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Just over two years on mine! Car new in Oct 24 and just started getting the 'Replace key battery warning' . Car not used frequently (I'm retired) , just two to three times a week. Already had Panasonic CR2032 spare batteries, replaced the one in my key , I guess the other key (which hardly gets used) will need replacing soon. Tried using the key blade to open the key as described in the manual but couldn't get it to work. Found post on here showing exactly how to use small flat bladed screwdriver to release cover easily!

I think it was optional. I’ve only seen it listed on adverts for l&k models.

Ahh maybe they don't ship it in UK? I'm not talking about the Webasto or Eberspacher ones, but about the electric heater of the small coolant radiator above the pedals. I think it's also called PTC or auxiliary air heater.

I don’t think I have it 😔

I can't comment on the DMF as my DXRB DSG is only about a year old but there were times when it used to sound like a transit on the same road and under the same engine load and I figured out it was due to the phase of DFP re-generation that was going on. In my case, that is the clack, and the aux belts are the chirp

@Cqrmine if you read the handbook most of your queries are explained there. Page 23.

@Binx1310 With the new battery, you can now use the electric auxiliary air heater if it gets below 5 C in your area. I think it kicks in if it's below 5 C, your battery has more than 11V and HVAC is on Auto. It's a nice feature when it's cold outside

Yes, you will need to delete all the data. It's a good idea to back up the files first if anything goes wrong, then you can just copy them back

Firmware has nothing to do with the navigation system's map data.

Thanks fella, didn't realise the Nav button differentiates it as an Amundsen. Didn't know the MIB1 map updates had stopped either, that would explain why I couldn't see updates. every day's a school day. I'm considering my options regarding an upgrade of the Infotainment system/ head unit/MIB2/MIB2.5 etc. So I've been reading related posts, but will likely do a separate post to hopefully get confirmation of what will work, and what is involved. In the meantime, I may well attempt the ECE 2020/2021 map update. Will I need to 'Delete all data on the (Skoda) SD card’ as per the portal instructions? Thanks again for your reply. Much appreciated.

Yes, but the cheap Bevinsee product https://ebay.io/m/aOKyXi

Is it this sort of thing? Mygolfmk7

@Coral-C : So, we have just completed the 360 mile trip to Windsor from Scotland. M6 / M40. Not the best journey due to a combination of heavy rain, English half-term school holidays and the usual weekday traffic - plenty of accidents and delays. Get a grip people! Speaking of grip, I focused on the issue of gripping the steering wheel while using the semi-autonomous driving technology. It's a bit weird. Initially, travelling south from Carlisle to the Tebay Services in the Lakes, I had very few alerts such that I was already formulating my response to you that things were fine in our Superb. The second stint to the M6 toll services was not so good though. Plenty of alerts such that it spoilt the experience of the technology. I found myself bemoaning it to the ever-patient Mrs A over an overpriced cuppa, on the overpriced Midland Expressway toll road (I shall never complain about French or Italian tolls again, even if the Italian motorway infrastructure has a record of collapsing in and around Genova). But then the final stint down to Windsor was pretty good with only one alerts. My tentative conclusion? I need to test it again when we head north! I wonder if using the heated steering wheel might affect it. I know that a slight wriggle of the steering wheel clears the warning but so does simply tightening my grip of the wheel, in any position - debunking the theory about specifically positioned contact sensors. On that final stint I was very conscious of my hand placement and grip, somewhat defeating the purpose of the technology which is meant to lighten the mental load. I only had one warning about not paying attention which was justified as I was preoccupied with the touchscreen at the time. I hate using the screen to access settings while driving and ask Mrs A to watch the road while I am briefly fiddling. I did get warnings about taking a break after as little as 70mins which tells me that the car doesn't rate my normal driving style then 😅. More generally, I found the technology very useful in traffic jams or convoys. But my brain is still far better at reading the road ahead, second guessing the behaviour of other road users and maintaining flow & momentum. But the technology lulls me into laziness, even if the overall drive is not so enjoyable. And I enjoy driving. So the technology is good, very good but not perfect. I am glad we have it though and with time I will become more adept at using it seamlessly. I will test this again on our way back to Scotland later in the week and post again on this thread. Best wishes.

If the little red light on the fob doesn't flash then reach for the 2032's before it lets you down - I test for the flashing light before each service inasmuch as the dealer picks up on it and offers to do the change for a kings ransom.........

Hello everyone, I’m new to the forum. I’m looking for the safest way to upgrade my current infotainment version (1810) to a subsequent intermediate version. Based on my research across various forums, it seems that this outdated version often triggers errors—such as issues with the SOS call system or the ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) radar becoming unavailable. I am unable to log in as the primary user or perform any online updates, and the infotainment system is quite slow; for these reasons, I would like to update it. Thanks in advance!

Sent in PM

Link to download MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T sent in PM. You can go directly from 0353 to 0369.

Welcome to Briskoda @Dudelange 👏

Big hello to all the forum members! I’m new here, and I’m the new owner of a Škoda Octavia 2.0 TDI (110 kW) with a DSG transmission and the 'Style' trim level. I have only one photo at the moment, but I’ll make sure to share some soon. I’m from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and I have a general interest in computers and technology. I look forward to a great community experience, exchanging useful advice, and sharing knowledge and experiences!

The language of this forum is English, please post ONLY in English.

Hello I am having problems with my Sat Nav not displaying village names, an issue I have been trying to solve since 2024. It's a very puzzling issue as the same map file loaded on my friend's Golf displays the village names! My Octavia Scout still has what I suspect is the original firmware: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T I don't know if there is some incompatibility between the old firmware and the newer map files (if I install an older version of maps the names are displayed), it might be worth trying an update to: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T I don't need any fancy connectivity upgrades, just trying to fix the maps. I cannot seem to find anywhere to find the file - can anyone help?

I think you meant 6V0093860B rather than 6VA093860B, as there's no such part as 6VA093860B. 6V0093860B is a Fabia MK3 part number not a Fabia MK4 part number, as shown in the link below. Spare wheel kit 6V0693860B (Fabia MK3) https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6v0093860b-spare-wheel-replacement-kit-skoda-25130.html

It depends on your use case everyone is different. You can get low 50s on flat motorway but mid twenties n slow traffic. Overall the engine is pretty economical given the performance available. The car isn’t optimised for economy. For contrast I’ve been driving a new Peugeot 2008 for the last 2 months on holiday and over 9,000km it’s averaged 49mpg. That’s a mix of slow traffic to 130-140km/h from a 1.2l turbo triple mild hybrid. Not bad but I’m looking forward to getting back into the Skoda

I bought a 2020 Octavia with 2.0 TDI ( DSTA / EA288 EVO ) and DSG DQ381. I drove around for couple of weeks and everything was good, engine didn't make weird noises etc. I was actually surprised how smooth mild and quiet engine sounded for a diesel. I then went to Škoda dealer and got the timing belt, water pump replaced as kilometrage was just over 120 000km and 6 years had passed. At first I did not notice anything but slowly I started hearing more and more different noises coming from the engine. I don't know if I was deaf before? Anyway I hear very faint high pitch ticking when I press accelerator and some other weird noises I can't describe. But what bothers me the most is that old Transit van rattle that was not there before. This not only happens when engine is cold but can even happen when engine is fully warmed up after 30 minutes of driving. Other times it's decently quiet and not noticeable at all for some reason? And in some cases this rattle is EXTRA loud. Can happen while accelerating or even driving at steady rpm. Also there is odd clunk that sounds like knock when I am stationary and tap the accelerator quickly. Video below. Possible DMF related? Tell me if I am just crazy and it always was there or whether there is actually something wrong. Anyway couple of videos. Transit van like rattle at mild acceleration. 5-10 minutes after cold start. In some cases sounds 3x as loud. Phones microphone is not very good at picking up the sound. Clunk / knock:

Possible Causes & Diagnostic Steps 1. Bent or Rusted Brake Dust Shield: Why it happens: The metal plate behind the brake disc rusts easily on Felicias. If it is slightly bent or has accumulated rust around its perimeter, it comes into contact with the rotating rotor. When you turn the steering wheel, the microscopic shifting of the wheel causes it to touch or move away. What to do: Jack up the car, remove the wheel, and gently push the shield backward (away from the rotor) using a screwdriver. Clean off any flaking rust that might be rubbing against the disc. 2. CV Joints / Axle: Why it happens: A worn outer CV joint can produce a metallic noise that changes depending on the steering wheel angle. What to do: Inspect the rubber boots for any tears. If the grease has leaked out or water/dirt has gotten inside, the joint dries out and causes friction. 3. Suspension Mounts and Bushings (Control Arm Bushings): Why it happens: If the control arm bushings are worn out ("sagged"), the entire suspension strut shifts under load (e.g., at 60-80 km/h due to aerodynamic pressure and rolling resistance). This alters the alignment of the components, causing friction that disappears as soon as you turn. What to do: Use a pry bar to check for play (looseness) in the control arm bushings and the ball joints. 4. Improperly Seated or Defective New Wheel Bearing: Why it happens: Even though it was replaced, if the bearing was not pressed completely straight (properly seated) into the steering knuckle, the wheel hub may sit at a slight angle. This causes the brake rotor to wobble and rub against the brake pads. This explains why light braking makes the noise disappear.