Leaderboard

As my post has morphed into a Tuk Tuk discussion ( how? why? ) I'll bring it back to my dilemma of what to replace my 2013 Elegance with. Answer:- a low mileage 2017 Yeti auto. Delivery in a couple of weeks.....patience. I just couldn't find a new plug-in hybrid that ticked all my boxes so will have two or three years for manufacturers to produce what I want. Thanks for all your replies, even the Tuk Tuk ones - don't you JUST love Briskoda?

Given you've been scammed (or to put it another way, let down by your chosed supplier) I'll do you a deal. If you join the site as a Freedom member (cost is £10 for the year) send me the unit and I'll sort this for the cost of postage. Freedom is detailed here. Note, Freedom lite is not included in the deal... So, if you think this is something you're interested in, then shoot me a personal message.

Washed and waxed today my 2016 TDI190 model , boosted also to 225hp/470Nm with Quantum.

Interesting twist to this tale just now. I bought a (recent) secondhand slave cylinder of the part number superseding the one I bought at the time of the clutch replacement, with a view to maybe modding it as a workaround solution to the clutch engagement/disengagement point being so low on the pedal. So the one currently connected to hydraulics (dustier one on the right) is a genuine 6QE721261; the one that turned up yesterday for me to have a play with possibly extending is 5Q0721261. Looking at the latter after its arrival yesterday, I had a nagging suspicion that the plunger/actuator seemed a shade longer at max extension than what I saw in the car last weekend, so here's them side by side: There's a good 5 or 6mm difference there, which is ballpark what I was thinking of trying as a modification. So maybe I just need to fit this other slave cylinder. Stand by for the next installment over the weekend...😀

I don't want or even like the DSG, my daughter has it in her Polo GTi and the Father in Law has the equivalent in a Captur. I wanted the 2.0TSi petrol 190PS as 1st choice, then the 190 2.0 TDi as 2nd choice but both only available with DSG I think so ended up with 3rd choice the 150PS 2.0 TDi Manual which unfortunately for Skoda was cheaper so they down sold me.......😒 But it's all immaterial really cos we'll all be in an EV very very soon............

I would any day of the week!!!!! The epiphany for me was taking a risk on a 3 year old Octavia MK1 with 188000 miles for a littme more than nothing but cheap enough that if I had to throw it away after a year I would not be crying into my beer. It turned out to be the best investment that I have ever made, I had 13 trouble free years and put another 137k miles on it and even then would not have needed to scrap it had I invested in VCDS, it was so reliable that I never had to. It never left me stranded and the repairs I did were only ever £10 or £20, I never needed to replace any suspension bushes, I bought rear wishbone bushes with the intention of fitting them believing them to be a known fault but never needed to, I did replace the springs & shocks from a crashed Police car because they were heavier duty and I used the estate as a van and towed a lot. My depreciation costs over any 3 year period would have been £850, if I included servicing, repairs tyres & friction materials still less than £1000. There is also the cashflow side of it, the depreciation is only a cost and a financial hit when the vehicle is sold or in my case scrapped, my actual ougoings were £150 per annum or £12.50 (actually a lot less because I always used part worn tyres) whereas on a lease the £388 would have to be paid every month. Is there not also an initial payment that is lost? Editted, good point re drivers seat, I removed the foam from the squab of a low mileage car at the breakers yard and also at some stage replaced the steering wheel (dead cheap without the airbag).

Got it thanks. A gentle persuasion with my Adidas trainer

That's great to hear. Hopefully vast majority of ZE50's will have CCS installed. As second hand car buyer, this is excellent news. Rapid charging is like a bottle of water, vast majority of the time when you going about your business normally, it's just nice to have as backup. But when you go beyond your normal daily routine, it's invaluable (both car capability and reliable network of multi-charger hubs)

Bap33: Not, Sportline. Crome around fog lights bought from Ebay (made in Germany seller) there a lot of china made cheaper, but quality can be a question mark? JR RS: Thanks.

Thank you all for your comments and wisdom. Ive FINALLY placed my order for a leased 1.5 tsi DSG SE Technology, in Quartz Grey, after must tooing and froing, due to there being no Skoda Estates in my previous spec , which was the 2.0 TDI SEL and agents trying to sell me a different car. On paper this one ticks all the boxes and is within budget. I should know tomorrow when it will be delivered.

I thinking anyone boasting about their environmental friendliness whilst buying a heavy truck with the aerodynamics of a brick is only convincing themselves, regardless of fuel type.

Having just taken ownership of a 2011 Superb Elegance, I found the maps on the Columbus Satnav were hopelessly out of date. I asked the dealer about an update, and he suggested that I check out available updates on the web, as the Skoda ones were really expensive. I found a company (SatNavUpgrade.com) that seemed genuine and ordered the DVDs, one for a firmware update and one for the maps update at a total price of £24.99. It now appears I have been stung as the maps update DVD would not load, and despite emailing the supplier listing the problems I've had, I have received no reply. A quick check on Trust Pilot shows that this company are scammers and have ripped off many, many people. To make matters worse this "update" has removed all existing old maps too. All I get when trying to load the DVD is a message "Please insert a Navigation CD/DVD". I have checked for an update DVD from the Skoda dealer in Bath, and I was told it would cost £180 including VAT! Before I splash out on this DVD, does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get a genuine map update which works, or failing that restore the old maps? I am a pensioner and it would really hit me hard having to pay for the genuine Skoda update.

When I was looking for a cycle carrier for my BMW 2-Series Gran Tourer, I was advised to avoid those carriers which strap onto the rear tailgate. Most tailgates now apparently have plastic parts (eg. the spoiler at the top) which are made of plastic and which can break under the pressure from the very tight straps of the carrier with a bike strapped onto it. I was told that even if there are no plastic parts in the tailgate, when you pull the straps of a tailgate-mounted cycle carrier taught, you can end up bending the steel edges of the tailgate where the strap clips are attached.

Thanks @ahenners followed your procedure looks bang on alot better 😎👍

Ouch! Thanks for the heads up on that company.

...and once you done that, perversely you need to pull it back to change back to 'normal'!

I made my own solution with a 3D printer and a 5 coil wireless charger, because of that also the big size phones can fit in the "hole" plus I can still see the screen. I can share the STL file, if somebody need it, and some pictures of it. Of course I am also big fan of original solutions, but in this case the hole was too small, and I use always plus size mobiles...

^^ this - and some dashcam chargers also do it.

Right, I've discovered that they come on if you put the switch to the side light position. It's amazing what goes through your mind when you're parking your car!!!!

I was expecting the price difference to be negligible, I did a similar calculation three years ago and based on what i could see as used prices at 3 years old then a lease was about break even to buying and selling on but took the worries away. 14k for three years motoring does look a lot but there are a lot of people buy new and change regularly. The thinking around new was: I drive (used to) high mileages of approx 24k a year so keeping for 4-5 years effectively means an almost worthless car at the end - who wants a four year old car with 100k miles, just coming up to needing the suspension bushes renewing and the drivers seat has sagged. ( I once put 128k miles on a company car in 4 years, the excess mileage was expensive). Buying almost new - do you really know why it is on the market? Is it a lemon? Doesn't sit well with needing to get to work and high mileages 3 years ago I was a contractor so the company would not provide me with a car for travel to other sites as a contractor I was expected to get to the office or didn't get paid - moved to perm 2 years ago. I can spec the options I want (heated screen, interior colour) that are almost impossible to add after market - I spend a minimum of 2 hours in the car on a working day. I don't have any hassle if it breaks, even out of warranty, and this car was out of warranty before it was 3 years old. I don't need to take time out of work to deal with selling - important when I didn't get paid holiday. A lot of the miles in the first year and a bit were paid as mileage by my Ltd company, at 45p a mile, so no cost to me directly. I can afford it and if no-one does where are you all going to get your pre-owned cars from, there will be a shortage due to the 3 month stoppage in production we have ahd this year. Just surprised that, having found the car on autotrader, I had actually come out better than if I had bought it and changed after three years. As an aside my son works for one of the big UK leasing companies and they are seeing an increase of £1000 plus on average in the sale price of end of lease cars over what they expected so it could have been much better. It could also have been worse, the initial lease was 2 years and I looked at changing last April but the lease would have gone up by about £150 a month so I extended this one for a third year. There is a lot in the timing. Now if the one that is due for delivery shortly doesn't have any problems I may buy it at the end of lease as it looks as if I will only be an occasional visitor to the office and it may see me through to retirement, the lease on the new one, before I dropped the mileage by 8k a year, was about £30 more than this one (three years inflation and a car worth 3-4k more), reducing the mileage makes it about £50 a month less.

Generally, its best to slightly loosen the nuts prior to lifting anyway. If you know they are stuck (Not been removed for ages) Try loosening a screw threads turn each nut, move the car a metre or sos, then jack up, axles stands/chocks, lets to finish. When refitting, smear the touching faces of the wheel and hub, with a little copper grease, making sure not to let it touch the brake pads and the discs braking area.

On holiday this time but will definitely be attending September if it's on

Bum, too short notice. I'm busy this Tuesday. Will September be happening?

The alloy has corroded to the surface of the brake disc. Nothing else to undo, but may take some brutality to break the corrosion bond. Make sure the car is safely supported before kicking etc.

Incredible figures regarding leasing cost in the UK, but it clearly boils down to a much worse depreciation in your market for whatever reason. Out of interest, comparing to Sweden, starting prices are not that more expensive, a 2016 2.0 TDI Superb would have costed the equivalent of £30K so roughly 10-15% more expensive, however, such cars from 2016 and 30-60K miles today are sold for around £20-22K, almost 80% more expensive than in the UK (or 80% less depreciated) Both my last two cars I had the option of leasing them but I chose to buy them fully and when I calculated my loss upon resale it ended up being more economical than If I had leased them (in Sweden), unfortunately it's not a good option here yet for most cars. In fact, setting the price and age criteria the same as in your car, you can mostly find Fabias, not even Octavias in the second hand market. With such a bad depreciation it's clearly the smarter move for someone switching cars every 3 years, just for the lack of re-sale hassle alone. Comparing buying a 6.y.o. car vs. buying new is clearly irrelevant in this case?! Again, missing the point completely. The topic is not "where you'd best spend 14K in 3 years" but a very clear: "buying new: buy cash/loan or lease" and is comparing the costs between those two options. People buy new for lots of reasons and are aware of the extra cost this deliberate choice brings upon them (or at least they should be...)

There are a couple of alternatives offered by Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Luggage-Oxford-waterproof-Carrier/dp/B081F4MP89/ref=pd_sbs_263_3/262-0703509-0304047?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B081F4MP89&pd_rd_r=b734da38-2c8b-4c6c-ab17-1bf1ee061135&pd_rd_w=vpdGU&pd_rd_wg=fOKhD&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=M3BEJ6TJ9YAJ8F0CTRXA&psc=1&refRID=M3BEJ6TJ9YAJ8F0CTRXA https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tow-Carrier-Vault-Cargo-weather-resistant/dp/B01N9MIVLS/ref=pd_sbs_263_2/262-0703509-0304047?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N9MIVLS&pd_rd_r=13fd65e3-9649-466a-beea-963c9af9a7c2&pd_rd_w=zjMpa&pd_rd_wg=ATVU9&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=JXY0XZJH7TGSN2X2BFKC&psc=1&refRID=JXY0XZJH7TGSN2X2BFKC

many thanks for the correction! That's saved me ordering the wrong part Chris

Checked VIN with SkodaParts.com, which I have used regularly - that design of footrest is LHD only - HTH! 👍

Rear reflectors/spoiler/diffuser/exhaust tips might be all coming off for the car to be sold soon, unless someone buys the whole car lol pm me if interested

given the chrome trim on the grille and window frames, plus the side fender badge - i'd say it's not a Sportline. much like mine, non-Sportline, but with a Sportline rear diffusor retrofitted. though i could b wrong, and he really has a Sportline n has Chrome'ed it up. i like wat u've done @T-800 looks nice 🙂

Thule used to do a hard box for the Easybase/902/3 bike carrier ... I think it was called the Backup Box 900 .... I had one many years ago, I'm sure I paid about £300'ish and that was 15 years ago .... think your between a rock and a hard place ... Thule kit is excellent, buy oh boy do you pay handsomely for the privilege. Good luck with your search

I don't have a problem. Because I have no desire to drive a connected games console with a vertical tea tray sticking up from the centre of the dashboard, nor do I want to talk to my car. I have a reliable & functional means of transport that does not bring me problems like everything I own with a touch screen does.

Hahaha - I hoped nobody would quote me as I realised later I was thinking about the central locking button as my old 1.4tdi pd1 didn’t have heated seats....(Or much else) There was no orange bricks when I was a kid. Black; white, red, blue, yellow....and I think grey if bought a train set 😂 I’ve used that brick separator loads lately though, it’s dead handy.

Take care not to overcharge and boil the battery's fluid. As Murdockman suggested, a maintenance type charger is most likely the way to go. Old types often have no overload but maintenance ones can be left on semi-permanantly, off the car, of course.I hope you manage to resurrect it.

Murdockman, You may be correct in what you say but I am now cautiously optimistic. I had the battery on charge for a good 7 hours today. Put key into ignition all the usual lights came on and the car started! I will give it a further 5 hour charge tomorrow and if it goes well take the car for a run and see what happens. Thanks for you suggestions guys.

Some New stuff installed. Light control switch with new style shiny chrome shroud and auto function light. Like it a lot

Bought a new light panel the other day, definitely a worthy purchase! I also snapped this one whilst balancing the camera on the window frame which I think came up nicely And lastly I got these 2 today of 2 different Robin in the garden.

probably going to be a longish post so best to make some tea. First "competitive" event for the car since the 2 litre was put in, Always wanted to do one of these top speed events just to see how fast the car can go, event is a standing mile with speeds also taken at the 1/2 mile too. Looking at the logs from 1/4 mile runs i had a realistic idea of speed of 135mph with a hope of maybe touching 140mph. Managed to rope in my mate simon in his 700bhp Focus RS and Richie who had a monte carlo before but now has a 400bhp 335d. Since it was the first time at one of these events i know from experience just to build things up. First run i did was no meth, no hard launch and short shift to 5th and let it run out, hit a crosswind at 100mph as you can see in the video it weaves a little. Running a Vbox sport i had a live gps speed on my phone, looked at the speed and it seen 150mph. 150mph in my little diesel skoda in around 1 mile from a standing start. Couldn't help but have a giggle to myself at that one in the shut down area. Official timing had it at 147mph. Expectations already exceeded! Next run decided to go a slightly harder launch and rev it out abit more, keeping an eye on the gps speed i decided to hit the meth switch to give it a little push to maybe get to 150mph but the light didn't come on! No meth and it went through the timing beams at 149mph! No meth 149mph! All i could think was what on earth have Darkside built here. Had to work out why the meth didn't kick in, knew it had meth as even if the tank was empty the light will still show if the solenoid would still activate and a green light comes on in the car and if the tank is empty another light comes on to show its low and i had just filled it when we arrived. First thing to check was the fuses, all ok and it was 100% working the night before as i had a run in with a golf r in mexico. The system is activated via boost so when it reachs a certain boost level it kicks in. Checked the line on the manifold all good, traced it back to the switch and theres no boost line there. it had came off so fitted it back on and cabled tied it in so it couldnt come off again. Went to line up again for another run but it was lunch time so had to wait for afterwards Also as you can see parked outside the guys selling some race fuel got chatting to them and they gave me some stuff to try. Plan was to do as i did in the last run, run the car up get to 5th then when in 5th hit the meth switch, run was good and the car was hauling, hit the brake and looked over at the gps, 160mph, 160mph in a daily driven diesel hatch. Couldn't believe it and got abit excited at that. Went through the beams at 153mph Next run thought i would try and full meth run from start to finish and go for 155mph. Forgot i had the window down slightly so put it up when i was in 3rd but then hit the hardcut for a second before then going into 4th, lost some speed/time but at the 1/2 mile it was 3mph up even with that which shows how much the car was trucking along, got to 154mph on gps still not at the timing beams yet and we get limp mode, brown trouser moment for me as i thought i had broke it, thankfully ryan from darkside was on hand by email most of the day and was keeping in touch with how i was getting on. The car isn't mapped for meth its just an add on which you can turn on or off but i think full throttle for that long was abit much for it, as you can see the IAT's were over 60 degrees C. still went through the beams at 149mph and that wasn't me breaking but it coasting down in limp mode. Fault code reset i made the decision that i was going to do one more run as i need to drive this thing back to scotland over 200 miles and would rather drive it back than tow it back. Decided im not going to do a full meth run but run it till 4th then hit the meth so its on for 4th and 5th all the way through. set off and car was just freight training alone, kept it in again after the timing beams for as long as i dared before hitting the brakes look over and seen 162mph! Timing beams were 155mph! brakes really did get abit hot! @DarksideDevelopments have built me an amazing car, it's hard to describe just how all round this car is. I can drive it 250 miles fire down a runway at 160mph then drive it 250 miles home that isn't loud you can still have a full convo on the motorway and dont have to shout or raise your voice and no smoke. Thats something you'd expect from a top spec audi/bmw/merc diesel not a little diesel skoda ecohatch. And it averaged 51mpg. Through out the day there was loads of people commenting on how quick it was and that they didn't expect it to be putting in those kinds of speeds. Couple of guys also said it was the car of the day for them as with the supercars you'd expect them to be quick but not a little diesel hatchback and they were even more surprised to see it was stripped out or trailered down and i was going to drive it home. Safe to say i love this car, still my first car and its going no where ever.

Hello Sasha, did you take pictures of BCM retrofit? what part did you use? I´m thinking of switching mine to, can i buy the same partnumber but for oder brand for example audi or volkswagen? 5Q0937084CQ

The 7 little decorative lines was the "bonus" bit - the whole point of the retrofit was to get Smart Light Assist function, which was never an option for the Oz bound Superbs.

And boot lights I linked earlier from AliExpress arrived and have been fitted. 30 second job. Considerably brighter than OEM.

Who would have thought an empty lower power 2wd Karoq could get better fuel economy than a 300kg heavier, larger more powerful 4wd Kodiaq? Whilst there’s no denying that those impressive figures for a petrol engine, it’s pretty much irrelevant on a Kodiaq forum in a discussion about the 190bhp petrol and Diesel engines fitted to 4wd cars.

I sourced my headlights from eBay, secondhand, n from different sellers. So I got it cheap - cost me less than $1000 all up. However they're hard to find secondhand. Otherwise, u'd b looking between AUD$1000-1500 per headlight. The AFS controllers were $200 a pair. The D3S rings were about $40. I had a friend u has VCP and ODIS, so I didn't need to get the service centre to help.

Yes but that is also a reflection in the tank size too not just a reflection of economy. I had both of these cars cars too, the 2015 VRS TDI Octy only had a 50L tank where the 206kw Superb had 66L and where the VRS diesel could get 560 miles out of tank and the Superb would only do 450 miles. Not sure how you are getting 800 miles out of 66L and petrol motor consistently unless you have completely flat roads and are not trying to maintain normal speeds? That's 20km/L and my car didn't even do that on roads coming back downhill from the mountains? The 7 speed now may help though as the Suburb was a 6 speed back then. My 7.5 Golf R in comparison has better economy than the Suberb did with another 30hp but is smaller and 7 speed but I can only get 440 miles (700kms) out of its' 55L.

Well nearly 700 miles over longer distances actually.

By the way, your 190 PS TSI emissions are higher than 190 PS TDI ones.

Hi Sasha, Have you ever had to deal with the chrome strip around the AC vent peeling off? Its starting to come out on my car and I remember the dealer had repaired it once previously under warranty during a routine service.

Nah, it's 'cos VW tarnished the image of all diesel engines considerably with their duplicity. They are still significantly better for the planet, due to lower CO2 emissions.

@JGrindel where did you get that part number from? I'd expect it to be 6Q0 423 445 instead; item 18A here: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2008-608/4/423-423040/#18A

From reading around on here its a under car job to replace but it seems fairly simple. I would estimate 30-1 hours labour minimum but I am no mechanic. - Sensor at around £120 and labour @ £100 ish, I would expect a bill of around £200-250! BUT get the battery checked before you sink money into the sensor as it could well be the battery on its way out. My car had a tendency to throw a brake fault error when the battery started dying.