the big pedal to reduce the speed to match the road conditions.

Tesla Superchargers not on here yet beside Turnberry and a Pumpkin festival on and busy. But some **** with an EV just uses the bay at the one DC charger. I needed a charge since I tried at Stirling park and ride and 3 out of 4 50 kW chargers were broken.

There is a moral to this story too. Few years back four new tyres fitted on the Monday - Tuesday morning start the car to go to work, low tyre pressure warning. Ignored as I “knew” better four new tyres all at correct pressure when I reversed into the garage the previous night. 200 yds down the road steering’s very heavy, stopped got out OSF nearly flat. Faulty valve. I no longer ignore warnings!

Speed limit warnings are 1 of several "driver assistance" features I have to turn off every time before I drive. I live in a pretty rural location and my 2026 L&K superb seems to make speed limits up. Even where an unrestricted sign is clearly visible it will say 20 is the limit. It's more than annoying, it's dangerous, causing the car to slow suddenly or accelerate to 60 when it thinks it's out of a ghost 20 zone if you are using ACC. I feel the tech has got a bit out of control. It wouldn't be so bad if the changes "stuck", but no, every time you start up you have to change a heap of settings. Is it the same in other cars like Merc or BMW?

I believe that the pad/bung should be removed and replaced with Audi-type lift pads.

Google has got me to here and it mentioned pab567 as the person to talk to about downloading the software fix for mine. Unfortunately I haven't made the '20 posts' limit to send a private message. Is pab567 still on the site?

Yes I can buy just the bushes and its an easy bolt-on job - according to AI

Don't forget, new parts can be faulty too.

Hi, can I buy just the bushes for the rear of the suspension arms and are they easy to fit please? Or is it better to fit complete arms at 85,000mls?

Stretching the thread a little here, but my worst bong was a week after taking delivery of a Polo. This was accompanied by the message "S6 Battery Critically Low". Pulled over & trawled the manual & internet for what S6 meant, without success. Car started OK so I decided to push on with the 75 mile journey home, fretting that the car would die at any moment, but it didn't. Next day the warning had gone. Then the penny finally dropped, it was warning about the battery on my Samsung S6 phone...

The worst bong for me is the washer bottle, which must be the loudest of all bongs. it can bong a minute after starting off, and then continue to bong at variably spaced intervals during the journey. Totally unnecessary. Surely the car's electronics must be able to sense that the car is moving after sounding the first bong, so why not just display the warning light.

I have a strange problem with my Skoda Karoq, when I drive alone, the steering wheel is on the left side, near the front right wheel, or the mudguard or the floor, I hear a knocking sound on the holes and speed bumps as if something is loose, as if the suspension is faulty, but the shock absorbers, mounts, bearings and support rods were recently replaced, the brakes are new and everything has passed the MOT, but it is still audible. What is even more incredible is that NOTHING is heard when someone else is sitting in the passenger seat. I checked the seat, everything is fixed, nothing is moving anywhere, and the sound is coming from outside. Does anyone have an idea how to fix it?

This figure seems to agree - this is from a different bit of the manual and looks like the lift is in from the sill seam. So I read that as meaning the sill weld is for short term jacking, eg for a tyre change, while the adjacent part of the subframe behind that is suitable for lifting during maintenance. I will use a bit of carcassing timber between the axle stand and the car to spread the pressure. I don't really understand what the plastic cover and the rubber bungs are about but they seem to be located just where the lift would go in this diagram. Seems an odd thing to do because the plastic cover would get mashed if it's not removed.

You get VAG jack pads, but they do sometimes require modification. If the slit is too narrow, it will peel away the undersea (if this hasn't already been done). If it's too wide, it won't support the pinch weld adequately. Common lift points are the front subframe (it's beefy) and the rear suspension points or beam. Again, make sure you have an adequate jack pad.