All Activity

4 days ago left home fully charged, and did 160 miles and had 5 miles range left. £3.50 Temp about 10 degrees C and some rain. Windy . Today fully charged after paying £26. 0-3 degrees max. Used 65% of battery in 68 miles. There was a diversion of an extra 10 miles because of a crash. Just put in a charge to 52% to get home. Showing 100 miles range. Still 3 degrees C. I will see how much left to 75 miles. Some 70 mph, then the rest will be an average of under 50 mph. Cold weather and all season tyres.

Single wire, Job from about 20-30 min Controller 03 Byte 16 Bit 02 For Hardware Button

I think 28 must be a typo - unless you have a DeLorean 😁

I doubt you'll find wiring sitting ready for use, so I'd suggest getting that done if you plan to go ahead with this. In case you don't know, KL15 means an ignition switched supply, KL31 is earth, and KL58d is the backlighting supply for various switches, often a grey/blue wire. Getting the wire through to the ABS module may present the biggest challenge if it isn't already present.

Yet another example of an "Italian Tune" being the solution.

That's the problem, with the clutches disengaged there's no engine braking - so the only way to decelerate is by using the brakes, which means you use the brakes more as you're using them from a higher speed. Since I measured no improvement in mpg in Eco all Eco did was increase brake usage, and hence wear and cost. So for me Eco was increasing my running costs, with no reduction in CO2 emissions and an increase in PM2.5 emissions from greater brake usage. Kinda makes Eco not really Eco?

I'd think that the Ceramic grease will be okay, I only use that on the callipers, for the hub<>disc I use a spot of aluminium grease and add extra on the outer side - round about the disc<>hub joining point at-and the projecting part of the hub to made removing the alloy wheels easier next time. It's normally safe enough to give the "barrel" of the old discs a few heavy whacks to release them from their "rust bond" to the hubs. I'd say that I normally intend to remove the discs from new cars and apply a very slight coat of probably aluminium grease to the hub face then refit the discs, if you plan in keeping a car for a few years and also doing your own service/repairs, you'll appreciate having made the effort to do this further down the line as the discs will be free to remove after taking the retaining screws out.

I have already been through that several times - byte 17/18 (But without the reset switch fitted). Are there any other modules needing programming e.g Instruments, Electronics or Gateway? Do you know what's mean't by Module 4C? As soon as TPMS is enabled in Instruments or selected with a Gateway option, Module 4C missing error is given. I suspect that's for the internal TPMS system?

You are using VW 504 and not VW 508 (0w-20)? Mine 2026 Karoq 1.5 TSI, DXDB, petrol only recommends VW 508 so I was thinking not to change it. My other car, Skoda Fabia 1.0 TSI, CHZC, petrol, 2018, came initially with VW 504 so I just keep changing to that oil.

everything is better than factory 30000kms change. my oil is always light brown, no matter what. nothing to clog filter.

Thank you. Very helpful

Didn't solve it yet!

You have to Code the ABS Controller

O.K Thanks Cairus et Al. I think my next step is to wire in the TPMS reset button. I used to see them sold aftermarket with harness, but now I've probably got to manually wire. I hope I can get to all the connection points without having to remove the entire centre console? Sometimes it's nice to find they left an empty connector close by, but probably not the case here. Perhaps after the reset button is operated first time, ABS TPMS software will burst into life - or nothing will change. She doesn't drive her Yeti off road and I'm curious about ESC. She said (To her) there was no feeling of a totally flat front tyre through the steering. Would ESC contribute compensation for a totally flat tyre? I should have driven the car myself to see how it felt.

Dont suppose you have a part number. Try LLL parts with VIN and see whatr comes up then google and there might be a cross ref. Watch autodoc as I believe they are LHD/RHD specific Alasdair

right, I do the same when 20 liter dunks are on big sale! Is it any benefit not to change the oil filter all the time? I always those two are like twins. You change them both if one changes

me too . i buyed 20 litres of Shell helix ultra 0w30 AV-L for good price and changing oil with filter on 9000 kms - 12 months, and between that i change only oil in half that period.

It may appear in the centre display only when needed. Found this online My sons mk1 is more basic and has an oil warning light in dash with a really annoying very loud chime every time a warning appears including low on fuel. Everytime it gets low on fuel you think something major has happend. Alasdair

Remote Working day today, so I get to sooth my mind with little glances out of the window at the new Whip....😍

than all bolts on subframe are involved.. not just one.

Il faut la faire glisser depuis le bord et pousser doucement. J'ai le même dispositif et le caoutchouc est rentré sans soucis.

Galvanic action (galvanisation is the protecting of components with zinc) occurs when two chemically dissimilar metals touch, while exposed to the electrolytes in water, sweat, or anything else. That’s why you often see rusty gym equipment. In fact, the exact same type of metal or alloy can be electrochemically dissimilar, depending on conditions, their makeup, etc, meaning that a steel subframe bolt can and will chemically interact with a steel subframe.

It should re-engage the clutches the second you apply any meaningful braking. It’s also a bit of a placebo effect - these engines don’t have any CoD/ACT, and all eco mode really does for the engine is reduce the effect your throttle input has. As in, it’s nothing on the engine side of things - it’s all in the throttle pedal/ECU. In all these cars, normal mode means 30% throttle input is 30% throttle. In “sport” mode, 30% input is 40% throttle, and then in eco, 30% input is 20% throttle. I often find cars respond unbearably slowly in eco modes, and the same effect can be had with driving more carefully in any other mode.

Thank you very very much!!! This is going to help me a lot, thanks again!

What engine? I used Bosch 0250403002 in my BKD, no complaints