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Blowhards should expect to be mocked, and bring it on themselves. Hope this helps.

This may be new world record. The topic was 20 odd posts into the second page until laughing boy could contain himself no longer, and had to tell us (yet again) the exceeding clever and completely legal tax avoidance process of paying his enormous surplus income into his pension fund. Congratulations on such unusual restraint.

Taking too many tablets can have such effects.

Cheers guys. You’re helping me stay positive

Tablet tablet playing playing up up 🤣

New York New York. They named it twice.

Not all of us who are Leo's born with Leo rising have the same approach to life.

No option to reduce my driving as I'm 'next of kin' for a relative who is in hospital 120 miles from where I'm living. In the last 3 weeks it has snowed twice and been several morning frosts where I'm staying so turning the heating off hasn't been an option, but I have turned it down 2 degrees. Having said all that, I'm doing everything possible to avoid giving any support, financial or moral, to any Russian or Belarussian people or organisations.

<two pence> Okay so hawd the bus here... How can we go from driving slower for the overall benefit of the Ukrainians, allegedly, to discussing @lol-lol's moral compass/decision making? I feel like there's a time and place for the latter and I don't think this is it. </two pence>

There is 2 plugs that do this trim panels lighting, one for left and one for right. If you take the glovebox out completely you will be able to see if they’re both plugged in. Swap the plugs over and see if the fault changes to drivers side. You’ve then eliminated the fault on the car or the strip and we can work from there.

The old Novas were fairly easy to get into with a coat hanger.

I can vaguely remember Clarkson showing you could start an old Vauxhall Nova without a key. I can't remember if he could open the door without one though.

So, when I posed my question yesterday I was reminded of the wise advice written on fireworks when I was a kid “Light blue touch paper and retire immediately “ 😉 Reading through the comments since it’s interesting it’s mainly about the legality of minimising tax liability and how it can be done within the rules. However, my point was about the moral debate. Anyway, as a few have said, we’re now miles off the topic of speeds, fuel consumption, Russian oil imports and supporting Ukraine (however indirectly all that may be). Thanks all for an interesting, lively and, in parts, unexpected debate which has probably now run its course. For my part, I’ll take a few mph off my usual cruising speed, saving a few drops of fuel, slightly reducing imports of oil, save a few £ over each tankful to add more directly to my support the Ukrainian appeal.

Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right place - mods could you move if needed please? I live near Mold in Flintshire I have front seats from a Porche 911 to fit any Skoda Fabia Mk1. A bit old, but a lovely feel and bolt straight in. Also, from my time with a TDI, ECU stage 1 for 1.9TDI Timing belt tool for above Oil filter housing complete Injector lights Alternator Headlamp Door panel and window motors and odd bits These are free to anyone who can collect them. Donation to a charity would be nice, but basically I would like to see them used by a Skoda owner. Please don't take them to sell. I think you can send me an email via Briskoda Chris

Correct, the car was not fit for purpose since day one of your owneship. So, if they try & make you pay for new brakes just tell them NO! They will probably try it on though because they pay Rylan Clark & he has teeth to pay for you know 🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭

Indeed... And very nicely phrased... I'm sure there are other words you could have used Indeed... And very nicely phrased... I'm sure there are other words you could have used Indeed... And very nicely phrased... I'm sure there are other words you could have used Indeed... And very nicely phrased... I'm sure there are other words you could have used Indeed... And very nicely phrased... I'm sure there are other words you could have used Indeed... And very nicely phrased... I'm sure there are other words you could have used Indeed... And very nicely phrased... I'm sure there are other words you could have used

Snowed here as well, had to de-ice cars in the morning and had the heating off for weeks now. But my house has been bl00dy cold. I am being tight and living by my means and cutting cloth etc etc. I will maybe do more cutting when the UK government start rationing fuel once they do stop all imports from Russia or from countries buying from Russia which includes EU ones.

I got round to pulling the rubber grommet off the chassis plug today, and found that the thick red wire has broken, but as far as I could tell it was the only one that had severed through and through (see the first photo). I am guessing that prior to me removing the grommet it was only touching sometimes and hence causing the intermittent fault. At this point none of the functions to the door worked, I surmise the thick red wire is probably a common 12v +ve feed. I thought it was probably worth having a go at a fix today. I managed to strip back just enough of the red insulation to allow a self-soldering joint to slide over both ends of the break, inserted a thermal shield (i.e. piece of cardboard) between the red wire and the rest of the bundle to prevent collateral damage, and very carefully melted the solder with a 175w iron. The joint had its own shrink wrap, so that should give some mechanical protection (see second photo): The break had been close to the door end of the wire, so I couldn’t get the soldering iron close to that end. Now I seem to have full functionality of the door: central locking, mirrors, windows and speakers, so this appears to be a good quick win for the time being. The wires are quite brittle, so this probably isn’t the end of the story. I have ordered the repair patch, so I think I’ll still take the door apart and fit it next weekend. I’ll report again when I do that job. Many thanks for all the advice chaps, Alan

....how time flies. The great white is off to tradeinsville today having served TeamThomas very well. A recent clutch replacement is the only major 'wear and tear' expense I've incurred and its just ticked over 96k miles. 👍🏻 Back on its original alloys and bearing its 2015(15) plate its off to EMG Kia in Cambridge if anyone is seeking a well looked after and reasonably rapid 😉 3T5. Any potential buyers are welcome to ask any questions. I'll be picking up a 2011(61) 9 seat VW Transporter T5.1, and no it's not staying standard for long.....

Skoda pricing is about 450 broken into 150 parts and 2.2 hours labour which is 300 notes. Think the garage I took it to (under recommendation since I moved to the area, but they do have outstanding reviews everywhere) might well be hitting me for the same amount but have to wait until Monday to see if that's correct... Seems a little odd that it would be the same as a dealer, unless there was summat else as well. Skoda labour is 138 per hour... Wouldn't have thought the garage I took it too would be that much, but we will see. If they are charging the same as the dealer, its possibly the first and last time I'm going there!

20 is definitely a record... Its usually about 3 before he spouts off about putting cash into his pension to avoid paying tax, or how much he earns, or his little solar generator and battery, or something to do with politics 🤣

Update on the DSG, local dealer confirmed its an 80 000 mile service for the DSG fitted to mine & were aware of varying requirements. Happy with that & annual service/MOT completed with no issues. THanks again for the responses above.

Well this wasn’t as bad a job as I was expecting. 👍 The issue started to become apparent a few weeks before total failure, with the drivers window switch intermittently failing. Over the next two weeks the failure progressively became more frequent, finally giving up the ghosts entirely. Diagnosing the problem started with me testing the others window switches with both front and rear near side working but neither front nor rear offside working. The other issues that came up were that the off side doors wouldn’t lock (however the fuel cap did), the mirror adjusting switch also didn’t work and there were no lights to any of the drivers door switches. After a bit of Googling I found myself inspecting the door harness between the hinges. After peeling the rubber sleeving back I could see that a number of the cables had broken. I ordered a repair kit from eBay and got to work when it arrived. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Left-Right-Door-Cable-Wiring-Harness-Loom-Plug-For-SKODA-ROOMSTER-SUPERB-YETI/333814539014?hash=item4db8e5a306:g:RVkAAOSwnRpfyz47 I decided to replace as much of the harness as the kit provided as, in my opinion, trying to fix the issue in the hinge would only lead to failure again as the existing cable was very brittle compared to the new stuff in the repair kit. I cut what remained attached to the harness connector, removed the door card and pulled the harness through the door. I trimmed the cables back to the outer skin of the door and used these brilliant soldering joints to attach the new tails on. (My soldering has never been as good as I would like and these things are so easy to use.) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281x-Waterproof-Solder-Seal-Heat-Shrink-Wire-Cable-Connectors-Crimps-Butt-Joint/393138233400?hash=item5b88dd6038:g:dmkAAOSwdPxgLf-Y After extending the harness, re-taping and pushing back through the door and protective hinge cover and that remained was to hook up to the new connection block. Abracadabra, everything was working again. The job took around two hours to complete and is easily done with a few basic tools. TIP To remove the rubber sleeve between the door. Pull the harness cables through the door, then push the sleeve into to door and then pull it out. I think trying to pry it out will lead to damaging the sleeve.

Hi all, So when I upgraded to a dual camera setup and mounted the rear dash camera to the rear glass in-between the defrost lines, I found that I had lost all DAB reception. Recently I tried to buy some ferrite cores and mounted them on both ends of the USB cable and still had no reception. I'm also aware that there are some dash cameras companies that advertise that they have eliminated DAB interference but they want you to spend £200 or so on their new systems. 🙄 I got to experimenting and removed the mount, left the DAB radio on and then moved the rear dash camera while it was on, all over the rear glass to figure out where it cut off the DAB reception. If you mount anywhere on the glass you were going to cut off the signal. I found a nice spot (or so I thought) just underneath the top brake light right up at the edge of the plastic trim, but the problem was that my specific dash camera has a straight cable going out instead of something like a right/left-angle cable (and it's really not so easy trying to find a 6m left-angle to right-angle mini USB cable), so when I opened the boot door it would brush up and against the cable. If I had shut it without looking I'm pretty sure the cable would've been caught between the boot opening and damage both the cable and camera. Then there was another issue, that area below the top brake light gets really hot under the sun, so if you had a weak adhesive on the mount it'll probably fall off over time but the final problem was running the cable back to the C-pillar. I used the provided clips and mounted the USB cable to the top of the plastic trim and that's when the signal cut out again. I tried to shield the wiring using some layered aluminum foil (which I had planned to wrap around the USB cable if it had worked), unfortunately that didn't work and I'm aware that there are some EMF tape but those are very expensive to buy and experiment with. I've already wasted money getting various ferrite cores. Ultimately it looked like this wasn't going to work with any powered USB cable mounted on the plastic trim or rear glass, it all just seems to interfere with the DAB reception. My working solution was something I had found on a bimmer forum. Using what I had available I made this bracket (from a spare joist hanger bracket, lots of hammering, bending and satin black spray paint). Here it is fitted, off centre as there is a plastic trim clip holding up headliner. And here it is with the dash camera fitted and the cable tucked into the headliner and into the C-pillar. I might take it back out and re-adjust the angle so that it fits into the headliner better (or remake it entirely). The only issues I have is that the rear view is off centre and further back than before. The view is also slightly obstructed by the upper brake light cover and parcel shelf. However I have full DAB reception now with this set up, so I can listen to some tunes other than my own (and traffic announcements). 😁

I’m pretty sure I also read that in one of the threads whilst doing my homework yesterday eve. That does not entirely surprise me: a dealer would insist on replacing the whole door loom, which I understand costs about £200/side, plus I should think a couple of hours of labour. The good thing about VAG motor cars is that parts are plentiful - and there are lots of pattern parts and good used spares out there.

Thank you for that. I agree this was probably a temporary fix. You are right, the wire, and particularly the insulation, gets really brittle with use. I suspect my driver’s door issue is not over yet; I think I’ll end up fitting the wiring patch I’ve ordered. This type of issue is not confined to VAG. One on my other motor cars, a Volvo 244 (albeit now 42 years old) developed spurious electrical issues in the engine compartment. I ended up making up a new compartment loom from scratch - out of better quality wire than Mr Volvo used. My Skoda Superb estate is been first class for the past 9 years (I bought it new), but I suppose it is getting to that difficult age. I like the motor car though, it isn’t worth enough to bother selling but it has only done 70,000ish miles, does 50mpg and only costs £30 to tax. I’m happy enough to do a bit more maintenance as the motor car gets older as long as it doesn’t get too expensive of course. In that respect this forum is first class - it would have taken me considerably more time to sort this problem without it. Alan

Kinda late I know but in case anyone else is gonna be looking for it. Yes you were right! That part was super easy to separate, since I didn't need it. My original carped had it separated as well it seems, no knife required there's little section's to just easily rip it off basically. Glad I paid much less, it's not mint, cleaned it as much as I could, but I also bought an extra rubber cover so it looks good and also to avoid any spills and stuff like that. It was oil spill that caused me to look for a new cover afterall.

That’s really helpful, thanks. As it happens, most of my driving would be on the M27 as well. I guess the 60 limit helps.

🤣 I once lost quite a decent tape deck when my dad borrowed my Fiat Panda and forgot to take the front of it. He couldn't work out how they got in without doing any damage. My theory is they peeled the gaffa tape off that made up the top of the door skin, lifted the lock, then smoothed the tape back down.

I found keeping the glass clean helped. You'd be surprised how much a bit of dirt impacts the light transmission.

No, it was done at 18k at 3 years old, together with the DSG.

Best of luck,thinking of you.

You can easily distinguish these by front and rear lights. Pictures below are 2015 gen 3 Superb Estate.

What he said….

@hetty1 PM'd

I have 17’s as winter tyres on my 4x4 2.0Tsi, not much room but they do fit.

That's odd as I have 17" wheels which fit.

I had my previous car, a 2011 MK2 FL Octavia VRS TSI, remapped by Shark, now known as Racingline. I was very pleased with it and it gave me no problems up to when I traded it in at 104k miles. My present car as you can see details of at the bottom of this post, has got a Racingline map on and I am extremely pleased with it. This car was mapped on a rolling road by a VW specialist in Swindon. I am almost certain like me though, after the remap you will need to spend on an uprated clutch to handle the increase in engine torque. If you do spend out on an uprated clutch, have them replace the rear engine oil seal at the same time, as they are a weak point on the VW engine. I sadly had the gearbox input shaft oil seal go shortly after the new Helix clutch and DMF was fitted. It ruined the new DMF and clutch so had to spend out for all the new parts to be replaced again. Loads of money!! So I would have them replace that gearbox oil seal as well, seeing as though they have the gearbox out doing the clutch anyway.

i knew there is a few waiting longer than me for there cars.there is nothing we can do but wait it out.people say cancel you order then what?back to the waiting list again and another long wait.good luck with you getting you car soon.

ETRTO approved rim widths for passenger car tyres 095/80 3.0-3.0-3.0 105/80 3.0-3.0-3.5 115/80 3.0-3.0-4.0 125/80 3.0-3.5-4.0 135/80 3.5-3.5-4.5 145/80 3.5-4.0-5.0 155/80 4.0-4.5-5.0 165/80 4.0-4.5-5.5 175/80 4.5-5.0-6.0 185/80 4.5-5.0-6.0 195/80 5.0-5.5-6.5 205/80 5.0-5.5-7.0 215/80 5.5-6.0-7.0 225/80 6.0-6.0-7.5 235/80 6.0-6.5-8.0 245/80 6.5-7.0-8.0 255/80 6.5-7.0-8.5 265/80 7.0-7.5-9.0 095/75 3.0-3.0-3.0 105/75 3.0-3.0-3.5 115/75 3.0-3.0-4.0 125/75 3.0-3.5-4.0 135/75 3.5-3.5-4.5 145/75 3.5-4.0-5.0 155/75 4.0-4.5-5.0 165/75 4.0-4.5-5.5 175/75 4.5-5.0-6.0 185/75 4.5-5.0-6.0 195/75 5.0-5.5-6.5 205/75 5.0-5.5-7.0 215/75 5.5-6.0-7.0 225/75 6.0-6.0-7.5 235/75 6.0-6.5-8.0 245/75 6.5-7.0-8.0 255/75 6.5-7.0-8.5 265/75 7.0-7.5-9.0 105/70 3.0-3.0-3.5 115/70 3.0-3.5-4.0 125/70 3.0-3.5-4.0 135/70 3.5-4.0-4.5 145/70 3.5-4.5-5.0 155/70 4.0-4.5-5.0 165/70 4.0-5.0-5.5 175/70 4.5-5.0-6.0 185/70 4.5-5.5-6.0 195/70 5.0-6.0-6.5 205/70 5.0-6.0-7.0 215/70 5.5-6.5-7.0 225/70 6.0-6.5-7.5 235/70 6.0-7.0-8.0 245/70 6.5-7.0-8.0 255/70 6.5-7.5-8.5 265/70 7.0-8.0-9.0 275/70 7.0-8.0-9.0 315/70 8.0-9.5-10.5 125/65 3.5-3.5-4.5 135/65 3.5-4.0-5.0 145/65 4.0-4.5-5.0 155/65 4.5-4.5-5.5 165/65 4.5-5.0-6.0 175/65 5.0-5.0-6.0 185/65 5.0-5.5-6.5 195/65 5.5-6.0-7.0 205/65 5.5-6.0-7.5 215/65 6.0-6.5-7.5 225/65 6.0-6.5-8.0 235/65 6.5-7.0-8.5 245/65 7.0-7.0-8.5 255/65 7.0-7.5-9.0 265/65 7.5-8.0-9.5 275/65 7.5-8.0-9.5 285/65 8.0-8.5-10.0 125/60 3.5-3.5-4.5 135/60 3.5-4.0-5.0 145/60 4.0-4.5-5.0 155/60 4.5-4.5-5.5 165/60 4.5-5.0-6.0 175/60 5.0-5.0-6.0 185/60 5.0-5.5-6.5 195/60 5.5-6.0-7.0 205/60 5.5-6.0-7.5 215/60 6.0-6.5-7.5 225/60 6.0-6.5-8.0 235/60 6.5-7.0-8.5 245/60 7.0-7.0-8.5 255/60 7.0-7.5-9.0 265/60 7.5-8.0-9.5 275/60 7.5-8.0-9.5 285/60 8.0-8.5-10.0 145/55 4.0-4.5-5.0 155/55 4.5-5.0-5.5 165/55 4.5-5.0-6.0 175/55 5.0-5.5-6.0 185/55 5.0-6.0-6.5 195/55 5.5-6.0-7.0 205/55 5.5-6.5-7.5 215/55 6.0-7.0-7.5 225/55 6.0-7.0-8.0 235/55 6.5-7.5-8.5 245/55 7.0-7.5-8.5 255/55 7.0-8.0-9.0 265/55 7.5-8.5-9.5 275/55 7.5-8.5-9.5 285/55 8.0-9.0-10.0 295/55 8.0-9.5-10.5 305/55 8.5-9.5-11.0 325/55 9.0-10.0-11.5 145/50 4.0-4.5-5.0 155/50 4.5-5.0-5.5 165/50 4.5-5.0-6.0 175/50 5.0-5.5-6.0 185/50 5.0-6.0-6.5 195/50 5.5-6.0-7.0 205/50 5.5-6.5-7.5 215/50 6.0-7.0-7.5 225/50 6.0-7.0-8.0 235/50 6.5-7.5-8.5 245/50 7.0-7.5-8.5 255/50 7.0-8.0-9.0 265/50 7.5-8.5-9.5 275/50 7.5-8.5-9.5 285/50 8.0-9.0-10.0 295/50 8.0-9.5-10.5 305/50 8.5-9.5-11.0 325/50 9.0-10.0-11.5 165/45 5.0-5.5-6.0 175/45 5.5-6.0-6.5 185/45 6.0-6.0-7.0 195/45 6.0-6.5-7.5 205/45 6.5-7.0-7.5 215/45 7.0-7.0-8.0 225/45 7.0-7.5-8.5 235/45 7.5-8.0-9.0 245/45 7.5-8.0-9.0 255/45 8.0-8.5-9.5 265/45 8.5-9.0-10.0 275/45 8.5-9.0-10.5 285/45 9.0-9.5-10.5 295/45 9.5-10.0-11.0 305/45 9.5-10.0-11.5 325/45 10.0-11.0-12.0 165/40 5.5-6.0-6.5 195/40 6.5-7.0-7.5 205/40 7.0-7.5-8.0 215/40 7.0-7.5-8.5 225/40 7.5-8.0-9.0 235/40 8.0-8.5-9.5 245/40 8.0-8.5-9.5 255/40 8.5-9.0-10.0 265/40 9.0-9.5-10.5 275/40 9.0-9.5-11.0 285/40 9.5-10.0-11.0 295/40 10.0-10.5-11.5 305/40 10.0-11.0-12.0 315/40 10.5-11.0-12.5 325/40 11.0-11.5-13.0 335/40 11.0-12.0-13.0 345/40 11.5-12.0-13.5 165/35 5.5-6.0-6.5 195/35 6.5-7.0-7.5 205/35 7.0-7.5-8.0 215/35 7.0-7.5-8.5 225/35 7.5-8.0-9.0 235/35 8.0-8.5-9.5 245/35 8.0-8.5-9.5 255/35 8.5-9.0-10.0 265/35 9.0-9.5-10.5 275/35 9.0-9.5-11.0 285/35 9.5-10.0-11.0 295/35 10.0-10.5-11.5 305/35 10.0-11.0-12.0 315/35 10.5-11.0-12.5 325/35 11.0-11.5-13.0 335/35 11.0-12.0-13.0 345/35 11.5-12.0-13.5 245/30 8.0-8.5-9.0 255/30 8.5-9.0-9.5 265/30 9.0-9.5-10.0 275/30 9.0-9.5-10.0 285/30 9.5-10.0-10.5 295/30 10.0-10.5-11.0 305/30 10.5-11.0-11.5 315/30 10.5-11.0-11.5 325/30 11.0-11.5-12.0 335/30 11.5-12.0-12.5 345/30 11.5-12.0-12.5 295/25 10.0-10.5-11.0 305/25 10.5-11.0-11.5 315/25 11.0-11.5-12.0 325/25 11.5-12.0-12.5 335/25 11.5-12.0-12.5 345/25 12.0-12.5-13.0 355/25 12.5-13.0-13.5 375/20 13.0-13.5-14.0 https://btmauk.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/ETRTO-2016-Approved-Rims.pdf https://www.goodyear.eu/en_gb/consumer/learn/how-to-read-your-tire-sidewall-markings.html#:~:text=Load index%3A Your tyre's load,can carry 615kg of weight.

Yep have used racingline in the past with awesome reliable results. Over 100k miles in each vehicle. Both diesel though. Also I have an up gti which will soon be done by them after driving one of their development ones 😉

Nope. Hadn’t made any changes to anything, just got into the car one evening and it was dark. Complete mystery and an expensive one at that!

Thanks for the great guide! I was just looking to do the same to my OK but was wondering if it would be possible for the pre-face OK3. I noticed some of the parts used are defined as for the facelift. Thanks a bunch!

The stop start function is a feature designed by a marketing team, not an engineer. It might indeed save a few molecules of fuel, but the thermal cycling and wear on the starter system isn't worth it. Today, I'm washing mine then off across mid Wales on holiday on a canal boat for the week, to be reminded why diesel power is so unpleasant!

Gave to old girl a birthday clean this weekend. 20 years old and still slaying the Mustangs.

mine spray fine now but were rubbish. like they hadn't been tested at all. I took a Stanley knife blade to the top of the opening increasing the angle of the opening. Don't take off to much at once though.

Great job! I recently did this job on mine, its really not that bad at all once you get the door card off and just really take your time. Although its definitely a job I think I could do again in half the time now I've done it once!

Mine has just been replaced by a dealer after taking out both OS doors. Plus electric windows and the mirror adjustment. You have done a good job there. I never realised there was such an easy repair plug with wires option available. Most advice was to solder or replace the whole loom.

Again Mann still offer two (earlier/later cars) meaning they are not interchangeable....but both show 2 none-return valves. If you put the 2 pictures side-by-side for Mann W712/93 and W712/94 the bit that mates with the engine does look different (red arrow).