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Absolutely, an ideal idea for Christmas - I think that that was when I first bought my VCDS back in Christmas 2000 or 2001!

Hi, This one is pretty similar to what I used. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135709654756?_skw=skoda+autodimming+mirror&itmmeta=01M7DMZXN61REXT0AH6R7YJYKB&hash=item1f98ecfee4:g:znYAAeSwKc9oAQnn&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde%2F%2BScYTeFLpcKeZnqF5dZO0ylDeF3GRHZdHMdn8SqTeEO8hd%2BpRQ2%2FH1t72tPfLx%2Fc0ducyTE70z2w2PmhTBauWmldtyuJIWog9BCRgw9SFeWoqJaW0y8TqVIj178qJZFCbKUKhtTCl7%2BCytucDeiL7lAoycn95mPDUQ04E8yrtRvxpId4AfLjUhtYEvLse7mNfqd7qUgLlZSCmfAo3UYcjMDewVgh9qtxG4rszDdixwwk5HfwmyOITsqKO895nr4U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Lb_7S7aA It does have the wiring connection included. The Fabia mirror / windscreen is a different design from the Superb. The FII uses a small foot / mount which is also integral to the windscreen whereas the SII and other cars use a larger bracket - 3AA845543B. The larger bracket fits around the small FII one and I hid it with the screen adhesive. You will get it from a dealer.

Had to replace our radio head unit but it didn't come with the 4 digit pin code. Cost $50 Aus but got it done through this UK site https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ Just need the Serial code from the side of the head unit. Was surprised it worked but all good and working fine. Andy

3) Yes, Change dataset from unit A5

That should be good news, I did bump into "Haynes manuals back" in something online. I've made my own way across to a supplier of genuine "snap shots" of VW Group resources grabbed from erWin - they work well although maybe a bit hard to "digest/navigate" at first. Which is hopefully where the reinvested Haynes manuals prove their worth. Edit:- it was easymanuals,co.uk that I have used in the past, a good experience, still using the 2 that I bought, for a 2011 Audi S4 6MT and a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT.

Ok, it was indeed a false alarm and due to scanning while the car was running. Thank you Binx1310.

As no one else has replied... Firstly, give the sensors a good clean. Dirt on the sensor can send them haywire. VCDS can identify sensor faults - maybe Christmas can justify the purchase. VCDS can also "uninstall" the rear parking sensors module from the installation list. The module itself (on my hatchback) is in the boot mounted on the LHS behind the side covering. I expect the estate/combi is the same as the floor pan is identical on both models. Without VCDS I would unplug the module from the loom.

Hi! I have a Skoda Rapid 2017 diesel and sometime when I run the AC the fans continue spinning for a minute or two after I turn off the engine. Why is that? Is there anything to worry about? I’ve recorded a video of the fans running so you can see what I mean. Thanks! Danijel_Meglen_32581-360p30.mov

Have a look in the neighbourhood of the throttle body, it may be dripping down the back of the engine from there. The breather system on the CBZ engines is rather complex and involves several components including a little rubber diaphragm valve in the intake manifold which seems to me to be very likely to clog and stop working as designed. This then means the engine breathing won't work well at idle, causing oil to get where it shouldn't. See my Rescue Roomster thread, page 2. A simple test of this is with a fully warmed up engine, loosen the oil filler cap to the point it can be lifted away, but don't lift it. See if it tends to be pushed upward, pulled downward or just vibrated a bit in place. It shouldn't be the first of these if the engine breathing is working well.

Have a look at this page in my "Rescue Roomster" thread. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531352-petes-rescue-roomster/page/5/ Pretty sure someone chimed in on this subject saying ECU relearn was unnecessary. You'll also see that it's possible to 'tweak' the chain timing with minimal disassembly, which included some discussion of cam sprocket fastening. It's my current opinion that this is a good substitute for chain replacement, and that the quoted maximum extension of the tensioner is probably due to the associated timing correlation drift and risk of valve/piston approach, which is 'reset' by what I did. Time will tell.🙂

Having used Haynes workshop manuals for many years (and many cars) I was dismayed to find they had discontinued printed manuals when we got our Fabia 3 1.2tsi - same story with Octavia 3 1.6 TDi. Lots of stuff available on the web of course but less convenient and can be confusing! Idly browsing recently - SURPRISE !! - they've started doing them again. And they are now printed on better paper with better pictures. So in case this has gone unnoticed by other dinosaur home mechanics I thought I'd post it here.

Having used Haynes workshop manuals for many years (and many cars) I was dismayed to find they had discontinued printed manuals when we got our Fabia 3 1.2tsi - same story with Octavia 3 1.6 TDi. Lots of stuff available on the web of course but less convenient and can be confusing! Idly browsing recently - SURPRISE !! - they've started doing them again. And they are now printed on better paper with better pictures. So in case this has gone unnoticed by other dinosaur home mechanics I thought I'd post it here.

Hi, I have the same TDI200 4x4 MY 22. 1) Not paid attention to this yet. I'll take a look 2) No 3) I don't think so. Maybe @Cairus knows...

I may throw some solid scabby patches on to get an MOT and then I can try and steal some ramp time to do the sills properly. thinky face emoji.

Rear springs for the Superb MK2 marked (1 White, 3 Orange, 1 Brown) has OEM part number 1K0511115DE and build code 0YE. 3C0511115AF is two up in the hierarchy compared to 1K0511115DE. Sach 994 337 rear springs (matches 1K0511115DE) Wire diameter 12.25mm Length 362mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/1k0511115de?supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=32&supplier%5B%5D=246 Sachs 994 364 rear springs (sold to replace 3C0511115AE, 3C0511115AF) Wire diameter 12.75mm Length 357mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3c0511115af?supplier%5B%5D=253&supplier%5B%5D=32&supplier%5B%5D=246 Kilen 65059 rear springs (matches 3C0511115AF) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391130827593

Right, don't get excited, there's no REAL progress, the sills are still a hellscape, we're just regrouping to figure out a new attack plan for that. But... new bouncy guys went on after some fine pitch nuts got delivered this week. They're MUCH less horrible than what they replaced and the back returns nicely when you shove it down. I touched up the DON'T sign on the beam with a paint pen so it's a bit more readable. I HAVE new bearings for the rear hubs, but since it's the pit of winter now and this thing isn't going to get legal till next summer at the earliest I decline to fit them just to sit and rot, till then this kind of race surface is FINNNNEEEEE you shut up. It's back on its four feet, it'll need a bit of brake bleeding but at least it will be yard drivable again whilst sill plans get formed. What a piece of trash.

I'm going to replace my timing chain in my Toledo 1.2 TSI with CBZB engine. The official Seat procedure from ERWIN says: - The engine control unit must always be adapted after the timing chain has been renewed or after the previously removed timing chain has been reinstalled. - Depending on whether a new or a previously removed timing chain is being installed, different procedures for adapting the engine control unit apply. - If the learnt values are not adapted, consequential damage may result. - Not all engine control units support the procedure described below. If the engine control unit does not support the function below, the described procedure is not applicable. Using VAS-PC: Press following buttons on display one after the other: 1 Guided Fault Finding 2 Select vehicle 3 GoTo 4 Function/component selection 5 Select engine version 6 Timing chain removed/installed I have experienced before (when wanting to trigger the function for re-calibrating end stops on the HVAC flaps), that even the very comprehensive system that is owned by a competent mechanic who I know, cannot access some functions, and therefore may not be able to access this one. How critical is it that it be done? I believe that the ECU will learn over time any differences introduced in replacing the chain, but I also understand that any averaging that it does, will be based on a much longer history already in the memory - hence their instruction that it must be adapted. So I think if not adapted, it will just take some mileage to re-adapt itself, but the question is, is there any harm in this?

Click on 'Start New Topic' To update your email address, click on your profile then it's either 'account settings' or 'edit profile'.

5GE 810 773 B is the part number wirer refers to in his link.

Seems like it is my turn to have this issue. It has stuck closed a few times before, but today I could not get it open... So i used some force, and pryed it open. The actuator rod actually came out, but pressing it in to test it, it stuck again in the closed positition. From what I can figure out, the correct part is 5GE 810 773 B. Is this correct?

It is a little surprising, but just the way things are done in recent decades. The interference fit of the crank sprocket is sufficiently tight that removing the old sprocket may be considerably more difficult than fitting the new one. The tightening of the cam sprocket screw needs to be carefully done so that all the force of the tightening is against the counterholding of the pulley. Having the locking tools in place will not be a problem here, but the cam one particularly is an alignment guide, not a force resisting component. I would imagine that at 120k there would be minimal wear on the crank sprocket, so it could be left original if you struggle. I believe the majority of the wear in the system that is generally thought to be chain elongation is actually just wear of the plastic chain guides, which effectively shortens the path that the chain follows. So make sure those are replaced.

Finding the source can be tricky as you have found out. Oil has a habit of defying the laws of gravity etc. Best option is to clean it up and see if you can trace where its coming from. If its a small area then a can of brake cleaner will do. If its over a bigger area I use Gunk and then power wash. Is it definitly oil and not brake/clutch fluid? Alasdair

To post a topic/question/thread on the site.....this one is simple asked on someone else's thread. I also need to change my address.....as suggested.

About 120,000. The reason I want to replace it (and thoroughly) is that it has been making the "normal" timing chain noise for years, but recently I think it has got worse - in particular, it isn't just noisy for 3 or 4 seconds after starting the engine, but seems to stay noisy until the first time I get the revs up. I'm hoping to not replace the car any time soon, so I believe I just have to do this before it's too late.

Thank you. It's interesting to me that they're free floating. I'm not a mechanical engineer, so I don't know enough to have a strong opinion, but I'm surprised that such a critical thing is done in this way - especially as I would think there is a lot of tension in the chain as it pulls the camshaft around against the force of the valve springs. I note from the procedure that when it comes to doing the second stage of the camshaft sprocket tightening (the further 90 degrees after the initial 50Nm), it doesn't instruct to leave in the crankshaft locking bolt and the camshaft clamp. So the camshaft sprocket bolt is to be tightened up purely against the sprocket counterhold tool, and the camshaft clamp T10414 is not in any way intended to hold the camshaft against this tightening - is that correct? It doesn't even say to check the timing again after doing the second stage tightening - so I assume there is no way that the sprocket can slip round a bit during that 90 degree tightening? Again, I want to not mess this up.