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Finally an estate, good value and and good range. https://mg.co.uk/mg5-ev/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs-PFjICl7AIVh6Z3Ch1TuANpEAAYASAAEgJ-kvD_BwE

In my younger days when the lads were running Escort RS turbos or similar they had turbo timers that let the engines run for anywhere up to 2 mins after turning engines off when they had been giving it the beans ---- If you used that as a benchmark, your doing 70 (As thats the speed limit ) and coming off at services, by the time you've got into the slow lane say up to 1 mile prior to the exit, pulled into services and parked etc, that should be more than enough time to achieve cool down as the turbo wont of been working hard for that period of time, approx 2 mins. I would definitely take it easy when driving from cold.

Went for a haldex oil change plus pump (mesh filter) clean today and it wasn't as clogged up as I thought it would be. Thought I'd post this for reference/comparison purposes. 20900miles on clock.

So do I. But so far (touchwood) apart from 1 very hot day, it has performed flawlessly since a firmware update. Which is something that I asked Garlands to do in the first place. 🙄

As I said doesn't really float my boat. not my idea of fun - if I wanted to change the gears manually I'd have gone for a manual. But if it works for you then good on ya!

A fairly reductio ad absurdum scenario, but the basic fact is that your insurer can't get out of paying third party claims, regardless of how naughty you've been. There's an argument that they might reduce any payout to the insured if the claim can be directly linked to an undeclared modification. There's a whole lot of scaremongering goes on about insurance being cancelled and I'd welcome any evidence of it ever having happened retrospectively.

This is more important IMO. Like Scout said the natural slow down of any journey should be enough for the turbo to calm down a bit without worry. It is far more likely that too much is asked of the system when starting from cold so tak it easy for a mile or so at least. With my tdi I wait till the oil temp shows a reading on maxidot (>50c) which also coincides with the water temp getting to its usual 90c. At the know there is at least a little heat in the block etc before I ask much of it.

Great work The 'official' way to lock the flywheel on this engine is to remove the engine speed sensor and insert a bolt that has been ground to a point into the vacant bolt hole...

I hadnt realised the 4x4 was only on the 280, thanks for that heads up as i'd not picked that up Knowing the differences in the TFSI engines, thats the info i was hoping for! Thanks all for your comments and guidance, i'm definitely only looking for a 280/272 now!!

Im getting an average of 26mpg Life is too short to worry about fuel economy.

You can't beat a good old cambelt debate every so often, Briskoda wouldn't be the same without one every few weeks. Skoda UK is the importer of Skoda vehicles to the UK's franchised dealer network, therefore it is Skoda UK's rules we are asked to follow, not those of Skoda Auto or Continental. Skoda UK have a history of being far from clear with servicing and maintenance requirements, their dealer network, fed by Skoda UK are often even less clear. It's been like this forever. What we do know however is that: - No Skoda UK vehicles fitted with cambelts have life-long intervals. Bristol Street Motors in Middlesbrough are unfortunately wrong on this occasion. - The cambelts fitted to the engines mentioned in this thread are not bathed in oil. Hopefully the local trusted independent mechanic was having a bad day. - The Skoda UK cambelt interval on cars registered prior to September 2010 is a blanket 4 years (mileage limitations also apply). - The Skoda UK cambelt interval on cars registered in September 2010 and ever since has been a blanket 5 years (again mileage limitations still apply). As already mentioned though, beyond it's fifth birthday the car is out of manufacturers warranty, so as owners you're free to make your own decisions based on the various information around the varying stipulations on the same cars sold outside the UK, and of course the belt manufacturers themselves. However, if you choose to follow Skoda UK's regime and replace the belt at 5 years, and it fails at some point later, then even if out of warranty Skoda have been known to make gestures of goodwill towards the repair costs, which is far from a cast iron guarantee and again for which their are pros and cons. For me, any decent mechanic can replace a cambelt on these engines in a few hours, the kits themselves, even genuine parts from Skoda are not expensive. A cambelt can be fitted for £300 at an independent, with another £50 to replace the weak waterpump whilst he or she has the belt off. A UK car has an average lifespan of 15 years? So that's roughly two cambelts across it's entire lifetime. If however owners choose a different path then that's their choice and one to be respected. I like my cars to be dependable and am a big supporter of preventative maintenance so I'll stick to changing it every so often, simply for peace of mind. As to the OP's original question, the 1.4 TSI is an absolute peach of an engine. Bag a good one now whilst you can. If the 1.5 TSI is anything to go by the 1.4 TSI will be one of the last decent combustion engines VAG produce. Good luck!

Well good news is the engine turns over freely, nothing has stuck or siezed in the 2years since the engine went back in. Only wound it over with a ratchet on the crank bolt but it’s a start. I have now got a running in base map from Faboka (John) which will allow me to at least get it started and run in. Boost pressure is standard VRS which is more than enough to bed everything in. Battery is on a long trickle charge, hopefully it’ll come back to life after 4yrs off the car. Tomorrow evening will see the battery reconnected, a test of all systems, then try and load the new map onto the ecu with my mpps cable- if I can remember how to do it?? I’ll try and bleed some fuel through up to the engine and check everything for leaks. I’m not going for the big start until my two mates who’ve helped me out so much are round, beer and pizza have been mentioned so all will be good I hope. I have fitted the spare wheel tonight, cleaned all the tools and that’s the boot finished.. More tomorrow

Calm down ladies......let me explain Firstly the belt does not run in oil, someone is confusing this with Ford Ecoboost engine designs. There is no MUST about cambelt changes, they are recommendations only, in any case any car over 5 years will normally be out of warranty so no claim would be possible. But heres some detail...... The 5yr/60000 mile recommendation is a Skoda UK (official importer) thing. Lots, but not all dealers will follow that, except some try it on at 4yrs/40,000 miles. Skoda factory maintenance manuals on the other hand state that its recommended the cambelt is examined at 5yrs/120,000 (iirc) miles and give a detailed procedure of how to examine and what to check. Then take appropriate action, change the belt or leave it for another 2 years/20,000 miles and re examine. Until the mileage limit of 120,000* is hit then change it regardless of condition. A number of design innovations supposedly make this possible. Firstly the belt drive is quite simple, no driving the water pump directly, which is now driven by another much smaller belt at the opposite end of the camshaft. The sprockets are of a CTC oval design which reduces repetitive tension stress. The belt material and construction used are now much more long lived and its now quite a beefy wide belt . The valves are actuated by low friction roller rocker fingers again reducing load. SSP-511_The_New_EA211_Petrol_Engine_Family.pdfpdf Both Continental, who came up with this innovation over many years of development and VAG have stated at various times in promotional and technical papers that the belt is now a "lifetime" part, but its also obvious that when it dies its life is over. There is also the other vacuum cleaner size toothed belt at the other end of the camshaft that drives the water pump, but its not so instantly disastrous if that were to break. Hope this help you all understand EA211 cambelts and make informed decisions. *120,000 is my recollection, but it may be 110,000 or even 130,000 miles. In my experience its unlikely a UK skoda dealer would carry out such an inspection even if asked.

Can I suggest perhaps it is time to issue an deadline for this to be resolved after which you will start legal action - if you are prepared to go down that route as there is no point making the threat if you can't/won't follow through? Presumably everything is well documented so you can show they were made aware of the fault within warranty and no-one has told you that it is a series of different faults which have been rectified but all unfortunately around the gearbox. Martin Lewis's Money Saving Expert site is very good with its layman's guide to the law but my understanding is that if a defect is brought to the attention of the dealer (as that is who you have your contract with) within the warranty period they can't later dismiss your claim because time has run on and the car is now out of warranty. It's important to remember that although Skoda UK can be helpful in getting things resolved to protect the Skoda reputation you don't have a direct claim against them. There's also some interesting stuff about only being entitled to make one repair. Might be worth sitting down with your paperwork and making a list of the key dates, what was agreed/diagnosed, by whom, what action was taken and the outcome. This could go with a letter (I'd send it recorded delivery) to the dealer setting out what you want done, by when and in the absence of resolution what you will do next. A summary of the issues may also may be helpful if you do have to involve a solicitor and help keep any costs down. One final thought, whilst a letter from a solicitor might focus the dealer's attention if you feel capable the Small Claims Court could offer you a way forward. I've used it a couple of times now for disputes and the paperwork is easy to complete (you can download it to have a look), you don't need to be represented by a solicitor either in court or to prepare the application - and in fact the guidance suggests this should be avoided if possible - and it's cheap; making an application to the court costs around £80 from memory. The hearings I've attended were in small conference rooms with just the judge, myself and a couple of defendants. Even if you lose provided the case was "reasonable" (as this would seem to be, it's not premature, frivolous or vindictive) it's extremely unlikely either side would be awarded costs against the other so all you'd be risking would be your time and court fees. If you got a judgement in your favour then you will have a CCJ against the dealer and then if necessary this can then be enforced by High Court Sheriffs - there is a small fee to have the case transferred to the High Court and Sheriff fees but you should get that back. Sheriffs (I think they are now called High Court Enforcement Officers) have additional powers over bailiffs including being able to enter commercial premises to seize goods. I suspect you wouldn't need to go that far - a solicitor's letter and possibly filing an application to the court should get their attention; no reputable business wants to find itself in court with an unhappy customer with the attendant bad publicity. If you do decide to file an application I would get two or three estimates to have the work done elsewhere and ask for a judgement for either the work to be completed by a specific date or the cost of having the work done elsewhere including any incidentals, such as rental car - if you don't ask it won't be in the Court Order. Good luck. (I should make clear I'm not a legal professional just a stroppy b*****d whose had to learn the hard way).

Hi I want to buy a 2 to 3 year old Octavia, having owned two Octavia's in the past I know they are great cars (my previous one was a 2015 diesel ) but now I want a petrol ULEZ version and not sure which engine to go for, Is the 1.0 engine too small for the size of car? Im expecting to do around 8000 miles a year for general driving about. I have a budget of around 12-13K Any tips gladly appreciated as I dont want to regret buying the wrong engine. Regards Stuart

I bought my 280 Sportline wagon a year ago. I thought i'd done enough research before buying it, but I hadn't. in my opinion, it's a great load lugger, but the suspension is way too wallowy. I should have got one with DCC. I don't like the chrome on L&K, which is one of the reasons why I ignored it. I paid a grand for the supply and fitting of uprated shockers and uprated rear anti roll bar, and this has sorted the naff suspension. Apart from that, I've no complaints. :)

Heh, that's quite a drive and a ferry from here VAGHelper + VCP should be enough to solve this. If you have problems once you've got VCP up and running, feel free to drop me a bcm1 file from the PQ35 BCM programmer, I'll check it over and make any tweaks that need doing.

You probably need VCP or ODIS-e to correct the underlying lighting config in the BCM EEPROM. VCDS won't be enough unfortunately. Where are you based? If you're somewhere near me I can take a look

Overall with or without DCC, the 280/272 is tuned more towards comfort. My non DCC 280 sportline is OK in town but feels nice and pliant (not wallowy) at higher speeds e.g. motorway speeds. With DCC I guess you have more modes to choose from to alter it a bit.

Both the Octy and 272 feel firm at say 30mph in town and can thump on badly surfaced/pot holed urban roads. However pick up the pace (17 miles of my commute is motorway) and ride is better in the Superb even though both cars are lowered the same 15mm compared to less sporty models in their range. Wife was quite happy sitting in the sports seats in the Sportline for 5 hours straight as we did a recent 280 mile drive down to Newquay in Cornwall whereas she probably would have asked me to stop after 3 hours in the Octy. Small thing probably only available on the later 272 Sportline Plus is standard Dynamic Progressive steering which is very good indeed but not sure whether it was available on the earlier 280 model. Think the longer wheelbase in the Superb gives the better ride. My car even has lower than standard 235/35R19 Michelin tyres.

This is not a supercar but it's better than original 😅

Yeah, shut up!

Playing Devil's Advocate if you remapped both the 2.0TDI and the 1.5Tsi they would end up around the same power as the 190PS 2.0 litre petrol yet still be more economical than the 2.0 litre turbo petrol engine (cake and eat it).

Agreed. It's really is silly to compare the engines so closely. They are different engines. Point. Yes thy happen to have the same peak power but that's about it. I personally am fully converted to petrol now. And would take a 1.5 TSI over a 2.0 TDI any day. The petrol just feels better to drive and yeah it doesn't have the same punch but when you're just wanting to pootle around then it doesn't matter.

I've used Torque for live data and I think it will read fault codes too.

All these mods will change the sound of the induction noise, and will create the illusion of more power. In reality, on a fairly puny city car, you won't be able to actually measure any perceived performance gain. Changing the standard air filter for a similar good quality one every so many thousand miles is as good as it gets. I'm willing to be proved wrong by any genuine apples-for-apples, back-to-back dyno test result graphs (but not the usual advertising-faked-up-but-still-cleverly-legal rubbish published by K&N). Fun to see advertising wins in the end though!

Well past time that there was one. That will be just what many trades people, couriers etc need instead of the pathetic Light Commercial EV's. I spotted the MG EV as an Estate on the Motability list this quarter and thought that was an error as the e-Niro shows as an estate. It is going to suit many people, especially those that might need to be able to carry a wheel chair / buggy and have a hoist. Much cheapness on the Advance Payment. The hatch is even cheaper at £0.00.

Give the man a coconut. The next time I drove on the motorway, it behaved exactly as it should.

Using the part from Ebay and a T6 torx screwdriver plus the youtube video I have replaced the cover old my key fob. Now looks like new. Thank you for the feedback.

The gear shifter can just go to manual and drop one gear at a time as you wish & then knock it back into 'D' rather than shift back to 'S'. In 'S' it has 6 gears and changes up at a higher RPM, in manual you are just dropping from 7 D to 6 D etc. D back to S to decelerate is very handy, especially in winter, off the accelerator and D back to S and no or less touching of the brakes.

Yeah - that was part of sales pitch 'Upgraded Media Unit' - so they've shot themselves in the foot. I wondered why the Sales Manager smirked when he told me.... Never have trusted main dealers - but I had no choice with this car as it was the only one that was affordable and specced to my liking and I only had two weeks to buy a car before I went to France as my previous vRS' cambelt snapped... (I should add - at 80 on the motorway... not much engine left

Hatboy Harvey is the bomb.

Tony Octavia, Do you tow or use a lightboard? I normally use the eco settings, bit have noticed when I tow or use a hitch mounted bike rack, I plug in a lightboard, the gubbins switches to normal mode, you have to reset to eco. It amuses me when in eco, the revs drop to near tick over when it's freewheeling at 70 odd, then picks up when under load again, it frit the **** out of me first time ,I thought something calamitous had happened!

Yep used the citigo in full winters, not studs. Around the peak and trips up to Scotland in winter. i think I felt safer in it than previous octavias. certainly in a recent rain storm it would of handles rain better than the big superb on its wide tyres. something about skinny winter tyres just works. They sort of stayed in the car, through summer. Made some corners fun, but those really rainy storm days, I felt very happy hitting water. winter pros cons however, the Citigo lights were poor For hazard spotting afar, so updated bulbs. And rear drums had a sticky tendency, maybe from salt & heat, who knows, so frequently parked without handbrake on the gearbox in winter. another plus is it’s small, so it heats up quickly, and it’s a small area to defrost, so your fingers will love you. Any car, almost any driver , I’d bet would be in a pickle when you hit ice or black ice. One small plus with the citigo, you’ll be going somewhat slower than a 280hp superb 4x4... I do miss the citigo. oh and I was told by a tyre company exec, the tyre labels for efficiency, noise rain, yeah what we maybe compare tyres on....no validation required. So a manf can claim a, but it might be c. That may of changed in the last six odd years, but take everything with a pinch of salt. And tyres change , kings rise and fall. think it was my roomster I had great fun in heavy snow on a motorway driving around folk, and the little toy Ld discovery following me eventually gave up. problem I always found though, eventually you come to a point you can’t carry on as road is blocked. So eventually learnt not to go out unless I had too Any good winter tyre if you expect snow more than once is worth it. That and a sleeping bag, water bottle

Can you remind me if these are free for non Scots?

Glovebox unit looks like my MIB1 Bolero which has Bluetooth but no DAB.

I tested the 3 bolts shown above and they are all a good earth if that helps anyone.

Hi there, the needle sweep I coded using ODB11. Iv found it quite useful on the whole but I think I will buy the RossTech VCDS cable soon as long coding is a bit hairy in ODB11. I added the bonnet insulation because it looked like there was something missing. I hoped the engine might warm a bit quicker in the winter and it might be a bit quieter but in all honesty I’d be lying if I said I had noticed any improvement. But it does look better when the bonnet is up :)

@1874joe If you upload the photos in a format such as jpg then the thread will automatically show them without any need for downloading. In fact, if you were to actually do that I'd remove the previous post and photos so as to not affect your storage quota.

Buy Unimog drive to Toyota dealer Park Unimog on top of Land Cruiser Plant flag of victory through Land Cruiser roof and claim it as yours Post pictures on Briskoda Become all time legend

My LED upgrade helps me SEE better when reversing down my drive........

Cheers NZ100 forgot to mention that was the first thing i tried lol

Be tempted to get a Hunter alignment done by someone that knows how to use it

The 220 is basically the golf gti engine and the 280 is the golf r engine. 220 uses smaller turbo has a few different engine internals so although you can map it to about 280hp, you can map the 280 to 350hp or more. Just get the 280 4x4 unless you have a loyalty scheme with a tyre shop (wheelspin!)

Two things have happened since reading this thread, I ordered a camera, and I joined this forum. Thank you for the inspiration, I'll let you know when it arrives and gets fitted.

Good luck with this John Just bought my first Yeti today and am keen to get the Haldex oil changed and gauze cleaned. Is this DIY'able, or best done at a garage for the sake of £100 or so?

If can't afford / don't want to borrow money, (but can afford to purchase outright, not so unusual for us senior citizens...) can you start with a PCP, to get the £2K discount & then settle the account with cash?

All cars are a compromise. You can't tow a caravan with a Ferrari! I bought the Yeti 9 years ago because I wanted a smallish 4x4 for rural winter driving as I'd moved house & commute to work on untreated roads at 5am. I've driven hot hatches & later quick turbo diesels for the first 20+ years of my driving career, but loved the Yeti when it came out. The fact that it was based on the vastly improved Golf 5/6 platform made it a definite shortlister. I was blown away by the interior quality too, but mostly how well it drove. The only thing that came close was the Kuga back then, & I tried all the Yeti's main rivals, & it was head & shoulders above the rest. The fact that the 170tdi 4x4 Elegance was ideally specced for my needs & was roughly £2k cheaper than it's rivals was the icing on the cake. The only reason I fitted the Eibachs wasn't to modify it but because I had a rear spring snap & I also had leaks on the front struts. I'd also used Eibachs before on an Alfa 156 & they transformed that car immeasurably without compromise, so it can be done. The Eibachs were also a fair bit cheaper than genuine standard Yeti springs & the combination of Eibachs & Bilstein B4s give the same normal road ride quality as standard, better infact over really sharp bumps & potholes, the Bilsteins are better quality & the damping feels more sophisticated than the standard dampers. The only compromise is I've lost about an inch of ground clearance, but as I don't do any more off-roading than normal farm tracks, it doesn't affect my requirements of the car, so it's perfect for my needs. As I'm oldish & we live in a low risk area, insurance with mods declared (including the stage 1 remap) is never more than £240 fully comp with protected NCB, so even that's not really a big compromise. The car's done 132K 100% mechanically reliable miles, 80k on the remap & economy is about 5% improved over standard, so once again, no compromise.

Yep, I haven’t been to the UK in a long time - surely the traffic isn’t that bad that a short freeway stint without being in stop and go traffic can’t be done on a fairly regular basis?

I do a lot of town driving with mine and even taking it on a 50mph freeway for 20mins or so is usually enough to do a regen