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I think that generally the consensus is to run with fixed servicing periods, yes you'll probably get more miles/£ by running with flexible - but other wear and tear items might need extra cash in an unpredictable way. Flexible servicing usually only works for new cars that get high usage - then moved on after a couple of years.

Hi guys, I’m after some help & advice. I’m looking at buying a none running 1.9 diesel. The car was previously running but ran out of diesel one day but ever since has been unable to start. The guy has taken it to a local mechanic who has diagnosed a faulty injector fuel pump. So the guy has it up for sale. My question is what’s the best way to approach this, should I replace with a secondhand unit or recondition the current unit and what would the cost be? What guides are there out there to fault diagnose the issue? Any advice would be appreciated Rob

Nice , when will it be available to purchase?

Good. Always best to mention such highly relevant details.

yes exactly,it will help

Bulgaria. It is a TDI, yes. Regarding "Poor Oil," it actually refers to the fixed service interval, not the LongLife one. I'm not sure why VAG labeled it as "Poor Oil," but the difference is that the fixed interval is 15,000 km, while LongLife is 30,000 km. As for the oil itself, I believe "Poor Oil" refers to the service regime rather than literally meaning that lower-quality oil is acceptable. Personally, though, even 15,000 km is waaay too long for an oil change. 🫠

I did have a look up there yesterday there are some signs of rust but it didn’t look too bad albeit does need some tlc I’ll be sure to have a good luck when I have a full day to get started and take things apart.

Ah. I replaced them last year.

Re waxoil. Mine were a bit rusty under covers in places. I decided to use waxoil as I had some old stuff and find its better at protecting previously rusty areas unless you rub down to bare metal ,treat and repaint. As mine was getting pretty bad I went with waxoil to try and hold back the rust. I did rub down the worse parts and treat with hydrate 80 before two coats of waxoil on top. Check up in suspension turret at front as well. Mine was getting rusty at top where top mount is. Seems to be stone chip but not all the way to top. Alasdair

What helps is making a video where both an issue and VIN are visible. This is the kind of evidence they cannot reject. I learned it from the workshop when I had faulty infotainment, they were making such videos themselves to present to Skoda as evidence.

Good shout, I’ll try the Tiger Seal, thanks! 👍

Oh exactly my friend I could have gone down the route of driving around in a soulless box rather than buy this mk2 but I just love the character that the older models have and I really want to put my own stamp on the car. I’m willing too and already have spent money on it in a full service as soon as I got the car and I’ve since changed the pcv,diverter valve,spark plugs to iridium and coils to r8 ones aswell as replacing my rear drivers side caliper which was stuck on. As you say no doubt things will go wrong but I’m willing to put the time and money into a car like this. Admittedly though I am a bit worried about the underside I just want to get it sorted so I can keep it for as long as possible. I don’t even have Bluetooth in mine never mind sat nav I need to upgrade that head unit for sure haha

Hi all, I’ve been searching for.a topic already out there on this but can’t seem to find one. I picked up my 2023 kodiaq a couple of months back and the dealer wanted to change it from flexible to fixed service, I assumed to make sure I went back more frequently. I always liked the flexible on my superb as it seemed to get the most value from a service so kept it on that. Some mechanics I’ve met in the past have said it’s a gimmick and you should always service every year or 10k miles. Is there a topic on this already that gives pros and cons? Any thoughts?

@Ned1 What country are you in or the car is? If you have a TDI i do wonder what the 'poor quality oil' is that it would be acceptable to run it on as far as Skoda / VW would find acceptable to keep a Manufacturers Warranty Valid.

As long as the engine / mechanicals last or are replaceable / repairable, hard to predict, so I would just protect against corrosion, do all services and replace all fluids including PS, brake and gearbox oil change (plus Haldex oil on 4WD) and afterwards enjoy driving the car, replacing worn out parts on occasion. Once corrossion is taken care of / prevented, there's still mechanical wear and tear including interior, but you can replace worn bushes, fans etc. Bear in mind your satnav will run out of updates at some point, if it has not already. My Mk1 Superb has had a visible drop in parts availability about 10 years from end of manufacturing, but I guess Octavia was made in so high numbers that there will be spare parts made for a long time. Mk1 and Mk2 Skodas in general were of better quality than later ones, including better noise reduction and better interior durability. I can certainly see it comparing the wear of our 14 year old "cheap car" Roomster to a 10 year old "family car" Mk3 Octavia vRS. In a way, it is also a curse, as due to crazy Skoda model line-up policies (no manual diesels except in basic Octavia, no varioflex seats anymore in Karoq) now would be a time to replace the Roomster or even both cars with a 3-5 year old Karoq, but I just cannot bring myself to replace a car with superior quality interior, versatility, space and range with something that admittedly looks marginally better on the outside and is a little bit faster on autobahn, but otherwise nowhere near as good value for money nor as reliable / durable / maintainable. Not to mention Mk1/Mk2 headlamps, at least projector ones, being vastly better for travel abroad at night (true flat beam, not dipped z-beam).

I have had no problems ... but I never trust their search patterns, for NO dealer/reseller, even those reliable and established ones like Rimmer Bros for my LR. Always double-check! Yes, is a small hassle yes, but it compensates by doing your own purchases and not paying extra % to a third party .... It is a classic that lots of parts are grouped/piled up by approximation, and particularly VAG is a nightmare for parts' codification. So always beware ... and don't trust the photos, unless they exactly reflect the item description and codes! I use this for checking part numbers, so far I have been satisfied: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851

I've not used, but seen Ridex parts and they are average aftermarket. The claim is that is an "autodoc" brand, so is similar in concept to ... for example a supermarket branding its "own" milk or dairy products. Nothing wrong per se but you have no idea of who is behind that ... not for me thanks. The established brands all have similar prices, but after years of experimentation, if I can, I buy genuine. I've started to notice this first years ago with air filters for my RRP38, the genuine item would be noticeable different than even a OEM like Mann or Mahle - thicker and lightly oiled paper elements, more supple rubber edges, and so on. Must make a difference, eh? For Skoda consumables (say for example Skoda-parts) the price difference in minimal, doesn't justify in my opinion to 'save a few quid' on parts that work on equipment which costs substantially more!

I'm likewise 302 but so far had zero offers of the 0334 update and continued daily minor updates that fail.

Hi Does it solve the problem with the volume rising on its own that caused by heat. I have the same problem, Volume increases by its own and even the screen has problem with responding to touch, even the 2 buttons on the left side not responding…..

Suit yourself, but your spark plugs may never have been looked at in the last 4 years and are a very basic 'car maintenance 101' item.

quick one, but would a torn PCV diaphram cause this stalling issue? I am about to pull the PCV assembly out of the valve cover & see if its intact. I cant seem to find replacement diaphrams only online but cheap enough to order the whole thing. I'll update on tis in 20 mins or so

NEVER EVER use standard bolts with spacers!! always get longer bolts, to compensate for the spacer thickness. also, make sure u get hub-centric spacers if ur going to get spacers.

Tbh I’m with Willie 94 Rather bemused with how to say HI “Go to section you’re interested in” That’s say hi? I dunno New to this social media vibe I guess