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Ended up removing hub bolt etc. Theres not enough space to get strut out on offside as it doesnt drop far enough. Job wasn't too bad. Just hate doing springs especially front. Alasdair

Used them for years. Some parts are exellent and others not so good but handy to have. Lucky my sons fabia mk1 and my old mk2 were covered. My mk2 fl 1.6tdi engine for some reason isnt although think its covered in an other. I dont like online ones. I prefer to be able to take the book to the car. Alasdair

Hi guys Sorry for a late message. BUT im ****ed off with my MIB2 and i want to upgrade it to MIB2.5 . What should i know about it, about coding and stuff. I already have these brains in glovebox, but is it just plug and play? Oh yes i have Superb Estate 2015 (please don't judge) 1.6 TDI diesel

Interesting. I’ve been using a Haynes manual for a Golf Mk7 for some things, although not everything is the same as an Octavia. When trying to sort out a problem with the electric windows on my sister’s Renault Captur, I also found that Haynes didn’t do a printed manual for that, either. However, they did do one for the Clio, which uses the same switches, motors, etc. The only problem was, all the wiring colours were different! It still helped, though 😀

Is this the update file: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T? If it is, could you please provide me with the link?

_SK_ZR_P0241T https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T The link is not active. I am looking for a link for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0480T

Hi everyone, Has anyone fitted a DTTA 110 kW long block in place of a DSUD 85 kW in an Octavia Mk4? My car is a 2021 Octavia Mk4 2.0 TDI DSUD with the UEV six-speed manual gearbox. The donor is a 2023 Octavia Mk4 2.0 TDI DTTA with a VCJ six-speed manual gearbox, built in November 2022. I’d keep the DTTA long block complete, including its internals, sump and timing setup. I’d transfer the DSUD external parts, including the turbo, fuel system, intake, EGR, sensors and wiring loom. I’d also keep my original DSUD ECU and software, flywheel, clutch and UEV gearbox. The aim is to keep the car running as an 85 kW DSUD. I compared both VINs in Partslink24. The block (05L 103 011 L), camshaft module (05L 103 044 AH) and dual-mass flywheel (05L 105 266 F) match. The catalogue also lists the same crankshaft and oil pump for both engine codes. The upper sump and timing belt have different part numbers, and I plan to leave both as fitted to the DTTA. Has anyone done this swap or worked on both engines? I’d especially like to know whether the DSUD external parts bolt straight on and whether the original DSUD ECU runs the DTTA long block on the stock map. If you ran into any differences with the crank or cam trigger signals, engine mounts, or turbo and EGR connections, I’d appreciate the details. Thanks!

I always take a trial-and-error approach 😅

Yeah my guess was the same. Saw eu and china had diffrent hardwer versions. From my understanding atleast the indexes after the serial numbers where later "revisions". Yes i have the most cable and i have my nav maps showing in the cluster. How risky is the update to the newer softwere and where can i find a link for it. Thanks!

Mine does the 12v protection from time to time. I have a ctek charger, a CS Free, and in winter, chuck it on the battery about once a week. As the ctek has its own battery built in and will bring the 12v up enough to allow the car to start in a few moments, I carry it in the car just in case at all times. However, I think that warning also comes up if you access the car remotely too often in a given period. Like about 6 times in 12 hours or something.Because I use Octopus to schedule, I sometimes get a schedule with an hour here, a gap, half an hour, a gap, another hour... Those kind of non-contiguous schedules sometimes seem to kick in the warning and then charging stops or fails. But you just get in, move the car an inch, get out, it resets the warning and Octopus will charge it again. Not much good at 3am but still. Every time I used the ctek the 12v is either fine or within an hour or so of being fine. Car is also a coupe, 25 months old. I don't think Skoda offer the Optimised Battery Use setting in the app, that's a VW thing I think. I think the Enyaq charges the 12v when driving ok, but I can't find a definitive thing saying it will charge the 12v when you plug the car in and just recharging. I can find things like "it's supposed to" or "probably in some circumstances" but not an official yes that's how it works. Maybe someone else has definite info on that. I just assume mine doesn't, hence using the ctek just in case

First Screen With positiv pwm = Seat 2nd Screen with negativ pwm = SKODA

The difference is that with DCC, the sensors are processed by the DCC control unit, whereas otherwise, they are handled by the BCM (Body Control Module). The system stores information regarding which axle is installed and the number of sensors—specifically two in the case of all-wheel-drive vehicles. The regulation mechanism functions on the same principle, regardless of whether DCC is present or not. The basic setting (calibration) for DCC is distinct from that of the headlights. The vehicle should be positioned normally on a level surface and left unloaded before performing the basic setting.

A thought though. I wonder if it might be irrelevant anyway. May give you some info of relevant position but with regards to the precise number, @JR RS has me thinking. does the adaptation without dcc have to be done in the same way. E.g jacked up with wheels hanging at full extent to find a max extension and then all compression of suspension is relative to that figure. Edit: just had a look at the manual and it only mentions basic settings for dcc. Will let you know what my numbers are when I get a chance to look.

Guys, thanks for the reponse. Binx1310, awaiting your data!

Also do you have G13 coolant and does it read in your expansion bottle "Mit silikat"?

Hi. Are you sure the cause is the heater matrix and not the climatronics passenger side flapmotor that controls the hot and cold airflow. In LHD vehicles its V159 i think. These flapmotors are known to fail when they age, the potentiometer inside fails or the plastic stop breaks so that the motor loses its position signal. Have you read DTCs?

From China, the VC 😉... unfortunately, you bought an older software version; the Sportline visuals, etc., only arrived with "Index A" what i know... It is possible to perform an update via an SD card through the MIB2 unit—provided you have retrofitted the MOST connection—but I cannot offer any guarantees regarding this.

I definitely did not intend to offend anyone. If my words came across the wrong way—which can certainly happen, given that English is not my native language—I apologize. My only point was that the discussion should remain focused on the Superb; if someone were to read this thread days, weeks, or years later and encounter talk about a VW T6.1—or any other vehicle with a completely different system architecture—it would simply be confusing. I am certainly not questioning anyone’s competence; everyone—absolutely everyone—in this forum contributes something of value. I simply felt a personal need to clarify this, and as far as I am concerned, this matter is now settled.

No, the dataset is essentially an extension of the firmware. It is loaded onto a control unit and—to put it simply—contains vehicle-specific data and the functions that the control unit is supposed to execute. Tools like ODIS-E or VCP can be used to flash these datasets. There are also some handy tools that allow you to load the OEM dataset, which then provides you with a user-friendly interface for making adjustments; you can then save your configuration and flash it onto the unit.

A diesel vehicles fan can continue to run if the vehicle was mid-regen when stopped

I’m sure everyone can take a mo to calm down. It’s easy to read things in the wrong tone. Plenty of knowledge to be shared which makes the forum greater. Cairus has a wealth of knowledge particular to these models. You clearly have lots of knowledge too but seems more general. Both have their place but I’m sure nothing was intended to be a p***ing contest 👍🏼

Thank You for the reply and the link, and Your original post, very helpful! The mirror in the link is the same mirror I have sourced, I was left with the ceramic circle after removing the factory mirror so I have mounted just below as I managed to get a working sensor to mount in the middle of the retaining bracket. All working fine, Thanks again

I changed my NS front spring today and yes the 21 yo top mount was goosed , good job I bought one then I had a few issues getting the shock off but a lot more hassle trying to fit it back in the hub. I dont suppose if anyone knows if the tab that slots into the hub that the pinch bolt goes through is supposed to be elongated and have a 90 deg hook on the bottom? I noticed this as i was changing the spring and tried to bend it backin line with the tab but it seemed pre-formed so I ended up leaving it. I,m not sure if the shock is sitting slightly higher in the hub then it should and its got me paranoid now after finishing the job in the dark tonight 🅰️ I'll compare it with the other side in the morning if it aint pishing it down then back to the MOT station on Monday ,good article this one thanks guys !

Id be more inclined to go on mileage, and if its one you want to keep for a while, do more often than 15000. I do the oil in mine every 7,500 because oil is actually pretty cheap. 1.4 TSI engine I get whatever VW502 is on special and change it more often. If the 504 is on special I get that but my understanding is the 504 only gives extended service intervals so not worth it in my case

Yeah, I think the main work is the refill procedure and pipe connections. I think the actual matrix is fairly easy to access