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good news for me just got reg number and delivery date at dealers 22 july and should have it no later than 29 july depending how fast pdi etc can be done.

Pleasant evening........

My car is now within thedealer. 2,5 weeks since been produced. Tomorrow will go and check if it is really what I've ordered 😃

it is very confusing and the people who are to blame or should i say.it is lies at skoda tdoorstep.total lack of information and the crazy delivery system that is in place some guys getting there cars in a matter of months and lots of guys waiting well over one year.then you get the dealers who telling customer unreal delivery times just to get a sale done.i know some people say it is not them to blame but why are they telling us customers blatant lies imo.they work under the skoda banner so they are as much to blame then head office of skoda.

So guys, MySkoda app finally accepted my VIN. Wonder if that really means its finished? Been trying for a month, and now it happened!

Don't pay a low mileage premium price, and make sure it's been serviced on age, not mileage.

I think they stopped at least 35 years ago or so. I have a colleague with a '318i E30' and it was a 1.8 litre just like the '316'. The difference in the numbers signified the drop in power that the 316 (not injected) had when compared to the 318i. It sort of makes sense I suppose. They've been doing it with nearly all cars since ( I had the 3.0 litre M135, which gained a little more power and was reborn as the M140 etc). I think it's why Audi seem to have gone to just going ascending numbers to many of their cars when they want to denote more power or a larger engine. My 123D was a 2 litre (roughly 14 years ago), but as it produced 200+bhp it gained the bigger number to differentiate it from the 120D (it was also the first mass production diesel car that broke the 100bhp/ton )

I call BS on that. Actually i call BS on everything they say here in Slovenia. Any and every single thing people got from them as an explanation why their car is still not finished my car does not have. And i am still here 3 days away from 15 months of waiting.

Superb MK3 is still on the road and kids are still doing what they can I've run into the same trouble these days and fix it myself, thanks to all contributors here (the local dealer didn't prove very useful on the matter). As I've found particularly useful the pictures posted by moamer91 in this topic https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/460883-rear-air-vent-collapsed/ I want to contribute myself with the following couple of images: To remove the outlet grid part, as described by others, all you need is a plastic card. Insert it gently as shown on the picture, push a little in and move the card aside. The grid part will slightly pop out with a click and you can take the whole thing out. To detach the cable connector you need to push the metal bud on it, with a small screwdriver (as mentioned by MartiniB), towards the brown and blue/white cables and then help further with your fingers. It's a tight link. If there are parts fallen down in the vent pipe a vacuum cleaner may come handy. I hope this will help someone. Thank you all who posted here and in the aforementioned tread, who saved my day (and money). Wish you all the best!

Known problem on lots of cars, the wireless chargers are powerful, and inductive charging creates heat. Great idea for quick top up of battery, but not suitable for anything bit longer. I no longer use mine because I don’t like the hot phone, solved it with low tech solution of 2 packets of polo mints in tray, phone goes on top and gets plugged in.

...well after 2 years of looking and procrastinating our beloved 2015 1.4 L&k Yeti is gone. After much searching and many test drives we have now part exchanged for a pre-registered Kia Niro. In some ways not really a patch on the Yeti, but has some usefull features and I really wanted an auto box, (and a 7 year warranty helps ease the pain of transition!). Nothing I tried came close to the practicallity and "quality feel" of the Yeti which will be much missed, although concerns regarding the eventual possibility of a pan roof failure, and a few other problems that had started to become potentially costly concerns? The things I prefer on the Niro are the auto box, fuel economy, (first 50 mile journey from the dealer showed 65mpg on the computer), although the 1.4 returned 44mpg (actual) over the 4+ years we had it), and adaptive cruise control, 7 year warranty, no potential pan roof problems. The things in the Yeti's favour are practicality whike being relatively small, (seat removal), comfort, "quality", (feels very "soild" compared to more modern offerings), performance, loads of extras on the L&K although some not used, (auto parking....why????). If they still made them, (or something very similar) it would have been a no brainer to simply get another one, (auto). I even thought about trying to get one of the last 2017 SEL Drives, but they are now 5 years old and I didn't fancy spending that sort of money on a VAG car with no real warranty. I can say that to date, the Yeti has been the best car I have ever owned!! ...so goodbye to this forum and thanks to all for all the help over the last few years....and if you have a "good" Yeti, then I would strongly recommend keeping it as long as you can!!

A good video covering all the items fixed or new in Software version 3.0.0 Now we just have to find out how or when existing customers can get it!

Not sure I'd agree with tragic but I do get your point @roottoot. Most journeys would be on 'free' solar from our domestic array and for occasional longer trips I can live with the 40-45mpg that I know is achievable on the ICE. A neighbour's older 2L averages 38-42 mpg on no charge and a close friend managed 43-45mpg for three years with the 2.4L. I think we're as close to an optimum use-case as could be. Discounted them previously due to size (bigger than we really need) and cost, but the price of autos I'd trust that are still in warranty or eligible for a warranty worth having has closed the gap

Both is possible. Current is 0480.

Have you looked at KW coilovers?

Valve is readily available and easy to fit, the problem is you will lose the refrigerant charge and create your own personal hole in the ozone layer. If you have VCDS check the post evaporator temperature sensor and also the system pressure but use temperature tables and a thermometer, the pressure should rise to something like 10 bar (temperature dependant) then fall as both fans cut in, the post evaporator temp sensor should show at least 8°c less than the ambient air. If all this is happening then yes, it's likely to be a flap problem, you can also compare the commanded and actual values for the stepper motors in VCDS. Ignore anything it tells you about cmpressor loading, torque or N280 % actuation, its what it thinks should be happening rather than what is hence the above advice. The best and quickest way is with a manifold guage set, they cost less than €30 from Ali-Express or Ebay.

It certainly does on mine; it has the same effect as holding the lock button down on the keyfob, locking the doors then closing the windows. Also holding the rocker the other way unlocks the doors then opens all the windows! (This works regardless of the ignition switch position)

I recon that once that fancy outer case is off it's the same basic lock unit that has been used on most VAG models since 1994 and can be repaired using the same kits on eBay ??

Perhaps the thread title should be 'Inferior fans only working on highest setting' - but that would be unfair on the fans. There are four 'speed' settings - quiet, acceptable, noisy, very noisy - they're controlled by how much the front seat occupants can take of the noise.

Parking pawl or associated parts are obviously damaged or broken. Unfortunately this only happens if abused/poor technique, either by yourself or the previous owner. Was the vehicle purchased from a dealer? If you only bought it a week ago take it straight back for repair, should be some sort of warranty (3 months) even if a used purchase. If it was a private purchase then unfortunately you are going to have a bit of a repair bill coming your way. When parking on level ground it doesn’t matter a hoot if you select park first then handbrake or vise-versa. However on steep ground it makes a huge difference to do it in the correct order. Or if your impatient and slam the car into park before you have 100% come to a halt will have the same wear and tear result.

I have to agree with J.R. at this point, if youve already agreed and started the job you cant argue anything now. But that being said it all depends on what exactly they are doing. It depends if the ECU is fresh and requires coding and setting up, if this is the case id add another hours labour for that. The actual fitting of the unit takes 20 minutes or so id say, but accessing it depends whats in the way so physically fitting and removing id give 1.5 hours, bleeding the brakes another hour and an hour for coding so lets 3.5 hours or so but even armed with someone elses timings you cant walk in to a garage and say a man on the internet told me it would take 3.5 hours why have you quoted 5 hours

really?! i thought it automatically installed neons and a big spoiler. He had his foot down believe me

What difference would it make for someone to give you a figure now? The time to negotiate would have been before you instructed them to undertake the work . In addition to the labour there are their overhead costs, the time to package and send away the ABS unit etc.

Well, I've replaced all three now, 2 minute job, and under £2 for 4. No warnings now, so wait and see how long they last.

I am surprised you were able to get such accurate info on what’s missing, mine is parked and waiting for parts of unknown nature 😊 I would like to stay positive but as you said it yourself, there are plenty of IFs involved. My production / build week was also 20/22, until this week passed and status got changed to delayed…

Every remapped car looks totally standard unless someone maybe puts a APR badge on trying to show the stage of tune. The question with a race is does the other drive know they are supposed to be in one! Or are they taken like a King while just driving along.

I have a detailed thread on here entitled something like CCZA oil leak, intake leak or such like, with details of a similar looking oil leak and the cause was the intake PCV system at the turbo elbow higher up. I'll see if I can find the links and post. If you look at your photos I believe the oil is coming from higher up or at least there is a source higher up as well. But if there is no significant consumption, I wouldn't worry too much. Have you ever replaced the fine oil separator on top of engine? I prefer vw502.00 5w40 but each to their own. IN some markets VW / skoda actually mandated specific oils in the EA888 gen 2 which did not include LL5W30. I'm too scared to run engine flushes these days, mostly because I buy used cars, not new, like 5 years old, I don't know their exact history or exactly what was done. And I don't trust one oil flush every 6 or 7 years to not create more problems than what is resolves. Especially in terms of where the flushed particles end up being embedded or clogged elsewhere, these engines are very fussy with regards to cleanliness, but I am sure others will swear by them. I'd be more comfortable if I owned the car from new and did one every oil change... A

Symptoms: -very loud knocking at idle but also present at all rpms (frequency of noise correlated to RPM). -Motor does not seem to lose power -No warning on the dashboard Sound appeared suddenly when I was riding very smooth this morning. I ofent ride on mountain roads, pushing the revs, but I always respect the motor (heating/cooling times) Motor is converted to Ethanol since 02/2022 (ECU flash), I don't know if this could have an impact on the issue.

Our 280 is a March 2016 car and the KESSY keys are still on their original batteries, so now 6y4m have passed....

The owner of the sub-post office where I used to live in Southampton owned a De Lorean which he was gradually turning into a Back To The Future replica, it would often be parked outisde his sub-post office which always made it a good day!

The majority of the media only show celebs getting in & out of the EVs, they're too taken in by the hype to look behind the scenes and see the diesel generators. I suspect only programmes like Panorama could be interested in stories like this as yet another example of greenwashing.

i did yesterday get info that i have 36/22 date, just with minor problem hehehe i don't have confirmed production heheh 😕

Another call today... parts due 15th July... & I need to take the loan Scala back as they're 'upgrading' me.

Well, clearly the Park pawl isn't locking the transmission properly. Why this is is a question for an automatic transmission specialist, not a Skoda main stealer. Other than that, there's an issue of technique; why are you putting the transmission into Park before you apply the handbrake?

Luckily it worked fine and I managed to install the firmware on the unit again. Had a bit of a panick in the beginning because nothing happend, but further research pointed me to one forum topic where they said you should press 'eject', 'star or I button' and 'setup' all at once until the unit reboots into software installation mode. This worked.

It still might be the tyres as they are old and worn. Depending on the compound of the tyre and tread design can make them very noisy.

It seems that my tale differs from the norm here. Ordered an SE Estate in March of this year with a couple of extras and the dealer rang last week to inform that it's been built and is waiting to be shipped. Was originally given an ETA of 30 weeks (November) when ordered. They've said it should be ready to pick up at some point this month! I was honestly preparing for next year at the earliest when reading these forums so it's quite the surprise. Here's hoping this is a sign of things picking up for others who have been waiting a while.

Looks like a lot of cracks though. I wouldn't want to drive on those.

Oh my goodness me! Parked in a lay-by on my road this afternoon. One of only a handful I've ever seen in the wild 😎: Gaz

Most of the MQB platform..including your cars brakes have two pins on each caliper..& under the rubber bellows..one pin has a plastic/rubber bush on it..this makes the fit very tight..the other pin without the bush allows for "tolerance" due to various factors.....& thus the bush absorbs the grease if the wrong grease is used..& thus the pin sticks & then the caliper sticks!!....Wrote off a new set of pads/discs that way!!!...So yeah feck Ceretec type greases!! Also I don't use copper grease or Ceretec on the pad backs/pad ears......they all calcify & fail or wash out too easily.....I only use Loctite LB8009 heavy duty....high temp, graphite grease, won't wash out, won't calcify, safe on stainless steel etc... Loctite LB 8009 - Google Shopping

It was the battery, it wouldn't hold charge, replaced, probs have not returned! The original voltage first thing was12.3 volts, tells its own story! So, based on my experience , any warning lights on the dash, start by looking at the battery voltage/state of charge! Then move on to other causes.

I'm going back to a mark 7 Golf GTI. I had one before and loved it, as did my wife. Our toddler daughter no longer requires half of the contents of our house when travelling so the tardis boot is never full anymore! I will miss the ability to look at almost any object and say, "Yes. That will fit in the car!"

Those on my Whyte are Shimano and they are indeed worlds apart. I'll see how 'we' get on with the current set up (bike still hasn't had the green light from Mrs Gaz yet), but yes, I might well be heading you know where.... If I do, I might well ask a LBS to do it as the cable run goes through a few retaining tubes, which means, if a want it to look right (and I do), separating the hydraulic pipe so it can be passed through unhindered. Gaz

THink you need to move away from that garage, both the salesman and the fitter are mental:- My key fob is still working afater seven years.

No abnormal tyre wear here either.

I believe you can definitely exclude this abnormal tyre wear as being a characteristic of the car. I have recently changed my Summer front tyres at 23,000 miles (using winter tyres for half of this) and although very worn the wear was quite uniform across the tread. Maybe your Suspension set up is misaligned or the car has had a hefty bang at the wheels upsetting things?

Update.... It was the flexi hose causing the issue.... Once we took the hose assy off it we found it was partially blocked despite looking perfectly normal externally. Had to order the complete hose assy from a dealer but the clutch is now behaving perfectly. An expensive lesson! Thanks for the help from you all on here! Cheers!

Currently sitting on the opposite end of the room from my Hi-Fi. Which is now on and being used for the first time in ages. Recording a mix tape for my trip away tomorrow. Forgot how bassy Erase/Rewind by the Cardigans was... I'm feeling it through the bloody armchair.

Just a quick thing to check first - is your rear screenwash working? The pipe has a habit of coming off where it goes into the tailgate.

Measure again in September Gaz, changing too early is both financially and environmentally wasteful.