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@Coral-C : So, we have just completed the 360 mile trip to Windsor from Scotland. M6 / M40. Not the best journey due to a combination of heavy rain, English half-term school holidays and the usual weekday traffic - plenty of accidents and delays. Get a grip people! Speaking of grip, I focused on the issue of gripping the steering wheel while using the semi-autonomous driving technology. It's a bit weird. Initially, travelling south from Carlisle to the Tebay Services in the Lakes, I had very few alerts such that I was already formulating my response to you that things were fine in our Superb. The second stint to the M6 toll services was not so good though. Plenty of alerts such that it spoilt the experience of the technology. I found myself bemoaning it to the ever-patient Mrs A over an overpriced cuppa, on the overpriced Midland Expressway toll road (I shall never complain about French or Italian tolls again, even if the Italian motorway infrastructure has a record of collapsing in and around Genova). But then the final stint down to Windsor was pretty good with only one alerts. My tentative conclusion? I need to test it again when we head north! I wonder if using the heated steering wheel might affect it. I know that a slight wriggle of the steering wheel clears the warning but so does simply tightening my grip of the wheel, in any position - debunking the theory about specifically positioned contact sensors. On that final stint I was very conscious of my hand placement and grip, somewhat defeating the purpose of the technology which is meant to lighten the mental load. I only had one warning about not paying attention which was justified as I was preoccupied with the touchscreen at the time. I hate using the screen to access settings while driving and ask Mrs A to watch the road while I am briefly fiddling. I did get warnings about taking a break after as little as 70mins which tells me that the car doesn't rate my normal driving style then 😅. More generally, I found the technology very useful in traffic jams or convoys. But my brain is still far better at reading the road ahead, second guessing the behaviour of other road users and maintaining flow & momentum. But the technology lulls me into laziness, even if the overall drive is not so enjoyable. And I enjoy driving. So the technology is good, very good but not perfect. I am glad we have it though and with time I will become more adept at using it seamlessly. I will test this again on our way back to Scotland later in the week and post again on this thread. Best wishes.

If the little red light on the fob doesn't flash then reach for the 2032's before it lets you down - I test for the flashing light before each service inasmuch as the dealer picks up on it and offers to do the change for a kings ransom.........

Hello everyone, I’m new to the forum. I’m looking for the safest way to upgrade my current infotainment version (1810) to a subsequent intermediate version. Based on my research across various forums, it seems that this outdated version often triggers errors—such as issues with the SOS call system or the ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) radar becoming unavailable. I am unable to log in as the primary user or perform any online updates, and the infotainment system is quite slow; for these reasons, I would like to update it. Thanks in advance!

Sent in PM

Link to download MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T sent in PM. You can go directly from 0353 to 0369.

Welcome to Briskoda @Dudelange 👏

Big hello to all the forum members! I’m new here, and I’m the new owner of a Škoda Octavia 2.0 TDI (110 kW) with a DSG transmission and the 'Style' trim level. I have only one photo at the moment, but I’ll make sure to share some soon. I’m from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and I have a general interest in computers and technology. I look forward to a great community experience, exchanging useful advice, and sharing knowledge and experiences!

The language of this forum is English, please post ONLY in English.

Hello I am having problems with my Sat Nav not displaying village names, an issue I have been trying to solve since 2024. It's a very puzzling issue as the same map file loaded on my friend's Golf displays the village names! My Octavia Scout still has what I suspect is the original firmware: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0241T I don't know if there is some incompatibility between the old firmware and the newer map files (if I install an older version of maps the names are displayed), it might be worth trying an update to: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0253T I don't need any fancy connectivity upgrades, just trying to fix the maps. I cannot seem to find anywhere to find the file - can anyone help?

I think you meant 6V0093860B rather than 6VA093860B, as there's no such part as 6VA093860B. 6V0093860B is a Fabia MK3 part number not a Fabia MK4 part number, as shown in the link below. Spare wheel kit 6V0693860B (Fabia MK3) https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6v0093860b-spare-wheel-replacement-kit-skoda-25130.html

It depends on your use case everyone is different. You can get low 50s on flat motorway but mid twenties n slow traffic. Overall the engine is pretty economical given the performance available. The car isn’t optimised for economy. For contrast I’ve been driving a new Peugeot 2008 for the last 2 months on holiday and over 9,000km it’s averaged 49mpg. That’s a mix of slow traffic to 130-140km/h from a 1.2l turbo triple mild hybrid. Not bad but I’m looking forward to getting back into the Skoda

I bought a 2020 Octavia with 2.0 TDI ( DSTA / EA288 EVO ) and DSG DQ381. I drove around for couple of weeks and everything was good, engine didn't make weird noises etc. I was actually surprised how smooth mild and quiet engine sounded for a diesel. I then went to Škoda dealer and got the timing belt, water pump replaced as kilometrage was just over 120 000km and 6 years had passed. At first I did not notice anything but slowly I started hearing more and more different noises coming from the engine. I don't know if I was deaf before? Anyway I hear very faint high pitch ticking when I press accelerator and some other weird noises I can't describe. But what bothers me the most is that old Transit van rattle that was not there before. This not only happens when engine is cold but can even happen when engine is fully warmed up after 30 minutes of driving. Other times it's decently quiet and not noticeable at all for some reason? And in some cases this rattle is EXTRA loud. Can happen while accelerating or even driving at steady rpm. Also there is odd clunk that sounds like knock when I am stationary and tap the accelerator quickly. Video below. Possible DMF related? Tell me if I am just crazy and it always was there or whether there is actually something wrong. Anyway couple of videos. Transit van like rattle at mild acceleration. 5-10 minutes after cold start. In some cases sounds 3x as loud. Phones microphone is not very good at picking up the sound. Clunk / knock:

Possible Causes & Diagnostic Steps 1. Bent or Rusted Brake Dust Shield: Why it happens: The metal plate behind the brake disc rusts easily on Felicias. If it is slightly bent or has accumulated rust around its perimeter, it comes into contact with the rotating rotor. When you turn the steering wheel, the microscopic shifting of the wheel causes it to touch or move away. What to do: Jack up the car, remove the wheel, and gently push the shield backward (away from the rotor) using a screwdriver. Clean off any flaking rust that might be rubbing against the disc. 2. CV Joints / Axle: Why it happens: A worn outer CV joint can produce a metallic noise that changes depending on the steering wheel angle. What to do: Inspect the rubber boots for any tears. If the grease has leaked out or water/dirt has gotten inside, the joint dries out and causes friction. 3. Suspension Mounts and Bushings (Control Arm Bushings): Why it happens: If the control arm bushings are worn out ("sagged"), the entire suspension strut shifts under load (e.g., at 60-80 km/h due to aerodynamic pressure and rolling resistance). This alters the alignment of the components, causing friction that disappears as soon as you turn. What to do: Use a pry bar to check for play (looseness) in the control arm bushings and the ball joints. 4. Improperly Seated or Defective New Wheel Bearing: Why it happens: Even though it was replaced, if the bearing was not pressed completely straight (properly seated) into the steering knuckle, the wheel hub may sit at a slight angle. This causes the brake rotor to wobble and rub against the brake pads. This explains why light braking makes the noise disappear.

Make & Model: Skoda Fabia Mk1 52-plate Colour: Energy Blue Mileage: 114589 Price: £1195 Description: 2002 Fabia classic fastback 1.4MPI Condition: Surprisingly tidy for age, virtually no body rust. Pictures below, but additional ones can be taken on request. MOT due Sept 2027 Basic model with no central locking or electric windows. Engine runs nicely and pulls well. Could be a lovely easy start to a project, or just a 'good to go' vehicle for anyone who doesn't mind simplicity. Private Message me please or post here with questions. Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Haven't owned it for long, but swapped out coolant tank and coolant for fresh. Serviced and brakes all attended to. New rocker cover gasket to fix oil leak. Leaky rear door fixed. 5J 14" steel wheels upgraded to 6J; 185/60/14 tyres in good condition, including matching spare. Extras: N/A Mods: N/A Shipping: N/A Collection: Yes, Highworth SN6 Pictures:

There is a Derby based manufacturer of struts, several years ago I bought a pair for my Yeti, they are still going strong. I can't find their contact details currently but maybe someone else might have their details! Do a google search on SGS Raynesway Derby

Is it possible to send me also the link

Same warning light comes on yellow to indicate low level, as read by sensor in sump. Some older engines may not have level/temperature sender in sump, but most do. Any that can be set to variable/longlife service schedule will have it.

i remember advice from my old garage that if the oil light comes on on newer skoda/vw damage is being done as its based on oil pressure not oil level. You should stop engine and check oillevel immediatley as oil level could be critically low On older cars you had an oil level sensor and oil pressure so you get a bit more warning when level was low. My old volvo 940 used to ping up warning if I took corners too hard. Alasdair

The link you quoted advertises a Skoda Fabia 2015-2026 spare-wheel/tool-kit, suggesting suitability for a Fabia Mk3 (2014-2020) AND a Fabia Mk4 (2021-2026). The accompanying photo refers to a Skoda Fabia (NJ). NJ is the Type reference for a Fabia Mk3 (the Fabia Mk4 has a Type reference of PJ.) and the jack shown in the photo is clearly the compact 'cantilever' design used with the MK3 and unusable with Mk4 cars. The 'scissors' jack in the Fabia Mk4 tool-kit could probably be used with a Fabia Mk3, but not vice versa. I had a look at the 'official' spare-wheel/tool-kit in my 2023-built Fabia Mk4 to see if I could spot a tool-kit Part Number, but, although there had obviously been a paper label stuck on the top surface of the polystyrene 'box', this was no longer there. Anyway, I'm sure that the correct Part Number for a Mk4 tool-kit is 6VA093860A My car has the standard 15"-diameter steel wheel fitted with a 185/65 R15 tyre and there is a reasonable amount of space between the tyre's tread and the sides of the spare-wheel well. However, when inserting my spare-wheel into the wheel-well, it needs to be slid beneath a plastic trim-piece at the rear of the luggage compartment (ie, on the rear bumper side) and I'm not sure if a wider 195/55 tyre would allow this to happen. The other caveat relates to the polystyrene 'box', A Fabia Mk4's luggage-compartment floor is just made of thin hardboard and weight placed on it is supported by raised areas on the top of the polystyrene box (some of those areas are green-marked on the image below). If a wider wheel/tyre were used, it's likely that the polystyrene box would sit higher up and the floor would not close properly. But I don't see this as a major problem, as modifying the box (ie. reducing the height of the raised areas) should not be difficult.

You can try to desolder vcc...

It's mounted high up on the engine facing downwards into a vertical threaded hole , so it wouldn't surprise me if oil drained away from it after engine shutdown.

I bought some for my Octavia on Ebay. Weren't expensive and worked fine.

I can top that, though not VW group. My sister has a Peugeot 107 which - twice in my recent experience - has been 2 litres low with a 3.1 litre capacity without putting the level warning light on. I don't hold out a lot of hope for a long future for this particular (1KR) engine. Sounded like it was sorely missing this oil before the latest top-up.

Hello, first of all, thank you very much for your reply. The car has been checked several times by different mechanics. It doesn't make this noise when stationary, and it doesn't happen all the time while driving either. When it does occur, it starts suddenly and stops as soon as I apply the brakes. That's why we focused on the brake pads and discs, but unfortunately, replacing them didn't solve the problem.

Just had a thought. Can you set the map/nav view as a background in the virtual cockpit on the FL VRS? On later pre-FL the mapping can be shown in the virtual cockpit (alas not my early build ).