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Well, thank you all for the help and advice. I finally bought a Yeti from my local Skoda dealer today. 2017 SE Drive Outdoor2.0tdi 150 DSG with 24k miles and service history. It has 2 years warranty with it

Having owned 3 yetis, ran another for a few months and driven several. Petrol/diesel, auto/manual. The 2.0Tdi 150 DSG is the best model. Caravan wise, 2100kg max tow, 1585kg kerbweight (Actual 1640kg on weighbridge) so comfortable towing upto 1600kg in my opinion. (I tow 1500kg) Make sure cambelt and waterpump done on 5 year service, make sure DSG serviced every 40k miles and make sure haldex serviced every 3 years (Including cleaning pump mesh).

When it sticks in reverse gear it is as if you are trying to pull it in neutral but without putting the clutch in first. As if the clutch is dragging and not disengaging properly. Thanks, AG Falco

Thanks i,ll give that a try.

I've just had to replace the tailgate badge on my Yeti (recent thread in that section has links to a couple of You Tube videos). It's recessed and I haven't got any specialist tools for lifting trims etc. but found I could force a plastic plant label under the edge of the badge and slide a screwdriver over this to lever off the badge - the plant label prevented any damage to the paintwork. The double sided tape left behind then just peeled off in one piece with gentle, sustained pulling. It turned out to be a much easier job than I feared!

Don't confuse the auto hold button with the stop start button. Both labelled with an A. On RHD cars the stop start button is on the right of the gear lever

You must have a fault with it then. I have to deactivate start/stop a lot in London as it's too slow to respond, so know full well it completely deactivates START/STOP if depressed (light on). Saying that I just replaced my glow plugs early, well they were still functioning, and this has helped the speed at which the system works.

Aww that's a crusher, especially after getting all that work done to it. Hope everything is ok and good luck with the sale if it comes to it.

First time I've seen one of these close-up (came right to the edge of the water)

Press this button

You missed out canal trouble!

Sorry, I seem to have conveniently avoided reading/taking in the fact that you already knew about these threaded studs, after writing that post I went searching for a cheapish source and did not find any, though I suppose it depends on what value I put on them. I like the idea of only buying aluminium alloys ones like VW Group supply into Toureg etc as they will be kinder on the alloy wheels, but mainly it seems they are all SS and yes with fancy writing on them to help justify the price. Even VW Group type scrappies seem to be having a laugh when selling the VW Group supplied ones from broken up vehicles. I might need to check the price at my localish VW dealership and if okay order another one in and reduce its length by "an inch", one of the plastic ones would do as a second one, but I seem to remember that the price for cheap plastic "real thing" is near enough the same as the aluminium alloy "real thing". Wrong, 893012223 £3.65 bought from Audi dealership back in August 2019 - that is the standard shorter plastic hollow dowel/wheel stabiliser or as VW Group call them "tommy bar"!

Guys i test drove an IV yesterday at Lookers Skoda in Newcastle upon Tyne and am sold, the IV is the route i am taking, i was sooo surprised with the blend between power and efficiency. Looks like my order will be going in tomorrow once ive let a few dealers fight over my order lol. Always looking to get the most i can for my money. Dan

All you had to was stop somewhere and you could have disabled it perfectly safely.

Comes as standard the usbc is only power

Skoda has sports mode which is the same as GTE mode, i.e. full power always available. Fellow Passat owner here waiting on my superb IV to finish production. In my opinion, the hybrid is best suited to the platform. You get a smooth (ish) petrol engine, silent running about town, the same torque as a golf R for when you want to get a move on and better economy than the diesels unless you're doing moon miles. When the battery is flat you are left with just the 150hp petrol engine. It's adequate and will keep up with traffic. If you're fully loaded it's a bit weak but gets the job done. You can force it to charge when on the go. This will dent your fuel economy but generally means full power is always available.

Thanks for the info

I haven't seen piston slap in years, modern engines are so finely toleranced and oils so good that I can't imagine how it would happen. If you have enough skirt wear for the piston to rock in the bore that much then oil blowby is a certainty so I'm not sure why you don't agree Ken other than that you're inherently argumentative.

If you click on the map links from @PetrolDave added, it will "show" you members of this forum that have VCDS diagnostic tool that might be able to help, just zoom in on the map near your location to find someone. It shows in the list of users someone in Hull. Then send them a private message to see if they might be able to help you by getting fault codes read from the car.

I feel my velvet red Superb has a very soft paint. It is super easy to get scratches and swirls. Definitely softer than my previours Japanese cars. Even my Infiniti Q50, a car is famous for soft paint, was tend to perform better than my Superb.

I ordered a couple of weeks ago and was told mid December so sounds about the same. vRS TSI DSG estate.

I wonder what's going to happen on Winter, you will have no heat in the beginning.

Or typically, a speed where you can stop in half the distance you can see clear.

Right order (I think), but pedal pumping rather than vacuum bleeding risks getting air into the ABS block, with possibly the results you document. I think you may need to do a VCDS bleed of the ABS.

It's rather not a common issue. Do you have possibility to use some diagnostics tool, e.g. VCDS, Vag Can Pro or OBD Eleven?

Thanks Agedbriar. MXS 5.0 it is :-) Also means the charger can be used for other "non Stop/Start" cars too. I don't use Stop/Start anyway. I find it too intrusive and always disable it with the button on every drive. I am so glad I have the 19 model that has that button !

I doubt this is what the op is doing. Many people service their own vehicle and require the ability to reset the service indicator. Pretty sure vcds/obd11 has the ability.

It is a Garrett GTD1449VZ

I agree. Please name them so local members can take their business elsewhere….

The service now light can be reset by the dealer (or equipped independent) when plugged in during a service, you are not supposed to just cancel it and not do any servicing.

Sorry ,mate. No disrespect. But I hail from a part of the Highlands, where we had only one road, till the 80s, single track in almost it's length. Similar to Welsh roads, but I've seen a fair share of "nasties " in my years on this sort of road. Winter we had sheep/deer and other manners of nasties. In summer, we got tourists with less vision than the sheep we encountered sitting on the road. Just have a look at a post called Safes speed, where the "safe speed" is one I learnt about 50years ago "that space YOU as a responsible driver , can stop your vehicle in, with NO chance of collision, with another vehicle coming from the other direction.".

Very interesting find in the manual there for the Aussie Spec but I wonder why the Aussie dealers haven’t picked up on this and advertising the fact it’s a more powerful/quicker car? doesn’t make remapping as attractive now either if it really is 400Nm from stock.

The battery charging algorithm avoids charging at the expense of fuel consumption for as long as that policy is sustainable. But driving downhill I'm getting 15,0V, i.e. fast battery charging for free. The voltage drops as soon as the engine starts pulling again. To charge the ESB battery with my Ctek MXS 5.0 charger, I select the conventional battery mode, which tops at 14.4V (while in the AGM mode it would top at 14.7V). In fact, the newer Ctek CT5 Start-Stop model, apparently designed to fit both ESB and AGM technologies, doesn't go higher than 14.55V.

Lake was very still this evening

Another company I've bought from before is Rhino who are also in Leicester (are all boot liner makers in Leicestershire?) It could be worth giving them a a call if you live in the area. 0116 296 1355 Email: [email protected] https://rhinoukbootlinersltd.co.uk/

Here's a great offer for anyone in Leicestershire... SKODA ENYAQ BOOT LINER Unfortunately we do not have the pattern for this vehicle. However maybe you can help our design team and in return you will receive a free fully tailored boot liner complete with a Bumper Flap and Split Seat. You will also be given the option to choose an Extender and the colour of your choice. To develop a new pattern for your vehicle you will be required to make two visits to our factory. The first visit will be for our design team to take the relevant measurements directly from your vehicle so that we can transfer this data to our CAD software and produce a pattern for your vehicle. The second visit which will be a minimum of one week later will be for us to fit the liner into your vehicle and take promotional images. After the second visit you will then drive off with your brand new liner. We estimate each visit to be approximately 1 - 2 hours depending on the vehicle. Whilst at our premises you will be able to wait in our comfortable reception area where the tea and coffee is always flowing. Dogs are always more than welcome at Titan so if you do not want to leave them at home please feel free to bring them along with you. Our factory is based in Hinckley, Leicestershire. We are just off Junction 1 of the M69 and are very easy to get to. Our full address is Titan Covers Unit 6 Skecthley Meadows Hinckley Leicestershire LE10 3EN https://www.titancovers.co.uk/skoda-enyaq-2021-onwards-custom-boot-liner/

Yeap, I can confirm M14 x 1.5mm was what the one I got said it was, I got one with a cheaper finish than the one my mate got me. Both must have been more expensive though as they have a posh name - 'Alloy Wheel Alignment Removal Fitting Tool for Audi VW Skoda Mercedes SEAT Bolt', you can get them in sets of two, but both same length. I looked up my purchase history. My wife is just below 5 foot too, but she's a good swimmer so has no excuse.

Jerry57- yes I have been told week 33 for the build to start on the enyaq which is 16th Aug however my dealer copied me into a disclaimer skoda are requiring people to sign if they order from this week onwards regarding shortage of components. They are basically not giving estimate build dates from now on due to the issue with these semi conductors. I'm hoping they have enough supply for the cars they have provided dates for.

I used to live in the countryside as a kid and hitting pheasants was a common thing. Sometimes there would be zero damage, sometimes things would break. My dad always had plastic headlight protectors fitted on his cars just in case as they were cheap to replace but the light units weren’t.

@TheUltraRunner I was driving in comfort mode

It just confuses things if people start taking about 1.5 TSI,s ACT,s and DQ200 DSG,s that there was the need of software updates for engines and some of their DSG,s with 1.4 TSI,s and DQ200 DSG,s. Totally different kettles of fish. The last of the 1.4 and DSG,s were as good as VW got then there was a bit of a ****-up getting the 1.5,s ready for the WLTP. The OP needs their vehicles issue diagnosed by someone with all the gear and more than just ideas.

And the trouble with taking to a dealership for these sorts of problems is that according to VW/Skoda the Mechatronics and Gearbox are just complete units. If something breaks on them then they need completely replacing as a whole unit. Even though most DSG problems can be fixed relatively easily and inexpensively. So an independent specialist should know this and can usually fix it. Wonder if it's something like the accumulator that's cracked. And it's the loss of pressure in the mechatronics or something.

No insult taken, @VWD, but I do think the spirit and intent of my original post has been misinterpreted. Let me rephrase my post, but in bullet points. -1 I'm really looking forward to my holiday. -2 Many Welsh roads are great to drive on, and will let me explore the performance of my car, which I have spent the last year pottering around town in. -3 After 10 years with my old car, I knew it's handling characteristics intimately. I had no driver aids other than ABS on that car, so driving my new car at speed with a lot of electronic assistance will be a new experience, and I'm cautious about it. -4 Some of the B-roads roads in Wales are ridiculously narrow, with steep banks and passing places, meaning scratching the sides of my car on roadside bushes is a possibility. I don't like scratches on my car. -5 All those lovely roads in Wales may make me buying regret my sensible SE L and make me wish I had bought a vRS instead. -6 Even though my car is "sensible", it still has a top speed far in excess of that I will feel comfortable reaching. I remember when cars had more modest top speeds. That was all I was saying. Hope this clarification helps whoever needed it. No matter what I write, it seems there are always some people who seem determined to view my post through the least charitable lens. I do wonder where the "Won't somebody think of the children!" club are, when people are discussing getting 300 or 400+BHP out of their Octavias. Presumably nobody ever drives a tuned Octavia enthusiastically on the roads, those are all track cars? Still, if the virtue-signalling community wants to focus their opprobrium on me, if it means they're leaving someone else alone, I can put up with that.

Are you sure? Only this is the Octavia 1 forum, and the only thing we know about a DSG is that none of our cars have one.

Thankfully I have found the solution, and hopefully anyone having the same problem can give it a try, for me it worked. Long story short, it seems like the car had an accident in the back with the previous owner, causing the trunk door to move a little bit into either left or right side, nothing major. However I found that after it got repaired, nobody aligned it properly and the 2 rubber pieces were completely screwed all the way into the trunk. I attached a picture so that you know what I'm talking about. There are 2 rubber pieces helping the attenuation of the closing trunk. They can be screwed and unscrewed by twisting left or right. Mine were both completely screwed in and not only the boot wasn't properly sealing, thus making that rubber vibrating noise with the metal portion they touch when it's closed, but it was also making a really unpleasant sound when closed from any height. I fixed both issues by unscrewing the left rubber more than the right one since it seems like the boot still isn't 100% straight into position after the accident, so I had to compensate more from one side. Since then, I have absolutely no rattle and closing the truck sounds deep, as it should. Thanks for all suggestions either way! I really appreciate the help!

Just bought front pair Bosch A863S and A331H rear blades, fitted perfectly. (LHD)

Glad you (almost) managed to get your clutch problem and refund of your engineer's report costs sorted. But isn't it a disgrace that you had to suffer so much hassle and indifference from your Skoda dealer. They deserve to go out of business. Unfortunately we are seeing more and more of this attitude across many segments of business. You should name and shame them on the dealer reviews section of this forum once your dealings with them are over, then take your servicing business elsewhere. And well done to the member who provided you with the technical information issued by Skoda in support of your case. Just appalling that your dealer didn't come forward with the information in the first place.

I have some of the same feelings. My wife's car is a 2015 VW Golf Alltrack and I think that is the best car I have ever driven. I was hoping the VRS would be very similar but better and in many ways it is but only if it is 100% reliable and fault-free. Also my own car for the last 19 years until 3 weeks ago was a Honda S2000 that I had had since new. In many ways that was the best car I have ever owned. It was certainly the most expensive. I loved driving it on a good day on a twisty road or on a racetrack but, on reaching my 70th birthday, I decided I had had enough of its noise and discomfort and wanted to pamper myself in my old age. Also to be able to take my grandkids in my own car without having to borrow my wife's. And the Skoda offered the same power and performance, albeit with a bit more weight and less sharp handling. Now I wonder if I have made the right choice. The S2000 has NO frills like cruise control or traction control or other driving aids, electronic or mechanical. It is pure motoring at its most basic. As a result there is little to go wrong. I drove it 270,000 KMs and it never let me down, although I did replace a few things that wore out, including the engine. Now it seems that all cars are going down this software-driven route maybe the most sensible thing would have been to buy a second-hand car of the previous generation, e.g. a low KMs example of my wife's car.

My petrol VRS can only dream of such MPG's. I get around town 28 , motorway 42 tops. I didnt give that a thought when i ordered. I just thought ooh the spirited drive, slip diff , 0-60 etc.

If you don't get a response from the dealership (or agent representing the seller you entered the financial agreement with) in a 'reasonable' amount of time, write back to them stating what you want, in that further to your previous communication dated ***, 1, An independent evaluation has found and stated in writing that the operation of the clutch system was defective and the fault has been identified with the mechanism outside of the excluded wearing parts listed in the vehicle warranty statement and present since the vehicle was built/prior to your ownership. 2, Under terms of the warranty, you expect the defective parts to be repaired or replaced and all other parts damaged as a consequence of the parts failure to be replaced at no further cost to yourself. 3, You allow them a stated time period to respond to the request with an appropriate plan of action (1 week from the date of the email/letter for example) 3a, (optional) You require a courtesy vehicle whilst yours is Off Road. (If you have one of theirs, it can speed up their decision making process) 4, If they fail to acknowledge the defect was present when the vehicle was built within the time stated or they fail to commit to carry out the repair to meet your reasonable expectations, state that you will make arrangement for the repair to be made elsewhere but you will seek to recover through legal means (Small claims court) ANY out of pocket expenses such as the cost of the repair, vehicle recovery services moving the vehicle to another repairer, time spent dealing with this issue at national minimum hourly wage rates, documented phone calls, costs of reasonable alternative transport arrangements made (bus, taxi, hire car, fuel@45p/mile and time of somebody else moving you about). Make a detailed record of your time and expenses accumilated whilst dealing with this since you presented the vehicle to them on day one of the failure. The more you detail, the more pressure you put on them to sort it out as they can see your costs are escalating. Don't get angry with them, it doesn't help. Be prepared to do what you state in writing to them otherwise they will not fulfil your expectations.