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@CaptainDun I am guessing the forcing regens were to try and clear the DPF. It clearly was too full for it to work (but just about cleaned enough to work for short while) What I am unclear on, is if the DPF is full of ash, or has failed and broken up inside thus blocking the exhaust. What is the history of the car, have you had it from new, or did you buy it later (when and what mileage). What have your journey patterns been like, is it a town runabout, or used for long journeys (or if a mix try and describe them). This info might help people understand how it might have got the problems and what needs to be done. As @varooom has said might be worth a full clean, before go down replacement route. Might be worth making a Ceremex enquiry (note I have never used them so no idea if any good)

A few from yesterday's visit to both RHS Wisley and Claremont Landscape Gardens..........

Fault found, plastic lugs which secure 10 pin socket to switch block broken off. S/H replacement ordered z thanks to all.

6 yrs old and not used much possibly it is suffering an existential crisis but... if the warranty claims to cover the battery and its still under said warranty then id be having another slightly less polite conversation about it .

Quite low mileage for four years old. Gaz

Hi guys! Picked up my vRS last friday. 15 months of wait totally worth it!

New Octavia brochure has been issued I might be imagining things, but the range and the options list seem to have shrunk prices now £23,650 - £38,285 (before adding options) https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/0bcfc2d5-654f-49b2-a524-91e141293e36

Steering rack bush is a nice cheap mod that gives a bit more steering feel. I have the one superpro makes in 2 of mine and I felt it made a difference. Pretty cheap iirc, think I payed just over £20. Dogbone bush is a good one too, few options there depending on what you're looking for. Again pretty cheap, would run you £40-£50 for a powerflex one.

@grumpy1Do you have a Mk2 or a Mk1 Fabia? Traction Control / ASR does not stop you using the brake pedal to bed in brake pads, why would you need to switch it Off if you have it.

A 2007 would have a CECM. As I mentioned earlier in this thread:

I would do exactly as you have done and would dispense with the unnecessary crippling achilles heel system at the very first sign of the slightest problem, I would not have been as patient as you disregarding the time and money spent. I'm sure for someone who really values the system, perhaps with a handicap, then resolving the issue would be worth the grief and money spent, not for me, its just another reason to add to the ever growing list of reasons for me not to buy a newer vehicle.

I'm not a fast driver by any means (1.0L wouldn't allow it anyway) but the bodyroll of my focus is annoying. Especially when driving my family around.

Not true. Drives to give comfort like a Taxi / Airport Transport, after all that is what many are for. Perfect for getting around UK roads with corners as they have a 60 mph speed limit anyway. Perfect over speed bumps ect. If you want a crashy model then do not go for a L&K. Actually if you want a sporty handling car maybe forget an Octavia. PS. I hope you are going to try some before buying, and a proper long road test of the one you finally chose.

Sounds like the right choice, my brother's just spent about £1800 on an Audi gearbox repair. You certainly wouldn't want that straight away and even if it had a warranty, I'd be nervous of them covering it. They always try to wiggle out of it. And I'd gamble on the gearbox worn rather than alignment, smashing 3rd to 4th is fun and it's probably been done a lot in that type of car!

Shouldn't have to use the shifter all the time - might as well have bought a manual.

I’ve used a set of 17” wheels with 215x65 winter tyres on my previous Kodiaq and will be fitting to my new Kodiaq in a few weeks.

It's already been alot of fun driving it ,.by the way regarding having a dpf or not it's a bkd engine

I had the same problem a few years ago. This was the solution. I have just had the same problem on my 1.4 Greenline 08 plate. I took it to the local garage that I use for servicing and they suggested it was the gearchange cables that needed replacing. I decided to investigate on the internet myself and came across a number of videos on YouTube that suggested it was the gearchange relay shaft that was seizing up. This affects the left to right movement across the gate. I asked my son in law mechanic if he would take a look and this is what we found. 1. Disconnect battery. 2. Remove battery. 3. Remove air cleaner box to help with access. 4. Remove battery tray held on by 3 screws. This gives access to the gearchange linkages on top of the gearbox. 5. Disconnect the gearshift cable connectors which connect to the gearshift relay. On mine they just pushed on to the shaft although on some models there is a circlip holding it on. Do not move the springs on the end of the gear cables otherwise you will have to calibrate your gearchange afterwards. Try moving the gearchange from inside the car. If the cables are to blame it will feel stiff. Mine were free to move. 6. You should then be able to try and move the gearchange relay. It will be very stiff due to corrosion or dryness on the shaft. On some the shaft is metal and goes through plastic bushes at each end, and locked on the end by a circlip. I think mine has the updated one as there was no circlip on the end, just an expanding compression end which opens when it is in place. Rock the relay back and forth whilst compressing the end of the shaft with fine nosed pliers. The whole shaft is plastic and needs great care when forcing it out with a prybar but plenty of wd40 and gentle rocking back and forth will ease it out. Once out I could see that the plastic shaft was bone dry. 7. If you have any Emery tape just clean out the tunnel that the pivot goes through. 8. Lubricate the shaft of the relay with high melting point lithium grease. And push the relay back on. It should pop back in easily and move freely. 9. Pop the gearchange linkages back on. Test the gearchange from inside the car. It should be so much easier. 10. Put it all back together...simples. This video shows what it looks like. It took us about 90 minutes in total and could easily be done by a non mechanic (me). This problem started after being parked for 2 weeks at the airport whilst on holiday. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/460703-gearstick-stuck-not-moving-left-or-right/?do=findComment&comment=5170825

You’ve cracked it Pete; item 52 would attach to both screw holes and place the gas strut slap bang in the middle. Good website that. Any more bright ideas from anyone before I give up on powered struts forever?

You need to log boost while doing a full pull, requested and actual, you're not getting enough AIR to go with all that fuel you're wasting which rules out the injectors somewhat.

GDPR only applies to identifiable personal data. It doesn't apply to a dashcam unless the driver has to enter their name and/or address into the camera before making a journey.

great work and well done on the win Croatia looks lovely by the way

I signed up for the 9.99 contract when I went to France in June and the only other time I've really used my powerpass card was when I went again in August. The money I've saved on those two trips compared to the full price ionity (let alone petrol) have more than made up for the cost of a year.

@roottoot Cheers, It's had Service Campaign 34H5 previously carried out, Skoda confirmed this in response to an Email I sent them

Hi Mr Toot, yes I tried Sport mode (mostly left it in Sport as its kicks down more readily TBH) and this is better, but pulling away it was still regularly an 'experience' as the delay in actually moving is still there. In Sport though, once the car has decided to move beyond a crawl, it would bolt off very rapidly requiring me to either have to rapidly let the accelerator loose or have to brake. So not an entirely comfortable solution on single track road junctions. In Sport it still can't decide what gear to be in but does sort it self out more quickly. Entering a downhill bend and braking rarely caused the gear box to change down a gear so you have power just before the apex to accelerate out of the bend. Again it does kick down more readily than when in Drive but still mostly after the apex and after I've pushed the accelerator... so still quite a delayed reaction. In Sport of course it holds the rev longer so we end up with the engine at high revs for quite a while until it realises I am no longer accelerating.

I'm 6'3" and have no issues with the seat height on my 2019 Sportline - I don't even think I have it in the lowest position. I am more leg then torso, so that may be where the difference is.

Yes.

Just checked, there are two options in the Climate page 'Settings' one for heated steering wheel (purely on or off toggle) and one for Seat Heating where you select the setting (one f the three seat heating options). They both come under 'automatically start at low temp' or something like that. It doesn't say temp they come on, but as highlighted above 14 seems around right when mine automatically comes on.

You don't, unless the water pump is driven by the cam belt/chain, when locking the timing will be essential.

Aahhh... but the springs are the other way round!

Yes - local mechanic had it on ramps and couldnt find anything at all. I bounced the car for him off the ramps and demonstrated the knock which can be felt through the top of the shocks. He THINKS it's the shocks. There's been a huge delay with top mounts (Skoda) then shocks (TPS). Both arrived about 3 weeks ago but the mechanic back log is enormous. Both are being changed on Monday. We'll see what happens.

It's a bug bear for sure, to pull the passenger side forward would mean hacking off that bumper mount as well so I'm leaning towards leaving it where it is having looked at it in depth. Good news is the 30 degree bend boost pipes fit nice and easy, that removes at least that struggle. I dug the front bumper out of storage last night, found the fixings for the external air temp sensor and the air temp sensor so i'll be cleaning that up next and trial fitting that.

I taped mine up in May 2022 and it is still intact, the summer heat does not appear to have affected it, and it is parked outside, never under cover. I used bike frame protection tape from Amazon. It is probably the same stuff that Skoda use on the rear passenger doors to protect from stone chips. I didn't use helicopter tape as I had no need to paint it. Chris

What I meant to also say was, they are a bloody rare car! As an example, there have been 2,660 Bentley Bentayga V8s🤮 registered during the same time the 280/272 have been available.

Link here.

I am saying they are still very cheap to run as long as you can charge on EV tariff, nothing has changed from 2017 when I got Leaf to now. On more upfront costs, looking at used EV prices, I don't think owning an EV will be a costly experience thanks to high residual values and ever higher demand for used EV's. Same as Leaf, I'm pretty confident my Model Y will effectively be riding the wave front of limited used supply curve for a highly reputable car. Just look at prices for cheapest used Model 3. Here's a good example, my Nissan Leaf was just under £9000 from main dealer back in 2017. Now asking price is higher for a slightly older car at an indie dealer: https://www.speakev.com/threads/for...-acenta-24kwh-3-3kw-charger-57k-miles.172501/ Another case in point: I sold my Skoda Octavia diesel for £5200 to a dealer, advertised privately and all the questions were "is it ULEZ compliant?" zero interest after that. I am confident I can sell my Nissan Leaf for well over £8k to a dealer. In fact, motorway are offering £8,739 for the Leaf while £5000 for Octy. Both were bought in 2017 for similar price. Granted, current used market is crazy, but I wouldn't expect such a huge difference between cars that used to worth so similar. So I can only put it down to changing public perception that created ever increasing demand. When demand for cheap used EV out strip a very limited supply......

After I bought my 2016 SE L Drive privately in 2020, I had a discussion with the DP in my local Škoda dealership about its spec. He wasn't too miffed that I hadn't bought one from them as we'd just purchased a new Karoq from them a few months previously and I've know him for years. As well as the usual SE L drive accoutrements, mine has a factory fit reversing camera and the rare electrically adjustable driver's seat. He said that by the time my car was built, almost all Yetis were being built to order. Therefore late cars were usually specced with a number of options.

What size discs have you got? The Kodiaq has three different sizes of front brake discs: 312x25mm, 314x30mm, 340x30mm. The front brake systems on the Kodiaq are all TRW brake systems. Jurid on autodoc suggests that the Kodiaq 2.0TDI 150HP 4x4 has 314x30mm front brake discs. You can check by measuring the outside diameter of the front brake discs, or if you have build code 1LW that would show that you have 314x30mm front brake discs. TRW GDB2114 front brake pads (for Kodiaq 314x30mm front brake discs) £45.14 https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRW-GDB2114Â-Brake-Pad-disc-brake/dp/B06XYN4994/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YKZWU3H5E8H1&keywords=trw+gdb2114&qid=1664803916&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjA4IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=trw+gdb2114%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-1 ATE brake discs are coated, whereas TRW brake discs are painted. Coated brake discs should give better protection from rust. ATE 24.0130-0220.1 314x30mm front brake discs https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ate/7005983 Kodiaq parts catalogue https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/KOD/804/6/615/615010

The factory 'trailer coupling' wiring is as shown here: The various connections to the trailer light socket just tee off the feeds to the existing rear bulbs. 13-pin socket wiring is shown, 7-pin is obviously simpler and probably what most people will do on a car of this age. The function of the bypass modules that gives you a beeping in time with the direction indicators being used is actually built in to the Fabia electronics as a visual display of trailer-board indicator action, you just have to enable it by adding 1 to the coding of the onboard supply control unit, using VCDS. This is what it looks like (on my Polo) once you do this (and have a non-LED lighting board connected): 20220930_090155.mp4

Well it was very simple, just released the back cover like in the video, i passed the cable through the side of the headrest hole then with my arm all way up through the back of the cover i was able to pull it down.

I pretty sure vehicle manufacturers are allowed to fit speedos that show a speed in excess of actual, up to 10% I think. A satnav GPS is the accurate one.

Second time on Island Rab BEST ENGINE BAY on 5th TUNING CREW RAB SHOW. Honestly she was by far most completelly tuned car in every segment and quality of work done so far away from the rest, most of them are only for watching from distance of 5 and more meters😉😉 video-51b953727b3b2e1e2cdab1f644a0b24b-V.mp4

A few from Coughton Court and Baddesley Clinton earlier today.......

Can't quite see why you're not just using Mk1 Octavia VRS fronts that would grab the disc properly and make use of the extra size? Id be concerned about warping the disc by getting the edge hot but not closer to the hub.

Biggest bang for your buck is a simple remap, nothing else required. If you're determined to wreck the clutch and flywheel then fit a PD150 turbo, FMIC and a remap. Seriously, these need very little to go a lot faster but do the brakes and suspension first.

Hi all, I have recently gotten the new 2022 superb style with premium package but due to semi conductor/microchip issues, the led headlight matrix (or whatever it is) and 12 speaker canton system have been taken out. My question is: Is it possible to put in an aftermarket sub, amp and other speakers and run them from the existing head unit or does the lack of microchip mean running a complex audio system is just not possible at all? cheers

Hi all, Thanks for the info. I’m mainly after clarification about whether the head unit is lacking something (ie a microchip) that means i won’t be able to build a comprehensive system (professionally installed) run By the existing head unit? when I bought the car, the dealer advised it was ‘semiconductor’ optimized, which juts means it has left stuff out that previous models had. One of the the things left was the comprehensive 12 speaker Stereo (stripped back to 6 with no amp or sub).

@TheWanderer, why not walk away now that you've had your say?