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Due to the change in the mirrors, the LED part number has also changed: 5E6949145 5E6949146 This should clarify which mirrors are being installed.

I recommend upgrading to a navigation unit, HW4. You can Patch IT own With the HW2 Bolero unit you have, you can activate Smart Link, but it runs somewhat sluggishly. And you have To Open the Unit for the Patch I have an HW4 Bolero unit at home, fully unlocked and working perfectly. It just needs to be coded to the vehicle. Where are you from?

Wrong Information But you need the correct people and Money

Mib3?

no I think that's my mistake...there IS another short pipe from the 'T' which leads back to the left-hand side of the manifold, god knows what I pulled out of the right-hand nipple, can't recall where it led to. Car seems to work ok though. Isn't there a pipe coming from that area which relates to the brake booster? Apologies I've had my face in the engine bay all week doing the deletes/catchcan and all these pipes start to look the same. Don't want to dish out incorrect information

So jacking up car again tomorrow and having a good look with a new torch I believe mine has two radiators, what’s the purpose of this? Thankfully from what I could see previously, the end tank is leaking on the main radiator (closest to engine), then there’s another radiator, then condenser

@VladicaO remove the undertray and you might see some flaps, if you chose the factory swing-out tow bar it automatically upgrades the cooling on the car. I remember seeing some flaps. I have exactly the same 2025 car as yours. But i don't have any resonance, even with roof bars and a roofbox.

As cars age there is a shift in cost from mainly depreciation to mainly replacement parts and associated labour costs. Luckily the latter is the lower unless you need a major lump like an engine or auto gearbox. So my philosophy in a case like yours is to put in two reconditioned injectors if you have some evidence that that is the most likely cause of the problem. However, on CR engines you may find you will need to replace the other two injectors after a few thousand miles. Probably cheaper than buying a a higher value car that depreciates or has an unknown set of problems waiting to happen.

done successfully

As the title says, travelling from Calais to Prague and back in October. Can anyone offer advice or tips on routes or stops along the way? Driving my 66-reg Superb. It made the trip to Porto and back a year ago without a hitch, so I don't expect any problems. New battery, good tyres, only 33K miles. Thanks.

I have virtual pedal on my Karoq - if can take a while to discover the exact movements needed. Firstly you must have the key on you, stand close to the bumper wave your foot underneath and step quickly back. You must step far enough back and if has to a smooth continuous movement with the foot wave under the bumper. It’s a knack, I did succeed a few times. It’s most useful when carrying things with both hands - which is precisely the time it’s hardest to do - standing on one leg stepping back quickly without over balancing dur to the extra weight of what’s being carried.

For the Superb MK2 2.0TDI 170HP FWD with standard ride height, Kilen list 1K0511115DF rear springs. Perhaps try the equivalent increased ride height rear springs, ie. 1K0511115CR. 1K0511115CR is about 20mm longer than 1K0511115DF...as you might expect from an increased ride height spring. To find out what rear springs the car left the factory with, you can use the website "skoda parts com" and put the car in the online garage using its VIN number. Then when the rear springs are searched for, only the correct ones are shown. Sachs 994336 is sold to replace 1K0511115CR (other choices are available) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396315502720

Lovely light just before sunset this evening And a clear sky now

Just noticed it is face-lift model so more likely to have CR engine which is still a reliable engine.

ok guys thought id let you know the fault came back again , it lasted about 2 weeks been messing since then with setting on actuator etc etc had every vac hose off again blah blah blah and the eventually vac tested my new oem n75 (valve which id peviously ruled out as it was 80 quid and not 12 quid on ebay ) and boom it was only letting 15 inches of mercury through at idle when it should be at least 20/22 or preferably more .it must have been just coping until certain conditions were met which i found to be more often than not low rpm in gear just letting the torque pull the car without any throttle input normally when crawling in traffic etc ,the boost should be max at this point but without the correct amount of vacuum it was reading the discrepancy between expected and actual boost on the actuator . i then bought another oem n75 and the car woke up ,boost bact at approx 1200rpm and not 2500 ish where it was when not in limp mode . anyway it was a big learing process(id never done a turbo actuator and set it up before but now can do with my eyes shut lol ) and the car now fixed at last .. i really hope somebody can get something out of the post if the same happens to them and they wont have to go down the same n75 rabbit hole as me,i wouldnt mind but i never bought a cheap one .just goes to show dont trust any parts without testing .. dave .. ps the n75 that was faulty was a meat and doria product from euro car parts which is billed as being equivalent oem .. it now has a pierburg n75 which is oem........

Still ongoing issues so thought I'd put an update in. Took it to a garage to get a professional opinion. They swapped the sensor and then rewired the plug. All was good for a couple of days and then the light came back on and the air temp was reading 140 celsius this time, rather than -40/60 celsius previous. Took it back again and they swapped the sensor out again and took another look at the plug and then once again it was ok for another couple of days before the light came back on. Then the ECU light came on for fuel pressure, turns out the fuel rail came loose and pulled out the injectors apparently so I was peeing fuel all over the road. Managed to get it recovered and taken to the garage and they sorted out the fuel rail and once again replaced the sensor, this time with an original apparently and they were very confident that this time that it was all sorted. Now, once again the light has come back on. I've got to think at this point that the sensors themselves are not the problem but a symptom, something is killing them. I'm going to take it back to the same garage for this final time to see if they can find something other than just swapping out the sensor. My only thought would be that it's electrical and something is blowing the electronics in the sensors. Looking around some people are mentioning it could be a grounding issue or the battery may need to be changed, or disconnected from the car for 24 hours to reset the ECU. I'm kind of at a loss at this point and praying the garage can figure it out. Maybe the code is a red herring.

Today I bought a 2016 1.4TDi DSG Spaceback SE. With 67,000 miles, MOT till Jan 27. Private seller. Previous owner for the last 5 years was an elderly lady. We agreed on a price of £3700 for it. One downside is that has 4 x assorted cheapo 215/45 R16 tyres on it. With the bigger downside being that they all have plenty of tread left. 🙄 It has parking damage to the rear bumper and front bumper. It's the sort of thing where I'll probably leave it as it is, as it's not going to rust and it doesn't look too tragically bad. The driver's side sun visor holder, the grey plastic swivel mount thing, next to the A pillar in the roof is cracked, and the sun visor fell off when I moved it to the side window position. It looks like it's an easy enough item to replace with a trim tool and a small flat bladed screwdriver. I have a feeling I might have to buy a whole sun visor assembly, instead of just the small plastic bit that clips into the roof? The sun visor works OK if you just fold it down for windscreen shading. The car drives fine. Feels and sounds nice and tight and unworn. As it should be on 67k miles. The driver's seat is pants. You can tell by looking at it that it's not shaped like a human body is shaped. And it's uncomfortable for any journey lasting longer than 30 minutes. I'm on the look-out for a pair of used SE Sport front seats. Or maybe the upper spec seats from a Toledo. I'm mildly disappointed with the MPG from my first 60 miles of ownership. It seems to be about on a par with my 2016 Superb Greenline Estate. Which is probably more down to how amazing the Superb Greenline is, than any failings in the Spaceback 1.4 TDi. I intend getting my local VAG specialist to do a cambelt and water pump change, sooner rather than later. And from there will do my own oil changes every 8,000 miles.

I purchased my Karoq 1.5 DSG SE L at the end of July 2026. The car was pre registered on 31 March 2026 and I believe it was built in January 2026. Skoda Customer Services tell me it has what they call virtual pedal electric tailgate operation but I'm not at all sure. Easy Open is selected in the settings but I cannot get the tailgate to open using my foot. I have looked underneath the rear bumper for some sort of sensor but can't see anything. I can't get at a January 2026 brochure to check but I can see the virtual pedal is shown in the latest brochure. It could be that Customer Services are quoting from this brochure rather than the January 2026 one. I don't know if the virtual pedal was specd in the early 2026 brochure, I'm not doing something right or it simply doesn't work. Can anyone throw any light on this and if I'm not doing something right, where am I going wrong? Thanks.

I’ve got an L&K and think there’s nothing wrong with adding cosmetic touches. I’ve removed the badges on the front wings and the Superb and 4x4 on the boot. Also have a Reiger rear diffuser in the pipeline - looks tasteful and subtle 👍🏼

I’ve bought a set of B4s for the rear, but I haven’t got around to fitting them - I’ve had them for more than six months 🙄 I really must fit them. It’s not a VRS, just a ‘normal’ Octavia with a beam axle, but I find the ride a bit harsh.

I did not touch air vent, only removed speakers mesh. It simply unclips, so slide thin trim tool in the gap and pull. If I remember correctly, to remove air vent you'd need to remove this mesh first, anyway.

That was no passengers - only a full boot and roofbox. This is the empty height.

I can't wait .

Good choice as you can't beat an old school PD engine as with annual oil changes they run forever, I got rid of my PD140 at 200k and it was still running strong.

No issues with infotainment so far with CarPlay disconnected.