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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/08/22 in all areas

  1. So the waiting game has ended finally! Drove about 20km today and took it to public charger. More driving later when i get the winter wheels off the boot etc! First impressions are.. well, not sure if excited about the car or the color 😛
  2. Call from the dealer, collection confirmed for Monday and nothing missing due to the chip shortage! 😄
  3. 3 points
    I feared that- no-one really knows what's going on. I've been totally passive thus far. Just wondering whether it's even worth being more proactive. Probably not. I'm on the legendary list already 😀- (Hatchback 1.5 TSI)
  4. The 1.8tsi doesn't have a timing belt! Sounds like you've had a failure of the cam chain/tensioner in some way. Ignoring the tapping - is it running on 4 cylinders? Do you have breakdown insurance that'll recover the car home? If you have to pay for re-patriation and the pay for a new engine (likely) then you need to consider if it's worth it's worth the effort / expense.
  5. A few from yesterday...........
  6. Yep, it’s pretty well specced. Got to admit to looking forward to it! All for this little one!
  7. 2 points
    I've had an email today from Johnsons Skoda inviting me to their VIP event. I haven't even had the car I ordered over a year ago and they're trying to sell me another😂
  8. Possibly worth it if it can be proved that the replacement engine has had ALL the updated components fitted, and is in good condition - otherwise quite possibly a case of rinse & repeat.
  9. As said it does depend on what type of mileage the 5 or 10k-miles are, if they include lots of very short journeys then there will be relatively more wear on the engine and for the sake of a better word wear on the oil. With very short journeys the oil may not get up to a a good operating temperature or for long enough with the oil not flowing and protecting as well and perhaps not clearing any moisture fully. Have a look at the oil temperature on your gauge, on my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI (90) Fabia it shows a two line dashes until 50c, the book has normal range 80c-110c and not to push or strain the car outside of that range. What is important to oil changes is the thoroughness of the change and the quality of the oil to the vehicle's use and way it's driven. Quick cold oil changes will probably leave in the engine a greater amount of used oil and its containments as residue which means there will be less fresh new going in so the effects of the oil change are more diluted. A hot longer drain will probably get more existing engine oil and its containments out meaning less residue so more fresh new oil goes in. Modern oils of the correct type for the vehicles are fairly equal but some are more equal than others many engineers and mechanics will say to put in whatever you can get cheap and not to change too often. Personally the way I expect my car to perform and having had many experiences of component and systems failures and breakages I prefer the additional wider protection of a better oil and thorough oil changes. To really know when it's best to change the oil, and potentially engine condition, you'd analysis the oil, you can get kits or some garages may have and used them, serious stuff would be sent off to a lab but probably not necessary or cost effective for ordinary road cars. ETA: I've already changed the oil on my wife's 2015 Fabia gearbox oil and am about to change the oil in the rear axle of my car, the mere thought of either would give many engineers and mechanics the vapours. 🤣
  10. 2 points
    Mine was finished and ready for delivery on 17 July. It arrived in Romania on 26 July. Since then it appears un the system with the status in delivery to the dealer. And, the dealer cannot say when it will arrive.
  11. Simple advise is to deactivate it. Lane keeping assist is a pointless feature. The only thing people need to keep in lane is eyes to look and arms to steer. No manufacturer will be bothered as it is an assist feature. It does not take away the responsibility of the driver to actually drive the car and if a scenario occurs, such as high lighted by the op. Then deactivate it temporarily or deactivate it period. I have lane assist on my car and it is never activated as I find it too intrusive. Plus when people rely on tech to drive a car you do switch off behind the wheel and become less aware of surroundings. Some car safety features are more dangerous than safe if you ask me.
  12. Makes no difference it's a simple thermocouple it's not polarity critical
  13. Hello everyone! Some of you may remember me from a good few years in the Octy forums. I had a Petrol vRS Mk2 Estate from new 2010 to 2017 (80k miles), then a Mk3 of the same for two years. Loved them. I then moved to a Kia Stinger GTS 3.3 in summer 2019. Amazing car in many ways, but not perfect. Long PH thread here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1829074 This was replaced in September 2021 with a 2018 BMW 530e. Reasons explained in the above thread, but TLDR, I needed something less thirsty (27mpg) without a rattling sunroof, other niggles and a poor local dealer……. I have absolutely loved the 530e. The quality is amazing and I average (electric and ICE) about 63mpg. But, it is almost too competent and just a little dull. I find myself taking Mrs Dunc’s 1.4 TSI 150 DSG Golf out for some fun sometimes! And a bigger but, we have just picked up a black working cocker spaniel puppy and I need a hatch or estate ASAP. So, as per the title, I paid a deposit today on a 2018 (68) Superb 272 L&K. Every toy / option except sunroof (I think). Really excited. I feel like I should have bought one of these earlier……we’ll see! Looking forward to being back on here and contributing. You guys are comfortably the best forum crowd I have come across! Lots more to come. Need to sell the BMW before I collect the Superb. Cheers.
  14. I'm just a big man child really so sound generator makes me smile consistently
  15. I recently drove across the famous Viaduc de Millau (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Millau_Viaduct) in my 2020 Octavia (MkIII). It has the lane keeping assistant (LKA) which I keep enabled. It was badly confused by the shadows from this beautiful bridge's many and varying support cables, see pictures attached. The LKA sometimes tried to drag me to the right out of my current lane, and sometimes to the left. Do Skoda/ VAG care to know about these things? How could we advise them of these failures of safety systems? (I have told my dealership about the reliable false positives of the "collision imminent" warning system on the mountain road near my home; I'm uncertain whether they care/ whether they have a way to tell the brand/ whether the brand cares). I'm all in favor of enhanced safety systems in cars (since, as all of us know, everyone else on the road is a worse driver than we are 😁) .. but, the systems really do have to work "well enough". A LKA that actively tries to drag the car out of lane, pretty much ever, probably doesn't qualify as working "well enough". thanks,
  16. But hydrogen electric doesn’t have to come from the grid via the global market. Hence unwanted and not inflated by the grid price being related to gas. FWIW petrol seems to be getting more buyers due to higher upfront cost and a 10 year payback rate of an EV. If petrol is cheaper to buy and run… plus you save an hour a journey for long runs…most people won’t go EV.
  17. 1 point
    It’s a 1.5 tsi
  18. its got a sound generator under the black plastic cover between the wiper arms. You can do a search on how to disconnect it. Im crap at finding things and Internet in general as you can see from my reply above
  19. 1 point
    Well yes the warning light should come on at or just under minimum. I think what others are asking is have you had fluctuations in coolant level (between max/min) when you routinely check your engine fluid levels. If it is a failed head gasket then it could be pressurising your coolant system, rather than just losing coolant. Rather less severely it could be a leaking/cracked thermostat or thermostat gasket. I had that on a tdi once and it only leaked as the engine was warming up, once at normal temp it didn’t leak at all, so could take several journeys to bring the coolant down below minimum. Whatever it is good luck.
  20. For the first time I drove on e-power unil the engine started. The journey was 38 miles, 27 were on e-power and the overall mpg was 241. It was 29 degrees outside, so the aircon was set to 17 degrees. Because of regen the battery still had 5% at the end of the trip. I'm very impressed!
  21. Thanks guys I would have put a pic up but I don't pick the car up until Friday.....I'll let you know what happens....it did pass the MOT with no advisories so thats a start!
  22. I've always over serviced my diesel vehicles, especially if they are worked hard. Petrol cars I tend to stick to the service schedule unless it does a lot of short trips, then its worth shortening the oil/filter schedule a little. I'm lucky as I get good rates on the parts and do the work myself, otherwise it wouldn't be viable. My TDI VRS is roughly £25-30 for an oil & filter change, so I don't mind doing it every 6k if it needs it.
  23. You do make a compelling argument, a new revised Sportline would fit the bill. 👍😃
  24. 1 point
    And the waiting game has ended! Ordered 23.8.2021. Pictures on the other thread Infotaimen SW version 1889. Not the newest?
  25. If it works for you, why not? And if you really want not-leather seats, how about a Sportline? I'd agree that buying the same spec or the same colour would be boring / pointless / whatever, but switching to a 'sporty' one with the sports seats and in a different colour will make it feel like an all-new all-different car... but you'll still have the same large boot and auto 'box in a package that's no bigger than a Kodiaq 😉. (I went Edition > VRS and - even ignoring the engine - it's like having a completely different car, but with all the benefits I loved about the first one) Edit: oh, and going non-facelift > facelift also helped with feeling like it was a different car
  26. I had the same problem. After changing the batteries in the key fobs I started to store my keys in a Faraday pouch. The lights on the fob stopped flashing when in range of the car. hoping this going to prolong the battery life
  27. Scrap that, I re-soldered it together, heat shrunk around it, switched ignition on and boom, full use of windows and mirrors again. Just got to work out the remote locking fault now and then on to fitting a pas pump I "acquired"
  28. This should work:- Remove the lighting wiring from the bulbs Undo the bolts and remove the cluster Remove the relevant bulb Hold the cluster bulb side down and shake the insect out Refit is the reverse of removal.
  29. @nta16 The difference is when someone tells you there engine has been producing oil you do clearly smell the petrol and when you take out the dipstick you do not need the match held that near to the oil. When you have just oil and maybe oil and some contamination the match needs to be nearer. The issue was VW Engineering. They just never admitted an issue, or issues. So much more reliable without Long Life oil, still with Super Unleaded but better spark plugs than were OEM. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/421365-links-to-lucifers-ultimate-guide-to-14-tsi-twincharger-engines
  30. They're Lyra (1Z0601025P) wheels, centre cap 6U0601151L. Stickers are (I believe) 56mm and there's a set on fleabay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165307984322 If you don't mind waiting a bit longer there are many options on aliexpress for much less cost; this seller includes green & black stickers and replacement hub inserts if required: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004578485597.html
  31. When you see the crap engines on Scrapyard Dynasty going off abroad you might think WTF. See the Yard here, but no way do you want a 1.8 / 2.0 TSI Euro 5 engine from any of these. @ 8 minutes.
  32. The Codes were originally listed in the hidden maintenance menu (Acessed by a long press on Menu on the MMI screen in the Code Function (FEC,Swap) menu). There are two sections, Installed and Available codes. There were none in the installed section but approx 10 codes in the available section. Since the update these codes are missing. I don't appear to have lost any functions but I was wondering what they were for as I've been trying to get TSR working. All you hear is SWAP and FEC codes required. Ive been in touch with Skoda UK via chat got the following. Note Ive edited some of this to avoid confusion and deleted name of Skoda rep. Chris Mitchell 10:48 AM I recently purchased a 21 reg Octavia SEL estate model and was wondering if it is possible to Have Traffic Sign Recognition activated in the main dashboard. If it is possible can you please give me an indication of the price Concierge 10:48 AM Welcome. A customer service agent will be with you shortly. Concierge 10:48 AM You are now chatting with ------ 10:49 AM Hi Chris, you're through to ------ at ŠKODA UK. I will be assisting you today. 10:49 AM Chris, these features are installed at the Factory and can not be retro fitted. 10:50 AM I'm sorry to disappoint you. Chris Mitchell 10:50 AM Hi. I have read that it is possible to have traffic sign recognition activated by the use of a SWAP or FEC code. ------ Skoda UK 10:51 AM It might be possible at an Independent Retailer but no with ŠKODA. Chris Mitchell 10:52 AM I bought my car from local Skoda dealer. ------ Skoda UK 10:52 AM They are a Approved ŠKODA Retailer. Independent would be a normal garage type. Chris Mitchell 10:55 AM As you are aware the octavia is based on the MBQ EVO platform. these features were previously activated using VCDS and ODIS but due to the platform being locked down with SFD this in longer possible. I have been in touch with a couple of dealers and they say that the FEC and SWAP codes have to come from Skoda to activate certain features. (Little lie there. I got this info from Briskoda and OBDEleven forums) ------ Skoda UK 10:57 AM We are not technical based he and go by the information that is released from the Factory. If you would like to have this assessed, then I would recommend you visit your local ŠKODA Retailer and speak to the Parts Team or to the Retailer you have already spoken to. End of Chat Ive already been in touch with local Skoda dealer and I basically got the same response. It has to be installed at the factory. Has anyone any Idea if they have managed to get a SWAP or FEC code to retrofit any features on the platform. If you can get Travel Assist which includes TSR factory fitted for £275. you would think you could get it activated for a price. What is wrong with them. Don't mention the steering wheel I've already changed it.
  33. Which wheels do you have on the car? A piccy would help. Might also be helpful to have a look through this:
  34. Hey @roottoot Heh, you and I should sit down and have a beer/wine together. We obviously are of a mind 😅 *SIGH* I dunno, maybe there's a European, or per-State national automotive safety administration that wants to hear these things from us? (I live in Spain, for what it's worth). regards, -Jay
  35. Test it when you pick it up, my S trim doesn’t have them, but on my wife’s roomster the white monochrome lines appear as you get closer to the obstacle, I think they appear from maybe 50cm and beep solidly when you get to around 5-10cm I think. She has the swing radio not the bolero though. Make sure you test them and mention it to the dealer if they’re not working, if you had a picture that may help too
  36. Someone should came today with a Diagnose for Skoda, and i'l keep you updated what are the actualy errors, and what's happening.
  37. Hi Hastein, You can find the workshop manual for interior repairs here: https://cardiagn.com/skoda-superb-iii-general-body-repairs-interior/ This may help you on how to remove that piece. Discussion on treating water damaged electronics: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/350302/does-water-actually-damage-or-only-temporarily-disable-electronics-until-drying If there is mineral residue dried on the LED strip internals it may be very difficult to remove it if the strip is sealed. If anything it needs to be cleaned with something like pure water or isopropyl alcohol etc and left to fully dry.
  38. In one article I read the following sequence for longer gearbox life: 1. Stop and hold the brake 2. Switch to N 3. Use parking brake 4. Release the pedal 5. Switch to P
  39. The oil matters then and if it was not Long Life oil and i do not think the Service Code for your car was Long Life Servicing then the Oil needs changing annually or at or before 15,000 km. Brakes still benefit from servicing even if not making noises. PS You get Winter Grade petrol some months of the year in Sweden. But that is not a bad thing. The Government adds nothing to fuel, but have they changed what you can buy, is it E10 95 ron or is it E5 you get. So more Bio if E10, but then some engines love ethanol. In the UK that changed last September, and 95 ron is now E10 and Super Unleaded 97 or 99 ron is E5. This is what is sold in the UK when people by Super Unleaded , so E5.
  40. Thats a big assumption considering that no mention was made of the main dealer and "Factory reset" probably meant the OP or someone else pressed a confirm button in response to a prompt saying "Reset to Factory settings" usually followed by "Warning! all previous saved settings will be lost"
  41. 1 point
    Might consider vacuum before attempting to removing trims.
  42. Another small update - I need to find out how to get hosted photos on here! Ever since I bought the car a small thing that annoyed me was the rubber on the boot release had torn from use. I looked up how to change it and did some Googling, finding it on a Skoda supplier's website for an eye watering £131.54!! Needless to say I wasn't going to pay that, eBay to the rescue. £20 later and I had another boot release handle. 10 minutes of faff (getting the large black plastic panel back on was 8 minutes of the faff) and it worked perfectly 🤟 After finding out the rear toe adjustment was seized I figured I would sort it out. £26 for the genuine bolts and £65 for the Powerflex bushes I hope to have it sorted soon. Booked in with the alignment shop for a 2 weeks time. I have enquired on some of the Facebook groups about swapping seats from leather to the later black and red diamond patterned fabric seats. I've always thought fabric was comfier but leather more practical. Full leather seems rare so hopefully someone will be interested in a swap. DSG service next month, although after that my spending on the car will have to be limited due to expecting our first baby in October!
  43. Couple of pics. Beemer advertised for sale today on Pistonheads. Have been reading Superb threads on here whenever I’ve had a few mins today. I’m sure I’ll have loads of questions when the 272 arrives.
  44. Can't posts like this just be shut down. People come on here to ask genuine questions, but sometimes, as the saying goes on Lizard Lick Towing "You just can't educate stupid".
  45. Had it fixed today at Hawco. TBH I'm not unhappy with the outcome. I was expecting a quote of ~ £1400 going by posts on another thread, as the usual VAG solution appears to be replacing the entire selector assembly. Hawco charged £37 for the switch, £220 labour and waived the £140 diagnostics charge. Happily surprised.
  46. Spotted this earlier - Google image search reckons it's a Eurasian basket tail dragonfly (? the husk left behind after it hatched)
  47. Hi all, I got the bearing yesterday from the dealers and fitted it this evening. Its actually not too hard, the Drive2RU link given above is pretty accurate and was a nice reference when doing it. -You do need to absolutely destroy the old bearing to remove it. Jam a flat screwdriver in and twist until a load of plastic breaks off, repeat until it comes out. Just be aware there is a small rubber band you need to swap over You'll need to remove the gear knob which on mine was simply turning a little clip sideways. I cleaned much of the copperslip off and used silicon grease instead The plastic bearing slips over the top of the gearstick easily and clips in. And that's basically it. Took me an hour and fixed 99% of the side to side slop on mine. For the sake of €11 from the dealers, well worth doing, was a lot cheaper than a new shifter and honestly fairly easy to do. For reference, this shifter is similar to the one found in Mk6 on golfs, its NOT the same as a mk1 fabia which is like a Mk4 Golf shifter. If anyone in the future is having this sort of trouble, this worked for me. Hopefully these photos are of some help to someone. Thanks all for the advice.

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