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She’s home 😊🥳 More to follow once we get to know each other 😉

Mrs says, just pay it not worth the hassle. And what I hear when a big company says something like that....... It's always fun to hear the little pause after you say "I've been waiting for an excuse to try the small claims court process, what's the address for your legal team?"

I use Speedtest by Ookla.

Feels very nice, drives smoothly, it’s just infotainment that will take some getting used to, my mother-in-law’s Mazda was a no brainer and switched to my Apple music playlist where I left it while listening on a previous ride or at home, while Skoda goes to the alphabetic order and always starts with the same song. But the rest seems 👌. Dsg is smooth, and she looks so much better without the gearbox. I also have the Skoda sign on the floor, I guess they added this now. I sure hope they stick to the plan finally, so you get yours soon as well, fingers crossed 🤞

Got VIN and replied - unit is basic Bolero with DAB and MirrorLink support, without Android Auto, CarPlay and reverse camera support, model number 5Q0 035 820. SW download link has been delivered.

I have access to CNC mill. I make most parts by myself. These are drawn on Solid works and I machined them on our CNC. I can make part's and develop them or redesign them. I worked with exotic materials like titanium also. These brakets work with 16" rims and 312mm Rotors. Not so easy to fit.

As above, but get a wired baseline result first. Then you can walk around checking the WiFi, which will have range issues.

The check happens when the brake pedal is pressed, which explains why TKW method works. When you release the accelerator the throttle position falls to 0 and let’s the ECU pass the check, when you accelerate again the check isn’t ran as long as the brake pedal is still down.

Ended up getting Yokohama Geolanders for the Jimny, chonkiest tyres I could get quickly. I have to say I am surprisngly entertained by the Jimny. It should be awful really, it's a bouncy, noisy lack pretty much all extras. The gearbox whines, the radio is terrible etc etc. I think it's so diferent it makes it quite fun. It actually got a few complements from the gamekeepers. It would be truely painful to drive any great distance in (on the ears mostly the seats are quite comfortable) but for short hops I quite like it.

The battery is probably goosed, it'll be nearly 10yr old. But Mini say it's covered, no * or caveats. Looks like false advertising to me. If the battery is just old then it will be covered but the local dealership says that if it shows any evidence (in the event log of the mini one assumes) that the battery was allowed to fully discharge it won't be covered. Doesn't matter if that happened before it was sold.e Actuall had this same crap with BMW before with diamond cut alloys. approved used but since the alloys had been refurbished they woudn't cover them

The small square ones fit in the space on top of the 12v socket nicely. Get your low profile USB-A to USB-C cables on AliExpress and use some velcro tape etc to affix it. The cover slides closed on top of the unit.

I used to own an Audi RS4 which has a suspension setup optimised for handling so very little body roll, my L&K is I think a better compromise as it's much more comfortable over speed bumps and the body roll is minimal - certainly the small bolsters on the front seats are more than sufficient. I'm not aware of the L&K suspension setup being different to non-vRS trims. Sounds like you need to drive an Octavia to compare against your Focus - time to blag a test drive from a local dealer?

I ended up buying a new one from that UK store. The guy from the german ebay didn't want to ship it here. Thanks all!

Hi guys! Picked up my vRS last friday. 15 months of wait totally worth it!

Then you want to stick with standard discs then, all of the others will have some degree of increased dust and possibly noise, none of them have a greater coefficient of friction than a plain standard disc.

Could we meet midway? (How do I request Mods to forward you my contact email)?

Good shout that, posted this video a hundred times but it's of a shock from my mk1 fabia that was good and a shock from my mk2 fabia that was dead but had no misting or leaks same as you. Shock of the mk2 was in and around 104k miles iirc, original from 2012. An outing to the Sally Gap is what finished them off.

Thx for the reply. Yeah, they are pretty much the same.. mine has the manual ac though.... bought 2 of those anti condensation thingies yesterday, today there was no moist, maybe the interior is just filled with moist from the weather, and then when raining, the blower cant keep up...... but i will investigate further anyway.... well update, or not, took the wiper assembly off, took all the rustpreserver of(sticky stuff) flushed water with hose on windscreen, no way near the air inlet.... time will tell if it gets worse this vinter, or else when i find the time, i will take apart footwell trim inside of the car and see if there are any signs of water there.... but the anti condens bag helps so far

I had the rough road package for many years on the Megane 2 (still using it since 2008) and really had nothing to complain about. It was raising the car by about 20mm; some users mentioned the car is not as stable on speedy corners as the standard suspension, but it's a choice one makes depending on the way the car will be exploited. I was so happy with the rough road package, that I ordered it on the newly arrived Octavia; it's not a PHEV, but I thought you might use any opinion. For my taste it is great; I drove the car for only 250 km this weekend, but it was mainly on express roads, so I was able to push it a little around some curves - no problems at all and no boat-like behavior on slightly wavy roads. I'm really happy with the extra ground-clearance (they told me it's close to 25 mm extra) since I sometimes get outside the asphalt on bumpy roads while wondering around on vacations. L.E. sorry, I forgot to mention: the rough road package involves not only different springs, but also different dampers. However, not sure those are stiffer or not than the standard ones.

If it's the same as a Mk4 Golf, just open the door and start the car, the immob should cancel the alarm.

Generally 5GHz is faster, but 2.4 is more tolerant of range and obstacles. I often put basic devices on 2.4 and save the 5 for better ones. You can get Wifi meter apps which are good for having a walk round the house with and finding good and bad spots.

If all 4 are the same there shouldn't be too much of an issue. Though load rating number should be 83 minimum and speed rating should be a W. Possibly an extra 5mm a side gives a better chance of keeping the alloys un-kerbed.

Taurus, 19´´. These are not avaiable in configurator for vRS, only for Sportline. Bought them extra.

That worked. Thank so much that has fixed it and saved me money.

Another thing to bear in mind if that any 5gHz connections will inherently be a lot faster than 2.4gHz ones. It might not be an option with the Ring though? In saying that, I can only make my full online speed via a wired connection.

Let me know your VIN on PM, I will check model number and share with you download link

I reckon they might cave in quite quickly. 🤞

It is a Crazy thing for MINI / MINI - BMW UK to have in the Adverts on Approved Used cars regarding the Warranty.. But they passed that, they really need to own the statement.

I've never changed hoses on a car for braided, but on my motorbikes, it makes a big difference. Might actually do it on the car this time!

Pretty standard from main dealer in my experience. Especially with software issues. All they know is changing mechanical parts at customer's expense. At very least you got screenwash fluid topped up and new cabin filter? 😅 Pretty much the only reason to take EV for service..... oh and the sandpaper wash.

My 6’5” son has no problem driving our 280 either; seat all the way back and all the way down, but he does raise the front squab.

More pic's

Also another tall one here, is the rear of the seat at its lowest, ie on max sloping backwards. I do find the mirror us in my sightlins at junctions, but nothing new.

Did that issue affect whether or not the car was eligible for the extended warranty ?

Has the new actuator been adapted in software?

@CaptainDun I am guessing the forcing regens were to try and clear the DPF. It clearly was too full for it to work (but just about cleaned enough to work for short while) What I am unclear on, is if the DPF is full of ash, or has failed and broken up inside thus blocking the exhaust. What is the history of the car, have you had it from new, or did you buy it later (when and what mileage). What have your journey patterns been like, is it a town runabout, or used for long journeys (or if a mix try and describe them). This info might help people understand how it might have got the problems and what needs to be done. As @varooom has said might be worth a full clean, before go down replacement route. Might be worth making a Ceremex enquiry (note I have never used them so no idea if any good)

First thing i would be doing is finding out EXACTLY what they have done for diagnosis, speak to the tech, write it all down, post it on here. A copy of the faults that relate to this issue and how exactly they came to the conclusion that there is a fault like this.... 50k miles and 3 years is no where near the time for a dpf to be full of ash (not soot), so what kind of failure do they suspect from the dpf, is it a collapsed honeycomb or are they just guessing....

Way too early, but could indicate a fault elsewhere (unless car was clocked) For £3k, I would take it off for cleaning. Well you don't always have to remove to clean it.

Thanks for replies. It has suddenly started working again. Must have been a glitch. I use Waze or Google Maps when the traffic is really bad. But the Skoda maps have been reasonably good for general use and often sensibly reroute when traffic conditions dictate.

I removed my L&K badges on the wings along with all the boot badges as well. For me, it’s a much cleaner look and no hassle cleaning around or catching the badges when washing.

T'is but a scratch... just a mere flesh wound...

I agree with J.R. For this job a torque wrench isn't essential, especially as seen as all the screws/bolts will be into or bearing against plastic housings, so high torque figures would just end up damaging the plastic. I would start by testing, and/or mabey replacing the thermostat numbered 15 because I'm pretty sure that this is the one that controls the flow of coolent to the radiator. It's a very easy job to do, half drain the coolant, move some hoses and pipes to gain access, undo a few trx-star screws, and you've gained access to the thermostat.

Here's my quartz grey 1.5 dsg in L spec. Had her since January this year, almost swapped out for a Kia Niro due to rising petrol costs and my rather heavy right foot, but stuck with the Karoq, prefer the higher driving position and all the kit of the L trim.

Well it was very simple, just released the back cover like in the video, i passed the cable through the side of the headrest hole then with my arm all way up through the back of the cover i was able to pull it down.

Belt Tensioner Pulley, How to replace. Isn't the same with your engine?

Harder to sell aswell when you want to down the track. Only certain buyers will want this colour

So I still don't have my car back 🥲 Apparently the repair bill is up around £10K I don't know how, but I've ended up with an M340i as a courtesy car, not complaining at all about that lol

So the sound seems to be gone, even though I didn't find anything when I poked around. I did poke around between the screen and dash with a trim removal tool where the sound seemed to be, maybe I pushed whatever it was and lodged it in place? Will find out for sure if the screen is ever replaced. Fingers crossed it doesn't return!

wee beastie