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Race blue vrs hatch, dsg.

Mine in Moon White 🤤 coated with Ceramics before leaving dealer.

@dijit I really think you should do things a bit differently. Your Warranty Started with the car being First Registered. You had best get things sorted out by the supplying dealership. They could have paid for an Approved Repairer so a Skoda Dealership to have things correct and you having a proper Full Service History for the future.

As above, I can confirm that the Sportline is indeed the choice of the discerning buyer.......

Normal skoda pads are ATE Skoda ECO are made by Mando

Yep they are definitely quick cars even in standard form. I’ve logged my 280 at 5.2 secs 0-60 with a gps dongle plugged in via my phone, maybe not as accurate as proper timing gear but a couple of runs it was consistently there. it really is brutal acceleration and very easy to find yourself going a lot faster than you should be if you let it. god knows what these stage 1 and 2 people are getting to experience! Hopefully one day I’ll go stage 1 on mine but it’s certainly no slouch at the moment.

A Terraclean would be the very last thing to be having done on engines that might need 'actions' by the manufacturer even after the Manufacturers Warranty has expired because the future is not known on engines that some have had issues from their launch. You only know what 4 or 5 year old engines are going to be like for longevity 4 or 5 years after they have been on the road. Especially with VW who never admit issues even at 1,2 or 3 years old.

I'm still on the lookout for an ex police MK1 vrs in white, to restore back to police spec. If anyone had one for sale please get in touch. Any condition, complete or not considered.

Sorry i do mean ign off and key out ive tried locking it and it still stays on. Ill check to see if there is a setting thank you. Its a 2005 aswell

I don't think you need to have functioning windows for MOT? For number 6 try cleaning the connections (careful with the main positive one, disconnect battery negative first). Can't explain it, but not long into ownership of our Fabia the starter motor was screeching after it did its work. Went to change it but was thwarted by a socket set lacking an 18mm. Cleaned up the connections, tried it again and everything was working right. Still have the unused spare starter somewhere that hasn't been needed since. 6 or 7 years ago at least now.

ii4c on my old mk1 octy if there wasnt a "clink" pulling out the key so that the keyhole cover clicked shut the radio would occasionally stay on. as if the car thinks the key is still in until that covers drops. a shot of contact cleaner and jiggle solved the sticky cover and solved the radio. it may be the same?

Probably with the Ctek negative lead connected to the engine earth as per the handbook advice for jump leads?

I had a failed actuator on my 2013 Mk3 Octavia. Bought part from TPS, but found one bolt to remove unit was only available by undoing wheel arch lining. Gave up and let my garage do it.

Make sure you open the ZIP file and move the 2 folders and 1 file to the SD card. Dont put the whole ZIP file on the SD card. SD card should look similar to this: (the md5 hash file has no value for the upgrade and doesnt need to be on there) There should be 2 folders starting with MIB2..... and a file. Also there are known issues with doing on a Mac and some odd hidden files staying behind. Although the progress may not be properly visible. You should at least see there is an update on the SD card. (What the system doesnt do is check whether the update on the SD card is newer than whats installed. Even after completing the update, it still tells me there is an update on SD card. Taking the SD card out resolves that problem.)

Same here, no idea when 4x4 side of things is kicking in, never had any issues on the sheet ice on the drive or snow and ice locally. In places it’s too slick to walk on but our cars drive over it as if it was normal gravel. I suspect the full winter tyres are providing enough grip that the haldex hasn’t felt the need yet.

I chose it because I preferred a rear seat with a solid back over the three moveable seats in the SE Ls or Editions. While many owners swear by them, I didn't like the way the contents of the boot were exposed if you folded the middle seat's back down to use as an armrest. I also preferred the solid boot cover and painted bumpers. Again others disagree, but at least you have the choice. The rear seat doesn't slide but gives you more room that the VarioFlex seats in their standard position. In theory there should be less rear legroom, but it wasn't obvious when I was measuring up in the showroom in the summer. Perhaps the Edition's leather seats are thicker and take up more space? My 2.0 TSI is still on its first tank of fuel so far (due to covid lockdowns) but seems to be doing about 30 mpg with just trips of around 16 miles a week. Longer journeys would no doubt help the economy, but higher speeds would reduce it. I like the comfort (the Sportline has different profile tyres to the SE L & Edition) but added the dynamic chassis control as well so it may not be typical of standard cars. No idea if the 4x4 has ever kicked in, but it was very surefooted in what snow we had in Staffordshire. If you've any specific queries, I'll try to help. Chris

Stage 1 here. I have to say a stage 1 re-map on a 280 /272 is pretty awesome. A lot of extra "bang for your buck" for an extra +80bhp (now 360) & +40nm torque (now 488nm) & some other stg 1 re-maps can get more than this! All with stock exhaust & other plumbing. I had mine done middle of last year (Revo). I'm not sure what the stats are now but it's easily sub 5s 0-60 I'd say. Better than that though is the in-gear 30-50/60/70mph acceleration for more useable everyday use. Runs on 99RON fuel to get the best out of it. Acceleration in sport mode is fairly savage so I'm trying to stay in D or manual shift to use the extra torque in higher gears. The only downside currently is the fuel consumption. Ordinarily there world be no change stock vs stg 1 but with all the short local journeys during lockdowns 22-24mpg is as good as it gets for now. I did get 36mpg on a run once last rear though. The trouble is, once you get on the modification "hamster wheel" it's not easy to get off. I'm now looking at a rear sway bar upgrade & perhaps some induction mods. I want to keep the car looking as stock as possible to preserve it's sleeper identity so no lowered springs or body kits - famous last words! My 280 is going to be a keeper. At least that's what I told myself until I saw that new Cupra Formentor which can have the same / similar EA888 engine & 4x4 system - definitely not a sleeper looking vehicle though. It's a good looking car but quite expensive so I'll have to wait & see what the used prices are like in a year or so.

Had to google what that was. I bet your 10yo loves that! Digital whoopy cushion, now that has to be a good use of technology!

Don’t think that’s an elegance, no xenons, heated seats etc. Also it looks like a city model and not an outdoor.

Door Speakers. Started with the rears, and followed pretty much the same procedure that is well documented on youtube and elsewhere. Use trim panel tools to get the door off, use forked tool to really get in behind each clip. As this car is less than a year old they were really really stiff but the tool did work, you do need to use force, but in a measured capacity, for instance don't go yanking anything but do get the tool in the right position and give it a good measured pull. Drill out the rivets for the stock speakers. Use a riv nut tool to put in M4 rivet nuts. Sound deadening added to flat panels of the door. I didn't want to go overkill with this stuff. So added it to the large flat surface around the speaker housing, on the flat panel inside the hole on the exterior of the door below the actuator, then did the knock test on other areas. Just use a knuckle to gently knock the panel, you can tell by the sound if it needs deadening or not. A good rule of thumb is flat areas are more likely to vibrate, bent mental as largely quite stiff and solid. The difference in the sound of the door closing with even just this little amount of deadening is incredible. Next on was the connects2 6.5 speaker adapter. Then I got some of those fast rings that @JohnnyType2 used. They are awesome! A solid disc gets stuck to exterior panel, 1 ring gets cut and stuck to the back of the speaker so as you mount it to the adapter there is a layer of foam between the plastic and the speaker, and the magnet nicely rests in to the foam disc. Then the largest ring goes around the speaker so that when the trim panel goes back it presses up against the plastic, fully directing the sound out the through the grille. Lovely, must buy product!

I don't think that's an elegance as it's clearly missing bi-xenon headlights too. It won't have a USB port with that style of Bolero either - odd as I'd expect a FL Yeti to get the MIB style Bolero...

Thanks for all the advice, I think ill keep the car for the time being, Makes sense what you have been saying. It's still returning pretty good MPG, Better than any petrol car I've owned. Thanks again......Graeme.

If I remember correctly, there are some changes on the MK4 Octavia VC's, namely the no longer have MOST (fibre optic) for the maps display so I doubt they will ever big a good choice for a MK3. At the very least, you'd probably need a MIB3 headunit to get things working properly. What headunit have you got and which software do you have? Can you add an autoscan and adaption map of 5F? Much like Krosta, adding the VC and getting the maps etc working was all pretty simple. After adding the fibre optic cable, a few tweaks on 5F and everything was working

Will keep a look out for you.

Amazing ! Really enjoyed reading your post and seeing the pics.

I stand corrected, I had not realised that the failure mode involved burning, I had assumed that the problem was simply one of having cold buttocks like the rest of us plebs! Come to think of it I had an electric blanket fail that way, burnt a small hole through the mattress protector and fitted sheet and I then looked in the mirror and found a burn on my shoulder! I had not felt anything and can not have had an electric shock as the disjoncteur différentiel had not tripped.

I bought these after quite a bit of research. 10/10.

- thanks bigman1976 - I'm actually thinking about putting a Knight Rider LED strip on the car at some stage..

I would keep the car you have, turbos can be noisy for years and not fail. With the cambelt just run the risk of not getting done plenty of cars dont have them changed on time.

Mine is Fuse27. Take out the glovebox. You will find it in there. Check your manual because the fuse number could be different.

Your car will most likely have a metal sump and plug. You'll probably notice very few issues if you use the wrong oil. You might not achieve the quoted emissions or consumption figures? Personally I'd be sticking to the correct oil if my car was under warranty.

Nice! This is the car I imagine Darth Vader would drive.

A gentle reminder about the Consumer Rights Act 2015 could be in order, if it is less than 6 months since you bought it, the fault is presumed to have existed at the point of sale, unless the seller can prove otherwise. Similarly, no private individual buys a car from a trader at around 3 years old with a warranty on it and then expects a £500 bill to be presented to them within 3 months. Whilst the seat cover and structure isn't covered, you could argue that the mat is an electrical component that is housed within the seat structure, but ultimately it is a separate component that is part of the HVAC system in the vehicle - which I would expect is covered under the warranty.

About the steering wheel: I have virtual cockpit from Octavia III FL and the buttons on the steering wheel are working (except for the button for travel assist (right top corner button) and I can't change VIEW, everything else is working, the button for heated steering wheel too. Regarding to coding, I need only to enable the option, that I have the button on steering wheel. About the settings on your Columbus regarding VC, you need to have Gateway 3Q0 and it should be working with correct coding (the settings in infotainment) I don't know about any other workaround. Right know with my friend, we would like to try to create a "translation" unit for LIN communication - example: If you press right left button, it will send to car "VIEW" button click, so far it looks like not possible option, but we will try Heated rear seats - just wirings and add heating pads Additional independent heating - I mean auxiliary heating and about tri-zone climatronic, I am not sure, what is needed to be change :/ rSAP retrofit is consist of two LTE antenas under the rear bumber and coaxial cables to infotainment unit, nothing else Media Command is SWaP code, but it is not so useful I have used it once, I think. And I think, that it is available for MIB2.5

So guys, it was entirely paint transfer, except for a tiny spot where I think the collision happened. Must have been something like a scooter that fell on it because he made a line that went over the back door handle and continue but did not touch the mirror. I tried removing most of it using WD40 and a microfiber towel, that didn't work very well, I manage to remove most of it by rubbing a bit of it with either a nail or rubbing a bit harder with the cloth. After this, there were fine lines that were probably slightly deeper, I could remove them using a magic sponge eraser. Now you can barely see anything except at the point of impact where it is slightly darker for some reason. I have ordered some Turtle Wax scratch repair and will apply it over. But the thing I am the most relieved about is that it was definitely not intentional, I had a really hard couple of weeks at work, working from home since March. I feel alot better that this was just an accident.

For a first post I don't think a lot of it and you are the first I have used the ignore user button on. The spec of the cars you have in your profile and yet need to ask about speakers!

Quattro and cat butt.

Heya Iway Car was remapped by previous owner. He got it done by Joe at TDR Performance in Dublin/Kildale. I've seen some of the Irish VRS owners also highly recommending JTK in Waterford too. Never hard anyone reverence KC Systems so can't comment on them. And you're right - can be a very slippy slope 😂

Elon Musk has just been announced as having more billions in dollars to his name than any other Billionaire on the Planet and don't forget he is even building rockets for NASA through his Space X project. He might be able to afford fixing the touchscreens and may even find time to remove the fart function which seems a bit pointless unless American customers enjoying pressing that button when passengers clamber onboard.

I have a BlueSkySea B1W hardwired in my Octavia. Absolutely no problem with DAB. I used a Nextbase hardwire kit (carried over from my old car) as I found cheap ones caused issues and simply failed to work when it was really cold out.

I have a NEXTBASE 522gw which was fine on it's own until I added a rear view ball shaped camera, then it completely wiped DAB reception. I moved the rear view camera and added the ferrets which resolved the issue. We fit loads of nextbase 322gw units with the nextbase hardwire kits and have no issues.

Well, good news, Skoda has covered the whole turbo and actuator unit and this has now been replaced, the extended warranty has certainly saved me a fortune. I asked my dealer how much would it have cost if I just walked in and had it all replaced, he reckoned about £2300. Okay, probably a lot more than an independent or a repair/exchange unit but that would be expected, main dealers are normally the most expensive. This is one job I did not have to get price matched either. The pedal box did not make any difference I am of course very pleased to say! I emailed Skoda Customer Services last week about this, not heard anything yet.

Got the spacers fitted last week - H&R hubcentric, 15mm on the front and 20mm on the rear. Wheels filling the arches nicely now 😎

All mine! Still at the dealer! I hope I'll pick it up this week.

My VRS in quartz grey.

The 245 has a smaller IS20 turbo which spools up faster and earlier than the bigger IS38 9shared with the Golf R) of the 272/280. My standard 245 had 400nm at 2,600rpm whereas my standard 272 had 269nm at 4,500rpm and the 272 needed revving to almost 6,000rpm to get the best from it whereas the 245 gave its best performance upto 5,000rpm. The stage 1 245 gave 302bhp and 467nm and my stage 1 272 gave 360bhp and 514nm. When I took the 245 to stage 2 it produced 336bhp and 517nm but was a handful particularly on a wet road. I remember it spinning the front tyres at a barely believeable 77mpg in 3rd gear which is dangerous. The safer, better car is the 272/280 which is a more practical Golf R and a Golf R is better than a Golf GTi. They share the same brakes 340mm vented front discs and 310mm vented rear discs but the 245 was almost 300kg lighter so stopped better (1370kg versus 1,660kg). 4WD traction was very impressive on the 272 whereas the FWD 245 struggled to put its power down. Steering probably nicer and more direct on the 245 and both cornered well with the edge going to the lighter 245. Did 29,000 miles with a manual clutch on the 245 and just over 9,000 miles in the 7 speed DSG 272. Both averaged 40mpg which was impressive the 245 had a maximum range of 530 miles from the 50 litre tank and the 272 a maximum range of 720 miles from the 66 litre tank.

We will see what the Grenadier costs. Plenty people will pay whatever they feel they want to. Maybe NGO,s or charities needing capable vehicles.