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Yes, the both dives prices is almost equivalent, but most older the OEM and used. Only used OEM price is equivalnet with the new aftermarket infoatinment. The warranty is 6 month and zero product support (but it’s only available for a fee). So far, I've been looking at Dynavin.

Yes demolished old 8 x 6 shed and thought about hiring a skip, but no 3 trips to the local tip and its all gone Good old Roomster.

For sale is my 17 plate corrida red Skoda Superb Sportline DSG 190 TDI hatchback with 84k on the clock, full Skoda main dealer service history, MOT until May 2027 and costs only £35 a year to tax! Initially purchased from @SwampDonkeyGJ on here via these Briskoda classifieds in 2021. It has the usual high spec including KESSY, adaptive cruise, electric tailgate, xenon headlights, heated front seats etc along with the Columbus infotainment system with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. Along with main dealer yearly services at 14k, 24k, 33k, 43k, 50k, 59k, 66k, 74k and 81k, the cam belt and water pump were changed at 60k along with DSG oil/filter changes at 40k and 80k. Original 19” Vega alloys with no kerbing along with new Michelin PS4 tyres and a proper spare wheel. Recent new brake discs and pads and an air con regas last year. All documents, handbook, V5, previous MOT’s, receipts in the original Skoda folder along with two keys. HPI clear so no accidents or finance outstanding. Genuinely the best car I've ever owned. I only meant to keep it for 3 years but after 5+ years the cost to change gap is getting bigger and bigger hence advertising here. Feel free to drop me a PM if you need the number plate for checks, ask any questions or want my phone number for a chat. I'm located in south Birmingham near to J4 M5. £9995

Yes, that's a good idea, thank you very much!

I’ve posted the link just to let you know which parts are needed, probably if you look for the various part needed on different platforms the final prince would be cheaper

difference is only on places where handbrake cable mountings are welded.. new aftermarket parts have probably disc and drum parts welded.

its because the electricit travels via the culomb counter. if you connect directly to the battery it bypasses that. Its effectively a tally on electricity in vs electricity out of the battery and the car uses this for its "state of charge" status.

Thank you @Jack25. As much as I’d love to do that, it’s probably not worth it for a £700 15 yo clunker. 🙂 But looking at that kit, it seems there must be different mounting points for drum and disc brakes.

Thank you very much!

Not sure, but in this thread I appear to have looked up by VIN the suggested replacement part for a car with drum brakes and got the part number that's described as for disc brakes, so they may have rationalised part numbers. Can look up your suggested PN if you can tell me VIN. Typing at same time as Jack25 above, whose info is usually excellent, so have a read of his link. ^

Buy the brake disck rear axle and you will need these parts, https://darksidedevelopments.com/products/rear-brake-drum-to-disc-conversion-for-skoda-fabia-5j-mk2.html (the fitting point in the frame are the same even for the shock and spring), maybe consider to fit polyurethane bushing in the rear subframe to increase the handling. Let me know if you want to upgrade the brake setup to fit 256mm vented rear discs (and to increase front to 288 or 312mm)

Hi everyone! I’m looking to buy an Elroq 60, possibly the Sportline version. I live in a hot climate and drive around 40 km a day, plus roughly 150 km on weekends. If you have any experience with this model, or any tips or suggestions, I’d really appreciate hearing them!

I’m pretty sure this isn’t possible on facelift models.

C, D, E, Mk2.

For external charging, yes.

Plenty of scope for the first keeper to take a few lives out of the clutch in 8K - compounding that with 'riding' it occasionally in your ownership would easily finish it off. An expensive bad habit. Possibly the weight of the Karoq clutch is lighter than the Octavia's was, and even only a slight, inadvertent pressure on the Karoq's clutch pedal was causing excess wear.

I had one similar as my first car... Y reg in mushy pea green.

Have to agree with others... Theres nothing about it that 8 find particularly attractive or inspiring... It's certainly not a car id aspire to own... Unlike some older Jags.

I'd love to see one in Vanta Black. Batman would run scared of it (assuming he could see it)

Can you help me please how does it work on facelift model? (Mine is a 2021 L&K)

Most people seem to have unlinked the ACC from their traffic sign recognition and map display. Doing that means you have to set the ACC speed manually, but avoids it changing to an inaccurate one all by itself.

Good job!! :)

One for @Breezy_Pete I think 🤔

Hi to All, I’ve been a non-registered reader since August, when we bought a 2011 Fabia 1.2 TSI manual for my son as his first car. It needed a bit of work, and I’ve now created an account to ask a question. One of the rear shocks had failed (the other one was replaced by the previous owner earlier this year to pass the MOT). While replacing the it, same as in @GrumpyBob 's thread, we noticed a rust hole in the rear axle beam near the lower shock mounting point. After some digging I've found out that there are two OE part numbers - one for drum brakes and another one for disk brakes. Are the two versions physically different, meaning they won’t fit each other or just some bits and pieces that can be swapped? I assume there must be a reason for the different part numbers, but can’t spot any differences in the pictures. The reason I’m asking is that some aftermarket manufacturers list both OE part numbers as compatible with the same axle beam (this one for example), while others specifically list only the disc-brake version and don’t seem to offer a separate version for drum brakes (this Diederichs one I'd really want to buy if it fits) Appreciate any advice or information.

I’m guessing there’s an allusion to using the ground point - I’m still old school and connect to the terminals. Is it better to connect to the grounding point?