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Personally I’m not sure but there are plenty on here who would have more knowledge than I! Does it have dcc currently or just standard shocks?

I agree. Would you recommend any particular Bilstein part number for my Greenline Estate? Bearing in mind it sits a little bit lower than the standard car (for the fuel economy). And that it's a comfy spacious cruising car and not a performance model, with the 1.6 TDi engine.

How does the wiring for the new buttons get through the clockspring?

Heated steering wheel I got for a great price brand new. Had the stitching re-done to match my paint, Dragon Skin Green. Installing additional buttons for drive mode and Stop/Start. Not a brilliant fit on the casing for the buttons, the optimal position for this bracket would then have one of the screws go thru a mount guide for the MFSW centre surround. I also struggled to get the screws to go in to mount the button on the wheel, I had to drill out the holes for width and depth to suit the screws. Right PITA.

I ran Michelin Cross Climates on our mk2 Octavia 4x4 and was very impressed with them, replacing them a few times over the years. Wear rate was good, they were quiet and good in bad weather. I was going to put the same on our Kodiaq but spotted a Costco bargain on Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons so am trying those. I've only had them on since earlier this year so no idea on how they perform in snow but they seem quiet and good in wet weather thus far and seem to be wearing OK too. My mum has Bridgestone Weather Control A005 on her Jazz and has had no issues either.

Thx for the info @milloo24 To clarify, my car has rear top LED from factory. I just need to find an inner lamp assembly 5E6 945 308C(RHD) at good price to complete "both fog lamps" tiny retrofit.

Sounds like a good justification for some bilsteins!

left inner light LHD and RHD use same part number 5E6 945 307 A (hatchback) right inner light 5E6 945 308 A (LHD) 5E6 945 308 C (RHD) outer lights are same for LHD,RHD even should be same with estate

Welcome to the forum. SWMBO has a MY18 Fabia similar to you - but with the 1.0TSI 110 engine and in silver.

Width of spade. Its normally 6.3mm. It could be that it has become slightly too wide so by crimping the rolled sections wont make it hold very well. Either replace it or try and squeeze the rolled sections together slightly to reduce overall width Check the earth on the radio as well. If replacing make sure you use one suitable for the thickness of wire. From memory blue is 1.5-2.5mm and yellow is 3-6mm. Thats the cross sectional area of wire. Alasdair

Took my 190,000 miles 2016 Greenline Estate in for its' MOT today. It passed with advisories on both rear shock absorbers and front suspension bushes on both sides. I'm happy. Last year it passed with no advisories when it was on 167,000 miles. I intend replacing the shock-absorbers myself. Probably in the spring, when it gets a bit warmer. I'm not sure about the suspension bushes? Maybe I'll do them myself, maybe I'll get a VAG specialist to do them.

Correct! Feeding all these information to an AI agent, he conducted that for a LHD car I'll need a top LED assembly from a RHD car in order to have both fog lamps working, since the actual led and power supply are missing, same principle apply for an RHD car. In your case you have made a mix of TOP led assembly units from both LHD and RHD cars, what I'm now looking for. Thanks @milloo24

Welcome to the forum. I switched to Conti Contact All Seasons in January this year - too early to report on wear, but very happy with grip in wet and lower tyre noise on dry roads.

The wire is an extension of about 10cm to give some slack for engine movement probably fitted due to problems earlier on with it coming lose when ASZ engine made. This is BLT. When the car returns home do I measure width of spade or it's length? Ta

Assuming the wire connector is female, the best idea would be to replace the connector - being careful not to shorten the wire too much if slack to loom is limited.

Has anyone found a jack pad insert for the Octavia Mark 4? Powerflex say they don't do one. However, I wonder if the PF3-1663 for Mark 3's will fit if one is prepared to adapt the underbody panels by trimming the existing holes back a little. The plastic plugs in the floor are clearly visible. Please let me know if you can advise on this. Many thanks

I'll check battery voltage drop across battery. Earth to starter is tight and I cleaned contact. I had a wiggle of cable when fitting starter motor and no sign of breakage and what I could see of cable was uncorroded. AI says 6.3mm spade which from memory fits what I saw. The spade is loose in direction it pushes on/off, not sideways if that is how spade sizes change (on width)? The tightness of the fit wasn't great before on old starter. I'd spotted looseness some years ago and I'd put duct tape holding cable in place, just in case.

Sounds far more frequent than mine based on that.

It's happened twice today, rebooting information seems to fix it, so it seems to be a car thing, not Octopus.

If it says unplugged I unplug and plug it back it. I think this is a backend issue with the 'handshake'

Do you ever get the false 'not plugged in when it is issue?

I'd say higher than 75% of the time. I just have to check charge port is green when I plug in then I check the schedules been created by Octopus

You could always do what I've done with our Kodiaq... 12v LED strip stuck under the rigid roller part of the parcel shelf wired in via a connector to the existing side mounted boot lights. It works a treat and no issues with it staying on or flagging a bulb warning.

Best asked on the Octavia Mk4 forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/396-skoda-octavia-mk4-2020/

I have the same set up. It works about 75% of the time. However, sometimes it fails to charge altogether. Others (like now), Octopus says the car is not plugged in at home when it is. Has been like this for the 6 months I've owned the car. I suspect it's an issue with the car, not Octopus. Does it work faultlessly for you?