Leaderboard

400 mile round trip today to pick up our vRS TDI from Derek Slack Motors in Middlesbrough. First a big shout out to their sales manager Andy, a top guy, super easy to deal with and described the car perfectly and honestly (a big thing when buying remotely). So far really impressed with the car, drives better than I was expecting it to, certainly better than a 2l diesel estate has any right to! It’s a decent spec without being crazy: Candy White Black Pack+ Dynamic Chassis Control Canton audio Power tailgate No pics other than dealer’s as it’s now filthy, bath time tomorrow!

That is for Run flat tyres. Although you rearly see this. Air is 78% Nitrogen already. Don't waste your money paying to have just Nitrogen filled in your tyres. Thanks, AG Falco

Third time lucky - phew!: If they were leagues I could've started looking for the Nautilus 😁 Gaz

Made a move and got a disc rear axle, not from a newer ibiza like I had wanted but from a mk1 vRS instead. Had to clean it off, pretty crusty but was going mad trying to find anything else. Scuffed some of the easier to reach bits down. Soaked the beam in rust remover before I left. And got the calipers and discs off, they came off much easier than I thought they would. Wheel bearings are smooth as butter so not going to change them. Left carriers on as the bolts on them are very crusty, so they're soaking in wd40 overnight. Brake shields are pretty crusty and it looks like I can't get them off without pulling the wheel bearings. One of the calipers has a perished boot so I'll need to order a refurb kit for them. Have rear beam bushes, discs, pads, handbrake cables, etc got so don't really have much more to order.

Any electrical misbehaviour may well relate to that dodgy earth cable/connection going to the strut top.

Thanks. My Grampa used some other adhesive in conjunction with the jubilee clip so I'll see how it is.

Okay, so if you've seen the 'Annoyed' thread then you'll know that my screenwash pipe had once again disconnected. Last time it did this it had sheared off so was epoxied back into place. Good news! The epoxy stayed put... bad news... the pipe didn't. Anyway, we removed the epoxy, to be left with this... Also, just as a tip, remove the wheel and then the arch liner before doing this job. I took the opportunity to take the loose mud off of mine as well. Getting the liner back on had to be worst part of the job for sure. I now have a rear washer jet again, so not all is bad. The electrics also seem better today, which is a nice touch. Battery could do with a long run or a good charge, so will wait and see what that entails (Stirling and back, perhaps?)

This thread wasn't meant to be about EVs and the benefits and problems with them, but I'll say this. I recently worked with two people with EVs. One with a Tesla X (claimed 360 range) and one with a Kia Soul (claimed 280 range). Neither car gets anywhere close to these figures in real world driving, easily lose 100 miles of range in cold weather with all the electrics running (which, if you buy a nice car with heated seats, aircon, big sound hifi etc you want to use in the many hours we spend in our cars). In fact, the X model was very disappointing. The build quality is atrocious! The panel fitting was done by a bunch of drunken Lego enthusiasts, whilst wearing blindfolds and the interior leather was stretched terribly. Anyhoo both these cars had to be taken off site during the day and the owners drove around Hartlepool looking for a charge point so they could get home (between 01:00 and 03:00hrs) depending on which driveryou are talking about). They were fortunate that the specific jobs they did on that day, allowed them time to do this, it is not usually the case. Otherwise, they would have had to stop at a service station, probably on the way home and incur the inflated prices therein. I passed them on the motorway on their way home, as they also chose a distinctly slow cruising speed to maximise their range. Interestingly, the Kia spent most of the first few months of its life at the dealers owing to repeated faults. So far I am not impressed with EVs and I don't believe they are as ethically green as they claim. Don't get me wrong, I realise they are greener than combustion cars, but in the 'real world' they are not the streets ahead they say. I don't include the sort of cars I like in this, as they are not particular green cars (my 130TC Strada added 0.08% of the petrol fumes in the planet's atmosphere all on its own). I have not posted on here for a few days, because I've been working very long days and driving home in the depths of the night, occasionally getting home around 02:00 before setting off early the next morning for the next job. I'm not entirely sure if I could home charge a long range EV fully in the time available, on the odd occasion where I have a very short turnaround. As it happens this week, very late at night, I simply drove to the petrol station near where I live, handed over a promissory note for my internal organs and filled the tank. Filling a car every day is obviously expensive, but it means I didn't need to find a hotel at stupid o'clock in the morning and I could get home, pop my wet weather gear into a tumble drier if needed, make myself some lunch for the next job etc etc. I started this thread as I am considering a Hybrid. See I don't dislike electric motors EVs simply don't work for my lifestyle. Perhaps in 8 years or so when I retire, they will be fine, I certainly expect them to be. Please start another thread though if you guys want to talk about EVs. Lets keep this one to Hybriddiddys Ta

I like the idea of the technology and if hydrogen was to be used in an I.C.E. it would keep my petrolhead heart alive.

This is the problem with these old cars, the plastics are becoming brittle with age.

Haven’t gotten as much done this week as I had hoped…. Had a heart monitor that I’ve gotta wear for the next 12 > 36 months inserted under my skin on Monday, which was a very weird experience, and was my wedding anniversary on Wednesday. I was very lucky to be trawling Brisky back on the 24th February when a very nice bloke started a thread asking what was the interior from the low mileage Fabia vRS he had just bought his son was worth. These types of threads usually end up as the OP trying to sell their bits without Freedom membership. However, after exchanging messages with @Owainsdad it was clear he wasn’t trying to sell them, he just wanted them to go to a good home as he had managed to pick up an SE interior from elsewhere. What a top bloke After sending me the link to the car he had just bought, I could not only see just how to today they looked, I also spied heated seat controls on the centre console ….. what an unexpected surprise! I was initially settled on removing the seat covers from the new seats and sticking them in the washing machine, then put the new, clean covers on my heated seats, but no need! I popped over to Newport last Saturday and on initial inspection these were in amazing nic, which was as hoped given they came from a 60k car! No tears, fag burns etc in any of the seats, just grubby with the odd darker marks The faces of the rear bench are possibly a little more stained than my current rear seats, but the centre seatbelt has a habit of playing up just before MOT time ….. But it’s the fronts that I need! As you can see, just a bit of work needed to clean them up…. Most importantly; no tear in the drivers seat All I need to do is swap over the seat belts from mine and re-attach the heated seat plugs as these used to have the OEM under seat CD changer that has been removed, so the plugs are just dangling around. Like most, the front door carriers have clearly been leaking on the car these came from ….. ….. I’ll sort the runners out before I install. On Thursday I made a start to the strip down and clean. Having done this many times, I was pretty confident that I could get these pretty much brand new. Plastic trim all removed and ready for a decent clean…. This was nice and easy; removed the several T15 torx screws from underneath, remove the two T15 torx screws from the height adjuster and pull off, then prize off the recliner wheel. Simples When I’ve Vax’d my interior before I used Scotch Guard, scrubbed in with a microfibre then used some Vax carpet cleaner solution to wet-vac the seats. However, I’ve run out of scotch guard and only had some AG interior shampoo to hand. I started to clean up the front headrests To my frustration, despite the addition of the Flash all purpose cleaner to try and get out these grubby marks, they’re not coming out as well as I hoped 😞 Maybe I’m using less of the Vax carpet cleaning solution, maybe the AG shampoo is not as great as people make out. I dunno. So. As a last resort, I brought home some neat Autosmart G101 all purpose cleaner from work yesterday, which is the ****z, and currently waiting for the headrests to dry out to see if they’re any better. The last resort is to remove all the covers and put them in the washing machine as I really want these to be perfect before I put on the Dodo Juice fabric protector and the new seat cover that I’ve bought in an effort to keep them mint! This all seems like a lot of effort, but I can’t stand looking inside my car at the minute

You can get generic units like this, but like the advert says you only get the following functions retained "It Comes With Canbus Adapter and Pre-installed CarInfo app which instead of OBD2, Support Steering Wheel Control,Air conditional display,Radar/Parking Sensor and Door Information display." Youre gonna loose all your vehicle settings menu, service indicator, driver assistance menu, if you have canton or virtual cockpit will make both of them not function. Basically youre loosing a lot more than youll gain

Edit inline, bold.

Hello hello Thought I'd make a thread here documenting my pickups restoration to former glory. Plans Swap broken AEF Engine to AHU, retaining stock gearbox Hopefully I don't smoke the box, if so it'll be upgraded to something more withstanding Replace Hydraulic Power Steering with its modern electronic counterpart from a mk5/6 golf Save complexity with hydro power steering, feels better, no fluid - will write a guide once installed. The previous owner swapped it to a VW Caddy, these will be gone and back to Skoda (I'll keep hold of them for VW events with free entry though ) Welding, the strut towers need a bit of welding, the sills seem ok but kinda crumble when I jack it up, this will be sorted. Windscreen leak, thankfully it was stored inside but now it lives outside this needs addressing. Interior fuse box has some corrision on the contactors, works fine but will be cleaned up and end up replaced. Run 240v out to the bed, these a lovely void space between the skin and the bed of the truck so I'll be running electrics in there. I'm considering putting a roll bar over the top of the cab, this I can mount a lightbar directly to it and if the truck rolls it'll be on the bar and not me 👀 Raise by 3-5mm, potentially swap out hubs to 5x100 MOT!!!! Those are my short to medium term plans, the end form for the truck was originally going to involve a DSG box & Haldex however with the way the worlds going it'll probally just be a tame clutchless EV swap running on whichever gearbox is in at the time.

No Kodiaq has ever been fitted with a dry clutch. I believe some versions of the Karoq did have the DQ200 dry clutch at some point, but not the Kodiaq.

The heating mat is a separate part to the leather cover. Replacing the heating mat (which also contains the temperature sensor for the controller) means removing the cover first. Refitting it needs some special upholstery pliers and a supply of hog rings.

Aye, I'm thinking that too. There's another earth which runs down to a connection beside the PAS pump as a backup in case that one doesn't work or whatever. My electric window issue has disappeared so not sure if it's doing what the Punto used to and the damp has gotten to it somewhat.

You can always run a long cable tie side to side across both outlets on the pump. It doesn't need to be so tight as to break the connectors but should stop the popping off. If it needs to be held in position itself then use another at right angles to it round the pipe connectors... Sort of like... +---+

She’s alive IMG_1385.MOV

Heated seat failure is usually worn out element but you should get underneath and make sure all connectors are making a good fitment Check for voltage at the pins Here is a video of checking and strip down And am sure its stitched into the leather so need to get complete cover I would be getting an aftermarket heat element from ebay and flinging that in Get a full set of glow plugs if 1 has failed they have all done the same mileage And you will need a AGM battery as its stop start and its advisable to get it re-coded to the car so the smart charging charges at full rate

I got some good news yesterday. My car left the factory. At least there are cars en route to Ireland right now even with all of the supply problems and the terrible situation in Ukraine. Hopefully you folks get good news soon.

The car has been running fine since the sensor was changed so that's a bonus. I've also noticed that the fuel economy has improved since, even on cold mornings. My usual commute would give me just over 30mpg when the temp was around 5 degrees Celsius. Since replacing the sensor with a genuine version, it is now around 34 to 36 mpg over the course of the working week. I did a slightly longer run today and was quite pleased to see the numbers on the trip computer were back to where I expected them to be. I'd been dipping into the high twenties over a tank which was annoying, especially as I was trying to be careful. Today's Fuelly fill up said the car had averaged 38.29mpg over 190 miles. Admittedly the ambient temperature was 11 degrees but even so, that's much better. The 190 miles had been a mixture of two long runs of 60 miles and the rest was stop-start traffic. As you can see, there's a theoretical 545 miles from the tank according to the trip computer. Don't worry about me driving and taking pictures either, the Mrs was the photographer. I also turn the traction control off every time I drive the car as I find my right foot is safer than the on/off system the car uses by default. Just after filling up, the computer thought I'd be able to get a whopping 580 miles out of a tank if I kept driving in the same manner as I had for the previous hour and a half. The trip reading for the journey today was reading 47.8 just before I filled up. I know nobody buys a Stage 2 vRS for the fuel economy but it's interesting to see what can be achieved if it's driven carefully.

. Added abit more heat protection for the clutch feed pipe as it’s abit close to the downpipe. Also *Downpipe on *Rest of exhaust mated and aligned *New gearbox Mount *Oil and Filter changed *Mounts torqued up

ARB drop link would be the first thing I would check. Thanks, AG Falco

Got 2 pics from Briskoda archive for LED bulbs. Mine has got the same bulbs bought from AliExpress. Stock bulbs are not so bright, use the LED ones since 3 years with no issue. Also check this link: Credit: @Rsrob

Hello Dale Apart from all the sensible checks, there's really not too much to look out for. I had a 220 and loved it. If I were looking now, I'd be very picky about stone chips and alloy damage if they're diamond faced. Service history is important, making sure all that should have happened has, including a DSG service at 40k miles if you're not going for a manual. A spare wheel instead of gunk, and heated seats would be things I'd be looking for. Have a good rummage in the Octavia III forum as there are a few things that recur, which aren't in themselves deal breakers. Some people, myself included had front doors that retained water until the seals were either replaced or perforated. Sawtoothing on the rear tyres comes up from time to time. And on that point, a car with a matching set of good tyres (or at least axle sets) is likely to be a better bet than one with four different ditch finders, but I'm sure you knew that anyway. Happy vRS hunting 😁 Gaz

6th gear is purely a cruising gear I would think so what are you asking the car to do in that gear? If you need to accelerate I feel a change down to a lower gear might help.

Thanks, I read Stuartv's posting. Interesting but inconsistent treatment of say Software version 0270 vv 0276. The new USB arrives tomorrow so I'll get started on the update after it arrives.

Thank you Pete, that is a very plausible explanation. Because of this design, it may be a good reason why the cog broke of internally even when I carefully cleaned the flaps; to much stress already in 21 years. Before I removed the V154, everything worked perfectly without any strange sounds. The only difference was that I now heard it engaging every time when I turned on the contact. So by your old posts and other video's on YouTube, I expected to find a dirty pot in the V154 that would be issue... which was not there. The motor normally draws 16ma> 20ma. But when you hold the cogs down, it increases to 30ma > 40ma. So I try to do the same next week in the car and see if it stops a.s.a.p. Some pics attached for extra info and will update my findings later on.

Yes you have to leave the navigation screen open and I think you shouldn't actually use the navigation process either until the download is complete. There is another posting on here giving other people's experiences (Stuartv's ''MIB3 map updates - again'') which may also give some help. Good luck!

Yeah mk6 golf, they're slightly different to the mk5 ones and need a little trimming round the bottom of the rear door shuts from what I saw on the initial test fit. Weathers not been great so I've not had time really to get them on and have a proper look. I do have another front bumper I'm smoothing the plate mount out of and I'm trying to get hold of a cheap rear bumper so I can send them all to paint at the same time without having to have the car off the road for long.

I've started filling up with veg oil from Sainsbury's again given the ridiculous cost of diesel at the moment. Seems to run pretty happily on 100% undiluted rapeseed oil which costs about £1.05 a ltr but has reduced my average mpg by about 10%.

While the advert header specifies Polo, the compatibility section advises suitable if inputting your Fabia - 2008 - 70bhp - BZG data. Have you checked in this compatibility section with your reg number. Contact the seller for confirmation then if it didn't fit you should have some comeback. Does it generally look the same, i.e. no catalytic converter in pipe. A quick browse of the Bosal catalogue may also help confirm - to me it appears correct but I would suggest you check yourself with reg number and compare by inputting the Polo details. You may want to buy a gasket, front to rear clamp and some exhaust paste to ensure the job can be complete when started, and wire brush/lubricate all the fastener nuts in advance of starting the job. You will also have to remove a lamba sensor from the front pipe and looking on 7-Zap this has a "compression sleeve for front to rear pipe connection which can cause issues - I fitted this pipe on my daughters 2010 Polo and think there was some issue with this clamp when fitting. Below for general info to allow a review of current installation. front silencer rear silencer Skoda Fabia [Fabia (2007 - 2008)] (7zap.com) exhaust pipe with catalyst Skoda Fabia [Fabia (2007 - 2008)] (7zap.com)

Hmm, I didn't know that version existed. I suppose it just drives the motor until it stalls at each movement extreme, sensing the supplied current via voltage across a shunt. Maybe with broken cog this is just more noticeable than usual? It never 'knows' where it is, it just drives quietly to fully open when ignition current first arrives via fuse 12? If it's already at this position and the cogs are intact, you'll not really hear or notice any movement, but with damaged mechanics it's more obvious?

Yep, seems so, thousands of unfinished cars, stored everywhere, waiting. Mine is supposedly due in May, but have no other info (as some of you have it in more details).

Blimey, gotta name that toon in two, audio was only a second long. I could imagine that being one of those gearbox mounts as it has a sort of rocking sound - but - sorry, I really don't know, other than it's not quite the same as ours as ours has a slight squeak to the end, perhaps suggesting ours is more worn/ loose / faulty. I've found noise, like water (leaks), do travel and where it ends can be quite far from where it begins. You could try strapping/clipping/tying a listening or recording device [ETA: spare iPhone] to a couple of areas under the car like near front left damper or both gearbox mounts and see where the noise is loudest/most distinct. Or hopefully someone else might know from your recording here.

Errrk... Good that you had it done properly this time! 👍 How many miles on the clock?

Interesting that the guy clearly doesn't like EVs nor VW's haptic buttons, but gets to go the product launch of something that has all of those. I really like the Buzz, they've done a good job of styling and packaging. The ID ride and handling are excellent IMO, so this will be a great family bus. I can also see them becoming beloved of Taxi drivers....

Skoda dealers can't help you modify your car. All they can do is recommend what Skoda has approved. Slightly oversize tyres such as 225/55R17 fitted to standard 7Jx17 ET40 rims and 245/45R18 fitted to 8Jx18 ET44 rims will be fine. Many Superb MK3 owners are already using these sizes without problems.

Wast Water seen from Illgill Head.

Why shouldn't they continue to build cars? At least when the relevant parts become available they can be added to the part built vehicles quickly and the order completed. If they stop production altogether then everyone ends up waiting even longer and the list will grow exponentially. After looking at other manufacturers a lot are suffering from similar issues especially for popular or desirable models.

Washed mine yesterday, it never stays clean long! 🙄

Sorry, I don't have the time to edit this to look neater VRM: SF03EVR Make: Skoda Model: Octavia Engine Size Description: 1.8 Exact CC: 1781 Vehicle Year: 2003 Manufacturer Version Code: 1U Vehicle Type: Car Derivative: vRS Colour: RED Steering Position: Right Hand Drive Body Style: Hatchback Doors: 5 Doors Drive Type: Front Transmission Type: Manual Gears: 5 Gears Engine Size: 15 Fuel: Petrol Fuel Delivery: Turbo Injection Valves: 20 Valves BHP: 180 KW: 132 Engine Code: AUQ Cylinders: 4 Cylinders Weight: 1810kg VIN: TMBER41U538683162 Engine Number: AUQ055417AUQ Date Of Registration: 01/03/2003 Model Version Date Range: 1B (10/2000 - 12/2008) Search Increment: 1 Dvla Model: OCTAVIA RS EVSpec: 18479 Vehicle Guid: C530D45E-FE2B-425A-B426-4F46F8F66DAB Vehicle Id: 20650 DVLAENGINECODE: AUQ Vehicle Type Number: 15293 Engine Size Litres: 1.8 Dvla Make: SKODA Vehicle Identification No. TMBER41U538683162 Model octavia rs OCT Date of production 29.10.2002 Year 2003 Sales type 1U25R4 Engine Code AUQ Transmission Code EHA Axle drive 5S Equipment HV Roof color 8T Exterior color / Paint Code 8T / F3K Special editions E0A no sales compaign version Lockable wheel bolts 1PC Wheel bolts with anti-theft protection (unlockable) Vehicle class differentiation powertrains/platform parts 0CH Vehicle class differentiation -1U0- Emission standard 0GG Emission standard EU4 Trailer hitch 1D0 Without trailer hitch Airbag 4UE Airbag for driver and front passenger Activated carbon canister/gasoline particulate filter 1E1 Activated carbon canister Overhead storage compartment 7N0 Without overhead storage compartment Antennas 8L3 Roof antenna Exterior mirror adjustment 6XD Exterior mirrors, power-adjustable/ heated Left exterior mirror 3BF Left exterior mirror: convex, power-adjustable and heated Right exterior mirror 3AV Right exterior mirror: aspherical, power-adjustable and heated Drive type 1X0 Front-wheel drive Equipment lines A8F Sports equipment Rear brakes 2ED Disc brakes in rear Batteries J1L Battery 280 A (60 Ah) Front brakes 1ZN Disc brakes in front (Geomet D) Components with special surfaces 6FB exterior mirror housing in colour of vehicle Controls (steering wheel/steering column) 4LA Without control element Beverage holders 4M6 Beverage holders Component sets for country-specific prescriptive standards B0N Part set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts Brake pressure regulator 1H0 Without brake pressure regulator Brake systems 1AJ Anti-slip regulation (ABS/ASR/EDL) with electronic differential lock (EDL) Owner's manuals 0VF Information kit in English Heated door lock cylinder 9X0 Without heated door lock cylinder Brake pad wear indicator 9U1 Brake pad wear indicator Heated washer nozzles 9T0 Without heated washer nozzles CD-ROM/DVD/SD card 7QA Without CD/DVD for navigation CD changer/CD player 7A2 CD changer Chrome package QJ0 No aluminium/chrome package General operating license additions C00 Operating permit, initial registration Cd-enhancing underbody panel 2D0 Without cd enhancing underbody panel Roof rails/roof rack 3S4 Preparation for roof load rack Roof insert/convertible top 3FA Without roof insert (standard roof) Shock absorption in rear 1JC Shock absorption in rear, sports version Shock absorption in front G85 Shock absorption in front Load-through hatch/ski bag 3X0 not with through-loading aperture Tank filler neck for unleaded fuel/fuel type 2G9 Filler neck module 2 with insert Installation differentiation for vehicle parts 0EJ Installation differentiation for transmission MQ 250 -- vehicle components -- Theft protection system 7AA Electronic immobilizer Inserts 5TC No trim inlay Park distance control 7X1 Park distance control Electric Safety package 9BC Display and warning tone f. opened doors Differentiation for manufacturing process 0FA Standard manufacturing sequence Vehicle type AZ0 Vehicle with production equipment Window regulator 4R4 Power windows with comfort operation and circuit breaker Fire extinguisher 6A0 without fire extinguisher Headlight control 8K0 Without special headlight control Fresh air intake for vehicle interior (with particle filter) 2V1 dust and pollen filter Antifreeze agent 1C1 Antifreeze up to -25 degree Celsius tolerance up to -30 degree C Vehicle specifications F0A No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment Throttle control 0L2 Electronic throttle control Alternators 8GD Alternator 90 A Transmission types/gear shift mechanisms 0G4 Cable gearshift Weight category for rear axle 0YZ Without determination of weight category for rear axle Weight category for front axle L13 Suspension range 13 installation control only, no requirement forecast Base engine T8C 4-cylinder SI engine 1.8 l unit 06A.C Luggage net/bag on backrest(s) 4U1 Luggage nets/pockets on backrests Luggage compartment cover 3U1 Folding trunk cover Tie down straps/net/pocket 6M2 Load safety net cruise control system 8T2 Electronic cruise control system (CCS) Sound insulation measures for outside noises 2B5 Additional exterior noise insulation Transmission specification G0C 5-speed manual transmission Speed alert system/speed limiter 6Y0 Without speed warning system Glove compartment 4Z3 Lockable glove compartment door, with light Center high-mounted stop lamp 8R1 Center high-mounted stop lamp Hand brake lever 6PC Hand brake lever handle in leather Wiper and washer system for rear windows 8M1 Rear window wiper washer system with intermittent wipe Rear axle 0N5 Standard rear axle Rear seats 3NC Rear bench seat/backrest, split folding Heating system/air conditioning system 9AK Climatronic with impact pressure control, CFC-free Main headlamps 8BQ Halogen main headlamps for driving on the left Dashboard inserts U1B Instrument cluster with mph speedometer, clock, tachometer and trip odometer Dashboard 4N1 Padded dashboard Breakaway interior rearview mirror 4L0 Breakaway interior rearview mirror, non-dimming Labels (customer specific or campaigns) 0KA Without decals and emblems Body forms K8G Hatchback Luggage compartment floor covering 6SC Luggage compartment floor covering in needle-punched nonwoven Cassette/CD storage compartment 4W0 Without cassette/CD storage Characteristic map cooling system QS0 Without electronic map cooling system Child seats QA0 without child seat Head restraints in rear 3Q6 3 rear head restraints Head restraints 3J7 Tilt- and height-adjustable head restraints for front seats Fuel tank material treatment 2LB Fuel tank with special material treatment (fluorination) Fuel filling volume 1Z2 Increase in initial standard fuel filling Fuel systems 0F2 Fuel system for fuel-injected SI engine Body measures 5C6 Additional measures for the body Child bench 3V0 without child seat bench Radiator grille 6KA Radiator grille Rear license plate carrier 6P1 Rear license plate carrier (ECE) License plate carrier in front 6W1 Front license plate carrier (large) Paint preservation/transport protection 5K1 Transit coating (wax) Luggage/load compartment floor in rear 3GA Without luggage compartment floor Steering system setup L0R Right-hand drive reading light 8S5 2 reading lights in front Steering system 1N6 Power steering Backrest release 3H0 Without backrest release for front seats Ventilation duct in front VK0 Air duct, standard Lumbar support in backrests 7P4 Manually adjustable lumbar support in front seats Steering wheels 2PX Leather-wrapped sports steering wheel Loudspeaker installation 9VE Digital sound package Steering column systems 2C5 Axial and vertical adjustable steering column Headlight range control 8Q1 Headlight range control Center armrest 6E0 Without center armrest in front Multi-function display/trip computer 9Q1 Multi-function display/trip computer Engine cooling 8Z5 not hot country Engine specification MQ7 4-cylinder SI engine 1.8 l/132 kW (20V) turbo base engine is T8C/T16/T63 Vanity mirror on the left 4SC Left vanity mirror with cover Vanity mirror on the right 4TC Vanity mirror, right, with cover Navigation system 7Q0 not with navigation system rear fog lamp 8TD Rear fog light for driving on the left Front fog lamps/additional headlamps 8WD Integrated front fog lamps Rear floor panel platform module 4P2 Rear floor panel module, type 3 Platform group class 7PB Platform group class 2 Flat-tire spray GR0 Without flat-tire spray Wheel trims 1NL Trims for alloy wheels Wheels C7Q Alloy wheels 7J x 17 Radios 8YP Radio "MID" Tires 215/45 R16 86V H8N Tires 205/50 R17 V Tire suppliers V0A Tires without specification of tire brand Spare wheel/breakdown kit 1G3 Alloy spare wheel with original equipment tires Restraint systems in front 3QT 3-point seat belts in front, with pretensioner and height adjustment Side airbag 4X0 without side airbag Gearshift knob/gearshift handle 6Q2 Gearshift knob/handle in leather Special labels 0SS Labels in English and French Rear combination lamps 8SA Rear combination lamp, standard design Closing/opening mechanism tailgate/trunk lid/rear gate 4E0 Tailgate/trunk lid unlocking from outside Seat belt reminder 9P1 Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle Outer seat belts in rear 3ZB 3-point seat belts, outer rear with ECE label Center seat belts in rear 3C7 Three-point inertia reel belt for rear centre seat Gearshift boot/gearshift trim 6R2 Gearshift lever boot in leather Seat trim covers N0T Seat trim covers in fabric "Sport" Seat adjustment 3L3 Manual height adjustment for front seats seat heater 4A0 without seat heater Side lamps 8F6 Dark colored side turn signal lights Key for locking system 8QK Key for locking system Horns 8Y1 Two-tone horn Side and rear windows 4KC Side and rear windows in heat-insulating glass Protective side molding 4B1 Protective side strip Supertone system and successive tone alarm switch control 9J0 Without supertone system and tone sequence control Rear stabilizer bar 0BB Rear stabilizer bar Parking light warning light 8NA without side light warning Front stabilizer bar 0AR Front stabilizer bar Heavy-duty/sports version 2UA Standard design Headlamp washer system 8X0 Without headlamp washer system Intermittent windshield wiper control/ light/rain sensor 8N4 Windshield wiper intermittent control with potentiometer (four speeds) Mud flaps 6N1 Mud flap in rear Nameplate set 0NB Nameplate set in basic style Special alarm systems 9A0 Without taxi alarm system Fuel cap/fuel filler door closing mechanism 2W0 Fuel filler cap Counterweights for steering wheels 1Q0 steering wheel without balance weight Door and tailgate/trunk lid locking mechanism 4K3 Central locking w/ radio remote control, interior controls and SAFELOCK Type-approval testing countries/ countries with specific requirements B09 Type approval country GB/Northern Ireland Carrier frequency for remote control 5D1 Carrier frequency 433.92 to 434.42 Mhz Partition 3CA with no partition Doors 0A2 4 doors TV reception/digital radio reception QV0 Without TV reception/digital radio reception Front-end underbody cladding 1SA Without additional front underbody guard Identification labels 1EX Special identification label for EC First aid kit/warning triangle 1T0 Without first aid kit and warning triangle Two-way radio installation preparation 9D0 without preparation for two-way radio system Front seats Q4H Sports comfort seats in front Telephone/telematics 9W0 Without car phone preparation/ installation Additional warning lamps 9TB Additional warning lights (door area) LongLife Service Regime QG1 LongLife Service Regime Thermal energy storage system/auxiliary heater 7E0 W/o heat accumulator/auxiliary heating Windshield 4GC Heat-reflecting windshield glass with sunshield Washer fluid level indicator 8W0 not with washer fluid level indicator foot mats 0TD Front and rear floor mats Additional child seat anchorage 3B0 Without additional child seat anchors Ignition locking system/electronic steering column lock 0RA Without ignition/starter switch locking system Auxiliary heater 9M0 Without auxiliary heater/parking heater

If you have the screw on type of fitting you can add on one of these to the end:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B098QR7958/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks, AG Falco

Skoda dealer here in Ireland said they are no longer accepting orders before 2023 now

If you heard a horrifying GGNNNRRRR noise and the car came to an abrupt stop, you activated 'manoeuvre braking' , where at low speeds the car will brake itself to stop you bumping into things. The reason the brake pedal 'went down further' is because it braked just before you did, so you'll have felt virtually no pedal resistance. It's a horrible noise, that I assume is the ABS pump, not gears being mashed. All normal and nothing to worry about. Edit - in the manual it's called "Automatic Emergency Braking" "If the system detects a collision risk when travelling forwards or reversing at a speed up to 8 km/h, there is an automatic emergency braking to reduce the impact consequences. Disable / Enable The brake function can be enabled / disabled in the Infotainment in the menu Parking and manoeuvring » page 215. "

I wonder whether these dealers giving updates now have information that is truly up to date.....? Unless VAG/Skoda can source a supplier of wiring looms from somewhere other than Ukraine then I don't think any of us are getting a car anytime soon..........😧 I wonder how many looms they have in the stores. I suspect I know the answer to that......😥

Finally got an update from my dealer yesterday and have now got a build week - Week 11 (14th March) and a "potential" handover week - Week 16 (18th April) So if all goes to plan there is a 5-6 week turnaround between build and delivery to the customer which is a great bit of news, and just in time for a long maiden journey.

Got a few bits fitted, and out of the paint booth... First time it's seen daylight in 3 months! 😍

Great example of experience taking a software driven computer-on-wheels to a traditional fossil engine dealer. The receptionist or the person giving your coffee won't know jack all. They are only there to look sleek. As with all main dealers, they feel the need to jack up the price to employ those people so you don't get to speak to the technical people in the know. Then the technicians have their hands tied to follow service manuals, and in this case, software update instructions. Unless manufacturer publish changelist like software releases, no one in the dealership (or anywhere) will know what has changed. They prefer you treat your car as a blackbox and physically visit them everytime there's a fault, wasting your time and money. I hate main dealers.....