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D. Get a car with an engine suitable for your type of motoring.

It was raining as we drove to Rufford, but the sun came out just as we arrived 👍

not over a diesel and a car that looks like a shoe 😂

Divorce.

A simple voltage check will confirm if the battery is tired and also if the alternator is charging properly. Changing the fluid is a placebo measure since the power steering would still work with chip fat in it for a time. However I do agree that it's most likely to be a failing pump unit.

Have you run a vehicle check on this car? My Spidey-sense is tingling. Might be a waste of £20 or might be the best £20 you ever spent. https://www.carvertical.com/gb (You can get a 10% discount if you're interested. There are a few affiliate Youtubers with a 10% off link.)

The deed is done! After loving my Freelander (which never failed me, willingly towed a caravan and generally good all round hack) was getting a tad frustrayed with draining the bank account regularly to fill the tank for about 33mpg! AWMBO has had a 2.0 2017 Yeti for 3 years, only the 2wd, but great little motor and so frugal for what it is. So after a few weeks looking round found a 2016 4x4 190 horse Superb 3, the first drive home today was a real eye opener! Economy, comfort, and convieniece loaded! What a bus! So, hopefully get a towbar added in a couple of weeks and then evaluate as a towcar on summer hols! Already ordered spacesaver from fleabay, boot mat from Amazon so the hound cant coat it with mud & hair, and possibly get it detailed for long term protection. Anyhow, that's why I'm here, as for me an aging telephone engineer who is looking to escape the chains of the industry, love my motorcycles (Fazer 1000 for smiles, Honda Transalp 700 for just enjoying the ride, a BSA A10 golden Flash and Norton Commando to keep the spanner skills up!) and my very considerate and long suffering wife! A caravan, some countryside or beach, butty box and a flask and with the wife, and the mutt what more do you need! Looking forward to a plethera of valid (and insignificant1) data that will come my way - just love forums! Kettle's always on for like minded folk passing the threshold in Shropshire!

Waffling? No, recollection of what's gone before is the only way to justify how good the present is! The comfort and convieniece of this day is a benifit to all of us that are a tad ageing, but the simplicty and honesty of the past is somthing I treasure that I experienced! Would I still like and appreciate my first vehicles, '67 Beetle 1500, KDD594E or my Honda C50? To right I would! Would I like to give up the Superb that is now mine................don't think so! Very fortunate I am! **** Snow.

A few from last night........... Awesome to see (and hear) the Chinook - wokka wokka!!

Hmm, I've had a look and can't find them. I'll ask the dealer if they have part numbers as I'm dropping my car off tomorrow. Not as far as I'm aware - it's two thinner sheets of glass sandwiching a PVB membrane.

After 6000 km with my 1.0 TSI Octavia, no problems and everything works fine. Ordered in April 2021 and delivered in January 2022.

I had a V64V engine in my Sierra XR4x4, gods truth! It didn't make a noise like that, in fact it didn't make any noise. From memory it was destined for a Le Mans C2 car, I was asked to be the wheel man because the Sierra was a company car and my fuel was paid for, pretty sure the whole deal was very dodgy. I mentioned on another thread that I had worked on the design of the 6R4 but it resulted in the person who started the thread about his car getting antsy, it repiqued my interest and Google brought me the first reference I have ever seen to the work we did at IAD back then, posting it on this thread hopefully will be more appropriate, my memories of the reasons for the late and hurried redesign were correct: "From here radiated all the enthusiasm that was to make it happen. Gordon Sked’s styling people got us fixed up with IAD down in Worthing to make a proper styling buck. IAD created the information needed to produce all the fibre-glass and Kevlar panels. But even then there always seemed to be a new spanner dropping into the works. Not the least of these came when Pierre Dupasquier and Maurice Guaslard at Michelin, with whom we had been working closely since Day One, suggested that perhaps we could move up from 13-inch wheels to 390mm and thus benefit from all the work they had been doing for Peugeot What they meant was that we had to do it or be stuck on non-development rubber. It meant that engineer Wynne Mitchell could incorporate bigger brakes, but the original arch profile had to go as he and Richard Hurdwell lifted the suspension turret tops and lengthened the wheelbase by two inches. Looking back, it seems almost a miracle that, over the winter of 1984/85, everything came together. The V64V ran after just 11 months and delivered on its promises. The changes to the suspension and bodywork to accommodate the big Michelins were handed over to IAD, while the final form of the outrageous front and rear wings was agreed. The Longbridge line was geared for action and the Radford plant identified as the best location for engine and gearbox assembly. My task was to put together the final presentation to the ARG Board in the middle of January. Their approval would set everything in motion, and with help from Fred Coultas, the paperwork was done, the figures added up and the methods detailed. To my immense satisfaction, it was agreed: our target was the 1985 RAC Rally."

Well my first venture of over 120 miles (ie half my warm weather range, WLTP, of 240 miles that the Zoe Ze50 (52 kWh useable battery). So left home after brim charge, which is actually about 102 % charge, as it continue to charge past the 100% being shown for about another half hour or so on my little 3.6 kWh home charger and does not drop to 99% until about 10 miles are driven. Did the 120 miles from Worcester to Heathrow and still has 140 miles shown on the range which lined up with the 5 miles per kWh also shown on the instruments. Mostly with the ECO button depressed and therefore low 60s or high 50s shown on the speedo. Charged for 5.5 hours on the currently free chargers at my Heathrow office. Did get my ears burnt that lecky for businesses had gone up massively, might be as high as about 40p kWh I gather. Zoe was showing 92% full and 218 miles range and I set off to Gatwick where I am working tomorrow. Again ECO button down and with the 44 miles to Gatwick the SOC went down to 74% but the range is still showing 197 miles which works out as theoretical range of around 266 miles. I have the chance of a charge at the clients but not sure I need it. Direct journey back to Worcester is about 160 miles from here so should be able to do it in one hop without stopping to charge but it is suppose to be a bit cooler tomorrow and a strongish SW wind which is not a good combo. Wish the Gatwick Gridserve station was open but it is not due to open for a few more weeks yet. All going very well so far with over 6K miles on the clock and only about £100 spent on buying lecky power in that time. Not bad when hydro-carbon fuel is hitting £8 a gallon I gather. Very pleased with the little Zoe.

Just because someone has had no returns with MOT fails does not mean it's the right thing to do. Also, where have you been? DPFs have been compulsory in the UK since January 2011 and common place some years before that. It is simply bad advice to be saying "remove it".

I can not, because i am Scottish and tight & buying fuel costs enough without putting snake oil in the tank.

Hello to all, This post is for anyone who was wondering if the old method for turning off start-stop works on the Mk IV. TL;DR IT WORKS. I've owned a 2021 Octavia Mk IV for about a year now and it is my preference to start the car with the system disabled. I have owned other Skodas previously and was very satisfied to use an aftermarket memory module on the physical start-stop system switch where available. Other members who own a Mk IV will know that it is not possible to use this approach on our cars because there is no physical switch. The times that I forget to turn the system off before I start driving frustrate me intensely, because the system decides to cut the engine at the most inopportune time (in my opinion). It can only be disabled by using the touch screen. I try to avoid using the touchscreen when I'm already in traffic because I think it's pretty dangerous. I had been patiently waiting for better minds to work out the coding required to permanently disable the start-stop system, but today I had enough. I wanted to see if the old method of disconnecting the little black plug from the negative battery terminal worked. I had not been able to find any reports of people trying this method on the Mk IV so far, so I thought I might as well try it and post here with the result. After reading page 30 and page 65 of the Mk IV electrical system service manual, I disconnected the plug from the negative battery terminal and went for a drive. The plug on mine was orientated differently to the diagram but it was easy to tell that it was the same plug. It worked exactly as I expected it would. The start-stop system was disabled without any input from me. I went for a few more drives to see if the rest of the car's functions were affected by disconnecting the module. I can say that, as far as I can tell, none of the car's other functions seem to be affected. The message to inform you of the start-stop system error isn't even annoying on this car! You just get a momentary notification on the left side of the virtual cockpit the first time that you come to a stop during that power cycle of the ignition and then it goes away! It doesn't bother you again for the rest of the drive. It doesn't even play that annoying bong sound that every other error message or fault code plays. You will find the error message under vehicle information on the infotainment unit, but for that you'd have to use the touchscreen 😁 For me, this is a vast improvement over cutting the engine right when I don't want it to in the event that I've forgotten to use the touchscreen to disable it. Now, it's important to note that the service manual states that module J367 also controls the auxiliary heating, so if your car is fitted with that option then this method may not be for you. My car doesn't have that option and it's not available in my region, so I can't say for sure. It also states that an entry is made in the event memory for every time that the system produces an error. I don't care about this because since the last software update, my car throws fault codes for emergency assist and travel assist multiple times every second drive or so. It probably records so many errors it doesn't matter. Hopefully software version 1896 fixes some of those when I get it. It's a good thing I'm very tolerant of the software bugs, because I do really like the car otherwise. I hope that this post assists anyone who wanted to try this, but wasn't game to go in blind.

Since I got this car, the gearstick would never centre. So while I have access to change the gearbox mount, I said I'd strip down the shifter on the top of the gearbox for a clean and regrease. Cleaned up any pivot points with fine steel wool, then a thick coating of copper slip. Cleaned up a bit around that side of the engine bay. Back together, that part anyway. And it's made a big difference, the gearstick now does centre itself, haven't properly aligned the gear linkages yet but even still, feels much nicer now. Wish I took a before, but too late now. Heres the after. For a free fix, and a straightforward one at that I'm very happy with the outcome. If you're in that far, if you were adjusting the gear cables or what have you then I say its definitely worth going the extra step and cleaning and regreasing everything. Aside from that I have the passengers headlight out trying to fix a broken tab on it. Also still need to do the gearbox mount but it's all apart ready to do straight away next day, so won't take long.

Those are they! My new ones look as manky as those after only 2 years, I had to think hard to be sure I had in fact changed them and not dreamed it.

Thanks a lot chaps, I will check this and report back sounds like you maybe correct, and makes my post sound rather amateur 🤓

If you install Waze on your phone then by pressing the circular home button on your car screen you should be able to see Waze as another navigation option. After selection it will stay as the default until you change it back.

I don't have an Octavia any more (now have a Kodiaq) but I'm almost 100% certain they use three existing screws... Two on the sides and one underneath. You just undo the existing screws, offer up the flap and align the holes on it and the car an refit the screws. If you hold one up against the car in position it should be obvious.

Picked up my car this week.

I'm suffering emotional pain at the realisation that those whom I scorned are now holding the folding and have the last laugh!

A. Morally an issue but perfectly legal provided you make the buyer aware. B. Likely the situation for many apart from the clearing code bit. You shouldn't be getting codes like that unless there is an issue with the car. Or get you own code reader to clear it yourself. Would pay for itself in one use. C. No that's illegal. D. The option mentioned by @ords is kind of an extension of option A and is the way I went. Not the cheapest but definitely the least problematic.

Mine is now also 1896 - navigation is 21.7 (so perhaps more to come). I can also say that everything is now working as it should. 👍

@roottoot The car has been back to the dealership on four separate occasions following the original 'fix' to the 12 volt battery issue last October. The most recent of which was just six weeks ago.

If you cannot access VCDS its a relatively cheap thing to do as it is effectively a dry break coupling so you do not lose the refrigerant when swapping it out, access is usually tight though. They were a common failure point on earlier cars, water would gather on top and corrode the housing releasing the crimped seal, a small amount of refrigerant would leak and corrode the terminals. The modulating valve can be hot wired for test purposes, swapping that out loses all the system contents.

The easiest method is simply to have a killswitch for the fuel tank lift pump, it's under the back seat and easy to do, without the pump the car will not run.

already has cctv as you know this does not stop low lifes and keep disconnecting the batteries is not a really good method as its constantly deleting the settings doing that hence why I just want to isolate fuel pumps or ignition would be the other go to area.

Agreed. All these folk with a 1.5tsi and getting 50-55-60mpg etc. used to make me worry that my car was faulty. For my 1.5Tsi DSG I get around 38-40Mpg on a good run and very occasionally 42Mpg if I drive ultra carefully. On a short run (few miles) in hilly area it can be as low as 30Mpg. On a fast motorway run (80-85mph) for an hour or more it is around 35Mpg (not that I would do that of course - it would be illegal).

The 'usual' tools will be sufficient; jack, stands, spanners, socket set, pliers, torque wrench.. the most important is the correct timing tool kit to lock everything. You will also need a special socket for the crank from from memory. I personally wouldn't attempt it without the correct timing tools, if it isn't aligned correctly or the tensioner isn't right... it will get very costly! I have only done one 1.2TSI, the rough process was: Remove Covers Remove Aux Belt Remove Bottom Pulley Remove Aux Tensioner Move Alternator Remove Airbox/Pipes on RH side of engine (water pump side) Lock Crank/Cams Swap Components Reinstall The job isn't massively expensive at a garage, so if you need to purchase tools to complete the job it would be worth weighing up the costs. A garage will give you warranty and should something go wrong, they are equipped to deal with it. If you snap a bolt on the drive, the car is stuck there until you sort it. (I've seen this happen)

the mere fact that I don't have to unfold a physical map every 30min to figure out my next turn (when going on a long trip) is indeed progress now I just enter an address in my phone (doesn't even matter if its in another country), and phone will figure out the best route to get there (in most cases), I just connect the phone to my car and have the directions on cars screen - want to find a petrol station or restaurant ? no problem, 2 taps and I get a listing of all stations/restaurants that are open and don't require going off route It will even warn me of road closures or traffic jams and offer me alternative routes also I can use internet radio for spots with bad radio analogue signal can't get much easier than that Don't need navigation/internet radio? Ok, just use the cars built in infotainment system as you did years ago I don't understand how anyone can claim life was much simpler years ago..

Indeed, your unit is Columbus MIB1 with DAB/DAB+ receiver. Direct replacement, that works with your display unit as well as the new display unit you mentioned (5E0919605M), is Columbus MIB2 3V0035020x (or 3V0035021x if you want to add Premium Bluetooth and LTE modem functionality, x means any letter). Another possibility to use any of display units mentioned above is Amundsen 5Q0035874x (x = letter A, B, C) or 565035874. You can also install Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035020x / 565035021x but this will require display unit 5E0919606D which is expensive and hardluy available. If you are interested in any of mentioned above units in P&P version pls contact me on PM.

Yes, I agree. CC cannot see the road ahead and will keep powering on regardless of the fact that the car needs to slow down or use less fuel just up the road. Having said that you have to offset the cost of a slightly lower MPG against ankle ache caused by holding the accelerator in a set position for miles on end.

i just speak with my dealer and he said that my order from july 1 2021 did get date for production estimate at the middle of year 23 so hehe yey but he said also that i more likely that will be early than is now shown. i hope !

Numbers in the spreadsheet are increasing. Once again thanks to its creator. Also thank you to all those willing to share their dates and details it gives a reliable accurate source of what is really happening. I look forward to the time when we see people getting their long awaited cars. If you have a new Octavia Mk4 on order please consider sharing and then updating your situation to improve the collective picture we have. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit?usp=sharing

Retrofitting acoustic glazing is an option. Night and day difference between my Superb without and Kodiaq with.

Thanks for this really great info re fitting a new adapter and for your previous input; I've now fitted it and it went on fairly snugly with a nice Germanic click. I drove around to test both it and my new found coil pack and both appear fine.

That service reminder also monitors the quality of the oil by several means.

OMG!! 😱 Fab vid and an awesome car, but that's some commitment for the school run 🙄 I winced when he caught the corner of the bonnet on the drive 😓 Gaz

It's only the phone version that will stop. Wired versions (and wireless if available) will continue so you can rest easy.

Mine is the same engine and and DSG and that's what I would expect. I have to consciously work at it to get it up above 42 mpg. I have never reached 50. The only time I could get it to a regular high 40's was when there was a long stretch of the A14 past Cambridge with a 40mph limit. tom

Today (or rather, sometime last week, really) I managed to scratch the f**** out of my superb . Went to a car wash to just give it a pressure rinse (lots of Sahara dust in Portugal lately...) and, since it was sunny, I stupidly decided to use an old microfiber cloth I had in the car to just wipe off excess water (water is very hard and would leave stains). Well, the cloth must had been in poor condition since now, under direct sun, I can see the WHOLE car full of superficial scratches... So annoyed... I will have to give it a full body polish, but will try to do it by hand, as both exercise and punishment for my stupidity... On a separate note, following on the damages inflicted on all my 4 rims by some idiot at Norauto during a tire swap, I now must procure myself new rims while waiting for the court claim I made against them, since one of the rims is also bent... It started doing some "wooshing" noise at over 40 km/h after the second so-called "repair" (which was just slappin paint over paint over paint and looks total crap) and the dealership found a bent rim exactly where it seemed like the noise was coming from (rear left). How they managed this is beyond me, but on purpose comes to mind . Any rim brands to avoid? Any particular models you've seen and like in the superb? I'm not paying over 1300€ for original 16" Orion, not knowing the result of my court claim. Plus, I don't fancy them much anyway... Also, I want to keep my tires (almost new) and the comfort that comes with smaller rims/thicker tires, so 16" it is. Found a few that I like, but not sure they will look good in real life: MAK Wolf, MAK Emblema, CMS C22 (silver or anthracite?). Cheers

If I was at all religious I would say lane assist is proof that satan exists 😁

It's not too complicated but it is a big job. I did it on the driveway in a few hours. There are 6 main bolts securing the subframe to the shell which need to be undone, along with 2 securing the dogbone mount to the gearbox housing. It's also a good idea to unbolt the ARB from the subframe and drop links before attempting to drop the subframe. First crack open the 6 subframe bolts - you don't want to have everything else undone before you find out you can't get them open and it will probably need a breaker bar Unbolt the dogbone from the geabrox and the ARB from everything it's attached to, then completely remove 4 of the 6 subframe bolts At this point you'll want to put a jack under the subframe to support it while you remove the remaining 2 bolts Once they're out, gently lower the subframe on the jack until you can slide out the ARB from the passenger side You can then use the procedure above to separate the two parts of the clamp and replace the bushes Reassembly is the reverse of removal Dogbone bolts and the 6 subframe bolts are torque + angle specification Subframe bolts are 90 Nm + 180 * Dogbone bolts are 50 Nm + 90 * When all this is done you will need to get the alignment checked Incidentally, on my car neither the rattle nor the creak were solved by this job. The rattle turned out to be a brake pad with a bent mounting tab (can't figure out how that happened). At this point I have replaced ARB links & bushes, springs, dampers, strut top bearings on both sides and the creak is still there. I'm guessing it's probably a worn rubber bush in the control arm but the car is driving very well and I'm leaving it alone for now. My parts budget is going on my recently purchased Porsche 944 at the moment which is a far more needy patient.

Others have experienced this and had them replaced under warranty, but not without a fight.

Hi, im after a replacement DAB headunit form My 2010 Skoda Superb Combi Elegance. its currently got a Columbus unit.non DAB. im after a DAB head unit with Nav that will take postcodes also as the curent Nav version is worse than the missus and sshe doesnt know her left from her right. any one out there know where i can get a Skoda headunit not Ebay. or anyone on here supply and fit?

Thank you for the advice I took the cluster out and stripped it down, found several cracked solder joints. I've reflowed them and it seems to be all good. Now just to fix the other fun quirks it has (noisy starter motor, central locking that likes to lock itself at will etc )

Continuing from my audio project I decided to upgrade the boot to a showcar worthy install. First step, take all measurements from boot and put into 3D software to design false floor with window and calculate volume capacity from a wheel well enclosure Volume of box calculated at 41l so had to shop for a sub that would perform well in this volume capacity. Matching up an Amp with a new sub I had to decide how to mount the new Amp based on pre-existing wiring. I used 6mm MDF between carpet and wheel arch to mount and support the amp, feels very solid. Also can use the tether point to bring wires through and keep everything hidden. Next up was to relay the designs on to 6mm MDF for the floor and 18mm MDF for the enclosure Proceeding with the floor first. I used a router to cut out the window and retain the inset panel. Test it fits Cut window frame from second layer of 6mm MDF and cut window to see the sub through. Used router again and chamfer bit to create a more professional finish. I had also pre cut some lettering from 2mm ABS plastic. The SSUK is the watermark I use for my instagram images with user name @skodascalauk This was measured and printed on to card, cut out and glued onto the plastic which was then cut out using a small fine handsaw. Using contact adhesive I covered the lower layer with sub window in vinyl white leatherette fabric. Using a heat gun to gently warm the fabric over the lettering and give a finished embossed effect. The top floor was then trimmed in anthracite carpet to match the stock boot lining. Moving on to the sub enclosure I used a router with circular jig to create the top wall of the box, I believe this is called the stacking method. The other walls were then cut to size using my father-in-laws table saw. The rings were stacked using wood glue and nails, then walls were held up with clamps while the wood glue set. All walls assembled, phonocar tube port added and phonocar terminal. Top of box left to go on once the hole for the sub was cut out, again using the router. I nailed all the walls through the base and the top panels of the box to enforce the structure rather than simply relying on wood glue. Trimmed the top and bottom in black carpet, and cut a panel to run around the sides. Contact adhesive used with a wallpaper roller and plastic trim tools. With the box fully trimmed, time to wire it up. Using a twin core cable with 2.5mm pos and neg cables inside, nice and tidy. Fitted into wheel well and wiring up to the amp. The big reveal. @JohnnyType2would love to get your opinion as you were such a huge influence on the whole of this project. I know a lot of people will poop their pants at getting rid of the spare wheel for a sub enclosure, but this works for me. Nearly 90% of my journeys are under 6 miles these days. Should I run into a situation I will either call a friend or taxi to take me to pick up the spare from my garage. On longer journeys I will simply put the spare in the boot on the new boot floor or in one of the rear passenger footwells to ensure that I have it with me. But for the most part I now have a full boot space again for practicality of daily life plus a full custom install. Hope you all like it

Hey! Finally my upload meter did a reset and i can upload few new pics to this forum Follow my instagram: @vrsmk4 https://instagram.com/vrsmk4