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Agree with using the penetrating oil but, when the time comes, use a T-bar wrench so that you apply a pure torque, this minimises the risk of snapping the glowplug. 🤞for you!

Personally i would leave it as is. If the DSG functions properly.

Cheers pete They do have the bump and I got the tool a while ago. Just never got round to doing them as they werent too bad at the time. MOT soon and reckon its a fail this time as ones knocking slightly and as I already have all parts including new arms might as well do it. Didnt realise had to lift engine but have a cross beam lift as I did the clutch a while back so shouldnt be too difficult. I assume I have to remove engine support and maybe dogbone? Alasdair

Mine is a petrol 1.2

Hopefully insurance will cover it. You could phone around autolocksmiths and ask if they can clone MQB platform key. I had another look and it does look as though it requires specialist software etc. Unless they have it it wont work. We have a local one that specializes in VAG group . Alasdair

Hi Gaz, just had a quick look at the YT it's for a 1.6 diesel, the under the hood layout is different to mine, but thanks for the link anyway!

Hi Evolution, thanks for your reply. I have only owned the car since the beginning of the year so can't confirm about the oil change however I have had a look in the tire well and there are 3 stickers, one is I believe the original one put in at the time the car was built it has all the details of the car, engine, paint etc.. then 2 local dealer stamps (see pics) one is dated Dec 2014 so it might be that the work was done? Wasn't quite sure what your "'34F7'" meant. Re 'best to know what you are doing' I totally agree, my brother who does any work on the cars is a mechanical engineer and is very switched on, he has changed oil in regular gearboxes but has never worked on a DSG box in a Skoda. The Haynes paper manual does not cover the DSG and beside YT I am struggling to find exact info on what to do/ don't do for this car so hence my request here!

Thanks to Breezy_Pete for your quick reply to my parts problem. My garage have put a larger pipe over the split pipe and used jubilee clips to hold it in place. The part number 6Q2 612 041 CD and I have contacted various parts suppliers including Germany and Czech Republic but the replies are the same that the part is no longer available. My garage has assured me that their repair is good and my Farbie is safe to drive. I get the impression the only hope to get the actual part is from a breakers but not sure where the best suppliers of those type of parts is to be found so any suggestions much appreciated.

I like the big fat Elephant and would spend £120,000 on one if looking at getting a £120,000 car. But they have revealed a car with Door Handles that will not be allowed in China and maybe other countries around the globe sooner rather than later.

And I thought Irish prices were high, got my timing belt done on a 2.0tdi in June for €800 at the main Skoda dealer in my town, in fairness they did have a promotion on save €100

My 2017 is at 353,000 km, and is mostly original apart from the usual wear and tear items, only replaced the interior blower, interior fan resistor and boot struts, the MK3 is an amazing milage eater

There is an option of getting a Steel Spare wheel and a tyre fitted that has a matching near enough to the Circumference / diameter of the Tyres on the car. Just as a get you home or to tyre centre Emergency Spare. And a Jack and Tyre lever.

interesting so far I’ve only picked up 3 cans of jenolite rust converter I’m unsure after that on what to use I was thinking Lanoguard because of its ease of use and coverage but now you got me thinking about wether I should try hydrate 80. Would it be a direct replacement for the rust converter or would it go on top of the rust converter as a final coat there are so many products out there it’s pretty confusing. Or could I go dynax on top of my rust converter. Any help is appreciated guys the one thing set in stone is the the first coat will be jenolite as I already have it and might aswell use it as my base coat rust converter

Hi, I’ve recently bought an Elroq 85 edition. Great so far, I knew when purchased that there is no spare wheel. While it is the case that the supplied puncture Kit may be sufficient for certain situations it won’t be for all. My car has different tyres sizes back and front and has the 21 inch wheel. Other than getting a spare of each size is there a space saver option? Thanks Andrew

Many years ago I had a rusty drain shovel/spade that I coated the handle with Hydrate 80. Amazing transformation, it was smooth like paint once cured, and it's been like it ever since, and it has lived outside in the weather, still no sign of rust. Having said that, I use fertan for vehicles as it can get into places more easily than Hydrate 80. I haven't tried the spray gun yet for Dynax, but I've bought a LVLP gun ready. I bought a kit of various nozzles from Amazon for the spray cans, so I coud get a fan nozzle. IMO it's much more use than the round one supplied. The nozzles are handy as they will fit male as well as female cans, just by swapping the inserts over. For the S50 cavity lances, you need to dunk the ends in white spirit immediately. after using to make sure they don't get gunged up. and let a few drops run down the pipe.

Will get some when it is clean.

Ok. If it's not an original part, we don't have to deal with it. Thank you!

While I do have the diesel 200 hp 3 years already, I would suggest the petrol version for a used car. We don't know how long the fuel prices will be that high, but still the diesel efficiency is "eaten" by the cheaper petrol price. TSI is very efficient. The diesel is much more complicated and there are so many expensive things which might broke - DPF, AdBlue, etc, while I've never heard someone complaining from a GPF on petrol VW. There is also less stress on the DSG gearbox DQ381 on the petrol version, due to the less torque it has. However, I love that torque feeling on the diesel version more than on the petrol :D

Once vag wheels get to a certain age they all leak from the bead seals. At about £200 to powder coat a set puts an end to the constant air top ups for me. Have had 3 cars done myself. Also any kerb damage and general delamination gets fixed. Plus I go for something darker and they look cleaner for longer eve with brake dust over them.

Polestar went with no rear window for a year or 2 in one of theur models but the window is vack now. Proved unpopular it seems.

Another vote for the Bilt-Hamber products. I bought hydrate-80 expecting to be irritated at the performance of something that sounded too good to be true. I was wrong, and it genuinely blew me away. I've done parts of my partners Octavia and my Golf and the finish that a very thin coat of the hydrate-80 leaves is like nothing I've ever seen before. The transformation of rusted surfaces to a hard black surface happens very quickly subject to the outside heat, and can then be coated with something else to provide additional protection. I've used some direct to rust paint for small sections of bent sill, after straightening them out and then topped that up too. Had it not been a seam I think I'd have just gone with the hydrate-80 and then Dynax-UB. Dynax-UB is another fantastic product which provides long lasting protection for the surfaces that are protected with it, and having had the dealer lanoguard my car before I received it, the Dynax lasts significantly longer in my experience. Yes the application of the lanoguard or similar lanolin based products is easy with the spray head, but you can apply dynax-ub with a trigger too once suitably thinned.

I watched a few of the reviews now and they all seem to be saying what the earlier prototype reviews said. Admittedly, the cars they have driven all seem to be very late-model prototypes still. Ride and handling are what you would expect, performance, too, is more than adequate. The interior is very bold if a little cramped looking. The rear-view mirror (it's a monitor) seems to be in a bad place and a couple of reviewers have commented on it. It's important because there is no rear window. I also note that the cars reviewed are in quite a 'safe' colour, which is a shame as I think the car suits a bold shade. I'll leave it to others to post yootoob links, or I might get around to it myself once I've had some sleep

If it's the below alloy rim, then the same rim is available in the Skoda accessory catalogue with OEM part number 3V0071498H HA7 8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 alloy rim PEGASUS (Superb MK3) 3V0601025L HA7 anthracite metallic (grey) The benefit of the accessory catalogue is the much lower price compared to the standard parts catalogue. The xxx071xxx format means it's from the accessory catalogue, whereas the xxx601xxx format means it's from the standard parts catalogue. Not all factory alloy rims are in the accessory catalogue. The 235/45R18 8Jx18 ET44 and 235/40R19 8Jx19 ET44 wheels are prone to kerbing damage, because the sidewalls on these 235 tyre sizes don't bulge out much from these rim specifications.

That explains the website then. And if they've treated you well that's good, I'm glad. However it's not the same experience myself or a work colleague have had with them over the past 20 odd years.

Skoda Superb elegant 2018 Hi my rear washer stopped working a while ago and now the demister doesn't work. I have checked all the fuses under the bonnet and all OK i have shoved a needle down the washer head and no blockage. Is there any other fuses anywhere? Or any advice on fixing the problem