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I eventually had a chat here a la frog with an independant , ancient, VW specialist, he said it was the sensor and just to replace it, found one on ebay for about £30. replaced it and as they say that solved the problem, took about 10 mins in total! General view is that they should be good for about 80k-100k, mine failed at about 35-36k, No subsequent probs.

low 20's around town, maybe a bit more if it gets time to warm up. Mid 30's on any kind of run, maybe 40 if I am gentle. Towing a 6'9" to the roofline 5' wide flat front box trailer knocks 6-9mpg off dependant on speed. Remember Skoda like you to use Super Unleaded in a 280 so factor that in to your pounds/mile calcs. With prices like they are, and a 66 litre tank, I managed my first ever £100 fill up the other day. But if you are buying a 280 for economy, you probably shouldn't.

Surely if you drive the 280 it should be SPG (smiles per gallon) measured?

That's how my custom box looks on the NX RS...

At a good speed too, that fields very hilly and because it doesnt have much power I got to gunning it going downhill and putting it into a slide to carry as much speed as I could when I looped around to go back up it. It was a while ago but I think I was going about 50mph when I hit the drinker. More or less I was in a slide, hit the drinker head on, sent it flying and spun out. Not really, that field hadnt been used in a long time and the drinker was covered over by grass and weeds. I had a loop made for myself and I guess I kept slowly working my way inwards over time. You can sorta see the dirt track I'd carved out, was particularly thick with weeds near the middle of the field conveniently hiding this wacking big drinker under it.

Big concrete cattle drinker

@ DieselMonte: I've just been looking at your project thread. How did you manage to crash your car in a field?

My rear beam is exactly the same with the two 'ears' and my car is just a 1.4mpi. Maybe the rear beam is universal to be able to take rear discs.

This is a fairly well known failure of the window regulator. It affects manual windows as well as electric ones.

1. Check for leaks from the rear door ancillaries carriers. Most obvious by small puddles on the horizontal section of the seal in the doorway when you open a rear door after rainfall. Check front doors for similar puddles, but it's usually the rears. 2. There's a relay called the X contact relief relay which powers the fuse for the cabin fan; it also powers front (if fitted) and rear fog lights, so try to see if the fan non-function correlates with fog lights not working, and vice-versa. If it does, you may have a dirty/worn contact on the relay; it's in position 11 on the relay panel near the steering wheel.

VID-20211210-WA0004.mp4

Replaced this crumbly rear hatch release handle/button with a new one. Got it off Aliexpress. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001286216876.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.41814c4d21lbKv Plus delivery and taxes, came to a "convenient" £14.99 or so. Ordered 27th November, arrived 14th December. Quality wise it's identical to the one that came off. Casing shape, potting of wiring etc. A little cheaper than some on eBay and far cheaper than genuine Skoda parts on eBay. Used HatBoyHarvey's Youtube videos on removing/refitting the trim and removing/fitting the handle. Find or make a pry tool. I used a breaker/nail puller wrapped in cardboard. One very minor foible, the connector wiring (handle side) was zip-tied to the main loom, so a small cutter pliers was needed to free it. A not so minor foible was trying to realign all those blasted steel spring clips to put the trim back on the hatch. It looked impossible so I just started whacking them in. Somehow, once a few were in, they all started behaving.

I'm glad my days of driving for smiles is over 😉 These fuel economies would make me cry.

Is it this unit? and if so, have you lost the little clip here? The bad news is, if it's been coming loose, and has now gone to the floor, it's probably not worth refitting it in the light unit. You might be able to relocate it. Can't see that clip being listed as a spare.

Are they telling you front or rear? Analysis on your description or actually driving? Front or back? Having done both myself there will be a massive difference in cost depending which end! That have the tooling to change bearings if front, as specific tooling is required - cannot be just pressed to position. There needs to be a few questions answered for a real analysis to take place:- 1/ You have had the car since Feb so assume you have driven on roads where you are noticing this, is the noise recent or has it always been there, 2/ Generally a wheel bearing would not be limited to road surface types - is the noise always there. 3/ Are the tyres as fitted when you bought the car, while wear may change any noise would not expect them to cause so much concern. 4/ If tyres are a concern have you considered swapping front to back. 5/ Generally wheel bearings give a whirring noise that increases with speed. Is this the case as sound clip not really clear. 6/ You mention applying brakes at 7 seconds - does sound change volume, tone etc

Skoda have history here, they've done it for years, as I'm sure other manufacturers do too. For launch they stuff the vehicles full with features and innovation, the Kodiaq was no exception being their first 7-seater SUV. Then as the product passes through its typical life cycle, cost savings are implemented. This doesn't mean the product doesn't improve, or benefit from additional features not available at launch, but it can often result in what some might see as penny-pinching. It all depends on how you perceive certain aspects of your vehicle. For some it matters, especially those moving from one to another but it could be argued that those new owners who have no experience of the older versions are less likely to notice. Perhaps Skoda are less interested in loyalty / returning customers than they are of attracting new customers and taking market share? This was the list of changes to the Kodiaq a few years ago (MY19 to MY20 I think), there have been plenty of others before and no doubt after... Removal of door safety lights, now replaced with reflectors Removal of passenger side footwell net Removal of chrome on window switches Removal of rear door sill plates Removal of net program in boot Removal of removable flashlight in boot Removal of seat rail covers Footwell lighting no longer standard, now only included with ambient lighting package Exterior mirror lighting is now only available with electric memory front seats Interior rear-view mirror now always black instead of headliner colour 5 seater: two bag hooks instead of four 7 seater with spare wheel: removal of cover under loading floor Sleep Package: One blanket now included instead of two Umbrella: only one included instead of two SportLine/vRS: rear badges now black SportLine: air vent frames now black instead of chrome vRS/L&K/Scout: Removal of logos on rear seat rows

Yes in the end I think it would be easier to put a set of coilovers, I saw some of them for 250ish euros on ebay. Don’t know why I havent looked at this possibility before. I had in mind that coilovers were not confortable. I guess it can’t be worse than lowered springs on sport shocks, since I don’t want to lower it that much. For a full replacement with shocks, springs and everything it was around 400€, and that was with « basic » parts. So it may even be cheaper that way.

I think you have crossed over LHD and RHD. In the UK we drive on the Left in Right Hand Drive vehicles, in Europe they drive on the Right in Left Hand Drive vehicles.

Fixed that for you 😂😂😂

Look for broken wire(s) in the rubber boot between doors and a-pillars. A thin grey/white wire would be the prime suspect.

https://thedriven.io/2021.08/02/volkswagen-forges-new-jv-to-avoid-repeat-of-id-3-software-problems https://www.teslarati.com/volkswagen-software-issues-id-3 $9Billion is Just a drop in the ocean & a 2019 figure on what THEY ARE TO SPEND, which is nothing compared to what VW group paid in fines for the software that they had developed and that they bought in previously to have the Defeat Devices they wanted. Contractors do leave VW Group because they are always trying to screw down the costs of everything. (VW dumped chip suppiiers quicker than others and they were already demanding cheaper than other manufacturers and the chip suppliers started supplying others quicker when the demand picked up. Vorsprung Durch Technik. VW Needs to learn to stop taking the pith with New Technology as it advances.) VW Group will actually blame the software developers and providers for illegal ECU's / Software where it was them that bought it in and used it having been made aware that it was illegal. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/01/business/bosch-vw-diesel-settlement.html https://www.dw.com/en//bosch-pays-90-million-euro-fine-over-diesel-scandal/a-48843405 VW group get left in the lurch often with component shortages even like with interiors and materials as they say they punt suppliers but the truth is suppliers abandon VW Group. VW Group do drop suppliers after they have had them increase staff and production and want them to be the supplier for VW and not others, then try screwing down the costs and profits of the suppliers while VW Group can increase their profits. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-volkswagen-production-idUSKCN10S2BR Software development is expensive you have to poach the best people from other companies, and the best developers have been at it a long time and can have errors and faults and losses, VW Group have a long way to go until they get to be up there with the people that can do things right. Lots of the best Engineers & Developers, designers etc will not work for VW Group because like with the Deafeat Devices they will blame Minions and the top people the Engineers Engineers that know everything know nothing and do not go to jail and Engineer or 2 do, selectively deaf dumb and blind in the Board Rooms. The issue is that any software errors and coc-kups can be a risk, but VW Groups are in Vehicles. Vehicles driving on roads with humans in them and around them. From the first link. Hits the nail on the head!

I was going to say be better off just going for an all round set of coilovers you can pick up some decent sets for around £250 and when you way that up against new shocks and springs front and rear plus pump stops and fixings provs not any difference price wise.

They achieved 480bhp at 2.0bar with 410lbsft.

For what it's worth... anyone who is ordering a new Kodiaq (or other car that has the option) and wants to use a dash cam really should get the USB-C socket in the mirror housing. It's charge only, ignition switched, and solves all these issues and more in one go. Can't recommend it enough. Now they just need to provide a similar socket at the top of the tailgate for rear cameras...

Hi all, I've had my MK1 fabia for a couple of months now and put 6k kilometers on it. She's lovely, and mechanically perfect. There are some issues creeping up since the past few weeks, they are strange and I wonder if they could be related. 1. There is moisture on the windshield on the inside. And it's quite a lot, enough for me to need a towel to dry it. 2. The interior fan rarely works. It broke 2 weeks ago on a return trip (the way there it worked) but on return it didn't turn on. I say rarely, because on on the last trip after we where driving back (1,5 hour trip) it turned on after 2/3 of the way. Today i checked and it was off again. I've checked the fuses and they seem fine. The airco light also does not turn on if the fan doesn't work. When the fan came on, the airco worked again as well. I know it isn't the motor, because I leave it on full blast since the heat passively comes from the engine and the motor kicked on last trip. It could be some loose connection but I don't know where to look. 3. The drivers window fell in the door. On a recent trip, after trying to close the driver's window (fan doesn't work), the glass of the door made a strange noise and fell in frame off the rails. I pulled it up by hand and taped it to the frame as a temporary measure I have electric windows, so my guess is that it jumped of the gear or something. Is this a common issue, can I fix this myself? I have replaced the speakers, but I made sure that nothing could touch the glass. I did notice that some of the rivets inside where missing, I'm guessing someone messed with it before. Wondering if I can fix this myself. All these issues occured in the last few weeks. Margreet (as she is called) has had some quirks before, but they've been there since I bought it. Like the keyfob sometimes unlocks all the doors, except the drivers door, or the beep letting you know that the headlights are on sometimes doesn't work either. I've taken these for granted since she's 15 years old but the 3 problems mentioned above actually cause me to worry a bit. I want to work on these issues myself where possible and learn, and hope some of you can guide me a little bit on the way. Kind regards, Wessel!

I wouldn't convert, I'd rather have drums for the stronger handbrake, rear discs do so little work they always rot out but RICErs will be RICErs...

Thanks for the suggestions, I will get the chance for a proper look this weekend. I have noticed that the rubber trim where the A pillar cover meets the edge of the scuttle cover are missing, they look like they have been torn off - I need to look at our other Yeti closely to see if this is significant. I'll take some photos to illustrate. In the meantime I have some Gorilla waterproof tape in situ protecting the bottom of the screen.

Etc is the offset and dictates how far the wheel sits into the arch. You need to know the wheel width too. Usually the wheel will have marking like "8j18et47" which states the rim is 8 inches wide, 18 inches diameter and 47mm inset from the face of the bolt surface. Then you need tyres to match. 235/45r18 is a standard size for superb.

Were there to be another cause then pointing it out would not be worming out of their responsabilities.

I gave the discount tac I found in a drawer a try and stuck alright. Did my first little drive and so far so good. Many thanks again.

It does very much depend on your mileage and your typical driving journeys. I would argue you are only doing 8500 miles a year which £1400 a year in petrol at 40mpg about 16p mile £564 a year in petrol doing 100mpg is about 7p a mile. Some people have reported 75mpg average in an IV but maybe you do more. So if you are generous you are saving maybe £900 a year in fuel. Not including the price the charge the battery overnight. A petrol VRS is about £5k less than the iV version so it’ll be at least 5.5 years to make that cost up, actually a lot more if you include electric cost. So it’s difficult to argue it’s cheaper, but if you have individual reasons why you need the iV electric only mode (congestion charge?) then it might be worthwhile. I certainly wouldn’t be ordering a hybrid if it wasn’t massively advantageous in BIK payments. I’d either have full ICE or full electric.

I've had an email from EBC about why they make different brake pads for the rear 300mm and 310mm brakes on the Superb MK3. Apparently, although ATE make the same brake pads to fit either size of rear brake discs, when EBC made their aftermarket copies they purchased OEM Skoda rear brake pads...and they were slightly different from each other. So EBC copied both. EBC say that you are likely to be able to use either DPX2153 or DPX2173 rear brake pads if you are using new discs. But if your discs are used, it will be best to use the same pads that you are replacing (or at least have the friction material in the same place) because the friction material on the pads is likely to have worn an ever so slightly different track on the discs. I think it is for this reason that some people have had problems (possibly vibration) with various cars when they fit new but different pads to used/worn discs, ie. there can be problems if the friction material on the new pads is in an ever so slightly different position to the friction material on the old pads. In making different rear brake pads for the 300mm and 310mm rear discs, EBC appears to be the exception rather than the rule, as most brands make the same rear brake pads to fit both the 300mm and 310mm sizes. These brands include ATE, Bosch, Brembo, Ferodo, Hella/Pagid, Jurid, Optimal, Textar, and TRW. So out of these ten brands, it's only EBC that makes different rear brake pads for the 300mm and 310mm rear discs.

Heard a true story from a mechanic yesterday about a guy with an Audi who had a new battery fitted after a couple of years owning the car. He brought the car back because he thought there was something wrong with his seats which were moving weirdly. Turns out he had wrap around seats which he didn't know about and which only started working after the new battery was fitted. No logic there.

New battery fitted by Halfords. I would normally do this, but as they recode the battery at fitting it made sense. One more thing to cross off my list of things I have always done. All now good and alternator charging fine. Thanks for your help everyone. Lots lessons learnt. @nta16I am calibrated every day by my wife 😄

I know the bit you mean, it is part of the light cluster assembly and I very much doubt you can get that bit unless you can find a broken light cluster at a scrapyard and take it from that - or find a similar bit of spring metal. Or pad out the locating peg on the car - item 16 securing pin in the parts link - personally and this is not a joke I would try bluetac or whitetac, once left it has extremely strong holding power and I mean extremely strong but you can stretch it off - like those reusable wall hooks (can't think of the name) they must similar stuff. I have had bluetac hold an external badge on my car for about ten years, hold up a broken metal captive cage fitting and gear lever knob shift numbers badge for about 5 years. The holding of the rear light unit is another bloody silly design along with wheel bolts instead of wheel studs, German engineering indeed.

The crank sensor would explain the difficult starting, but you still have looming lambda probe issues. I would delete all codes after saving a copy of your scan, run for few days, then rescan to see what returns. Some of the codes when deleted have to complete several duty cycles (read start/stop with the ignition key) before they will return, but defective safety items will return immediately. What fault code did the crank sensor return and its description, as the code will divide into defective or intermitent?. Having said that, if it was showing defective I wouldn't expect the car to start at all. Does your VCDS lead and version allow you to do data logging or it VCDS lite with an aftermarket cable?.

Thank you #roottoot and #lol-lol for the replies. The police is involved, I am not sure how much they are prepared to do. After all it is not just a report for criminal damage against someone anonymous. I am not sure where the stalking part comes into all of this now. After an accident the parties involved normally stay to exchange details. #J.R. just to clarify for you. A 1.5 ton 2m wide car came driving towards ME in MY lane,not my bike towards him. While I touched his beloved car - flipping in his mirror as my handguard and mirror were almost touching anyway -, but did not cause any damage to his car, he broke off my mirror causing damage worth about £350. He might just have wanted to flip mirror, but that went quite wrong - out of stupidity or other. If you see enough justification in this to damage property, we will absolve this great soul as it is christmas

Just been charged for Part number GJZWO 15M2 Screenwash which is a 1LTR bottle on my service, I filled up the washer bottle up to the neck night before ? Skoda dealer.

Yep, i'm thinking that it's got a dodgy solder joint or bad trace rather than a battery issue (the same battery has now been powering the spare key for the past 5 days). I'm going to have another go at trying to get the key apart (going to heat it gently first to see if it'll soften the adhesive they've used), and will have a good look over it for any broken joints - even if not, it'll give me access to the transponder chip and may be able to transplant that into another key (and then just reprogram the remote). I could program keys for my Focus with the Forscan software, and did so (a fob for my own car, and another key/remote combo for my folks when they lost one of their keys!) I'll keep you guys updated!

Welcome to the community!

VAG say there is currently NO fix for the adaptive cruise problem. Mine has been in recently for all the available updates but nothing for the cruise. First motorway journey after updates it braked for EVERY car I tried to pass on the return journey NONE. It's much worse being inconsistent as you never know which way it's going to go.

Yesterday Sunny South Ayrshire.

By then the event has already happened and the vehicle following too close behind gets an awful amount closer or someone panics because they see your brake lights. Even if you learn this instinctively how about when your wife is, for the first time, experiencing this. Skoda have no excuse but perhaps the solution is for a rear end accident to happen and the innocent driver to be prosecuted for brake checking a vehicle carrying a dash cam when in fact the car got frightened. Maybe then Skoda will take this seriously. To be fair to Skoda and their rotten software I also experienced this on a Toyota. So much for self-driving cars eh?

You can turn the pipe from the egr that goes into these to stop this happening again Here is a well explained How To from the forum

Ok - I may be jinxing this but... the boot has been dry the last few days!! Touch wood we may have a result courtesy of @silver1011

You can now configure the new Karoq at Trimline (skoda-auto.com) Skoda UK will no doubt offer their own trim levels, but the webpage shows the features they can off as standard or as options. Note that Candy White, Emerald Green, Quartz Grey and Race Blue have been discontinued, but Phoenix Orange and Graphite Grey have been added. Chris

High beam assist was not a factory item (standard or option) on this model (Fabia 2).

Thanks. Both switches are in the same item, the outer two thicker wires go to the normally open switch that does the three brake lights, with a (permanently 12V) fuse and the bulbs as the rest of the circuit, plus a connection between output of switch and engine ECU, possibly for bulb monitoring? The inner, thinner wires go to the normally closed switch (fed from a fuse with ignition switched 12V) that goes to the engine ECU as a direct 'pedal pressed' monitor.

The vehicle will consume less than 30ma, probably less than 20ma once it has gone into sleep mode. What probably happened is that the current drawn by the dashcam prevented the other systems from shutting down and the current draw would have been even more than you think. You cannot use the entire theoretical battery ampere hour capacity, using only 15-20% of it will drop the voltage so low (10.5v) that if the vehicle were even to start (unlikely) the battery would be permanently damaged. I thought you said there were no accessories on the vehicle? Glad that you got to the bottom of it though.