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look for the F&R sway bar links, but mainly look for all the rear subframe bushing, I suspect for some multilink arm

A Sprint, just around the corner from my house: (Unable to upload photo's - can't even upload a screenshot of the 'Upload Failed' - MacBook Pro; Safari Tahoe 25.6.2) Uploaded from iPhone: Gaz

A question that I can't answer I'm afraid. She has had it serviced regularly by the Skoda dealer she bought it from, so who knows? My experience of main dealers of several ilks is not good..... Charging for parts and not actually fitting them. I've looked up BOSCH dealers in her neck of the woods and come up with Deepcut Garage - anyone had any experience with them?

Sounds a ridiculous price for Coil & Leads. Have we to assume the 4 spark plugs are good and have been inspected and not needing replaced?

^^^ VW are the masters of screwing down the cost to them, and never knowingly 'over spec' consumables.

TPI Summary 2063309_8.pdf

Get an MOT test done, problem should be obvious to the tester.

First post in this forum, I usually hover over the Octavia Mk 111 one as I own a 2016 diesel vRS. My sister has a 2015 1.2TSi manual Yeti which went into limp mode just before she went into hospital for a hip replacement - yes, we are of that generation! Her main dealer that supplied the car and have serviced it since she acquired it say it needs a new coil pack and ignition lead and want £800 to change it and a split track rod end rubber boot. 6 - 8 week delay before they can do the work because of parts availability. Questions are: 1, Is she being stitched up - YES. 2, Can anyone recommend a good Indie VAG workshop in the Camberley area? i know very little about modern (after 1980s) petrol engines and when I looked on a couple of parts web sites, they were showing glow plugs in the ignition section; in a petrol engine? Loads of different coil packs that fit onto the spark plug like my BMW 740 Sport and a coil that looks a bit like a square distributor cap with four connectors sticking out, I imagine for the plug leads. Any advice will be welcome.

Stats suggest the most stolen car in England at the moment is a Fiesta, and in fact the luxury brand cars you expect to get stolen count for much smaller number of thefts. Suggested reading (although article is from February this year) https://www.whatcar.com/news/the-most-stolen-cars-in-the-uk/n21162

Thank you all. I had been looking at the wrong screen and forgetting the steering wheel buttons. All is now good.

@captseahawk Write to me, I can send you the software and advise you.

Just a comment from personal experience:- I contacted my local Fuchs oil sales rep as I had considered buying a "suitable/correct" oil for my cars, but from a aftermarket brand that were known to use Fuchs as their source, the question I (naively) asked was "is ***'s product ABC the as your Fuchs XYZ ?" and the answer that I got was that the additive package that they use in customer's oils is closely matched to the area of the market that they are selling into - ie price dependant. So I think that that answered my question/suspicions concerning aftermarket brands when comparing them to main stream oil brands.

Thanks for the suggestion Travs. The reason that I've posted on Briskoda with a hiatus over the colder time is to do with my health. It has been playing up irrespective of hot or cold weather. Regards R

It's in the configureator as well it seems....

I do have another angle that I'd like to give on this (and it comes from personal experience). If a car thief is determined enough to want your car, then the best way to secure your car is to secure your house. Put all the kill switches, immobilser devices, faraday boxes/pouches you like, if they are determined enough to want the car they'll try and get in for the key, and beat any immobilser code out of you. Before the vRS I had a Cupra Atec VZ1. After about a month with it two masked guys tried to break into the house for the keys. We have anti-snap locks fitted to our house and they gave up as soon as they realised they couldn't snap the cylinders off. About 20 minutes later a Golf R Estate was stolen from only a few hundred metres away from a house without anti-snap locks. They were in and out within seconds. If you have a vehicle with KESSY like we do, the best security for your car is security for your house.

Cheers for the reply, Kenny. I did some digging and looked at the owners manual and I think I found the answer since posting.... This is from the 2026/3 manual - it's also in the 2026/8 manual. I'm guessing the 'Tilt adjustment' option adjusts the seat base angle?

In Romania, for the Superb Sedan\Liftback, you can choose the rear wiper for an extra cost, so it's not included by default.

Don’t think I’ve ever seen electric seat option on the Kamiq.

I bought the additive https://www.mannol.de/products/additives/ester-additives/mannol-benzin-ester-additive and I add it as it says 0.1% to 95 gasoline, it's a very weak mixture, I wonder if it has any effect in such a small percentage. I was thinking of increasing it to at least 0.2%, shouldn't it be a problem?

Many thanks for your reply. I have ordered a pair of the compatible Bosch ones from Amazon. I’ll keep them in reserve and see how the OEM ones perform to start with. I don’t think my new model actually has a rear wiper at all, from what I can see of the spec, which is a shame, as it helps visibility in very wet motorway driving. On the plus side, it does tend to give the dog a bit of a jump scare if travelling in the boot on the old one, as it makes a racket when it first wipes the rear screen🫣.

What's your oil temperature getting to at say 220-230km/h after 3-5 minutes of driving now that the shutters are removed? My numbers (Mk3 Octavia CUNA TDI 184bhp) are about 107degC - 109degC at 200km/h, about 115degC - 117degC at 215km/h in ca 20degC environment, and I got to 125deg C on one occasion driving at 230km/h before I started watching oil temperature... I try not to exceed 115degC, even though the engine can take more, the oil pump is belt driven ( and the belt is in the hot oil).

Well that was quick and painless, thankfully! 👍 It turned out that, when the Turbo Actuator arm was replaced a couple of years ago (before I got the car) the housing hadn't been put back quite right, so it was rubbing on the arm and it had caused enough friction to register as a fault. A couple of minutes with a screwdriver and pliers and it was moving freely again Whilst having my own OBD reader might have told me the problem, I wouldn't have known where to look, so that's £60 well spent.

I've used a Carista reader for years, its been pretty good and definitely saved a few £££. I pay for the subscription version and would say I get good value out of it each year and will continue with it.

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Hello I have a Fabia 4 with MIB 3, OE 3V0.035.816.L, but with the old SW 0306. Carplay, or rather the phone, is often disconnected. A known thing on old SW. I would like to put the latest possible SW there. I would probably flash it via ODIS rather than via USB. Has anyone encountered a situation where the flash did not go through and the unit was gone? Is there then any possibility of restoring the unit, for example on the table? It's my car and the system is not exactly cheap. Thanks!