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I was actually tempting to do it, but not sure whether people would find it useful. - feel free to add reactions to this message, if anyone would find the spreadsheet useful Unfortunately I will be away for a couple of days, so I could make a separate post on Wednesday where it could be handled.

I was really happy with the shot of the little brown trout last week. Not to be outdone, my Daughter's just sent me a photo of her near this torpedo, in Lake Bled, Slovenia: I obviously now need to find something that fits the bill of 'You're gonna need a bigger boat' Gaz

CleanMyDrive solved mi issue 😎 Thanks again Greetings from italy

I'm thinking front wheel bearing(s). Jack the wheels up and check them yourself. I'd be most surprised if it's tracking, but it could be an outer rod end. Brakes. Have you tried holding the foot brake on hard, and then applying the handbrake as hard as you can twice. That often works the self-adjusters where normal service usage doesn't.

Sounds a bit like the plastic casing is cracked or distorted, and that will get replaced by your workshop I'd think, so I'd lay off loading any gunge into the clean coolant system.

Thank you for the advice I took the cluster out and stripped it down, found several cracked solder joints. I've reflowed them and it seems to be all good. Now just to fix the other fun quirks it has (noisy starter motor, central locking that likes to lock itself at will etc )

This has become a hot topic lately, a few people have ordered or are about to order an upgraded rear arb and many more are asking about it so I reckon it would be helpful to have this information gathered in one thread, instead of scattered in various (sometimes not even related) threads. Information about possible options, installation and reviews of-course. I've went for the H&R 25mm one, the model number for the 2.0T 272/280 AWD cars is: 33581 HA5. The model number for the 2.0T 220 FWD is: 33851 HA for the 24mm one and: 33851 HA2 for the 26mm one (apparently the FWD has two options) The bar already arrived today but I will hold off installation until I get the replacement OEM bolts and nuts on Monday, needed for the job. Below is the illustration of the items from the Skoda manual as well as a small table I made with all the involved fasteners for upgrading the rear arb and end-links (if needed), numbers and torque figures. FASTENERS INVOLVED: # in Skoda manual Title OEM No. Torque Quantity REPLACE Tool #4 Bushing bolts M8x30 N10765801 20Nm+90 4x YES Triple square No.10 #6 ARB to droplink self_locking nut N10286110 55Nm 2x NO 16mm socket + Triple square No.6 for inner screw #5 Hex head bolt M8x85 N10776501 - 2x YES 13mm socket #2 Hex nut N90183804 20Nm+180 2x YES 13mm socket UPDATE: Link of a very clear video of the installation on a Mk7.5 Golf R (identical setup)

Hi All, Hope everyone is well and I’ll be grateful if someone can help with some advice. We’ve just bought a nearly new pre-registered Skoda Superb from dealer stock. It’s an SE Technology model. This has replaced our Octavia and it’s the first car we’ve ever had with electric seats. We weren’t sure how to use them and we found this video which is for a Kodiaq instead of a Superb. https://youtu.be/feE3I-TQGcg Should the operation be the same on the Superb? The reason we ask is because in the video the person presses the numbered memory button just once with a single press and takes their finger off the button and the seat goes into the memory position. However on our car you have to press and hold down the numbered memory button for the seat to move into place. As soon as you take your finger off the button the seat stops moving. Is this a fault that we need to report to the dealer or do the Superb seats work differently to the Kodiaq ones in the video and on the Superb you need to hold your finger on the button continuously until the seat has reached the final memory position? Thanks to anyone who can help with advice! John

This post may have just saved me hours of trying to figure out the logic of the electric boot on the skoda superb. Not seen this written anywhere!

The sky was ideal for reflections this evening 👍

They had all the toys out at Coningsby today. Never seen such a large collection of Typhoons in any one place.

Remember a normal brake bleed won't do it. To bleed the ABS you have to activate the ABS valves using the diagnostic port. So ensure any garage you ask knows what you are talking about and does that. I can't remember 100% how I kicked the procedure off now, something like open the ABS Controller, Group 10 and click Go. I had a pressure bleeder attached while doing the VCDS process.

And that proves nothing else but no leaks. The brakes go hard and short travel because you've blown the vacuum out of the servo unit,

Perez faster than Verstappen all weekend. Now Mexicos🇲🇽 most successful F1 driver (Whilst wearing a Pedro Rodriguez tribute helmet too)🇲🇽 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼. Posted after Ferrari's protests failed.

The Columbus of your era was the VW RNS510 equivalent. Maybe try a post in the Superb 2 section?

Happened to me between Christmas and New Year a couple of days before a 200 mile trip. No warning at all apart from an occasional 12v low message for a year which cleared after a trickle charge. Had Green Flag out to get it started and off I went to Halfords. Changed my own battery in the MkII but those DIY days are gone now

@AnnoyingPentium - I see where @aubrey is coming from.

I couldn't agree more with that. The less people who I shake hands with the better.

To be fair, Halfords branded are Yuasa, they fit and code too with a 5 year guarantee. Absolute bonus if you found a £70 gift card 😀

Ho avuto lo stesso errore 301 pompa ABS Risolto dopo aver trovato questo thread Grazie a chi condivide queste info 😎

Yeah 100 percent it all comes down to personal taste

A salesman selling insurance being on commission, who would have ever thought of that!

I dish out the Mac advise although I don't have one... wash my mouth out with salt water... but it fixes them all. Mac's stick an extra carriage return on the line or whatever. The map file is protected with a sla1 signature which means a secure signature is placed on the metainfo2.txt file. Private / User key. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/SHA-1 Vag signs the map file with their private key, the unit knows the public key and says, yes, this checks out and allows import. 1 character out and it rejects it. You can't manufacture the private key from the public key unless you have a security service type of computer like a Cray 😍. Then you could manufacture an import file via the secure methods. Ways around avoiding the signature have been found with the mib2 unit... they didn't close down feeding other code into the unit after the signature which is the exploit that developers of mib tool boxes use and specialist modified firmware which also carries the FeCs through another developers exploit. Saying that cross checks are not made on the integrity of what gets imported if you avoid the signature check so CleanMyDrive is even more important on a Mac if you are importing firmware of this nature. All clever stuff. CleanMyDrive removes all the bloat Mac characters so it looks like the PC download.

Top work my friend

Yes they are. I have the same unit in my A4 you need fec 23000ee

Assuming it's mib2 high and patched with the life long navigation FeC for Audi the conversation above as I recall, if not on the previous release, then it's going to be you are using a Mac and you need to use CleanMyDrive on the SD card after unzipping it. That's the common Mac error after unzipping. Failing that it's the format issue where I say stick to SD card 32gb, fat32 else you enter the territory of formats, covered above. That's about it. The life time navigation Audi FeC was published above or on the other thread. Look at yours and compare. Some retrofitters scam by just giving you a short term FeC to induce extra work. Why you need to check what you have against the life long FeC. That's set at the high point in the table where VAG will stop issuing releases before you hit that. Edit. Was this thread. Audi 23000ee the one Boo boo had.... we went round the houses before pinning the issue down, check yours and check unzip, Mac issues and format plus attached VAG (Discover Pro pdf above) notes I posted on the process above. Some Skoda drivers go off piste by using USB sticks then you enter the format debate. Stick to SD cards class 10 32gb and we dont need to cover that... the Vag guidance.

Scratch that, got it removed after sitting staring at it for a while. Gently (and I mean gently) pull on the bottom RHS to dislodge the 'pin', once that's dislodged move to the upper right stop and wiggle that out. Then, using small movements, wiggle the whole thing to the right at a slight angle and out it pops. Removing the 12v socket was a pain as I assumed it all came out as one piece. It doesn't! Pop the metal part out then the plastic surround comes out easily. Handily there's a plug to unclip so you can just remove the whole lot and do the wiring on a bench. I now have twin USB in the rear using one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09J2LPJCH/ Apologies @JR RS for the hijack

Went to a car meet this morning, bought a ticket thinking you had to pay for guest parking but no, I'd paid to be in the meet proper. Lot of cool stuff here And then there was me in a standard looking skoda, should add I only saw another skoda at the meet, a newish nardo grey octavia vRS. Definitely felt like a fish out of water but was fun nonetheless. The polo beside me had absolutely HUGE brakes on the front, only had the solid 232s on the back though. Lastly I got a Czech shot glass for donating to the dogs trust there. I think it's neat. Apparantly there's another meet next Sunday, and this which I might go to for the hell of it.

I've figured it out. It took two cups of coffee, some flapjack and a bit of logical thinking. If both mechanisms were doing the same thing, it must be me who's doing something wrong. In the end I realised that the pin mechanism that goes up & down has to be as far over as possible to the left when unlocked. Then I figured that the tab that fits to the handle needed some fine tuning. Too far in & the door wouldn't open. Too far out and it moved the pin mechanism out of position. Get it just right and it works!

If you are in the market for a new vehicle then a PHEV is definitely worth considering, especially if you do a lot of local driving and you can easily charge at home and can afford the extra purchase price. Otherwise buy a 20 litre jerrycan for cheap peace of mind. Most fuel shortages are pretty short lived. The only inconvenience with the jerrycan approach is that you should renew the fuel in the jerrycan every couple of months, although I have gone longer without noticeable effects on the engine when eventually used.

sounds like a very good idea.

I have had this problem for a few years and seasonally gets worse. 1.9 BKC 2005 Octy hatch 5 speed 256k Miles . The gear stick just won’t return to centre, it’s not the common sloppy issue.. If I go from second I need to guide it into 3rd. I have actually managed to live with it and changed my driving style to accommodate it. Today I managed to find the cause. Had checked the gear stick area. Sprayed wd40 on the shaft that goes into the gearbox quite a few times over the years. Placebo as I thought it was better. You need to remove the airbox for best access. There is a bracket that joins onto one of the cables and the shifter shaft to be removed and cleaned. I had to hammer it out and clean the shaft both ends grease up and replace. First remove the 3 clips one from each gear cable one from the end of the shaft/bracket thing. No tools needed just lever the front and prise away. Move the cables off the linkages. To remove the shaft off the gearbox using a hammer with light taps to the left. I scraped down the chrome shaft and cleaned out the aperture where it slides in with wd40 and cotton buds. Then used normal wheel bearing grease on the shaft and smeared some on the entry point. Refitted everything reverse of removal. Gear stick wobbles and centres like it should now.

We have had a couple of periods here where supplies of petrol and diesel have been limited: once apparently due to panic buying, and once due to action by stop oil protesters blocking the fuel depots, and it can be a bit worrying driving round on empty looking for a filling station that has fuel available. In times like this I have been thinking that a PHEV would be useful, so at least I wouldn't get stranded while I was looking for fuel. This may be worth a thought when considering a replacement vehicle, though refuelling before the tank gets really low may be sufficient to safeguard against this potential problem.

I might need a bit of advice on this one. The new lock mechanism turned up during the week. I had a bit of time today to swap the old for new as it only takes about 15 minutes at the most. I checked the two mechanisms side by side first and all seemed well. The replacement wasn't exactly the same, as you can see there's a spring not fitted to the replacement. However, this doesn't seem to affect the working of the lock so I went ahead and fitted it. I felt quite happy with things until I pressed the key fob to lock and then tried to reopen the door. It was deadlocked. You can imagine the language that followed so I'll spare you having to be exposed to that. Anyway, no matter what I tried the door just wouldn't open. I was just about to drill the new mechanism to wind it back manually and the car locked itself as it does when you haven't opened the driver's door after unlocking it. I unlocked the car, tried the rear door and it opened. Now the sensible thing to do would have been to stop and think, except I shut the door and locked the car to see if it had decided to work. Deadlocked again. So I repeated the unlocking without opening the driver's door a few times and on the fifth attempt the rear door opened. This time I took the lock out and refitted the original as it was working just fine despite having holes drilled in it. Half an hour before this, the original was working perfectly but on refitting it and locking the car, it now decided to deadlock itself! I've tried using both locks manually whilst unplugged and both are deciding to deadlock for some reason. Both work intermittently by using the old trick of banging the door in the right place. Both old and new mechanisms are acting in the same way when plugged in and when not plugged in. I'd understand if one was doing this but both mechanisms are acting the same way and it's driving me a bit crazy. The door loom looks fine and in fairness it's been working perfectly all week. I've stopped for now as I needed a break before I lose the plot. The car is unlocked and the rear door opens at the moment. It's on the drive behind the van so it's not going anywhere but I'd rather have it locked overnight. Does anyone have a clue as to what's happening and what I could do next?

Hope this helps.

Thats a quick way to not only invalidate any warranty you might have but also a complete bodge and possibly cause more blockages.... Simple answer is, find the leak, fix the leak. Dont go throwing random liquids in or cracking eggs in the system...

2.0 tdi dsg style, ordered Aug 2021, built with VIN since 11/04/22, waiting parts. Current status: delayed delivery. Slovenia, car ordered at main importer (Porsche Slovenija).

Mmm, yes it does sound like there is a fault. The only time I’ve had multiple actuations was when transporting something a bit long and couldn’t close the tailgate. The car would keep trying to lock it.

mine vrs estate 200 4x4 estate.ordered 21 may 2021.delivery was supposed september 2021.updated 3 febuary completed but waiting for parts.it also stated a short delay.

You could be onto something there. I've had one of the bearings done (front left) a wee while back, but it could be any other really. I'll try that. Cheers Ken. I'll check about and see what things are like under there and I'll report back.

The tyre looks like it is worn at the edges. It may need tracking, but best to not get that done until the knock is investigated.

Each to his own, there's no wrong or right way, both look good.

I had a similar problem a few weeks back but on the rear left passenger side. After doing things like, opening the door from the inside, locking and unlocking the doors using the lock/unlock button on the centre console and using the KESSY key to lock and unlock the doors, it eventually cured itself. I have no idea what caused the problem nor what actually did the trick.

Not much you can do even with it stripped out, so much goes on in the door latches now they will just fall apart if opened up. chances are the latch has failed and should be fairly straight forward to diagnose and change under warranty.

In my case it’s three years. And shove it and the spare in a faraday pouch and there’s no security issue at all..

Don't worry about the starter motor, my 1.4 was noisy for 11 years and my 2.0 still is after 6 years.

Mine lasted like a year before needing done again. Should have got the good meyle ones when I changed em Get your wheels balanced yesterday. Won't cost much and if you know the lad they might not even charge you at all. That shaking will be wearing your wheel bearings like mad. Be one or both front wheels. Think I told you before but when I put my montes wheels from the back to the front it magically started shaking super bad over 80mph. Could have been a fiver if anything at all to get sorted.

Had 2 cars ceramic coated following paint correction. Can't remember the brand used but it came with a 3 year lifespan under normal conditions. Not sure about your detailer needing to 'top up' every 8 weeks - are you sure it's a ceramic coat he's proposing? In any event I will have all future cars coated as it makes cleaning so easy and my days of spending a weekend doing the full monty on cleaning, prepping and coating a car are long over. With my ceramic coating, key is to abrade it as little as possible, so my routine is a simple hose down all over, then re-hose the panel that I'm going to work on followed by a wipe over with lambswool mitt using a weak shampoo mix. Hose off and move to next panel. Two bucket method used and frequent re-hosing to stop the water drying (we have rock hard water) and then when all washed it's drying time with the towels. No pressure washers - doesn't help the longevity of the ceramic coat, and besides if it's a decent coat then the dirt doesn't adhere bad enough to need it. All sounds a faff, but I can do the whole job in under a couple of hours. In fact the same amount of time is spent on the wheels as on the body - those damn fiddly Crater Alloys!

Exactly. Cheers mate. Have a good night.

Fairly inconvenient when your hands are full or the key is buried in a bag, its a very convenient feature. Battery life should easily last a year, if not longer. And regarding security, yes there is the trade off but generally Skoda's arent subject to the same level of keyless theft as Range rover's and Ford's