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Difference is a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch from a 6 or 7 speed wet clutch DSG. Wet clutch can slip some, a dry clutch should not be slipping. They should and do drive slightly different. @McDuff Do you happen to be in Macduff?

Thanks for that info pab567. I didn't know how to bring up that service menu. Do you know if any of those codes relate to the phone function? And being temporarily rejected, does that mean they need to be enabled in a s/w load?

That fault sounds to me like an issue with the SD port - is the updated SD card you tried a branded Skoda one?

thank you for replying , the car is going back to the auto electrician next week so hopefully he can get to the bottom of what's going on with my lights at least for the meantime .

I have the CTEK charger too, ran a recond programme on my battery a couple of times and a few good, long runs later and it's (almost) as good as new. I don't leave mine on a trickle or anything but if I'm ever plugging in an OBD device then I hook it up. Best money I ever spent

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm reassured that it works as I thought. Cheers 🍻

Hi @Madrunner , I'm based in France and looking for a replacement LHD Yeti (specifically a 1.2 TSI 110 PS petrol / manual). Is it worth having a conversation? I can't message you privately with my contact info as I don't have the required 'credits' but maybe you do..?

Sorry to laugh, but every tme I come back to this topic is to have a laugh at the "get rid of 'em trees" 😄

Strange indeed, but I think you need again a good look and diagnostic at the charging system, alternator (how much is pulling out and wether the rectifier - that the word in English? - is working), also do not discount that even the battery you replaced was ruined by the failing alternator during the time between replacement of both. It would be also worth checking if the BMS - Battery Management System - in the car is working properly (but for this you need to have a diagnostics like VCDS or OBD11), and wether the proper type battery and size was correctly installed and coded in the system. Do not exclude anything, unfortunately. Do not rule out anything, at least at this stage. Once more knowledgeable on the problem, is easier to take measures ...

@McDuff If your car has ACC & it's enabled, it will drive itself in traffic.

Correct - I’ve not found the clutches to slip when crawling in traffic at idle rpm. I drive many manual cars, vans minibuses and they will all crawl on the level in first gear totally feet off the clutch and throttle. The DSG is no different. My last DSG VW did 108,000 miles and the was as good as the day I bought it new.

I'll message you later (this evening) to ask privately for VIN.

Agree with @scotthugh3s, check your 12v battery. It's so often the cause of many electrical gremlins, even if the voltage is only slightly down it will start playing up. I keep mine connected to a CTEK smart charger if the car is to be left standing for longer than two days at a time. It's eliminated any such electrickery.

No I checked it

It's manually retractable as far as I can see, like the OEM towbar, not electric.

I have sent you a direct message

I'd be inclined to send it back. That's even worse than the skinny 18".

Just wondering, my dpf light still coming on seem be every 170 miles, drive it in 4th for 15-20 mins, it goes out then. Anyone ever try a dpf cleaner, to put into tank? Or do they even work? Thanks

There are no 1.0 TSI Citigo,s in Europe, only South America with a bigger fuel tank. So 60 or 75PS MPI,s. It is a VW UP! to get a Turbo.,

Howdy Seeking a way to enable closing of the factory electric tailgate by holding the original interior release button. Vehicle: 2022 Superb III 3V facelift Control unit 6D: 5WC 959 107 Hardware: H04 Software: 0430 ODX: EV_DeckLidCONTIAU536 OBDeleven shows the adaptation channel “Activation using rear lid remote unlocking switch”, but it contains no selectable values. I’m wondering whether there is already any work on: a compatible original or modified parameter dataset for this exact module; the dataset ID/version used; a confirmed ODIS-E/VCTool/VCP procedure? I am not looking for instructions intended for the older 5Q0959107 controller.

Thanks @mac11irl . The one I'm looking at is a 1.0 MPI. I test drive another a week or so ago and just can't remember if that sounded the same but the car pulled well for 60bhp so maybe it's just the way it is. I did sneak a quick DTC check and nothing concerning c. came up. I also drove it round the block again after I posted and didn't really hear the wheeze so maybe it's my ears... If we do buy it I'll go on a hunt as my daughter's pretty keen on it... And if it needs a service, cambelt and check over it won't be the end of the world.

When Autohold is enabled it is not the Parking Brake E-Brake operating. That is rear brakes only. Autohold has the same function as the Foot Brake which you pushed to have Autohold Enabled. Front and Rear brakes. Any movement and there is more brake pressure applied.

Hi folks, I keep getting these codes on my 03 1.4 16v BBZ powered Mk1 Fabia. I keep thinking along the lines of the MAP sensor but not 100%. Both myself and the recovery service I had to call out cannot find am issue with the pipework which I know is a common issue with these. When it fails the car goes into limp mode, with EPC, ASR, and the engine lights all lit. Further it also occasionally loses all power resulting in it kangarooing if the throttle is pressed. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

Thanks for that. Any advice on the trim removal will be useful. I normally manage to break something finding out how it's fixed!

Thanks TT, So when the car is rolling forward at idle with foot off brake, the clutch should not be slipping?