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I’m travelling at the minute but will see if I can read level with my scanner when I’m back at my car as I don’t have dcc

@AroCz - which channel r u reading the values from? I'm assuming this is on module 55 - Headlight, given urs is MY16 This is the Basic Settings values of mine (with DCC). However this with all 4 wheels hanging, for the DCC Recalibration procedure. I'll c if I can get the readings with the car sitting normally.

Hello, I’ve noticed this “swooshing” sound on my 3.6 fsi after releasing gas pedal, I know this sound is expected on NA engine but not that noticeable. Haven’t done anything to the engine in few months so everything should be tight without any leaks, should I look for some loose vacuum connection of valve cover gasket leak, maybe pcv? thank you for any advise IMG_2178.mov

So much easier to remove the driveshaft out of the hub, even on the drivers side it's a struggle. Undo the 3 X nuts bottom of ball joint, drive shaft hub bolt, split the hub at the back at it should drop down. No need to remove tie rod end

So, did this myself today. Likewise, dpf and egr are mapped out. Car has been using coolant since about 100k miles. Now on 180k and worse than ever after changing everything but the head gasket. This is the last chance before I get rid of it. Link below to the connector I used. You need under the car to get at the bottom coolant hose on the egr cooler and the top hose from the top of the engine. Once both are disconnected the connector piece is just about long enough to bring the two hoses together. You will probably make a mess even with hose clamps to try stop the flow. If you don’t have the vw hose clamp pliers for removing the hose clamps you might struggle https://vehicleclips.co.uk/products/20mm-car-heater-breather-hose-connector-straight-nylon-pa66

Yep use a 3/4 breaker bar, its too much for a 1/2 especially when you need to re torque the new one (200nm + 180°)

There's a website to check these things called willtheyfit

My guess is the cheap n80 is to blame. Buy cheap buy twice the saying goes, don't mess around buy genuine. A poor fuel cap seal can also throw codes. That 'port' on the intake is normal and shouldn't have anything attached to it.

Thank you. Am i on the right way?

Thank you, let me know what you are gonna find out for number 1 🫣😉

Are these breather holes?

Will send you PM

Yes please

I'm sorry I missed your message. Do you still need my help?

Absolutely, an ideal idea for Christmas - I think that that was when I first bought my VCDS back in Christmas 2000 or 2001!

Hi, This one is pretty similar to what I used. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135709654756?_skw=skoda+autodimming+mirror&itmmeta=01M7DMZXN61REXT0AH6R7YJYKB&hash=item1f98ecfee4:g:znYAAeSwKc9oAQnn&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0CHNgUiiE%2FjQhlDTaMiAde%2F%2BScYTeFLpcKeZnqF5dZO0ylDeF3GRHZdHMdn8SqTeEO8hd%2BpRQ2%2FH1t72tPfLx%2Fc0ducyTE70z2w2PmhTBauWmldtyuJIWog9BCRgw9SFeWoqJaW0y8TqVIj178qJZFCbKUKhtTCl7%2BCytucDeiL7lAoycn95mPDUQ04E8yrtRvxpId4AfLjUhtYEvLse7mNfqd7qUgLlZSCmfAo3UYcjMDewVgh9qtxG4rszDdixwwk5HfwmyOITsqKO895nr4U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Lb_7S7aA It does have the wiring connection included. The Fabia mirror / windscreen is a different design from the Superb. The FII uses a small foot / mount which is also integral to the windscreen whereas the SII and other cars use a larger bracket - 3AA845543B. The larger bracket fits around the small FII one and I hid it with the screen adhesive. You will get it from a dealer.

Had to replace our radio head unit but it didn't come with the 4 digit pin code. Cost $50 Aus but got it done through this UK site https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/ Just need the Serial code from the side of the head unit. Was surprised it worked but all good and working fine. Andy

3) Yes, Change dataset from unit A5

That should be good news, I did bump into "Haynes manuals back" in something online. I've made my own way across to a supplier of genuine "snap shots" of VW Group resources grabbed from erWin - they work well although maybe a bit hard to "digest/navigate" at first. Which is hopefully where the reinvested Haynes manuals prove their worth. Edit:- it was easymanuals,co.uk that I have used in the past, a good experience, still using the 2 that I bought, for a 2011 Audi S4 6MT and a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT.

Ok, it was indeed a false alarm and due to scanning while the car was running. Thank you Binx1310.

As no one else has replied... Firstly, give the sensors a good clean. Dirt on the sensor can send them haywire. VCDS can identify sensor faults - maybe Christmas can justify the purchase. VCDS can also "uninstall" the rear parking sensors module from the installation list. The module itself (on my hatchback) is in the boot mounted on the LHS behind the side covering. I expect the estate/combi is the same as the floor pan is identical on both models. Without VCDS I would unplug the module from the loom.

Hi! I have a Skoda Rapid 2017 diesel and sometime when I run the AC the fans continue spinning for a minute or two after I turn off the engine. Why is that? Is there anything to worry about? I’ve recorded a video of the fans running so you can see what I mean. Thanks! Danijel_Meglen_32581-360p30.mov

Have a look in the neighbourhood of the throttle body, it may be dripping down the back of the engine from there. The breather system on the CBZ engines is rather complex and involves several components including a little rubber diaphragm valve in the intake manifold which seems to me to be very likely to clog and stop working as designed. This then means the engine breathing won't work well at idle, causing oil to get where it shouldn't. See my Rescue Roomster thread, page 2. A simple test of this is with a fully warmed up engine, loosen the oil filler cap to the point it can be lifted away, but don't lift it. See if it tends to be pushed upward, pulled downward or just vibrated a bit in place. It shouldn't be the first of these if the engine breathing is working well.

Have a look at this page in my "Rescue Roomster" thread. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531352-petes-rescue-roomster/page/5/ Pretty sure someone chimed in on this subject saying ECU relearn was unnecessary. You'll also see that it's possible to 'tweak' the chain timing with minimal disassembly, which included some discussion of cam sprocket fastening. It's my current opinion that this is a good substitute for chain replacement, and that the quoted maximum extension of the tensioner is probably due to the associated timing correlation drift and risk of valve/piston approach, which is 'reset' by what I did. Time will tell.🙂

Having used Haynes workshop manuals for many years (and many cars) I was dismayed to find they had discontinued printed manuals when we got our Fabia 3 1.2tsi - same story with Octavia 3 1.6 TDi. Lots of stuff available on the web of course but less convenient and can be confusing! Idly browsing recently - SURPRISE !! - they've started doing them again. And they are now printed on better paper with better pictures. So in case this has gone unnoticed by other dinosaur home mechanics I thought I'd post it here.