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I've been back to Caffyns and had a long chat with their warranty manager. He agrees what has happened and that it's rust from the inside and that it is covered by the warranty and has shown me Skoda's internal repair schedule for claims such as this which even stipulates wheel arch liners have to be retro fitted. However, he has also shown my the reply to the warranty claim which shows it was Skoda that rejected the claim and they gave zero reason so that's Skoda lying to me saying the dealership made the decision. He is now contacting them again. What an absolute shambles.

I'd also be interested in this. I'll keep an eye out for your ebay link. I've had the volume bar unplugged all summer which of course stopped the problem. I plugged it back in today to take it to the Skoda garage, and they of course have to do a software update (for £200) before even considering any other repairs/replacements. No doubt as soon as the hot weather starts up again the problem will come back, and then I'll have a go at replacing the touch panel. Meanwhile Skoda are up £200...

My troubleshooting has identified rubbing in the exact same area. I’m going to see if the seals can be replaced.

Hi ya all.. I have a Skoda Superb 2023 3V539Z and it is an Ambition, witch has a softer suspention than Style. I want to make it more sutable for heavier loading, used as a taxi (best car for that use) and being able to withhold pushup traler to be attachet to the towbar without beeing at safety point in maximising the travel of suspention. What can I do to make it more sutable for that kind of abusement?

Thought I'd update this thread with some new, but unfortunately, disappointing information. I've just taken delivery of a Bluetooth v4.1 MP3 player with high hopes this would solve my dilemma. Head unit picks the device up, device picks the head unit up. But they fail to pair (either way), with the error message "Incorrect PIN or Passkey" A Google search reveals this appears to be a relatively common connectivity issue and provided several device resets and hacks which should resolve the fault. Unfortunately none of them did. Looks like I'll have to suffer in silence.

New chargers going in @ Dowhill Farm & Country Fayre between Turnberry and Girvan. KA26 9LP. there is already a DC and 2 AC chargers there which are 55 pence a kWh at present.

Hi everyone, I was tagged into this thread, so I’d like to share an update regarding some issues with my car. First of all, in my case, there were two different types of rattling sounds coming from the front left door. The first one, as I mentioned in my previous post, was fixed by adjusting the door striker slightly outward (which made the door fit a bit looser against the car body). Unfortunately, after a few days, a second type of strange noise appeared and started to drive me crazy. It’s a completely different sound. Interestingly, when I cleaned the door recess, the noise temporarily disappeared. The same thing happened after a car wash – as long as the flocked seals were wet, it was quiet. Once they dried, the sound came back. I tried applying a silicone-based lubricant, but only to the rubber seals, as silicone shouldn't be used on flocked ones – which, obviously, didn't solve the problem either. After days of troubleshooting, I finally found the root cause. Please take a look at the attached photos. I placed a strip of stretch film inside the driver's door recess, and the noise completely stopped. I’ve been driving like this for three weeks now, and it’s been perfectly quiet. My theory is that the flocked seal rubs against the car body when the chassis flexes, creating that annoying sound. In my opinion, the first fix actually caused this second problem. Because the door is no longer pressed tightly against the recess, the flocked seals have room to move. When the chassis flexes, they rub against the car body and produce that sound. If they were compressed tighter, they wouldn't shift and make noise. I’m dropping my Kodiaq off at the dealership on Monday for a few days. I’ve already spoken with the mechanic, and they are going to try adjusting the door striker further inward to see if that solves the issue without bringing back the original noise. They also mentioned that they could replace the seals if necessary, so we’ll see. One final note: I did some research and found a water-based lubricant from BMW (see attached photo) that should be safe for flocked seals. However, that’s my plan B. I want the service team to try adjusting the striker or finding a permanent mechanical solution first.

New chargers going in. Between Turnberry and Girvan @ Dowhill Farm and Country Fayre. KA26 9JP. Already there is a DC charger and 2 AC, and it has been cheap at 55 pence a kWh, maybe not for much longer.

Afternoon and hope all well , looking to treat ourselves to new vrs octavia, looking at the spec on new skodas available some have 2026my and sone 2027my ... any one know if there is much difference, thanks

Could still be a wheel bearing on its way out. Sons was grumbling away but no play in bearing at all. When I compared the old to new the old one it was a bit tighter to turn. Does it change when turning left to right etc. Alasdair

OTA does not work in my country, it is not supported. So, i have to do update manually. I do not have online package. There is no base on my car. I cannot connect to internet.

Hi I have just got a Skoda Yeti for the Mrs. First impression's are good expect plenty of questions from me over the coming months

When the disc is hot does the wheel turn freely. If its stiff or binding try crack open bleed nipple and retighten. If it spins freely afterwards it may be trapped hydraulic pressure so there may be a problem between caliper and ABS unit or ABS itself thats acting like a non return valve. Alasdair

Yes sounds about right 👍🏻

It is a Tiptronic then. I assume a 1.6 petrol.

Um... It's a 6 speed. No flappy paddles but can use the gearstick as a sequential shifter. So I guess so. Never had the box serviced whilst we've had it. I have wondered about the box myself but the noise doesn't change if I shift to Neutral whilst rolling, so I thought maybe not? 🤔

SKODA Superb 3 L&K 2022 Car Factory 5F Unit: 3V0035816G When you Patch with USB CP Off & Fec's aktiv., IT Only works Maximum with Firmware 0332. You also lose all online things of the Unit

I thought I had H but in an 03/2021-registered car. From Gemini: In the Volkswagen Auto Group (VAG) part numbering ecosystem, the single- or double-letter suffixes at the end of a part number indicate hardware revisions, production year updates, or software advancements. [1] For the 3V0035816 MIB3 navigation head unit, the most common suffix variations found across Skoda models include: Common Suffix Variations No Suffix (3V0035816): The base or initial release variant of the MIB3 High/Columbus system, typically found on early facelift models around late 2019 to mid-2020. [1, 2] Suffix A & B (3V0035816A / 3V0035816B): Early revision updates introduced during the 2020–2021 production cycle. [1, 2] Suffix D (3V0035816D): A highly common revision introduced around late 2021. It is frequently seen as a factory standard in the 2021–2022 Skoda Kodiaq and Superb. [1, 2] Suffix E & H (3V0035816E / 3V0035816H): Mid-generation hardware updates that include factory fixes for early MIB3 software stability issues. [1] Suffix K (3V0035816K): A later generation variant (often 2022–2023+ models) heavily used across the compact line, including the Skoda Kamiq, Scala, and Octavia IV. [1] Suffix N (3V0035816N): A later revision version variant, sometimes associated with specific component manufacturers (like Joynext instead of Preh/Harman). [1] What do these differences mean for you? Component Protection: No matter which suffix variation you find, VAG units feature Component Protection. If you swap one into your car, it will remain locked (no sound or disabled menus) until it is programmed and unlocked via official Skoda ODIS software linked to the factory server. [1] Backward Compatibility: Generally, a unit with a newer suffix (e.g., changing from a base unit to a D or K variant) can replace an older unit, provided it is coded properly to match your vehicle's specific layout (such as screen size or sound amplifier type). [1, 2] Hope that helps. Cairus knows what he's talking about though!

I did! Turns out it was a rubbish charger! And/or my car was already quite low on charge!

Pg 8 of my how-to-guide says to make sure the car is connected to a battery charger prior to commencing with the firmware install!! Anyways, all the best with the final few steps and that it successfully completes.

I've never had a good result from them, either waiting ages for them to despatch something that's "in stock", or where I've paid for a brand name part and they've still sent me the random chinese brand.

On my track record, that's good to know!

No mate it didn’t.

Piston not retracting correctly

Does OTA not work because there is no mobile data option in your location? Do you have a current Infotainment online package? If there is no mobile data option locally - Can you tether the car wifi to your phone (or home wifi is you park close to home)?