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If you have a 280bhp you have 340mm vented front discs, 310mm rear vented discs. Every other model, be it petrol, diesel, FWD or AWD will have 312mm vented front discs, 300m sold rear discs. Most motor factors are hit and miss despite claiming to confirm the make/model/trim you have; so make sure you check the size is correct. BTW, if you're just going to for plain discs, I highly recommend the ATE Ceramic pads as they are very low dust. I've read they leave a film on the disc and the pad then grips that rather than friction on the surface of the disc. No idea if that's true but the results spoke for themselves with me.

A 2014 will have MIB1 systems, so: if you have Canton you'll need a new Canton amp if you want to use CarPlay or Android Auto you'll need a new USB In any case it won't be plug and play, coding will be required to match the new MIB2.5 to the car configuration.

Yes its that but I think there's a spot weld in the mix too. It may well be in response to the ARB bushes originally being a classic source of creaking in the pre-FL versions. I wonder if putting it all together stops any chance of moving causing noise. H&R just haven't caught up with the design change. I did note that some places like Hardrace or Whiteline include new clamps so I'll mull over the idea of buying replacement clamps and fitting it on an Alu subframe next year some time when finances have recovered a little...

Is this an extension cable you are using? If so, what gauge (mm2) are the cores?

Briskoda DQ 200 servicing. Or Briskoda DQ 200 oil changes. In any search engine. Ignore Fabia MK2 threads as obviously pre 2015 issues. Service campaigns.

VW have different advice on oil changes for lower annual mileage, short trip vehicles, differing useages even though Long Life oil.

I don't like leaving oil in cars longer than a year regardless of mileage. But VW Group say it's OK for up to 2yrs/30K miles and they should know. If the car senses the oil needs changing earlier, due to lots of cold starts, short journeys etc, then it'll ask for it. I guess the crucial thing is, how long will you keep the car? If you'll change it in a few years time then you're over-servicing is benefiting the next owner, not you.

Thanks for your thoughts, @Arianne I ran Goodyear All-Season Vectors all year round on my Mk3 Superb. They were ok and coped adequately with most conditions, albeit with a much lower powered car than I now have. However, two of the set developed a nasty habit of losing pressure and needed frequent top-ups. By the time I got rid of them, it was at least weekly. My garage checked them but could not find any damage or mis-fitting to explain the problem. So I've got a (probably irrational) bias against Goodyears. At the moment, all the UK dealers seem to be out-of-stock of all brands of winter tyres except Continental. Presumably, they will bring new stock in this month as drivers decide it's time to switch over. Like many, I use the summer time clock changes as my cue to swap tyres and consequently late October/early November is when dealers typically aim to have their new stock in. That gives me another few weeks to make my mind up. I don't need snow chains, so I will be on 18" winter rims to give a little bit more width in contact with the road. I saw that a few online dealers do have a good range of tyres available now. Digging further, quite a few seem to be trading names for Delticom, so I appreciate your observations on their service. I'll keep that in my back pocket if nothing turns up here in the meantime. I assume they take care of all the import and tax issues from the EU source, so there are no additional costs or hassle beyond the purchase price.

@BKRacing Just out of interest, did the seller declare to you that it was a Cat N or S insurance write-off?

This has taken a LONG time to get out, the top of the strut being nicely rusted. but another round of heat, penetrant, and violence got the nut suddenly moving. That gets us this rotten old bouncy thingy out As soon as I get some more money I'm going to get new ones that aren't so rusty. I THINK I'm going gas, not oil as this isn't primarily going to be a load carrying vehicle. The important question is: What's that rubber stuff up at the top called because although I can get shocks from loads of places I'm struggling to locate the top hat bush thingy and that should be refreshed too I feel. Actually bad form but probably this?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404677052614 Of course I can't get the other side out, but if time got this one moving I expect the same magic can happen on the other side.

Die to distance from my home charger my regular cable is 12.5 metres long. Occasionally it will charge 5% and stop. Unplug, replug and get another 5%. With my regular yellow cable never any problem. Has anyone else had problems using other than the supplied Skoda cable. 2024 Superb PHEV.

Ok, you dont find it too stiff going over speedbumps etc? The handling and body roll is for sure much improved. How much was the car lowered from the original setup? Did you have to get shorter bumpstops for the new shorter b8 shocks or did they come with them?

Hi, thanks again for your reply. I am planning on having a two year service when I hit 15k km's, I suspect around April next year which I hope will put me firmly back on track. Looking at the 2 year service they replace the pollen filter. In the past I pretty much always serviced my cars myself but with this one being newer and therefore more expensive I am going to use the main dealer for most works / servicing.

Thx, problem I have when searching the forum (not only this one ) is that information is very fractured which means reading hundreds of posts and then trying to piece together something useful. The search function is weird, tried several keywords but search return list is not great and will often show results that are not even about the search subject matter.

Made simple wooden ramps to raise car about 100mm plenty of room to remove undertrays and fit running boards.

...but it does look as if the shells are clamped-together with some type of rivet nut.

You should be able to find engine starts in the ecu. A lot of other factors of ah draw. Car sitting in trafffic when engine is off. Locking and opening of the car. Brake regeneration cycling the battery etc

I assume price reduction of AGM batteries is due to economy of scale rule. Prices of them a few years back was disproportionately high, I thought.

Nipped up all the lines, lobbed some fluid in the top and gave it a squeeze. Pedal feels ****ty so more is needed, but if you press the pedal you can't move the drums and if you let off the pedal you can so that's SOME kind of win.

GPS is good, everything is working mate

Unless a fault is actually still present. Is GPS working correctly?

Can You please post more photos?

@Coral-C We live in the Scottish Borders but we take our Superb to the Austrian Tyrol for skiing each year - two good reasons for the winter tyre swap out. I researched the most appropriate tyre for our use, which included choosing a tyre which wasn't truly performance biased because we prefer a comfortable ride and only do the 'pedal to the metal' thing for a short overtaking burst or when we are rarely late for something while travelling along the twisty Scottish country roads. ChatGPT recommended the Goodyear Ultragrip 3 and, as you can see, this is what we have bought. I always research any AI recommendations independently myself when it concerns anything of significance or importance - my own research confirmed that these are award-winning tyres and come highly recommended. However, they will not be mounted until late-November which means I cannot give you feedback yet. Nonetheless, tyres are tyres and if they are this highly reviewed by ADAS etc. then my experience over the years is that they will be good on the white stuff. I was tempted by the Michelin tyre (I cannot remember the name) because they claim to have developed a tread block which reveals fresh sipes as the tyre wears down. You will know that winter tyres are hopeless once the tread depth falls below 4mm - both straight line grip / braking and lateral cornering. Michelin is my usual 'go-to' brand and has served me well. But these tyres haven't been around long enough for this long-term claim to have been independently tested and, in Austria at least, the legal requirement for winter tyres is that they must have more than 4mm tread depth anyway. So I went with the Goodyear Ultragrip 3 in the end. I sourced them from MyTyres, the trading name of Delticom, a huge German tyre supplier that ships across the EU and UK. They were offering the best price, delivery was at no extra cost and they arrived within the week via Andy, our DPD delivery guy. DPD are the best in our area. I haven't checked the dot code for year of manufacture but will do so later today when I pop into our garage where they are currently stored. Our Superb is the 265PS TSI 4x4, like yours. However, we have the 17" rims for the winter tyres so that we can mount snow chains if needed. The 18" and 19" rims, with their wider tyres, have insufficient clearance to accept the chain links without fouling some of the running gear. Hope this helps. I prefer running dedicated winter tyres in colder weather because the standard UK tyre, effectively a summer tyre as the Northern Europeans would classify it, stiffens up and is less effective at braking below 7deg. Most winters one could get away with it here in the Borders but, when it does snow, there is no comparison between the winter and summer rubber. 4x4 is hopeless without the right tyres and keeps us mobile and safe when others are completely stuck and have abandoned their vehicles. Best wishes