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Manufacturer of part, not car, recommends machine cleaning on 150000 miles, resetting ASH volume. you can do it or no. like lifetime oil in gearbox and other ****.

I got an emissions system warning light on a trip to Prague recently on my 186,000 mileage 2016 Skoda Superb 1.6 TDi Greenline. The car drove fine, all the way back to London. My diagnostics tablet indicated a glow plug fault on Cylinder 1. When I clear the fault it returns within a day or two, usually after a cool morning start. I already have torque wrenches, a socket set, a set of large circlip pliers and penetrating oil. This morning I've ordered a Bosch glow plug (BOS0250403009) from GSF, as well as a Wolfbox MF100 battery electric air blower and and Liqui Moly glow plug grease from ebay. I'll be using the circlip pliers to help remove the electrical connection. And a combination of penetrating oil and a torque wrench and a hot engine and patience over a few days to remove the old glow plug. Fingers crossed that this will be a straight-forward DIY job...

Still be less expensive to retain your old ICE car unless it requires thousands of pounds beibg spent on it. It costs around a thousand to have a home charger installed.

While I have no issue with your statement, you may find that a lot of cars show "accumulated ash" value at or near the limit coded in the ECU far earlier, around 100000mile mark, which again points to ECU signalling an imaginary problem using an imaginary ash value in order to either trade in the car or pay for a new DPF halfway through its life... just my opinion.

if I use the paddles on mine it displays M and the gear number if I don’t use the paddles to change up the DSG changes up at the redline to protect the engine and gearbox - which is the same as sport mode.

i have these, on 2WD, and will buy them again. Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6 235/45 R20 W (100) XL https://www.blackcircles.com/brands/bridgestone/turanza-all-season-6/235-45-r20-w-100?tyre=46696682 also other sizes available.

@minsy that is a really unusual behaviour from a DSG gearbox, I’ve driven DSG cars since 2013, currently have wet clutch DSG in the Karoq and dry clutch in the Fabia, previously had a VW Touran with wet clutch DSG never experienced anything like you have described. In everyday driving they have all changed all up between 1500 and 2000 rpm unless the throttle is pushed to the floor when they change up at the red line. I do know that the DSG adapts to driving style: I tow a twin axle car trailer, both the petrol Karoq and previous diesel VW Touran would hang on to the lower gears and change down when easing off on down hill sections for a day or so until they re-adapted to driving solo.

Sorry, I mixed up N522 (Oil Pressure Control Valve) and N523 (Piston Cooling Oil Control Valve). N523 was replaced three times (because the error code directly indicated this valve), but the actual culprit was N522, which they hadn't touched until my last visit. It turns out I had the wrong valve in mind right from the start. I kept saying N522 was replaced, but it was actually N523.

There seems to be a huge disconnect between what car manufacturers say about Diesel Particulate Filters (DPFs) and what actual parts makers and service technicians recommend. Car manufacturers often treat the DPF as a component that lasts until it completely clogs up, after which the official recommendation in the dealership is usually an expensive total replacement. However, automotive component manufacturers and repair professionals recommend preventive cleaning of particulate filters, particularly DPFs, between 150,000 and 200,000 miles. The main focus here is the clearance of accumulated residual ash, which cannot be burned off during normal vehicle driving or standard regeneration (since active and passive regeneration only handle soot, not ash). Letting the ash accumulate until total failure puts extreme thermal stress on the ceramic core and raises backpressure, which can heavily strain your turbo and engine. Doing a professional cleaning at higher mileages helps prolong component life and avoids a costly full replacement.

Depends who you are. If Saudi linked watch out. Talking to one of my colleagues they are completing massive extra paperwork for insurance going thru Red Sea and that sets the extra insurance premium plus Suez transition fees are up hugely too as Egypt was not getting its massivc canal revenue. I gather more Saudi oil is getting thru Hormuz and the pipeline has been repaired so flows ar me good at tge moment but it will take weeks or months for that oil to bring the prices down to prewar levels so well in to next year probably.

I should have said that eventually the abs and the traction control lights were also illuminated, found the sensor so today's task!

Tap the bottom left hand button under the scroll wheel on right of steering wheel, then use scroll wheel to switch display to mpg.

I do not know, in fact logic suggests opposite, i.e. higher tolerance to DPF pressure loss at end of regen when ash value is high as the base pressure loss due to ash would be higher. All I know is that the ash value has very little to do with actual pressure loss across the DPF / level of clogging. Perhaps, and I am only speculating, ECU could allow higher values of DPF pressure loss at end of regen when the ash value is high, as partly clogged DPF would have higher pressure loss than an empty one. Way to confirm this would be to take a car with low ash value that has trouble finishing regens, set its ash value to close to the limit and see if the regens improve. Never tried that. But most likely nothing / not much would happen until the DPF was actually clogged. A more sinister (but sadly likely) interpretation would be that the accumulated ash value counter as it is implemented was mainly put there into ECU to ensure profits of DPF manufacturers and exhaust workshops from replacement DPFs... who knows. In any case, if the ash value is over the limit yet your DPF is still fine, ash value can be adjusted down.

If you've used the paddles you're in sport mode ...

Hi Nakhar, I have messaged you ( I think!!) please respond via private messaging Regards Steve

Is the engines ECU making more frequent dpf regens when the ash load value is closing the maximum of 80g? Even if the dpf wasnt really that full at all? I would think that its a precaution to protect the engine and dpf.

Out of interest, if I would now edit the ash load value with OBD11 back to 0g with my original dpf with ash load value now showing 57g, what would happen? Even if the dpf wasnt cleaned?

For best fit rather than rock bottom price, it's easy, I have been using skoda-parts.com for many years, parts by Skoda/VW number, checked against your car's VIN, either original part or a decent quality alternative (often a choice of both), and you can still ask them further by sending a message if you are not sure. Some things are worth getting from Autodoc though, as they can be a lot less expensive for premium quality, for example zinc coated brake discs. But you really have to triple check part numbers with Autodoc, both Skoda and specific part manufacturer's, and make sure you get sent what you ordered and not a cheap alternative. It can be a fuss with Autodoc, but can be worth £100+ on a brake disc order alone when compared to say ECP. As for UK suppliers, I occasionally use GSF or ECP as they are both local to me, but for any larger order than £50, like e.g. 2 quality rear suspension springs, I find GSF and ECP are often double the price of skoda-parts. I do not order many used parts, but I have used ebay on odd occassion for these. HTH

Yes, but you can adapt the value to a smaller number. I had to in the Roomster (CAYC engine), as it came from factory with regen causing issues (and fuel in oil) that were only fixed after quite a few regens over a period of a year or so, and resulted in 15g "accumulated ash" that simply wasn't there. It is just a number that can be edited.

@tombee OEMs were cut off before the bend, and the new AMGs were welded on right there

Okay, thank you. But if the calculated soot mass is over 80g limit, the ecu will can disabled or go to error. Regardless of the actual value.

Another thought, if your black plastic trims, perhaps the wing mirrors too, unless they're painted, are now grey, wash them off, wipe over with alcohol, allow to dry and coat with a very thin film of baby oil. Cheap as chips (actually much cheaper nowadays) and works. It may need a re coat every few months, but it's so cheap it's worth it. I posted the wrong link above a better one is https://youtu.be/kVYPYF_n_Ms

Jenolite is good, I think it has both tannic and phosphoric acid in. I used to use Lanoguard, and before that I've used the Bilt Hamber stuff. Have a look at mobile rust doctor on youtube. He recommends the BH stuff, and interestingly suggests NOT power washing, but just dry brushing and treating. He says why on the vids. Yours are ok from what I see in the pictures, definitely worth doing. The suspension bits should be reasonably ok, otherwise it would have been flagged at the last MOT. With the chassis don't be afraid to really mechanically attack the rust. If it's gone through, welding repair is a must. The car is generally worth saving, as they were build better than the modern Stellantis style offerings. I was lucky as I bought mine about 8 years ago and did everything I could see, so the suspension got coated then, with Lano, but every year it needed doing again in places. With BH it gives a dryer coat that is more robust, and is overall cheaper. They also have a tech department which has proved useful when I had my usual picky questions, though their website info is very comprehensive. One thing that is useful is a compressor so you can blow all the dust away before coating, then because everything is dry, the jenolite can creep into everything. I was surprised also how much loose paint flakes got lifted and removed by the air. Another thing is having a large 2 deep plant watering tray to put on the ground to catch the crud, then it's just lift it and tip it. If you use an electric wire brush anywhere, avoid the angle grinder ones. They are dangerous, and burnish the rust instead of just removing it. It looks good, but the surface then stops the Jenolite getting down to the metal. The BH stuff also has rust inhibitors in, so any bits you can't get with Jenolite will be caught by BH, which will also go over grease at a push, so no need to worry about degreasing. My budget for anti corrosion and other MOT related fixes is £2000 a year. Sounds a lot, but it's £40 a week, and where can you get a car for that? If it passes the MOT it's a useful piece of kit, if it fails it's useless, and worth very little. Here's a rustdoctor link, https://youtu.be/1RAw9UqUZXM (and there's more) his vids are good, whereas some, well................I have better ways to waste time. Would be good to see how you get on. Mine will be welded in just over a week, so I'll post the finished results. I will take the liners off again next year, if I had done that 8 years ago I wouldn't have welding to do now. Every day's a school day.

I followed the instructions and smartlink is activated, thank you

Hi everyone, I recorded two videos of a strange noise coming from somewhere around or behind the glovebox on the passenger side, although sometimes it sounds like it’s coming from the center of the dashboard. The car is a Škoda Octavia IV 1.5 TSI e-TEC mild hybrid. In the first video, the noise occurs when I release the accelerator and the car goes into coasting/mild-hybrid mode, with the engine shutting off and the RPM dropping to 0. At that moment, I hear this strange sound. When I press the accelerator again and the engine restarts, I hear the same sound again. It sounds almost like some kind of flap or actuator opening and closing. In the second video, you can hear basically the same sound, but this time I’m manually turning the climate control/AC off and back on. Has anyone experienced something similar or know what could be causing this? Video_01.mp4Video_02.mp4