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Thanks for upload. Definitely gives an insight to my Issue :) The file can be opened in Excel. Here's what I put together after a quick look. Starting at timestamp 417.51. The first column is throttle valve angle, second is engine RPM, next is specified and actual boost. The actual boost value follows specified boost, except for engine speed under 2000RPM. Does it correlate with how the car feels?

If you've the time, and facilities, it's worth switching you tyres front to rear regularly (say every 6 - 7,000 miles). Tyre wear varies from wheel to wheel. This maximise the life of each tyre and ensure that the tyres wear uniformly. For uni-directional tyres, it's rears to fronts and fronts to rear - keeping the tyres on the same side. If you've got non-directional tyres you can cross the rears as you move them to the front (OR to NF, and NR to OF), but keep the fronts on the same side as you move them to the rear (OF to OR, NF to NR). As you say "Each to their own and live and let live etc", but you've got to 'live' to achieve that (as do your passengers, family members and other road users!). Tyres are arguable the most important safety equipment on any vehicle.

Try to reset the unit to factory settings.

Hello thanks for swift reply. Yes your spot on it is DQ381 ACT FWD. My car gearbox light did flash up few weeks ago but just vanished and never came back so here i am searching for answers... arnold clark want £688 for a full DSG service😤 Henrys skoda want £375 but they are saying filter doesnt need done yet they're sytems schedule is at 75000miles

As above, generally my fronts wear quickest so when it comes the time to replace them, the rears go on the front and the new ones go on the rear. I want the front to give way first so the best tyres go at the back. Always the same make/model and only ever the 2 on the same axle. That is entirely my choice based on what I choose to believe etc. Each to their own and live and let live etc

How hard are these to change.,.. I can see the nuts... But some people say I have to drop the sub frame

Generally interior materials have some sort of grain; be it leathers or plastics. When you get marks on them the difficulty is often not getting into all the little cracks and differences in the surface. Generally, a damp cloth is great way to clean a lot of surface grime off - get a couple of light coloured flannels and you’ll see how the dirt comes off on them (choose cotton flannels so you can give them a hot wash as MF cloths shouldn’t be washed above 40degrees). However to get right into all the nooks and crannies then get a dedicated interior cleaner and a medium soft detailing brush - small circles moving around, so that the bristles get into every gap from different directions. Gentle pressure, let the tips of the bristles and the product do the work rather than pressure and elbow grease. For steering wheels, get a brush like a shoe brush (long and flat) rather than paintbrush long-handle. Same thing, spray product on the brush so you avoid overspray and gentle circles all around. Let us know how you get on @vblanche

Doing my first Oil change on this car. Presuming the filter is76mm 14 flute. Is clearance sufficient to use a 3 Claw tool or 14 flute 76mm Cup tool. Also sump bolt purchased is 29.5 mm total length. Is this the correct part - M14x1.5 Engine Oil Sump Drain Plug N90813201? See photo below. Thank you PoloPaul

More info added to my post. No idea what the previous owner was up to.

Sounds like the issue I had but obviously needs to be looked at (check my post history to see the drama I went through!). Should be sorted FOC by Skoda Dealer even if car out of warranty (it if is the same issue - variator pulley bolts loosening themselves. Get it sorted ASAP as if they come out while driving could cause a lot more damage!).

Interesting. I got this car second-hand with these bulbs in it. If they were never intended to function, I wonder why the previous owner installed LEDs and why they are wired at all. :) Edit: but yes, they indeed look like W5W LEDs.

It's normal, they don't function if you have fog lights which function as DRLs IIRC. They left the factory with blue W5W bulbs. @Evolution13 might have a fuller answer? The above is from my Fabia Scout with fogs and the blue bulbs don't work as DRLs as it has LES fog lights. Below is my old MkII which didn't have fog lights but the blue W5W bulbs were the DRLs.

Exact same issue on my 2018 Fabia Combi. Only on drivers side and so loud. Tried spraying silicone lubricant down onto the rubber but that only lasted a week or two. I think it's because the rubber has deteriorated and is now cracked and very dry. Came here to see if someone had replaced the rubber and if it was a DIY job.

I don't know, the first click in the light switch turns on the light on the bumper (bottom right in the 2nd photo). I am not sure if this bulb should come up with that too.

Okay, I will try. Thanks for your reply 😊

I genuinely spent thousands of pounds with Audi over the years and this is the first one for me.

Yes, that's what I did.

Is it the marker light, that someone replaced with leds? Not the DRL, the first click in the light switch parking light

It's happened to me before that an OEM replacement part was defective right out of the box... it's definitely a life experience you'll never forget.

In my Fabia Mk2, I have a smaller bulb inside the large headlight unit, top left from the headlight bulb in this photo. I have never seen it lit, however all required lights (DRL, fog light, high beam, etc.) work as intended. At first I assumed it was just a dummy like in vRS models, but after taking a closer look, I noticed it has LEDs on in, and it is also wired. Do you have any idea what it could be?

I hope you are all sitting down. The answer, none of the above. 5,5 months Just over £2k spent 7 Technicians inc 3 master techs with combined 110 years of experience. Every single f**ker telling me it's normal, it's how they sound. They are loud engines. Yeah, sure. This was only fuelling my ridiculous perseverance. This was my genuine and last attempt at this, today, before part-exing the car. The solution was inspired by my friends story. Story, which is beyond ridiculous and impossible and I'm not asking you to believe his story. Not that long ago he was sorting a timing chain on his S3 using only genuine parts. And before you say, oh, for sure he did something wrong. He didn't. What he doesn't know it's not worth knowing. The actual number of attempts it's ridiculous so all I will say is that it was more than 2. Eventually, a good friend of ours dropped of an aftermarket parts to him and yeah, you guessed it, or not, car was fixed. Between my last post and today, I also preformed another smoke test, intercooler bypass, Racingline Diverter valve with double the amount of seals and more VCDS diagnostics. How I approached this last attempt is this. For every problem you will have a list of items to test. All got ticked. Then a number of extra items was added to the list. All got ticked. Back to square one and this is where I got "inspired" by my friends timing chain issue. I replaced the PCV valve, again. Car fixed !!! Now, I need you to stop for a minute and just think what is happening here, because I don't believe for a second that both examples are isolated and when nothing makes sense, unfortunately, these days, you have to stop and question the quality of the genuine parts. Remember, back in February, Skoda dealer, replaced my original PCV with a genuine one. I ordered, same part number, same manufacturer (Kengst) genuine VAG PCV made in the same country to fix this. And no, no pinched seal or cracks or damage or whatever else may come to your mind. As I said, due to the "state" of the motor industry, when you tried everything and nothing makes sense, you've got to consider the fact that the genuine brand new part you just fitted was faulty before it has left the factory. >>>>>>> For ADMIN / MODERATOR consideration <<<<<<<<<< Please consider making this post sticky or make a new thread, I don't care. I genuinely don't wish anyone to go thru the bull**** I went thru especially when your car is under warranty and you don't want to void it, which is why I made sure to source identical PCV with 2025 date on eBay for 70quid, new. Same PN and everything. 5 months of stress, head scratching, nearly loosing my mind and a £2000 bill on top of that....all while having a Skoda Warranty and 110 years of experience between the master techs. Skoda dealer showed me another 2.0 TSI Kodiaq with identical issue, no fault codes, whistling and whooshing, which they deemed as normal, meaning the owner is simply unaware that he is driving a car with a fu*ked PCV. No faut codes, no abnormal data log = the dealer will stamp it as "normal behaviour". Thank you for all your suggestions and take care.

Tell me your exact Software Train

The previous log I made is attached. Not sure if it's any use. I did try to plot it using something that someone linked to above I think, but can't find that graph. LOG-01-IDE00021_&amp;4 - Copy.CSV If someone can make any use of it, or tell me anything from it, I'll be delighted.

Many thanks, I have gone through all 97 pages but cannot see my issue

Welcome. Is this The Skoda Dealership or an Independent in Stirling? So is it a 1.2TSI? When were the Spark Plugs replaced? Have they not been inspected? I would expect they were since a borescope done. Did they look OK and not changed? Can we assume the Air Filter has been checked and is clean? PS. Just nosy, is it E10 Unleaded you use. Just there have been plenty with issues with Fuel since the Iran situation. What Petrol do you buy?