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Exactly the same reason why I've invested in sorting the rear suspension as not a chance of finding anything similar in Mk3 superb for the 25K I paid for mine when it was 3 months old with 3K on the clock back in early 2014 so biding my time and keeping the old girl running until I stumbled onto a bargain. WRT damper versus spring, they don't know what they are talking about! As long as you select a spring in the same chassis group you should be OK e.g. the same damper for my facelift car covers the full range from weight class 5 all the way up to weight class 14 so the standard damper would certainly be fine to cover jump from class 5 to 8 as suggested for you. It's not like you are buying an after market uprated spring, all these springs are standard factory fit . Yes, the uprated springs will be slightly stiffer but from my own experience the ride quality with a stiffer new spring and new damper is infinitely more comfortable than that with the knackered sagging old setup

Nine of the discussion here seems to address the question I’d ask: does the Enyaq come with “standard” or with “EV” tyres? See, for example,

Sound deadening made a big difference to the road/tyre noise, definitely recommend it! I bought a bulk pack of 40 sheets have about half of it left - that was after covering the whole boot floor and under the rear seats. I have just bought some 4mm foam to put on top of it to reduce it further. As I kept the stock backboxes there virtually no additional noise. The only sound comes from the decat once you floor it and even then its pleasant!

Today I have just picked up my car from VW-GROUP SPECIALISTS LTD in Swindon. They fitted a Helix performance clutch kit, AKS Sachs DMF, LUK slave cylinder and AKS braided line and billet bleed block. The line a bleed block to give the clutch a bit more of an OEM feel. Chris at VW said he felt the clutch had a 70% OEM feel to it. Got in the car and felt how heavy the new clutch was, not too heavy at all. He was right with the 70%. Gave it some gentle revs and as expected, there was a slight initial judder. That was with revs of around 1000 to 1400 revs. If you raise the revs to around 1800+ then gently raise the clutch, no judder at all. Again as I expected, I was told to run the clutch in for 200-500 miles, lots of gear changes he stated. I was surprised how soon I got used to the slightly heavier clutch, if fact after a few miles down the road it just felt as it always did. Can't push it yet with the torque on the new clutch, but getting shot of the old clutch slip will be great. Very happy so far, apart from of course that massive bill I have just paid.

I can continue to recommend the one I got, still going strong and a real bargain upgrade to the basic MIB1 I had.

With a small budget you might look at a compatible Android unit. Have a read of this thread:

All check your PMs. If you don't have a message then either I don't have SW for your unit or your unit is already running latest SW version

Enjoyed my first full week of ownership, 300 miles down and few thousand more to go!! just waiting for the 26gb map update to finish downloading, then that’s a job for tomorrow. No regrets from moving from Audi so far

Having long had a purchasing policy of buy brand new but buy cheap, we've continued the same way after relocating to Tenerife. Importing cars from the UK is expensive, second hand cars on the island are expensive, so a cheap new one was the way ahead. After researching the market in the Canaries, it seemed the likely choices were old stock i20 or Ibiza, or brand new C3 or Sandero. Having driven 3 of them already we tried the Sandero Stepway at our local UK Renault dealer. First thoughts it's a nice car, though the demo was the top of the range one. Modern inside and out, well equipped, and a good drive. The 1.0 triple is gruffer sounding than VWs, but seems to have better torque than my 110TSI. It's also a big car, 4 inches wider, longer and higher than a C3. Roomier than the other choices, and the interior matches SEAT/Skoda for quality and comfort, whist being much nicer than the 2020 Citroen/Hyundais. So, Mrs Spyyder chose the Sandero, but shortly afterwards I found out about the 5/6 month wait for one 😮 so I wasnt hopeful. Luckily, and unlike any UK dealers, the Tenerife/Gran Canaria agent had about a dozen in stock, so instead of ordering the lower spec one we were aiming for (and waiting forever), we spent a little more and grabbed a stock vehicle which was delivered 7 days later. Our bi-fuel car has an LPG system which improves the engine from OK to very nice. Smoother, quicker, cheaper to run and greener. In the UK theres no price premium for it either, so I wonder why anyone is buying the petrol . Is it really still cheap? Well the stripped out and slow 65PS Access was £7995 but Dacia UK have binned it. The range entry is now £8995, but again its only 65PS. You have to have the 90 or 100PS engine really so the Sandero in mid-spec now is more like a 10.5k car. The SUV-look Stepway is another 1k on top, but most seem to be buying the higher Comfort or Prestige models of that one, which whilst loaded can get up towards £15k. Ours is middle of the Stepway range, and only lacks blindspot warning and satnav options from the highest spec (but has Carplay/Android Auto so who needs integral nav?). These prices are for possibly the biggest supermini on the market, nearly the size of a Golf, and the price competition are mostly tiny citycars, or very basic editions of comparable hatches. It's still real value for money whatever you choose, but no longer old tech, this is based on the current Clio/Juke platform and is genuinely a modern car. I can see why its #1 in European sales, and I'm glad we beat the rush, as stocks in Spain are dwindling now too.

A H4 and H7 bulb are completely different! - A H7 has one filament and 2 connectors - A H4 has two filaments and 3 connectors

Doing an aircon service is a very profitable add on for a dealer, it is unlikely to need doing after a mere 24 months. If it was me I would decline. If it needs work done much better off at an a/c specialist as dealers charge fortune. There are many people on here who have never let anyone touch it, and it is still working fine after 8+ years. It is one of those things that the old saying if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it applies. Because as soon as you start fiddling things seem to go wrong.

The weight range 14 rear spring 3C0511115AJ on the Superb MK2 is called a weight range 9 rear spring on the VW Passat, and really should have been called a weight range 10 on the Superb MK2 because that is where it logically is. However, Skoda had already designated another spring weight range 10 so they couldn't do that...and this weight range 10 spring was logically only a weight range 6 spring...but Skoda had already designated another spring weight range 6... The VW Passat 2.0TDI 4x4 estate uses this rear spring according to gknautomotive.com rear axle | Skoda Superb 2011, suspension shock absorber (spring cyl.) rear combi (1) 3C0511115AJ coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark white lilac green Model data: PR-0YP http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/SUP/year/2011/drive_standart/632/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511001/part_id/2561497/lang/e rear axle | Volkswagen Passat/4Motion/Santana 2015, suspension shock absorbers rear fr.wheel drv (1) 3C0511115AJ coil spring 1 paint mark 1 paint mark 1 paint mark white lilac green Model data: PR-1JA+0YJ PR-1JL+0YJ PR-UA5+0YJ PR-UA6+0YJ PR-UC8+0YJ http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/PA/year/2015/drive_standart/702/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511000/part_id/0/lang/e

Another day at crail on Sunday. Trap speeds were down so seemed to be down on power but with full interior and no suspension changes it still did a 5.48 to 60mph and 13.680 @ 107mph my friends RX7

Correct, but there's no need to pay main stealer prices for an A/C service which will consist of draining the old refrigerant, leak testing the system if needed, and refilling with a known mass of refrigerant and oil.

Just swapped out my Yeti for an Enyaq IV 60, it was delivered on the 3rd Sept. Super happy with it so far.

This is the best video to give an idea of how easy it is, nothing scary in it, 99% plug & play bar one single wire to connect for FM booster

The consensus seems to be that the majority of UK and Irish cars with standard chassis have the rather soft weight range 6 springs fitted at the factory, I assume in an effort to better cope with the crap roads we have over here. Definitely worth confirming exactly what you currently have fitted, either by checking paint marks on the springs like chimeaera suggests or, if like me you are lazy and colour blind, sweet talking local Skoda parts department and asking them to quote for replacement of the standard parts and confirming the corresponding PR codes. You can then decide how far to upgrade the weight range. Given the amount of weight my car always carries (a minimum of 170kg in boot) I made the decision to go up 3 weight ranges to 9. Even with that increase the car still only sits 8mm too high on rear when empty apart from spare wheel (which only happened when it came back from having the work done) which is actually still within the factory tolerance of +/- 10mm. So in your situation where it sounds like you are looking to improve ride quality / clearance when empty rather than for load carrying capacity as I'd gone for, I'd be looking to stick with a spring in the same standard chassis range (as your G15 PR code for front suspension suggests) rather than going for heavy duty or higher chassis range (which in any case wouldn't be correct for your chassis and would likely throw out handling as would never be combined with the standard chassis setup you have on front) but go up 2 weight ranges to 8. I suspect that this means empty your car will sit a little above the design ride height (but well within the tolerances although I guarantee it will look odd as you will have grown accustomed to the stance with sagging rear suspension)) but when you do load up the boot or tow, you will still sit considerably higher than you currently do even when empty. With the prices you have been quoted, are they from a main dealer or independent? The labour for my complete swap (springs, dampers and all the single use bolts and replacements for all the plastic/rubber bits associated with springs and dampers) at main dealer was only smidge over 200 quid including VAT so the quoted labour for just the two springs isn't necessarily a bargain. Again, just my take on it but if you are planning to keep the car going for another year or two as I am, I would definitely consider also getting new standard dampers installed at the same time if the budget can run to it. The dampers were around 125 quid each and whilst yours won't obviously be as worn as mine having done 50K less even though couple of years older, in conjunction with the new springs I reckon it will make it feel like a new car again. And the last thing you want to do is spend 150 quid getting teh new springs fitted and then find that doesn't give the ride quality you'd hoped for and so then have to spend similar sum of labour again to fit new dampers.

Check your PMs

So here is the current situation from the dealer (which I think makes a lot of sense and is backed up by other posts on here). Build weeks seem to be confirmed for orders from July and back. It's likely that the car will be built broadly to schedule (with a slight delay). However, it will then sit "partially built" waiting for the al important semiconductors. This could be as little as a couple of weeks, or as long as 3 months. The truth is nobody knows. Add on delivery to this and realistically we are looking at 1-4 months AFTER the production date for delivery. I suspect this is why some orders later than July haven't yet been accepted by the factory as there is presumably only so much room/willingness to store the partially made cars.

Technically, as I understand it, the correct procedure is to prime the fuel pump using VCDS (or similar) when you change the fuel filter. Basically, the fuel pump is run for 30 seconds to fully pressurise or something, before starting the ignition. Failure to do this can, apparently, cause damage to the fuel pump and system. So if you have VCDS it would be sensible to follow that advise (you can find the steps to carry out the procedure with a quick Google or follow the Ross-Tech wiki http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Pump_Basic_Settings_for_PD,_PPD,_and_CR_TDI_Engines ). For what it's worth, I have changed the fuel filter in the past without using VCDS (before I knew the recommended procedure) and didn't run into any problems at all. But you pays your money and you makes your choices I guess.

Check the wiring from the CPS back to the ECU, your ECU will be using the cam position in lieu of a plausible signal from the CPS.

Check the wiring for continuity first, the loom gets fragile with age and vibration.

Mine has still got an "unconfirmed" build date in a couple of weeks. Suspect they are building batches dependent upon the specific trims and will only decide nearer the time.

It depends on the country (weather conditions). Here in Athens we have warm weather and traffic so for our car a thermostat 87'C and 80-85'C fan switch is fine. In Egypt the weather is similar to ours so why you go to the extreme with 80'C thermostat and 70-75'C fan switch?

I would say it's one of those things that can give some people peace of mind but won't make any difference in a normal situation. If there would be residue left wouldn't that mean you've been running all that crap through your fuel system AND the filter? I may be wrong!

June...... 🙁 1.0 TSi

It's a declarable modification. It will put extra stress on the wheel bearings.

They should be reported to your insurance company as a modification.

In my previous Octavia i had a similar issue and it was from the hazard / alarm switch. We replaced it and everything was fine since then until O sold the car.

in the end it didn't bother me, i tried to order another, another window download engine. managed to! physically the engines are the same, this one had according to the seller designation for the right front door, I do not understand why, when the number fits the left front (left-hand drive) the important thing is that it works. I still don't understand the given logic, I didn't change the coding after replacing the motorbike, it remained the original one in Slovak I wrote it as an article for a complete addition of rear electric windows, maybe it will help someone .... https://wirer.sk/f3_okna/ the problem is solved after a year and a half

Try jet washing the moss off and maybe the seals aren’t as bad as you think.

terrible shaky tired arm photo, but.. my first cycle that the street lights were still on in town when i got to the top... i even had to put the torch on the bike leaving the house..

Shes not bad, has had a stage 1 map according to paperwork but it's not the 230bhp the advert said it was, its had the deleted done and a ramair on it, to be honest other than those mods if there are any more including the coilovers I'm gonna remove them and fit better as it's all been done on a budget which I cant mean about as my old one was the same. I'm not keen on the Audi wheels either, looking for 18s. Zaf will be cared for correctly, it's already a rare version as it dont leak any oil lol, gonna keep both these cars just because their getting rare in good condition

yesterday got wrote off.. i was too knackered to get up. today was a heavy morning... but i made it out first morning ive needed to put the torch on the bike in months too! and first time needing it heading up the hilly roads. and i turns out i set a new best on one the hill climb sections... i didnt expect that!

In my experience most 'new' CR batteries push out about 3.4v and kessy fobs stop working as kessy fobs at around 3v.

I'd check what weight range the car has as standard, it's pretty common for UK/IE cars to get weight range 6 which tends to be too soft, especially with a towbar fitted. Mine has weight range 6 fitted, and even with new springs/dampers to that spec it sat 14 mm too low at the back. At that stage the helper springs from MAD were better value than replacing everything again. They brought the rear back up to where it should be and it rides and handles fine. It's not much work to pop the rear wheel off and see what colour the paint marks on the spring are, and we can figure out a (probably) better option from there.

You should fit springs and dampers as a matched set. I've cross-referenced all of the rear combinations in the pdf attached to the OP in this thread. If you're not sure what rear setup you currently have, take off one of the rear wheels and see what paint marks are on the spring. Each spring has a unique paint code that we can cross-reference to the part numbers and figure out what you might need to go up to from there. For the front, like for like is probably fine as the front axle load doesn't vary nearly as much as the rear between laden and unladen. Again, taking a wheel off and noting the paint marks at the front will identify what's fitted and that's easy to cross-reference to a part number.

Welcome. EDIT. Doh, sorry my stupidity. is it a 4x4 so with Haldex which should have been serviced even if only 25,000 miles and will have a DSG that needs Oil Changes @ 40,000 miles. or, Is it not a DQ200 DSG so a 7 Speed Twin Dry Clutch DSG, so no Oil Changes as recommended or shown as scheduled at 40,000 miles or anytime. A 2015 DQ200 DSG might be part of the Service Campaign (not Recall or Recall Action) which covers ones from 2013-2015. '34H5'. That was / is a Software Undate. A preventative measure because of possible Pressure / Heat issues and the premature demise of the MCU / leaks / cracks. (In the UK that started in 2017 so if the car / dsg is part of that it should have been done between then and now.) ? What is the service history, as in has it been on Fixed Annual Servicing or Variable and had 2 Services maybe even though only 25,000 miles done? Has it had the pollen filter changed recently, was the brake fluid changed at 3 years or 4 or even 5 years? What actually has it had done even with such a low mileage? ? Are the 4 tyres matching or at least matching pairs? What are the brake discs looking like, slight corrosion or more than slight? Prices are up from this on the Skoda Dealers Fixed Price Servicing and maintenance on 3-10 year old cars on Fixed Servicing at Participating Dealers. EDIT 2. I see @varaderoguy's link has the latest prices.

Snap same as mine

Let's start with the basics. What is the status of the battery? Think objectively.

Update: So was meant to having the Stage 3 tune done today, unfortuanately I got an email from the tuner yesterday afternoon saying that he needs to self isolate as his daughter is covid positive! Was frustrated yesterday as i had emailed in the morning asking if it was still on! sods law. Now rebooked in for the 18th! All parts/mod have now been fitted so will try to avoid driving the if possible. Installed the meth kit, wiring it took me 2 days as it was my first time doing this type of thing. Routing the wires wasnt too bad once i sussed which route to take! The mechanic did the plumbing for the meth pipe underneath the car and without telling drill a hole in the well as he said he did have enough pipe to go the pump! Also installed some 10mm spacers in and raised the ride height as on some speed bumps the exhaust scraped.

Well, there are 2 adjustments I know of on these distributors:- Points gap. This is set by measurement, using feeler gauges. A typical value (no promises this is right for Favorit/Forman would be 40 thousandths of an inch. This may well require a different set of gauges to that used for the tappets. Timing angle. This can be set statically by swinging the distributor body until the points close at the value in the manual. However, this is only good for getting the engine to run well enough to be able to get it hot. It's better to time the engine using a timing light which connects in the number 1 cylinder HT lead, or, if confident, by swinging the distributor body slowly until you achieve the fastest idle speed, then adjust the idle screw to slow it back down.

@R_Blue in Felicia, wiper switch can be pushed forward in two positions, first is rear wiper, second is wiper+washer. I'm not sure if it's same in the Favorit, as wiring is a bit different there.

I've got my car back after the service yesterday and they've replaced the bracket and calibrated the front assist so it's all back as it should be. They charged £60.00 for the initial diagnostic and £36.00 for replacing the bracket and the calibration, so it cost me a lot less than I thought it would.

A bit late, but I just joined Briskoda to find out how to change the air and cabin filters. Our daughter's 1.0 TSI is slightly different to the above, but easier in my opinion. 11 Torq T20 screws holding on the lid of the airbox. The two screws in the middle of the box are the same length as all of the others, so not possible to mess up. At five minutes, that has got to be the quickest air filter change I have ever done, including wiping around the box. The cabin filter was just as easy.

Unfortunately there is no newer SW version available for your unit. A solution MIGHT be to reflash your instruments cluster with newer SW however this does not always help.

I've bought a chinese multimedia box which lets you watch netflix, iplayer etc, play android games and use any other android apps you would like to install on it. for some reason on the enyaq you need to delete it from your bluetooth devices when you stop using it or there will be no audio next time you try to use it. Not a major issue as it detects it quickly the next time you plug it in to the USB port. Very handy if you're at a charger or (as I was here) waiting for someone.

I'm aware the mod for 30 colour pallet in the ambient lighting screen has been mentioned several times on the forum. TLDR: The RGB values used on available in the table at the bottom on my post. There was some rough guidance on RGB values, but I wanted to aim for an OEM+ look. I've taken some time build a colour pallet of 30 colours based on the original 10 that come as standard. Rather than attempting to join up the dots by looking at raw RGB values, I've built a gradient for the 10 RGB values from the originals. I then referenced 30 colours from the gradient and noted down the values. Below is the original screen values, the gradient, and the 30 colours picked out. The ambient lighting strip uses different colours values to the screen values, interesting though, the white value from the ambient light strip is actually a light green, but appears white on the strip. The original pallet prior to coding: The 30 colour pallet after coding. A massive thanks for @Ivan8192 for helping with the script, and allowing access to his VCDS again! and to @SashaGracefor piquing my interest into this mod. For anyone interested the RGB values are available below: Screen Ambient Strip Basic Colour Red Green Blue Basic Colour Red Green Blue White 217 221 233 White 120 231 71 229 205 161 163 221 49 241 190 88 205 211 26 Yellow 253 174 16 Yellow 247 202 4 254 155 18 234 167 2 254 135 34 208 128 3 Orange 253 115 50 Orange 183 89 5 251 85 52 189 60 5 247 51 47 215 40 4 Red 244 18 43 Red 241 20 3 244 19 73 255 27 17 247 59 142 255 65 49 Lilac 251 100 212 Lilac 255 105 82 232 109 243 244 134 112 197 98 247 196 136 136 Magenta 163 86 251 Magenta 149 138 160 129 77 255 104 139 183 87 85 255 70 130 207 Blue 45 93 255 Blue 37 121 229 5 101 255 4 111 251 0 127 255 8 142 226 Cyan 1 156 255 Cyan 17 179 194 1 184 255 26 215 162 1 194 214 35 229 120 Green 0 197 157 Green 45 236 73 0 200 99 54 242 27 30 210 70 58 228 3 Lemon 88 227 65 Lemon 58 196 2 145 244 60 57 163 1 182 255 57 57 132 0

That screen to map out the steering controls is identical to that on mine. If you did want to add DAB to it by the way then I can highly recommend the rear amplifier and splitter option. The Octavia estate has the additional glass aerial in the rear window. The signal is sent to the front and combined to boost the signal. The stock amplifier filter out DAB signals and only boosts FM/AM. You can swap out the amplifier for a DAB one and run a new cable to the front. Or do as I have and swap for a passive and fit a splitter/amplifier behind the stereo. I used the kit Alpine KAE-DAB1G6 (Alpine KAE-DAB1G7 is for Golf 7 and Octavia MK3 I think). This option also saves running any new cables to the front. The only hiccup I hit was that the +12v ANT connection from the stereo doesn't actually output anything. So took me a bit of head scratching wondering why the signal was so bad (the amplifier obviously wasn't getting any power). Full DAB signal and crystal clear. Only had one very short drop while stopped at a red light between some tall buildings. But no drop in sound.

What is the specification and OEM part number of the alloy rim? These details are cast into the back of the alloy rim. It could look something like 6Jx14 ET43 and 6Y0601025 7ZS